Category Archives: news

All routes in Costiera climbed by Benjamin Marjanovič

Benjamin Marjanovič in Doris (8a) in Costiera @ photo by Anej Kodele Interesting news come from Benjamin Marjanovič who climbed all the routes in Costiera, an old-school climbing area with amazing scenery above the gulf of Trieste. His last redpointed routes were Meglio di niente (7c) and Doris (8a). Just to mention, that Costiera is home of the first Istrian 8a, Santa Esmeralda. There are only two projects left in this scenic crag, Graton pour homme and Ultimo tango, for which its well known that until now, still no climber did all the moves. Projects for the new coming generation? In Mišja peč, Guido de Sabbata redpointed the beautiful Sreča vrtnice (8b) while in Croatia, more specific in Kamena vrata, Rajko Zajc first ascended two short projects Pritisak (7c) and No sun no fun (7b+). The climbing season is on!...
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Finally better forecast for the next days

Photo @ Osp today The weather in the last days was not on the climber’s side. There were some windows of sun around new year, but as well a lot of rain, so many tufas were dripping. Now the rain stopped and the clouds are beginning to clear, the rocks are getting dry, and seems that it will be possible to climb normally again. From tomorrow on it should be perfect, let's use this nice weather for our beloved sport on the rocks! And what was climbed in the last days? Young and strong Italian Matteo Menardi flashed the long Uživancija (8a) in Mišja peč. German Stephan Vogt visited Pandora where he flashed Marmots at work, a route where a new hold appeared in the crux probably because of the overbrushing, so the grade dropped from 8b to somewhere around 8a or 8a+. He was also climbing in Kompanj, where he made a first...
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Happy new year 2018!

Photo @ Kompanj Dear ClimbIstria followers, climbers and all nice souls around, www.climbistria.com team wishes you all a Happy new year 2018! We wish you all a lot of nice days outside in our beloved crags, perfect conditions, big biceps, good skin and supportive belay buddies. 😊 Let's enjoy next year as it was our last, stay healthy, full of love, everything else will come by its own. See you at the crag!...
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Martin Bergant and Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč

Mina Markovič in Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč @photo by Luka Fonda Yesterday, Martin Bergant fired his hardest route to date, Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč. The king line in the central part of Mišja peč in between the famous warm-up climb Rodeo (7a) and the classic Ptičja perspektiva (7b, 8a+) was first climbed by Matej Sova back in 2004. It is around 35 meters long with the first half quiet easy climbing on tufas untill the good rest under the first crux on small pinches and crimps followed by poor kneebar rest on sloppers. After that it comes the hardest part of the route on very small crimps, sidepulls and bad footholds. From there on, you are in the »game«, you just need some speed, clear head and a lot of power endurance. No clipping for next 10 meters on perfect holds far apart and no rest to shake out just for a bit,...
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Osp news

Photo @ Osp and Mišja peč It was a sunny week and the weekend full of climbers on the rocks in Istria. Lots of routes were climbed, just to mention some of the hardest redpoints. Jaka Šprah sent Corrida (8c) in Mišja peč. This is the third 8c for a young climber from Ljubljana and his first from Mišja peč. Corrida is an extension of the famous tufa warm-up climb Rodeo (7a). Shortly after the first chain you have the hardest part of the route, around ten moves on bad pinches, undercuts, poor footholds and a balancy dyno to an ok crimp and a small and the last rest before the top. From the rest on, the route gets more sustained with a big run-out and some more hard moves directly under the anchor on 35 meters high main wall. A true pearl first ascended by legendary Franci Jensterle back in 2004. Also...
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Holidays in Istria

Photo @ yesterday from the parking of Kompanj Last week in Istria was full of sun, perfect conditions and climbers everywhere. An extreme number of beautiful routes were climbed, nice emotions were achieved, climbers had fun, … Just to name a few of the most remarkable ascents that we forgot in our last post. Austrian, more specific Tyrolean ex competitor Martina Harnisch explored Istria for a bit and visited Medveja, Kompanj, Brseč, Buzetski kanjon (sectors Đoser and Pengari). In awesome sector Pengari of Buzetski kanjon she onsighted the masterpiece Nevermind (7c+) and as well a bit soft 8a named Too late. Afterwards she fired Petarda (8a+) on her second go. In Brseč she onsighted almost everything, Mathilde and Schussler (both classic 7c+’s) and Hammer King (7c). Klemen Kejžar was in Brseč also and he onsighted all the same routes as Martina did. Moritz Welt spent his last...
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Nico Ferlitsch climbed his 1st 9a, Martin Krpan

photo @ Nico Ferlitsch in Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja peč On 28th of October 16 years old Austrian Nico Ferlitsch redpointed Martin Krpan (9a), the hardest route in the right part of Mišja peč. He tried it in winter, spring and after the summer he came back in October to finish it off. For a successful ascent he needed about 40 tries during this year. Martin Krpan can be considered as the most repeated 9a in Istria, it was a first 9a ever for climbing legends like Adam Ondra, Domen Škofic,... The route starts with a not too hard boulder problem, then you come to a good rest by the second bolt (and the last good rest), then there is a power endurance section, which is in same time the first part of Strelovod. The first part is about 8a+, no rest and then you have pretty much the whole Konec Mira, which is about...
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Another FA 8c in Istria by Klemen Bečan

photo @ Kompanj Klemen Bečan really not tires from climbing. Looks like he is not taking rest days at all, since he’s onsighting, bolting new routes, doing FAs, coaching on climbing camps and so on. This time he was climbing on the left side of Kompanj, more specifically in sector Klobasi or Ghey team however you prefer. In between routes La dottrina di nappi Valentina (8a) and Hajvan (7c+) he smashed around 30 meters high project bolted by Gianfranco Dušič. It starts with the »broccoli« vertical wall on solid but extremely small and sharp crimps and goes to a full rest on a tufa underneath the roof. From here it follows up slightly to the right on OK undercuts but poor feet until the footholds disappear. Then you put your feet on nothing but poor friction and you move left in the grey slab where in the middle is the only hold. Fortunately, a big “jug”,...
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Istrian Rocktober

photo @ Mišja peč in the sunset It’s not only happening on Octoberfest, f… Rocktober is in Istria! Good conditions are here, enthusiastic climbers are filling the crags, and nature makes you feel nice and warm in it's autumn colors. Let's start with the queen of our climbing areas, Mišja peč. Young and strong guns Klemen Novak and Matevž Stopar both redpointed Lahko noč Irena (8b) in a burning sunny day and Australian Heather Trevarthen smashed Samsara (8a) in a great style. Rajko Zajc was busy with rebolting classics like super steep Talk is cheap (8c) and short, bouldery Truplojedka (8a+). The later one was flashed by Žan Lovenjak Sudar. Great job, everyone! A couple of hundred meters to the left in the big cave of Osp, Italian Enrico Cassol succeeded in one of the rare repeats of Klemen Bečan's hard 8b, Bala Bala. You can check Stripe Visual's video here, if you haven't seen it...
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Klemen Bečan’s FAs & Mišja news

Istarske toplice @photo by Anja Bečan Klemen Bečan was climbing in Istria during his training camp. In between he managed some first ascents in Istarske toplice. First he onsighted Panino con tutto for which he proposed a grade around 8a, afterwards he onsighted as well a project left from Fino a qui tutto bene (8b+) for which he proposed a grade of 8b and named it »Babja smer« aka »Girls route« because it is full of small crimps and long moves on it. In Mišja peč Polish girl, Ania Grabinska, redpointed Chiquita (8a) and Boštjan Weingerl smashed the longest route of Mišja peč, Bastilla (8b+). Rajko Zajc bolted and freed a new warm up route between Albanski konjak (6c+) and Rodeo (7a), now with the name Kranjska sivka and a grade of 6c. A new warm up route in the middle of Mišja peč! More and more going on in Istria! Rocktober is...
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