Category Archives: news

Sicario sanguinario (8c) climbed by Luca Bacer

Photo @ "Secret" crag of Baratro above Trieste Not many climbing news from Istria in the last days, but still some hats down routes were climbed here. Luca Bacer did the Sicario sanguinario (8c), a 30-meter long endurance route in the centre of the “cave” in Baratro. Also, Katarina Rus was there and she fired the last years masterpiece of Ciano, Zooropa for which she believes it deserves a plus more, so 8a+. Many other climbers reported it as super hard, as well. Time will tell! It’s more important that it is super nice and people love to climb it. :) Another climbing lady, Saša Vidmar used the last spring conditions in Mišja peč and redpointed the slabby, crimpy, techy, polished and so on, Oktoberfest (8a). The big cave of Osp gets the most crowd in these days, young Andrea Pustetto from Trieste redpointed Helihopter v omaki (8b) and for sure much more will happen there soon. Just...
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The summer is magic in Osp

The summer is magic here in Osp, hot temperatures arrived, the cherries are growing full on and only the »summer« crags are visited more or less in the last days. The cave of Osp is for sure the top destination nowadays, followed by Buzetski kanjon (summer sector named Befana), Baratro, Skedenj, Brseč and so on. And what was climbed in these days? Boštjan Weingerl and Jaka Šprah both fired in just couple of tries the 3D monster pitch (55 meters long) Active discharge (8b+) in the big cave of Osp. The young and strong Italian Dolomites based Enrico Cassol just failed on his onsight attempt under the chain of Helihopter v omaki (8b) and later did it easily on his second go. Also, in the big cave of Osp, Matej Sova redpointed Benjamin Marjanovič’s “new” route Leon (8b) and in Buzetski kanjon he did the steep Inglorious bastards (8b+) in...
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Water world (9a) by Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder in Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp @ photo from his FB Two days ago, Jernej Kruder redpointed Water world (9a), the 55 meters long monster roof pitch, in the big cave of Osp. This is the 4th ascent of the route after Klemen Bečans FA and repeats by Domen Škofic and Sachi Amma. He found the new beta for the first crux and on the end this endurance route felt soft for a worldclass boulderer. Besides that, he did Leon (8b) on the same day, as well! Bravo Jernej, we are wishing you a lot of luck on the upcoming competitions. A muerte! Also in the big cave of Osp, Jaka Šprah flashed super steep Troja (8a) and in Kompanj Hungarian Tamas Farkas climbed short, sharp and crimpy Nusskancker (8b). More to come!...
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Winter trainings paid off

Hard winter trainings paid off on warm cliffs of Istria. Brother and sister, Klemen and Katarina Kejžar executed once again in Val Rosandra, in sector Strapiombi delle Vergini. Klemen did a FA of a project named L'amuleto bolted by Ciano that shares the same start with Adelante (8a) and then goes straight up and had a proposed grade of 8b. His sister Katarina did her first 8b after a new-born child, the other one from the same sector also Ciano's masterpiece called Anuk. Well done Kejžars! 😊 Of course, also the other crags in Istria were busy on these nice spring days. Gianfranco Dušić visited beautiful sea-crag Brseč where he fired the magnificent 50 meters long Schussler extension (8b). Our champion, Jernej Kruder, was in the big cave of Osp where in between the real tries in his project smashed Bala Bala (8b+) on his second go, calling it soft. In Medveja Matej Sova...
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Boulderers tied in a rope

photo @ Miha Hribar in Missing link (8b+) in Mišja peč Some days went by and extreme number of hard ascents were done on Istrian rocks. Jakob Bizjak had an amazing day in Mišja peč. First, he did super steep Talk is cheap (8c) and shortly after the long beauty Karizma (8b+). Wow! Another strong boulderer, Miha Hribar, tied himself on a rope after a long time and in two days of tries he managed to clip the chains of his first 8b+ ever, the mythic Missing link. Check video of his ascent here! Bravo, Miha! Another rare ascent of short, bouldery and old-school 8b+, Pugacioff in Napoleonica was done by Luca Bacer. Thumbs up! Our strong Slovakian friend Stefan Bednar climbed Ninja želva (8c) in the left part of Mišja peč. The extension of Tortuga (7b) was first ascended by Slovenian champion Janja Garnbret two years ago. Klemen Novak had a great day in...
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Easter holidays

The highlight of this week is Matteo Menardi's ascent of Martin Krpan (9a), traverse route in the right part of Mišja peč. This was the fourth 9a for 19-years old Italian living in Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites. In Mišja peč as well, Slovenian Jakob Bizjak climbed Corrida (8c) and made one of the rare repeats of old school route with a balancy boulder in a slab named Klobasa (8a+). In sector Babna in Osp, Saša Vidmar redpointed powerful RKc (8a) while Klemen Novak fired Veper lady (8b) on his third go. Projekt O.S.P. reports about ravens having a nest in a route Tantalove muke (7a) in the left part of Babna. That is why it is forbidden to climb following routes: Ospomaniak, El Garbo, Tantalove muke, Rutka, Kameleon and Daleč stran je sodni dan. Climbers, please RESPECT THAT, so we can continue climbing in our beloved crags. Passing Croatian border, in...
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Team Colombia on a visit

Spring arrived, finally sunny weather, climbers are returning from their indoor gyms back outside on sunny rocks, even Team Colombia (Mar, Gabo and Rafa leyenda) got here and suffered the last three days in total un-tropical conditions. 😊 Anyways, since our last news, some water dripped in the tufas of Osp, so to mention a few of the ascents we have noticed in this last days. Only 13 years old Ema Seliškar climbed the classic Karies (8a+) in just couple of tries in Osp, sector above the village. Wow! 😉 Then in Mišja peč Petra Zupan did the resistant jewel Uživancija (8a). Cheers up for that one as well, it's not easy at all! Also some guys were climbing over here 😉 Andraž Gregorčič redpointed beautiful Sreča vrtnice (8b) while the young and strong Checz Denis Pail did Lazuret (8b) in the left side of Mišja peč. Seems like winter is really over and just super nice...
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Closed Costiera

The scenic climbing area above the gulf of Trieste named Costiera is closed permanently until 8th of April due to the maintenance work on a road above. Please, visit another crag, there are really many close by, wind protected and south oriented, perfect for the winter! Maybe you can try Aurisina, Napoleonica, Val Rosandra or even the world-wide known Osp and Mišja peč. They are all well worth a visit....
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Latest climbing news from Istria

Warming up this Thursday in Mišja peč @photo by Klemen Bečan Until Saturday climbing conditions in Istria were perfect, sun and dry rocks motivated a lot of climbers to go to their favourite crags. Many nice and also hard routes were climbed almost everywhere. Let us mention some of the most remarkable ascents. Jernej Kruder climbed the multipitch Stara (8b+, 130m) in the big wall of Osp. This is second free ascent of this historic aid route from 1977. The first ascent was done by Luka Krajnc in 2016. More about the route in this link to the video. After redpointing Stara, Jernej went in sector Babna above the village of Osp and onsighted a nice route Fantastic voyage (8a+). Couple of days later he succeeded in Sbisigando con l'Orango (8b+) in sector Mano di Fatima in Napoleonica. In Mišja peč, Rajko Zajc climbed Karizma (8b+), Jaka Šprah fired the...
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Week update

Photo @ Mišja peč in fog Last week was sunny with really high temps for this period and there were really just a few climbers hanging on the rocks. Anyways, Jakob Bizjak redpointed one of the longest routes in Mišja peč, Millennium (8b+). Particularly in this route, not long time ago one hold broke on its half, so it got for sure a bit harder than it was before. This is the first repeat after the broken hold. Furthermore, also Benjamin Marjanović climbed the biggest traverse in the left part of Mišja peč called Mr. Big hand with the grade of 8b+. This route starts in Corto (8a), makes almost 90% of it, then traverses to the right passing the top crux of Manana (7c), going to the Talk is cheap (8c) and its no hand rest and traverses to the right into one of the most historic routes of Mišja peč ever,...
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