Category Archives: news

Istrian Rocktober

photo @ Mišja peč in the sunset It’s not only happening on Octoberfest, f… Rocktober is in Istria! Good conditions are here, enthusiastic climbers are filling the crags, and nature makes you feel nice and warm in it's autumn colors. Let's start with the queen of our climbing areas, Mišja peč. Young and strong guns Klemen Novak and Matevž Stopar both redpointed Lahko noč Irena (8b) in a burning sunny day and Australian Heather Trevarthen smashed Samsara (8a) in a great style. Rajko Zajc was busy with rebolting classics like super steep Talk is cheap (8c) and short, bouldery Truplojedka (8a+). The later one was flashed by Žan Lovenjak Sudar. Great job, everyone! A couple of hundred meters to the left in the big cave of Osp, Italian Enrico Cassol succeeded in one of the rare repeats of Klemen Bečan's hard 8b, Bala Bala. You can check Stripe Visual's video here, if you haven't seen it...
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Klemen Bečan’s FAs & Mišja news

Istarske toplice @photo by Anja Bečan Klemen Bečan was climbing in Istria during his training camp. In between he managed some first ascents in Istarske toplice. First he onsighted Panino con tutto for which he proposed a grade around 8a, afterwards he onsighted as well a project left from Fino a qui tutto bene (8b+) for which he proposed a grade of 8b and named it »Babja smer« aka »Girls route« because it is full of small crimps and long moves on it. In Mišja peč Polish girl, Ania Grabinska, redpointed Chiquita (8a) and Boštjan Weingerl smashed the longest route of Mišja peč, Bastilla (8b+). Rajko Zajc bolted and freed a new warm up route between Albanski konjak (6c+) and Rodeo (7a), now with the name Kranjska sivka and a grade of 6c. A new warm up route in the middle of Mišja peč! More and more going on in Istria! Rocktober is...
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Sendtember in Istria

Luca Bacer in Le terme del musico (8c) in Baratro @ photo by Elena Facco Lots of people would think that rain might have destroyed hard ascents in Istria but it was just the opposite. Young and strong Trieste based local climber Luca Bacer succeeded in one of the rare ascents of Le terme del musico (8c) in Baratro. It is a direct start on super small crimps and poor footholds to join the classic Il musico (8b). It has to be noticed as well that in Il musico on the second crux one artificial hold fell off a couple of years ago, so it became a hard 8b without it. A couple of days later he proved his shape once more with the fast ascent of Helihopter v omaki (8b), super steep route in the big cave of Osp. The same route was redpointed three days ago by restless Ana Senegačnik Kurnik. This was her second 8b, after the...
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Week update

Urša Florjančič in Sex and candy (8a+) in Skedenj close to Sežana Last week’s highlights in sport climbing in Istria were for sure strong girls’ ascents. Mina Markovič took a break from her routine training in the gym for the upcoming lead World Cups and visited Baratro, where she managed the one-day ascent of Il sicario sanguinario, the classic crimpy endurance test piece graded 8c. Wuau Mina, keep on crushing! Urša Florjančič clipped the chains of her first 8a+, the Skedenj’s classic named ‘’Sex and candy’’, which is about 25-30 meters long and is for sure one of the best routes of this grade in the area. Thanks to Andrea Padoan who has bolted it! And yeah of course, well done Urša! The weather forecast for the weekend seems quite shitty, but after Monday nice weather will be back with cooler temps. Don't forget, you can always climb in rain in Mišja peč or in the big cave...
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Conditions are back and many hard projects down

Photo @ Martin Wagner in La peste nera (8b+) in Baratro Martin Wagner from Germany finished his hard endurance fight with La peste nera (8b+) in Baratro, secret crag above Trieste, which he also rebolted back in June. Here is the link to his nice video climbing this route! Andrea Padoan, Trieste based and Baratro local, clipped the chains of Hercules (8b+) in the central part of the crag. Also in Baratro Jakob Bizjak fired Holocaust (8b+) and unluckily fell in its extension named Il sultano nero (8c) on its last hard move. Next time dude, no problem! But, he visited Buzetski kanjon where in one-day crushed Lap dance, the classic 8b, on its third go and on the second go Vaška mafija, 8b as well. For the cherry on top he went to Skedenj where he onsighted his first 8b, Sežana 31249. Wow, absolutely amazing considering he did all these routes in just a week. Bravo...
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Hot, but possible to climb!

Jure Piršič in between the tufas of Osapska pošast (8c) in the cave of Osp @ photo by Suzana Uršič Jure Piršič climbed his first 8c by clipping the chains of 55 meters long marathon route in the big cave of Osp, “Osapska pošast” alias “The monster from Osp”! Bravo Jure ;) The author of the just mentioned route, Klemen Bečan, is back in Slovenia. He used good conditions in Skedenj and on his second go fired Vision, the 8b+ characterized by first boulder in full roof with extra-long moves on the undercuts, steep traverse on big holds but always in the roof and one more boulder on smaller crimps to finish on big moves and OK holds. The second part still remains a project! We know it's possible, come on guys! Timon Lauck from Germany is back on his summer holidays in Istria. Like last year, he used early morning hours to visit, climb and crush...
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Jaka Šprah redpointed Starec in morje 8c

Goran Matika on the first repeat of Starec in morje (8c) in Limski kanal @ photo by Enna Peroš Jaka Šprah was on summer holidays in Istria where in between swimming in the Adriatic Sea bagged the 2nd repeat of Starec in morje (8c) in Limski kanal. The route was first ascended by Slovenian climbing legend Franci Jensterle a couple of years ago and later repeated only by Goran Matika. For a successful burn he needed a week of tries and to avoid the summer heat, he was waking up already at 5:30 AM. Thumbs up for Jaka! Jakob Bizjak visited the secret crag Baratro above the Trieste gulf which offers quality climbing also during the summer. There he crushed La supercanna (8b+) in just four tries and »onsighted« La formica atomica (8a). Some years ago, he briefly tried the neighbouring Apache kid (8a+) which shares the first three quickdraws. Many other projects are still waiting...
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Summer in Istria

Hassan Mirzahosseini in Šatida Bagaba (6a+) in the cave of Osp @ photo by Klemen Bečan The summer heat is fully on, the temps got higher than 30 degrees Celsius, but some climbers just can't resist climbing in the »fresh« climbing areas. Klemen Bečan returned back to Slovenia, and immediately went to his home crag the big cave of Osp, where for training he repeated his classics like Bitka s stalaktiti (8b), Osapska pošast (8c) and so on. Just for fun he established a new combo route Insanity combinazion which starts in Secret project, does its first boulder, continue to the left passing the second anchor of Active discharge, the second anchor of Troja, passing Bitka, doing some hard parts of Osapska pošast, passing Waterworld to finish on the top of Leon. A really insane combination route that looks like it lasts for ever. The UK climbing legend Gareth Parry came back to the cave of Osp...
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Finta di mona 8b+ FA in Buzetski kanjon

Gianfranco Dušić in Finta di mona (8b+) @ photo from his FB A couple of days back Gianfranco Dušić redpointed one of the steepest projects in Istria, the old Stefanos Varnerins project to the left of Izvor života (8a) in Buzetski kanjon, sector Slap (Waterfall). Now the route has a name Finta di mona and it's proposed grade is 8b+. Gianfranco claims it as his super antystyle, as it presents full roof climbing, but anyways with his biiiig span and full shape on, he managed to cruise right through it. Just big congrats! By the way, after too much rain, the lake in the big cave cave of Osp finally disappeared and one of the latest local guys, Anej Kodele ticked Helihopter malo drugače (8c), a link between Helihopter v omaki and Osapska pošast, just another 55 meters long and at least 30 meters steep endurance monster pitch. Bravo for the first 8c, dude! Besides of that, he just did...
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Girls rock in Istria

Ana Ogrinc in Baratroneta (8a+), Baratro @ photo by Elena Facco Summer is here and some climbers just don't care about it! Ana Ogrinc visited the big cave in Osp where she redpointed the tufa paradise extension of Trojanski konj (7c+) named Laokoon with the grade of 8a. A couple of days later she went climbing in Baratro, secret cave above Trieste where she ticked Baratroneta (8a+). Looks like she is back in full shape! Saša Vidmar got back to Baratro as well, where she climbed the easier variation of Masochismo (8b) which she did some weeks ago, named Siddharta with the grade of 8a+. One French guy called Dorian Decriteau didn't bother the summer heat at all and went climbing to Mišja peč where he smashed the endurance testpiece Lazuret (8b). Pretty awesome if you consider summer temperatures, Mišja pečs polishness and so on....
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