Category Archives: news

The climbing season is here!

@photo from last weeks Barcolana, a historic sailing international race taking place every year in the Gulf of Tieste The season for climbing in Istria finally arrived. Last week people from all over the globe were climbing in the summer crag of Baratro, on the sunny winter crags of Napoleonica, hardcore Mišja peč and Osp, as well in Črni kal, not to mention the south faces of Buzet like Kompanj, Buzetski kanjon, Istarske toplice or even Pandora, Medveja and so on. Some of the most spectacular ascents from the past week: Andrea Padoan crushed his second 8c, Il sultano nero in Baratro, after last year’s disappointment in a route when he broke the third hold in this long endurance test piece and then finished on its top. This year he returned after the success in his first 8c, Il sicario sanguinario some weeks ago and...
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Rocktober

on photo Urša Florjančič climbing Happy mix (8a) in Skedenj Rocktober started perfectly, temps dropped down, conditions arrived and climbers showed up all around, that is why also many hard climbs got crushed. Hmmm…where to start? Restless Franci Jensterle aka Frenk first broke a crucial hold in the second part of Working class hero (8b+) in the big cave of Osp, but later still redpointed the route without it and made a hard 8b+ even harder. :) Upgrade? Secret crag Skedenj got prime, so Urša Florjančič fired the crimpy Happy mix (8a). Her boyfriend Boštjan Weingerl was also successful in Underground doesn't stop (8c), a fifteen meters horizontal extension with good holds and many long dynamic moves after the first bouldery part of El trabajo del borracho (8b+), which was done by Jakob Bizjak as well. In Buzetski kanjon Goran Matika made another first ascent, this time in sector Đoser redpointed the hardest route over there, fingery testpiece...
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Uroš Brecelj climbs Vizija 8c in Mišja peč

Uroš Brecelj in Vizija (8c) @ photo by Luka Tambača This Sunday strongman Uroš Brecelj clipped the chains of his first 8c, the crimpy Vizija in the central part of Mišja peč. 30-meters long Vizija was bolted and first ascended by Luka Zazvonil back in 2004, later a hold broke in the first hard part and made it even more solid for the grade. It is divided in first short slightly overhanging hard part on small holds with poor feet and followed by beautiful endurance climbing on tufas for another 20 meters. Congrats, Uroš! In the big cave of Osp Luka Pavlovčič redpointed one of the most marathon routes ever, the 55 meters long beauty called Bitka s stalaktiti (8b). The weather forecast for the next days looks promissing, but for the weekend maybe some autumn rain again....
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FA Grinta 8c in Buzetski kanjon by Gogo

Gogo in Grinta @ Photo by Enna Peroš Goran Matika aka Gogo from Pazin made a first ascent of a new route now with the name Grinta and a proposed grade of 8c in the sector Slap in Buzetski kanjon. Grinta was bolted years ago by Čedomir Čekič Čedo and is the first route to the right of Infamous bastards (8b+). Gogo spent three seasons trying this 25 meters long and pretty steep proyect, characterized by power endurance climbing and many heel hooks, to finally clip it's chain. For sure this is the new the hardest route of Buzetski kanjon and Gogo's personal best. Bravo Gogo, hard work payed off! In the overhanging Skedenj Boštjan Weingerl redpointed El trabajo del borracho (8b+), Luka Zazvonil did the morphological Vision (8b) and Štefan Wraber fired Onda anomala (8b). In another secret crag called Baratro Luca Bacer climbed the combination of three routes called Trilogy with the grade of 8b. Conditions made it...
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Sendtember in Istria

Sendtember in Istria finally arrived! The conditions in summer climbing areas like Baratro and Skedenj got prime, also lower temps made it possible to climb again in the famous Osp and Mišja peč, plus in all the other climbing areas. Logically, with good conditons, many hard redpoints and personal records appear. Luca Bacer from Trieste gave himself best possible birthday present by redpointing his hardest route up to date, Bimba Yena (8c/c+) in Baratro. Happy 18th birthday, Luca! As well in Baratro another Italian Andrea Padoan crushed his first 8c, Il sicario sanguinario. In Skedenj Mojca Žerjav made her best performance ever by climbing Sex and candy, her first 8a+. Her boyfriend Uroš Brecelj clipped the chains of Onda anomala (8b) in the same crag. Over there also Rok Blagus redpointed La via di mezzo (8b+) and Jakob Bizjak did the morphological Vision (8b) and El trabajo del borracho (8b+). Respect boys and girls! Jernej Kruder returned from...
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Skedenj is the place to be

Almost all the latest hard-core climbing news from Istria in the last days come from the beautiful secret crag close to Sežana called Skedenj. Of course, after the whole partly dry summer the perfect conditions arrived in this spectacular cave, so also these achievements in compare to the shape of our climbers over there are no surprise at all. So what were the highlights of the last week? The hero of Skedenj this weekend was for sure Klemen Kejžar who onsighted Fight the Faida (8b), extremely steep route for about 25 meters with three hard boulders separated with »good« rests in a full roof, after that he also fired La via di mezzo (8b+) on his second go. Also Jakob Bizjak crushed La via di mezzo (8b+) and redpointed as well La Roulette (8b), which was climbed by Davide Gaeta and Uroš Brecelj as well. What a weekend? And here it still doesn't end… Žiga Sedej climbed Onda anomala (8b) over there...
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Katja Kadić redpoints Attila 8c/c+ in Baratro

Katja Kadić, member of Slovenian Bouldering Team, redpointed Attila (8c/c+) in Italian secret spot Baratro in just five tries. Attila is about 15 meters long, really steep on mostly artificial crimps and is a pure power endurance testpiece. This is far hardest redpoint for 21 years old Katja. To make a day perfect, she finished it with clipping the chains of other two 8a+'s: Dubbio finale and Dio non xe Furlan! What a day, what a performance! Impressive! Some interesting history about Attila here! Another Slovenian female climber is also back in the top shape. 49-years old Sabina Sovinc, second lady in Slovenian history to redpoint 8b back in the year 2000, mother of a wonderful son named Matic and a full time sports teacher in the high school spent whole summer climbing with her strong »husband« Franci Jensterle who also ticked Bimba Yena (8c/c+) couple of weeks ago. A couple of days ago Sabina...
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First 8b+ flash for Klemen Kejžar

Last week Klemen Kejžar flashed his first 8b+ ever, Supercanna or also named Il ritorno di Placcoman in Baratro. The route in the middle of the cave is around 20 to 25 meters long characterized by pure power endurance and is surprisingly one of the most natural routes of Baratro. Bravo Klemen! Besides he also climbed in his first try the »last addition« of Baratro, the route with the name Zooropa (8a), but he already knew the top part of the route so he couldn't really call it a proper onsight. In Skedenj Jakob Bizjak clipped the chains of »polemic« Onda anomala (8b), Žiga Debevec redpointed the super steep Fight the faida (8b) and Boštjan Weingerl succeeded in rarely done La roulette (8b). Also in Skedenj young girl Ema Stopar cruised through Happy mix (8a)! Temps are slowly falling down, so also the big cave of Osp is getting more and more attention in the last days. Small but...
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Hard ticks in secret Skedenj and Baratro

The perfect summer venues , that are secret because of the private property and small parking places, saw some hard ticks last week when the conditions were perfect for climbing. In Skedenj near Sežana, Matej Sova made the second repeat of recently broken Vision, now with the grade of 8b+ characterized by a hard morphological boulder at the start passing the horizontal roof. Kadja Kadič climbed Happy mix (8a), which was the same day flashed by Žiga Debevec who before that also redpointed Onda anomala (8b). Another female, this time Saša Vidmar, clipped the chains of a beautiful crimpy endurance testpiece called Sex and candy (8a+). Couple of kilometres away, on the other side of the border in another secret spot called Baratro, Mojca Žerjav ticked Placcoman (8a). Wow people, amazing! Conditions are getting better and better, what can we expect more? Climb hard!...
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Attila climbed by Debevec and Kejžar

The hardest route climbed last week in Istria was for sure Attila (8c/c+), a very artificial 15 meters long, really steep power endurance testpiece of Baratro. It was climbed by Slovenians Klemen Kejžar and Žiga Debevec. For Žiga this was his first 8c or more. Great work guys! Another record was achieved in the big cave of Osp, where Peter Juvan succeeded in his first 8b ever by clipping the chains of the classic 55 meters long endurance route called Bitka s stalaktiti which in translation means »The fight with the stalactites«. Also in the big cave of Osp Jernej Kruder made the first ascent of a combination of the routes Helihopter v omaki (8b) and Osapska pošast (8c). After you reach the chain of Helihopter v omaki you continue to the left through the big system of tufas, many no hand rests to join Osapska pošast in the higher part and finish on its...
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