Category Archives: news

Local climbers crushing everywhere

Klemen Novak in Der Berg ruft (8b) in Kompanj @photo by Anže Štremfelj All around Istria local climbers were climbing hard in the last days under prime winter conditions to redpoint their projects. In the mecca of hard routes, Mišja peč, Slovenians showed up strong. Jakob Bizjak climbed the centre’s classic Sreča vrtnice (8b), Boštjan Weingerl fired crimpy Vizija (8c) and Gašper Pintar onsighted the beautiful second part of Figa (7b) named Figaro (8a+). Also in Mišja peč, tall and strong Croatian Gianfranco Dušić easily did Lucky Luke (8b), which is quite morphological and for sure easier if you are taller. The Italian rock star Silvio Reffo showed up and on second go redpointed the technical Pikova dama (8b). In the big cave of Osp Anej Kodele succeeded in his first 8b+, 55 meters long Active discharge! Congrats! Crossing the Italian border, in the scenic Val Rosandra, Rok Blagus made one of the...
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Bora wind in Istria

A thin layer of snow decorated the top of Karst edge and super strong bora wind was moving trash bins on the streets and tree branches in the last days in Istria. It's been blowing up to 160 kilometres per hour. The Bora is a northern to north-eastern wind characteristic for the Adriatic region. The wind is an integral feature of Slovenia's Vipava Valley and, to a lesser extent, the Karst Plateau, an area of limestone heights over the Gulf of Trieste stretching towards the Istrian peninsula. Because the region separates the lower Adriatic coast from the Julian Alps range, extreme bora winds often occur there. It has for sure influenced the region's traditional lifestyle and architecture. Towns on the coast, where the bora frequently occurs, are built densely with narrow streets in part because of the wind. Buildings in several towns and villages in Slovenia and the Province of Trieste (Italy) have stones on their roofs to prevent...
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Crispy temps & hot sends

photo @ The view from RockNRoč New Year passed but still many rockstars remained in Istria due to the sunny, chilly and windy weather, bringing sometimes the best friction to your fingers and then just couple of minutes later leaving you with totally numb fingers. But still, plenty of hard stuff has been climbed lately, really a lot…. In Medveja, Andrea Polo made a first ascent of an old Stefano Varnerin's project now named El Kvarner with the grade of 8b. Wuau! Anna Stohr visited Pandora and easily crushed Gerhard Hoerhager's classic Avatar (8b). Gašper Pintar got back on the rocks and onsighted Pelinkovac (8a) in RockNRoč! There were many climbers in Mišja peč, where these things happened: Strelovod (8c) is definitely the route of this winter. It got another two redpoints, one from Stefan Madej from Poland and the other from Denis Pail from Czech Republic, for who it was the first 8c ever. Thumbs...
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HAPPY 2017!

Barbara Raudner in Venga Vecchio (8a) in Medveja @ photo by Hannes Raudner Hiebler Magnificent weather attracted many climbers to Istrian crags and many hard crushes were done during the new year's holidays. So many rockstars at the moment in Istria that is in fact really hard to follow all at the same time. The best bouldering couple of the world was celebrating the New Year in Istria on perfect rock and full sunshine. Anna Stohr and Kilian Fischuber were here! As far as we have noticed Anna did Realitatsverlust (8a) in Kompanj and flashed Diber (8a) in Medveja. The thrilling news about Kilian are more to come! Barbara Raudner visited Medveja again and crushed another 8a, this time the wonderful resistance challenge Venga vecchio. In Mišja peč, Wojtek Pelka from Poland and Italian Giorgio Bendazolli redpointed Strelovod (8c), while Giorgio as well onsighted the 8a classics of Mišja peč like Corto and Samsara. Rajko Zajc and...
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Christmas & NY climbing holidays in Istria

Barbara Raudner in Total extrem (8a) in Medveja @ photo by Hannes Raudner Hiebler Christmas and New Year's holidays are here! In Istria the weather forecast looks very promising, just sun for the next week! Make a reservation for your accommodation soon! Already now, in the last days, there were perfect conditions with sun, nice temps and full grip. Young and seriously strong Italian Matteo Menardi returned to Osp and smashed another testpiece of the big cave of Osp, a 55 meters long endurance challenge Osapska pošast (8c). Then Slovenian local, Boštjan Weingerl crushed the classic 30 meters long beast, Pikova dama (8b) in the central part of Mišja peč. Katarina Kejžar climbed a super short and bouldery Arci's route called Romantische Strasse (8a) above the road of Napoleonica in Trieste. Italian climber Davide Picco onsighted Corto (8a) in Mišja peč and Austrian rock climbing lady Barbara Raudner redpointed a fully steep beautiful...
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Janja Garnbret makes FA of Ninja želva (8c)

Domen Škofic in Ninja želva (8c) @ photo by Piotrek Deska This years best lead world cup circuit couple Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic showed up in Mišja peč last week. Totally relaxed after the mega successful WC season, they wanted to try something hard, really hard, but still without any expectations, no pressure, no grades, so they decided to give a go in one of the last remaining projects of Mišja peč! The extension of the classic Tortuga (turtle in english, 7b), in the left part of Mišja peč was bolted by Mitja Bizjak and Klemen Vodlan couple of years ago, and it goes directly in a big roof above the last bolt of Tortuga and involves a hard powerful and as well fully technical boulder problem for around 10 moves to get to the lip in the grade range of FB7c. They have tried really hard and on second go...
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Matteo Menardi redpointed Halupca 1979 (9a) in Osp

Matteo Menardi in Halupca 1979 (9a), the big cave of Osp @ photo from his FB Only 18 years old Italian climber Matteo Menardi from Cortina d'Ampezzo redpointed his third 9a, Halupca 1979 in the big cave of Osp. Halupca is extremely overhanging route about 25 meters long, with resistant first part that leads directly in to a hard boulder sequence on flat pinches and extreme drop knees followed by a good rest and some endurance climbing on tufas until the top. It was bolted by Klemen Bečan and freed by Matej Sova back in 2008. Bravo, Matteo! Another astonishing news comes from Limski kanal where Goran Matika managed the first repeat of the hardest route over there, Starec in morje (8c), which was first ascended by Franci Jensterle two years ago. Winter conditions are justifying their fame! Don't miss them out!...
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Igor Corko climbs Millenium, 8b+ in Misja pec

Igor Čorko in Millenium (8b+), Mišja peč @ photo by Luka Tambača Couple of days ago, 46 years old Croatian, a real local climber in Istria, ticked one of his longest life projects. Igor Čorko redpointed 40 meters long Millenium, route passing the steepest upper part of Mišja peč. Millenium (8b+) is the extension of the classic Mozaik (7c+) that after its first chain goes directly in the big roof above it. It was bolted by Italians and freed by Luka Zazvonil in the winter of 2000, that's why its name. Usually after the last competition of the World cup circuit taking place in Kranj, many world best lead climbers head to Slovenian outdoor power house, Mišja peč. This year we had caught only the ascents from a Japanese female competitor Risa Ota, where she easily on the second go crushed Iglu and Corto (both 8a). Jernej Kruder visited Pandora and on...
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Lead World Cup finals in Kranj this weekend!

In the last days, the weather was really bad and it looked like it will never stop raining. Unfortunately, almost every piece of Istria outdoors got wet. There is a lake in front of the big cave of Osp and all the tufas are dripping wet. But in Istria you can always find some dry rocks and seemingly dry routes, try: Mišja pečBuzetski kanjonKompanjPandoraČrnotiče Anyways, Istria is known by its sunny weather and nice climate, so don't be afraid to stay too far from the rocks. Already tomorrow the sun should come out and should stay for the whole next week. Yes! :) Not to forget, there is a Lead World Cup finals going on this weekend in Kranj, starting Saturday with qualifications, Saturday evening semifinals and Sunday at 16:00 o’clock finals. Everybody welcome! If you are in Istria this is a perfect opportunity to see...
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New hardest route in Brseč

The Croatian climbing legend Igor Čorko made a first ascent of new, now the hardest route in the sunny Brseč on the east coast of Istria. Already in the spring he bolted this 50 meters long extension of the new classic named Schussler (7c+). Now he redpointed it to the top and proposed a grade of 8b. Good job, man! Another FA was done, this time by Goran Matika aka Gogo in Buzetski kanjon, more precisely in sector Pengari, where he freed the last project of the sector, same start as Skitalica (7c+) and then going to the right. He named it Mirna (after the river Mirna which has shaped this canyon) and graded it 8a+. Respect! In the same climbing area, in sector Plaža - The beach Jurij Ravnik freed Betka Galičič's master piece Dvogibka (7a),a 25 meters long slab. Many new routes in Istria all the time! :D Jurica Levatić and Jaka Šprah have...
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