Category Archives: news

Personal records by Saša Vidmar and Peter Juvan

Peter Juvan on the rest after the first part of Active discharge (8b+) in the big cave of Osp @ photo by Maja Vidmar Saša Vidmar clipped the chains of her first 8b, the route named Masochismo in the secret climbing area above Trieste, Baratro. Masochismo starts the same as Siddharta (8a+), has the same first crimpy and techy crux, then Siddharta turns to the right into the easier terrain while Masochismo continues directly in an overhang with another hard boulder. Bravo Saša! Another personal best was achieved by cracks fascinated climber Peter Juvan, who redpointed his first 8b+, the Klemen Bečan's 55 meters long endurance monster Active discharge in the big cave of Osp. The route is characterized by first pumpy part graded as a soft 8a on big tufas, with OK rest in a full roof that is followed by two boulders with super long reaches on big stalactites. Afterwards you have just another 20 meters...
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Luka Šorli climbed his 1st 8c, Osapska pošast

Photo @ Luka Šorli on the last big rest of Osapska pošast (8c) in the big cave of Osp The biggest news from the last days comes from Luka Šorli who is in his lifetime shape. On Sunday, he crushed his first 8c, the 55 meters beast named Osapska pošast in the big cave of Osp. He tried it a bit already last year after succeeding in his first 8b+, Active discharge . Then he got super close already a week ago when he fell with a broken tufa in his hand just half a meter before the top. On Sunday, he was a bit under pressure not to mess it up again, but at the end the hard work payed off and he just cruised it. Bravo Luka! Also in the big cave of Osp, another Luka, this time Luka Zazvonil made one of the rare repeats of one of the latest cave additions, Benjamin Marjanovič's...
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Jakob Bizjak fires two 8c’s in 3 days

Photo @ The view from the big cave of Osp Seems like Jakob Bizjak alias Bizi is in full shape. Just in three days he did two different 8c's. First, he crushed the famous Strelovod (8c) in the right part of Mišja peč in just 8 tries. Strelovod is a connection of the first part of Martin Krpan (9a) till it joins and finishes on Marjetica (8b). The first part is endurance climbing on good crimps, followed by a big rest in the hole of Marjetica, hard boulder on sloppers and small edges finished by resistant climbing on good holds until the top. Next day he had a restday and then returned to Osp, more precisely to the big cave of Osp. There he redpointed 55 meters long classic named Osapska pošast (8c) in just three tries. Osapska pošast was first ascended by Klemen Bečan. It is a hard 7c to get to the first...
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Ida Kups and Luca Bacer rocked Mišja peč

17 years old Polish competitor, Ida Kups visited Mišja peč where in a couple of days flashed Chiquita (8a) and Hugo (7c). She also did Samsara (8a) on her second go, then she continued for another 20 meters of the extension named Izgubljeni sin (8a+) and yeah, she onsighted the secont part. Well done! Young Italian Luca Bacer redpointed another 8c, this time Corrida (8c) in Mišja peč. Corrida was first ascended by Franci Jensterle back in 2004. It is the extension of the classic 7a warm up route Rodeo in the central part of Mišja peč. After the first chain you have a nice rest and shortly after an extremely hard boulder with small undercuts, bad pinches and poor footholds. From the boulder on, the route gets more sustained with a big run-out and some more hard moves directly under the top on 35 meters. The weather in the last days was quite...
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Easter holidays and the 1st of May in Istria

photo @ the view towards the gulf of Trieste from the scenic Val Rosandra Like always for Easter holidays and the 1st of May in Istria was full of climbers. The most popular climbing areas were overcrowded and many hard routes were climbed everywhere. Where to start? Slovenian Miha Pančur redpointed his first 8c, Osapski pajek in sector above the village of Osp. There Rok Blagus did an ascent of connection called Osapska mumija with the grade 8b. Close by in Mišja peč, Saša Vidmar climbed the easier variation of Pingvin (8a), which was onsighted by 13 years old Czech climber named Jan Vopat. He also onsighted Corto (8a) and the first part of Active discharge (8a) in the big cave of Osp. By the way, he also redpointed Marjetica, the short and powerful 8b in the right part of Mišja peč. Boštjan Weingerl did another 8b, this time Lucky Luke in Read more

Climbing news from Istria

Spring or almost summer temperatures hit Istria in the last days. All the crags, also the summer ones got totally dry and climbers moved from climbing in the sun to climbing in the shade. The biggest bouldering gym in Slovenia got opened! In Koper, Luka Fonda with his Plus climbing Koper club did a great job. There was an opening competition with more than 700 spectators. Amazing! A really nice addition to the Adriatic region climbing infrastructure and for sure a bright future for the people living over there! And what about the crags, redpoints, onsights in our favourite crags? Jakob Bizjak sent Bastilla (8b+) in Mišja peč. A rarely repeated marathon route that consists first 20 meters of hard and powerful Giljotina (8a), continuing in a total rest in between and a super hard crimpy and unsecure second part (8a+), followed by another rest, hard and tricky boulder in a full roof and amazing slab to...
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Personal bests in Mišja peč

Andraž Gregorčič in Pikova dama (8b) in Mišja peč @ photo by Boštjan Weingerl Spring arrived and the temps got incredibly high for this period of time. But anyways climbers pushed hard and many personal bests were achieved, as well some nice redpoints. Andraž Gregorčič and Simon Jesenko crushed their first 8b ever, the legendary Pikova dama in Mišja peč. Pikova dama was climbed as well by Matjaž Zorko who fired as well Lucky Luke (8b). Also Nejc Solje did his personal best after many years of climbing, he redpointed his first 8a+, the long and beautiful classic Ptičja perspektiva in Mišja peč, of course. Respect guys! Jakob Bizjak did another 8b in Mišja peč, this time Lucky Luke and strong Italian Davide Picco smashed Strelovod (8c). Miha Pančur is cleaning the sector above the village in Osp, so he ticked Matičkov svet (8b). The weather forecast says for Istria for the next days...
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Latest news from Istrian crags

Like usual, Mišja peč was again the center of Istrian hardcore climbing. Polish powerhouse Lukasz Dudek was trying the ultimate challenge of Mišja peč, Adam Ondra's unrepeated Vicious circle (9a+/b). He is making really good connections on the route, so hopefully he will finish it soon. In between he also redpointed Gorenjski šnops (8b) and osighted Tekila (8a) in Mišja peč, made a fast visit to sector Babna in Osp where in one day onsighted Zadnja skušnjava, Črna gradnja and Fetia Ura (all 8a). Thumbs up for the Vicious circle!!! 17 years old or better say young, Slovakian climber named Tomas Plevko climbed the steep and powerful Mišja peč's classic Talk is cheap (8c). Local Boštjan Weingerl redpointed another two long beasts in the central part of Mišja, Karizma (8b+) and Gorenjski šnops (8b), while Jakob Bizjak clipped the chains of crimpy Chiquita (8b). On the woman's side, Saša...
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Many personal bests in Istrian crags

Rubina Medea in Rocket Max (8a+/b) in Kompanj @ photo by Hannes Raduner Hiebler Rocket Max (8a+/b) in Kompanj seems to be very popular this winter. It was climbed some days ago, by Austrian rockstar Barbara Raudner and by strong Rubina Medea! Well done, girls! :D Close to Kompanj, in super steep Pandora, Croatian Ivan Pevec clipped the anchor of his first 8b+, Es ist vollbracht! Bravo! Young and strong Slovenians crushed the long and beautiful test pieces in the central part of Mišja peč. Igor Primc redpointed Karizma (8b+), Dominik Fon Sreča vrtince (8b) and Jakob Bizjak Gorenjski šnops (8b). In the left part of Mišja peč, 12 years old Slovenian girl Ema Seliškar, fired her first 8a, the steep power endurance challenge of Corto (8a). Wuau, inspiring! Matičkov svet (8b) in the nearest Osp, in the sector Banje above the village, got a rare...
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Local climbers crushing everywhere

Klemen Novak in Der Berg ruft (8b) in Kompanj @photo by Anže Štremfelj All around Istria local climbers were climbing hard in the last days under prime winter conditions to redpoint their projects. In the mecca of hard routes, Mišja peč, Slovenians showed up strong. Jakob Bizjak climbed the centre’s classic Sreča vrtnice (8b), Boštjan Weingerl fired crimpy Vizija (8c) and Gašper Pintar onsighted the beautiful second part of Figa (7b) named Figaro (8a+). Also in Mišja peč, tall and strong Croatian Gianfranco Dušić easily did Lucky Luke (8b), which is quite morphological and for sure easier if you are taller. The Italian rock star Silvio Reffo showed up and on second go redpointed the technical Pikova dama (8b). In the big cave of Osp Anej Kodele succeeded in his first 8b+, 55 meters long Active discharge! Congrats! Crossing the Italian border, in the scenic Val Rosandra, Rok Blagus made one of the...
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