Category Archives: news

Conditions are back and many hard projects down

Photo @ Martin Wagner in La peste nera (8b+) in Baratro Martin Wagner from Germany finished his hard endurance fight with La peste nera (8b+) in Baratro, secret crag above Trieste, which he also rebolted back in June. Here is the link to his nice video climbing this route! Andrea Padoan, Trieste based and Baratro local, clipped the chains of Hercules (8b+) in the central part of the crag. Also in Baratro Jakob Bizjak fired Holocaust (8b+) and unluckily fell in its extension named Il sultano nero (8c) on its last hard move. Next time dude, no problem! But, he visited Buzetski kanjon where in one-day crushed Lap dance, the classic 8b, on its third go and on the second go Vaška mafija, 8b as well. For the cherry on top he went to Skedenj where he onsighted his first 8b, Sežana 31249. Wow, absolutely amazing considering he did all these routes in just a week. Bravo...
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Hot, but possible to climb!

Jure Piršič in between the tufas of Osapska pošast (8c) in the cave of Osp @ photo by Suzana Uršič Jure Piršič climbed his first 8c by clipping the chains of 55 meters long marathon route in the big cave of Osp, “Osapska pošast” alias “The monster from Osp”! Bravo Jure ;) The author of the just mentioned route, Klemen Bečan, is back in Slovenia. He used good conditions in Skedenj and on his second go fired Vision, the 8b+ characterized by first boulder in full roof with extra-long moves on the undercuts, steep traverse on big holds but always in the roof and one more boulder on smaller crimps to finish on big moves and OK holds. The second part still remains a project! We know it's possible, come on guys! Timon Lauck from Germany is back on his summer holidays in Istria. Like last year, he used early morning hours to visit, climb and crush...
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Jaka Šprah redpointed Starec in morje 8c

Goran Matika on the first repeat of Starec in morje (8c) in Limski kanal @ photo by Enna Peroš Jaka Šprah was on summer holidays in Istria where in between swimming in the Adriatic Sea bagged the 2nd repeat of Starec in morje (8c) in Limski kanal. The route was first ascended by Slovenian climbing legend Franci Jensterle a couple of years ago and later repeated only by Goran Matika. For a successful burn he needed a week of tries and to avoid the summer heat, he was waking up already at 5:30 AM. Thumbs up for Jaka! Jakob Bizjak visited the secret crag Baratro above the Trieste gulf which offers quality climbing also during the summer. There he crushed La supercanna (8b+) in just four tries and »onsighted« La formica atomica (8a). Some years ago, he briefly tried the neighbouring Apache kid (8a+) which shares the first three quickdraws. Many other projects are still waiting...
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Summer in Istria

Hassan Mirzahosseini in Šatida Bagaba (6a+) in the cave of Osp @ photo by Klemen Bečan The summer heat is fully on, the temps got higher than 30 degrees Celsius, but some climbers just can't resist climbing in the »fresh« climbing areas. Klemen Bečan returned back to Slovenia, and immediately went to his home crag the big cave of Osp, where for training he repeated his classics like Bitka s stalaktiti (8b), Osapska pošast (8c) and so on. Just for fun he established a new combo route Insanity combinazion which starts in Secret project, does its first boulder, continue to the left passing the second anchor of Active discharge, the second anchor of Troja, passing Bitka, doing some hard parts of Osapska pošast, passing Waterworld to finish on the top of Leon. A really insane combination route that looks like it lasts for ever. The UK climbing legend Gareth Parry came back to the cave of Osp...
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Finta di mona 8b+ FA in Buzetski kanjon

Gianfranco Dušić in Finta di mona (8b+) @ photo from his FB A couple of days back Gianfranco Dušić redpointed one of the steepest projects in Istria, the old Stefanos Varnerins project to the left of Izvor života (8a) in Buzetski kanjon, sector Slap (Waterfall). Now the route has a name Finta di mona and it's proposed grade is 8b+. Gianfranco claims it as his super antystyle, as it presents full roof climbing, but anyways with his biiiig span and full shape on, he managed to cruise right through it. Just big congrats! By the way, after too much rain, the lake in the big cave cave of Osp finally disappeared and one of the latest local guys, Anej Kodele ticked Helihopter malo drugače (8c), a link between Helihopter v omaki and Osapska pošast, just another 55 meters long and at least 30 meters steep endurance monster pitch. Bravo for the first 8c, dude! Besides of that, he just did...
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Girls rock in Istria

Ana Ogrinc in Baratroneta (8a+), Baratro @ photo by Elena Facco Summer is here and some climbers just don't care about it! Ana Ogrinc visited the big cave in Osp where she redpointed the tufa paradise extension of Trojanski konj (7c+) named Laokoon with the grade of 8a. A couple of days later she went climbing in Baratro, secret cave above Trieste where she ticked Baratroneta (8a+). Looks like she is back in full shape! Saša Vidmar got back to Baratro as well, where she climbed the easier variation of Masochismo (8b) which she did some weeks ago, named Siddharta with the grade of 8a+. One French guy called Dorian Decriteau didn't bother the summer heat at all and went climbing to Mišja peč where he smashed the endurance testpiece Lazuret (8b). Pretty awesome if you consider summer temperatures, Mišja pečs polishness and so on....
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Personal records by Saša Vidmar and Peter Juvan

Peter Juvan on the rest after the first part of Active discharge (8b+) in the big cave of Osp @ photo by Maja Vidmar Saša Vidmar clipped the chains of her first 8b, the route named Masochismo in the secret climbing area above Trieste, Baratro. Masochismo starts the same as Siddharta (8a+), has the same first crimpy and techy crux, then Siddharta turns to the right into the easier terrain while Masochismo continues directly in an overhang with another hard boulder. Bravo Saša! Another personal best was achieved by cracks fascinated climber Peter Juvan, who redpointed his first 8b+, the Klemen Bečan's 55 meters long endurance monster Active discharge in the big cave of Osp. The route is characterized by first pumpy part graded as a soft 8a on big tufas, with OK rest in a full roof that is followed by two boulders with super long reaches on big stalactites. Afterwards you have just another 20 meters...
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Luka Šorli climbed his 1st 8c, Osapska pošast

Photo @ Luka Šorli on the last big rest of Osapska pošast (8c) in the big cave of Osp The biggest news from the last days comes from Luka Šorli who is in his lifetime shape. On Sunday, he crushed his first 8c, the 55 meters beast named Osapska pošast in the big cave of Osp. He tried it a bit already last year after succeeding in his first 8b+, Active discharge . Then he got super close already a week ago when he fell with a broken tufa in his hand just half a meter before the top. On Sunday, he was a bit under pressure not to mess it up again, but at the end the hard work payed off and he just cruised it. Bravo Luka! Also in the big cave of Osp, another Luka, this time Luka Zazvonil made one of the rare repeats of one of the latest cave additions, Benjamin Marjanovič's...
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Jakob Bizjak fires two 8c’s in 3 days

Photo @ The view from the big cave of Osp Seems like Jakob Bizjak alias Bizi is in full shape. Just in three days he did two different 8c's. First, he crushed the famous Strelovod (8c) in the right part of Mišja peč in just 8 tries. Strelovod is a connection of the first part of Martin Krpan (9a) till it joins and finishes on Marjetica (8b). The first part is endurance climbing on good crimps, followed by a big rest in the hole of Marjetica, hard boulder on sloppers and small edges finished by resistant climbing on good holds until the top. Next day he had a restday and then returned to Osp, more precisely to the big cave of Osp. There he redpointed 55 meters long classic named Osapska pošast (8c) in just three tries. Osapska pošast was first ascended by Klemen Bečan. It is a hard 7c to get to the first...
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Ida Kups and Luca Bacer rocked Mišja peč

17 years old Polish competitor, Ida Kups visited Mišja peč where in a couple of days flashed Chiquita (8a) and Hugo (7c). She also did Samsara (8a) on her second go, then she continued for another 20 meters of the extension named Izgubljeni sin (8a+) and yeah, she onsighted the secont part. Well done! Young Italian Luca Bacer redpointed another 8c, this time Corrida (8c) in Mišja peč. Corrida was first ascended by Franci Jensterle back in 2004. It is the extension of the classic 7a warm up route Rodeo in the central part of Mišja peč. After the first chain you have a nice rest and shortly after an extremely hard boulder with small undercuts, bad pinches and poor footholds. From the boulder on, the route gets more sustained with a big run-out and some more hard moves directly under the top on 35 meters. The weather in the last days was quite...
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