Category Archives: news

Team Colombia on a visit

Spring arrived, finally sunny weather, climbers are returning from their indoor gyms back outside on sunny rocks, even Team Colombia (Mar, Gabo and Rafa leyenda) got here and suffered the last three days in total un-tropical conditions. 😊 Anyways, since our last news, some water dripped in the tufas of Osp, so to mention a few of the ascents we have noticed in this last days. Only 13 years old Ema Seliškar climbed the classic Karies (8a+) in just couple of tries in Osp, sector above the village. Wow! 😉 Then in Mišja peč Petra Zupan did the resistant jewel Uživancija (8a). Cheers up for that one as well, it's not easy at all! Also some guys were climbing over here 😉 Andraž Gregorčič redpointed beautiful Sreča vrtnice (8b) while the young and strong Checz Denis Pail did Lazuret (8b) in the left side of Mišja peč. Seems like winter is really over and just super nice...
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Closed Costiera

The scenic climbing area above the gulf of Trieste named Costiera is closed permanently until 8th of April due to the maintenance work on a road above. Please, visit another crag, there are really many close by, wind protected and south oriented, perfect for the winter! Maybe you can try Aurisina, Napoleonica, Val Rosandra or even the world-wide known Osp and Mišja peč. They are all well worth a visit....
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Latest climbing news from Istria

Warming up this Thursday in Mišja peč @photo by Klemen Bečan Until Saturday climbing conditions in Istria were perfect, sun and dry rocks motivated a lot of climbers to go to their favourite crags. Many nice and also hard routes were climbed almost everywhere. Let us mention some of the most remarkable ascents. Jernej Kruder climbed the multipitch Stara (8b+, 130m) in the big wall of Osp. This is second free ascent of this historic aid route from 1977. The first ascent was done by Luka Krajnc in 2016. More about the route in this link to the video. After redpointing Stara, Jernej went in sector Babna above the village of Osp and onsighted a nice route Fantastic voyage (8a+). Couple of days later he succeeded in Sbisigando con l'Orango (8b+) in sector Mano di Fatima in Napoleonica. In Mišja peč, Rajko Zajc climbed Karizma (8b+), Jaka Šprah fired the...
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Week update

Photo @ Mišja peč in fog Last week was sunny with really high temps for this period and there were really just a few climbers hanging on the rocks. Anyways, Jakob Bizjak redpointed one of the longest routes in Mišja peč, Millennium (8b+). Particularly in this route, not long time ago one hold broke on its half, so it got for sure a bit harder than it was before. This is the first repeat after the broken hold. Furthermore, also Benjamin Marjanović climbed the biggest traverse in the left part of Mišja peč called Mr. Big hand with the grade of 8b+. This route starts in Corto (8a), makes almost 90% of it, then traverses to the right passing the top crux of Manana (7c), going to the Talk is cheap (8c) and its no hand rest and traverses to the right into one of the most historic routes of Mišja peč ever,...
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Vražji Robert (8b+ traditional) climbed by Jernej Kruder

Photo @ The big wall of Osp Vražji Robert or »The evil Robert« is a multipitch 8b+ route in the big wall of Osp protected only by old pitons. From the first easy warm up pitch you get to a comfy ledge from which starts a super-steep dihedral graded 8b to a hanging belay from where follows another 7c+. Like this it was first ascended by Igor Kalan and later repeated by Marko Lukič, Franci Jensterle, Martina Čufar, Miha Valič and Luka Krajnc. A couple of years later Slovenian alpinist Luka Lindič climbed the more logical ascent of this alpine route, linking the 8b into 7c+, to get a 40 meters long endurance testpiece from a belaying ledge to another good ledge and so did Jernej now as well. After this 8b+ pitch you have still one fragile and bad protected 7a and a finish in a nicely bolted 6b+. Thumbs up for Jernej, you...
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All routes in Costiera climbed by Benjamin Marjanovič

Benjamin Marjanovič in Doris (8a) in Costiera @ photo by Anej Kodele Interesting news come from Benjamin Marjanovič who climbed all the routes in Costiera, an old-school climbing area with amazing scenery above the gulf of Trieste. His last redpointed routes were Meglio di niente (7c) and Doris (8a). Just to mention, that Costiera is home of the first Istrian 8a, Santa Esmeralda. There are only two projects left in this scenic crag, Graton pour homme and Ultimo tango, for which its well known that until now, still no climber did all the moves. Projects for the new coming generation? In Mišja peč, Guido de Sabbata redpointed the beautiful Sreča vrtnice (8b) while in Croatia, more specific in Kamena vrata, Rajko Zajc first ascended two short projects Pritisak (7c) and No sun no fun (7b+). The climbing season is on!...
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Finally better forecast for the next days

Photo @ Osp today The weather in the last days was not on the climber’s side. There were some windows of sun around new year, but as well a lot of rain, so many tufas were dripping. Now the rain stopped and the clouds are beginning to clear, the rocks are getting dry, and seems that it will be possible to climb normally again. From tomorrow on it should be perfect, let's use this nice weather for our beloved sport on the rocks! And what was climbed in the last days? Young and strong Italian Matteo Menardi flashed the long Uživancija (8a) in Mišja peč. German Stephan Vogt visited Pandora where he flashed Marmots at work, a route where a new hold appeared in the crux probably because of the overbrushing, so the grade dropped from 8b to somewhere around 8a or 8a+. He was also climbing in Kompanj, where he made a first...
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Happy new year 2018!

Photo @ Kompanj Dear ClimbIstria followers, climbers and all nice souls around, www.climbistria.com team wishes you all a Happy new year 2018! We wish you all a lot of nice days outside in our beloved crags, perfect conditions, big biceps, good skin and supportive belay buddies. 😊 Let's enjoy next year as it was our last, stay healthy, full of love, everything else will come by its own. See you at the crag!...
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Martin Bergant and Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč

Mina Markovič in Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč @photo by Luka Fonda Yesterday, Martin Bergant fired his hardest route to date, Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč. The king line in the central part of Mišja peč in between the famous warm-up climb Rodeo (7a) and the classic Ptičja perspektiva (7b, 8a+) was first climbed by Matej Sova back in 2004. It is around 35 meters long with the first half quiet easy climbing on tufas untill the good rest under the first crux on small pinches and crimps followed by poor kneebar rest on sloppers. After that it comes the hardest part of the route on very small crimps, sidepulls and bad footholds. From there on, you are in the »game«, you just need some speed, clear head and a lot of power endurance. No clipping for next 10 meters on perfect holds far apart and no rest to shake out just for a bit,...
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Osp news

Photo @ Osp and Mišja peč It was a sunny week and the weekend full of climbers on the rocks in Istria. Lots of routes were climbed, just to mention some of the hardest redpoints. Jaka Šprah sent Corrida (8c) in Mišja peč. This is the third 8c for a young climber from Ljubljana and his first from Mišja peč. Corrida is an extension of the famous tufa warm-up climb Rodeo (7a). Shortly after the first chain you have the hardest part of the route, around ten moves on bad pinches, undercuts, poor footholds and a balancy dyno to an ok crimp and a small and the last rest before the top. From the rest on, the route gets more sustained with a big run-out and some more hard moves directly under the anchor on 35 meters high main wall. A true pearl first ascended by legendary Franci Jensterle back in 2004. Also...
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