Category Archives: news

Summer in Istria

Hassan Mirzahosseini in Šatida Bagaba (6a+) in the cave of Osp @ photo by Klemen Bečan The summer heat is fully on, the temps got higher than 30 degrees Celsius, but some climbers just can't resist climbing in the »fresh« climbing areas. Klemen Bečan returned back to Slovenia, and immediately went to his home crag the big cave of Osp, where for training he repeated his classics like Bitka s stalaktiti (8b), Osapska pošast (8c) and so on. Just for fun he established a new combo route Insanity combinazion which starts in Secret project, does its first boulder, continue to the left passing the second anchor of Active discharge, the second anchor of Troja, passing Bitka, doing some hard parts of Osapska pošast, passing Waterworld to finish on the top of Leon. A really insane combination route that looks like it lasts for ever. The UK climbing legend Gareth Parry came back to the cave of Osp...
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Finta di mona 8b+ FA in Buzetski kanjon

Gianfranco Dušić in Finta di mona (8b+) @ photo from his FB A couple of days back Gianfranco Dušić redpointed one of the steepest projects in Istria, the old Stefanos Varnerins project to the left of Izvor života (8a) in Buzetski kanjon, sector Slap (Waterfall). Now the route has a name Finta di mona and it's proposed grade is 8b+. Gianfranco claims it as his super antystyle, as it presents full roof climbing, but anyways with his biiiig span and full shape on, he managed to cruise right through it. Just big congrats! By the way, after too much rain, the lake in the big cave cave of Osp finally disappeared and one of the latest local guys, Anej Kodele ticked Helihopter malo drugače (8c), a link between Helihopter v omaki and Osapska pošast, just another 55 meters long and at least 30 meters steep endurance monster pitch. Bravo for the first 8c, dude! Besides of that, he just did...
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Girls rock in Istria

Ana Ogrinc in Baratroneta (8a+), Baratro @ photo by Elena Facco Summer is here and some climbers just don't care about it! Ana Ogrinc visited the big cave in Osp where she redpointed the tufa paradise extension of Trojanski konj (7c+) named Laokoon with the grade of 8a. A couple of days later she went climbing in Baratro, secret cave above Trieste where she ticked Baratroneta (8a+). Looks like she is back in full shape! Saša Vidmar got back to Baratro as well, where she climbed the easier variation of Masochismo (8b) which she did some weeks ago, named Siddharta with the grade of 8a+. One French guy called Dorian Decriteau didn't bother the summer heat at all and went climbing to Mišja peč where he smashed the endurance testpiece Lazuret (8b). Pretty awesome if you consider summer temperatures, Mišja pečs polishness and so on....
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Personal records by Saša Vidmar and Peter Juvan

Peter Juvan on the rest after the first part of Active discharge (8b+) in the big cave of Osp @ photo by Maja Vidmar Saša Vidmar clipped the chains of her first 8b, the route named Masochismo in the secret climbing area above Trieste, Baratro. Masochismo starts the same as Siddharta (8a+), has the same first crimpy and techy crux, then Siddharta turns to the right into the easier terrain while Masochismo continues directly in an overhang with another hard boulder. Bravo Saša! Another personal best was achieved by cracks fascinated climber Peter Juvan, who redpointed his first 8b+, the Klemen Bečan's 55 meters long endurance monster Active discharge in the big cave of Osp. The route is characterized by first pumpy part graded as a soft 8a on big tufas, with OK rest in a full roof that is followed by two boulders with super long reaches on big stalactites. Afterwards you have just another 20 meters...
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Luka Šorli climbed his 1st 8c, Osapska pošast

Photo @ Luka Šorli on the last big rest of Osapska pošast (8c) in the big cave of Osp The biggest news from the last days comes from Luka Šorli who is in his lifetime shape. On Sunday, he crushed his first 8c, the 55 meters beast named Osapska pošast in the big cave of Osp. He tried it a bit already last year after succeeding in his first 8b+, Active discharge . Then he got super close already a week ago when he fell with a broken tufa in his hand just half a meter before the top. On Sunday, he was a bit under pressure not to mess it up again, but at the end the hard work payed off and he just cruised it. Bravo Luka! Also in the big cave of Osp, another Luka, this time Luka Zazvonil made one of the rare repeats of one of the latest cave additions, Benjamin Marjanovič's...
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Jakob Bizjak fires two 8c’s in 3 days

Photo @ The view from the big cave of Osp Seems like Jakob Bizjak alias Bizi is in full shape. Just in three days he did two different 8c's. First, he crushed the famous Strelovod (8c) in the right part of Mišja peč in just 8 tries. Strelovod is a connection of the first part of Martin Krpan (9a) till it joins and finishes on Marjetica (8b). The first part is endurance climbing on good crimps, followed by a big rest in the hole of Marjetica, hard boulder on sloppers and small edges finished by resistant climbing on good holds until the top. Next day he had a restday and then returned to Osp, more precisely to the big cave of Osp. There he redpointed 55 meters long classic named Osapska pošast (8c) in just three tries. Osapska pošast was first ascended by Klemen Bečan. It is a hard 7c to get to the first...
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Ida Kups and Luca Bacer rocked Mišja peč

17 years old Polish competitor, Ida Kups visited Mišja peč where in a couple of days flashed Chiquita (8a) and Hugo (7c). She also did Samsara (8a) on her second go, then she continued for another 20 meters of the extension named Izgubljeni sin (8a+) and yeah, she onsighted the secont part. Well done! Young Italian Luca Bacer redpointed another 8c, this time Corrida (8c) in Mišja peč. Corrida was first ascended by Franci Jensterle back in 2004. It is the extension of the classic 7a warm up route Rodeo in the central part of Mišja peč. After the first chain you have a nice rest and shortly after an extremely hard boulder with small undercuts, bad pinches and poor footholds. From the boulder on, the route gets more sustained with a big run-out and some more hard moves directly under the top on 35 meters. The weather in the last days was quite...
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Easter holidays and the 1st of May in Istria

photo @ the view towards the gulf of Trieste from the scenic Val Rosandra Like always for Easter holidays and the 1st of May in Istria was full of climbers. The most popular climbing areas were overcrowded and many hard routes were climbed everywhere. Where to start? Slovenian Miha Pančur redpointed his first 8c, Osapski pajek in sector above the village of Osp. There Rok Blagus did an ascent of connection called Osapska mumija with the grade 8b. Close by in Mišja peč, Saša Vidmar climbed the easier variation of Pingvin (8a), which was onsighted by 13 years old Czech climber named Jan Vopat. He also onsighted Corto (8a) and the first part of Active discharge (8a) in the big cave of Osp. By the way, he also redpointed Marjetica, the short and powerful 8b in the right part of Mišja peč. Boštjan Weingerl did another 8b, this time Lucky Luke in Read more

Climbing news from Istria

Spring or almost summer temperatures hit Istria in the last days. All the crags, also the summer ones got totally dry and climbers moved from climbing in the sun to climbing in the shade. The biggest bouldering gym in Slovenia got opened! In Koper, Luka Fonda with his Plus climbing Koper club did a great job. There was an opening competition with more than 700 spectators. Amazing! A really nice addition to the Adriatic region climbing infrastructure and for sure a bright future for the people living over there! And what about the crags, redpoints, onsights in our favourite crags? Jakob Bizjak sent Bastilla (8b+) in Mišja peč. A rarely repeated marathon route that consists first 20 meters of hard and powerful Giljotina (8a), continuing in a total rest in between and a super hard crimpy and unsecure second part (8a+), followed by another rest, hard and tricky boulder in a full roof and amazing slab to...
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Personal bests in Mišja peč

Andraž Gregorčič in Pikova dama (8b) in Mišja peč @ photo by Boštjan Weingerl Spring arrived and the temps got incredibly high for this period of time. But anyways climbers pushed hard and many personal bests were achieved, as well some nice redpoints. Andraž Gregorčič and Simon Jesenko crushed their first 8b ever, the legendary Pikova dama in Mišja peč. Pikova dama was climbed as well by Matjaž Zorko who fired as well Lucky Luke (8b). Also Nejc Solje did his personal best after many years of climbing, he redpointed his first 8a+, the long and beautiful classic Ptičja perspektiva in Mišja peč, of course. Respect guys! Jakob Bizjak did another 8b in Mišja peč, this time Lucky Luke and strong Italian Davide Picco smashed Strelovod (8c). Miha Pančur is cleaning the sector above the village in Osp, so he ticked Matičkov svet (8b). The weather forecast says for Istria for the next days...
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