Brseč

Above the seaside cliffs of the eastern shores of Istria lies a picturesque and cute little village Brseč. Underneath are tall, sometimes overhanging walls, perfect for climbing. Sadly, a big problem here are approaches, those enemies and necessary evil for every sport climber. For climbing, the standout sector is Križ, while for uniqueness and wild factor you should visit Šip, which rises straight from the sea. Other sectors offer completely different climbing experience, with abseils for approach, sketchy belaying, sense of adventure,…

ACCESS
Brseč lies on the eastern coastal road between Plomin (which can be reached via Pazin or Labin) and Medveja/Opatija. You won‘t miss it for the aesthetic factor of the village alone, once you drive past. For sector Križ drive on from Brseč on the main road towards Rijeka. After 2 kilometers there will be an obvious viewing-rest spot on the right. Park and continue on foot on the road. When the railing ends, go down the stone wall on the right, between second and third saftey stone. From here the path is obvious, although quite steep and full of ropes and light climbing. The starting point for the other sectors is the parking in front of pizzeria in the village of Brseč.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°18’51.74”, E 14°24’19.19” for sector Križ
N 45°17’86.22”, E 14°23’45.87” for all the other sectors

WEATHER
This is a winter crag – season lasts from late autumn to the spring. In between you can try some DWS, so actually you can never miss. The rain wouldn‘t be a problem at some spots, but it will additionally spice up the access – something you don’t want in Brseč.

QUALITY
The equipment is quite new and mostly good, but it‘s used very scarcely. The distances between bolts can be 4-5 meters apart and the anchors may be ropes and slings. Apart from that, the sea water badly affects the metal. Be especially aware of that in sectors Šip, Belićev stup and Križ. Often you don‘t even see a bad bolt. Corrosion is like caries: when it‘s obvious, it‘s quite critical.

GEAR
Bring at least 70 meters of rope, or rather two of them, with 14-16 quickdraws. Scared climbers should even bring some more, along with slings, nuts and friends. For most sectors you need knowledge of abseil, rappel, re-tieing, belaying from a hanging belay, lowering, manoeuvering in the wall and similar. Bring an extra rope to sector Šip, to fix it for abseil and use again later. Watch out that it doesn‘t fall into sea when you abseil! Anchors aren‘t always easy to find and you may have to lower yourself over the wall edge.

ROUTES
The rock is, mildly put, fresh. Realistically looking it is painfully sharp, although full of holds (thus the lower grades). Most routes follow the easiest lines on the ledges, holes and cracks, while holds vary from sharp edges to tufa. Sometimes the rock may crumble (like lower part of Belićev stup), but it‘s solid overall. Grab the holds firmly, sloppiness and slips may quickly cut you. Sector Križ is the most sport-climbingfriendly, approachable and nicely bolted, although some grades need to be corrected. If you‘re not too adventurous, this is the best place to go.

NOTES
The spaces under the wall and the approaches are very exposed, even dangerous and should be tackled with necessary calmness and seriousness. This is not a place to joke around! We advise against going here to anyone less experienced or easily frightened, and even less to the beginners and kids. Despite the wild and adventurous character of the crag this is still a nicely equipped crag and the Austrian divers/climbers Ingo Schalk, Gerald Wagner, Martin Sprenger, Gerhard Grabner, Hans Rust and Martin Schitter deserve all the praise for their vision.

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Belićev stup
Goldfinger 6b+ 30 m
Octopussy 6a+ 35 m
Dr. No 6a+ 40 m
Casino Royale 6b+ 40 m
Moonraker 6a 32 m
B – Belićeva stijena
The Ivy Plot 6b 25 m
Kitten in the need 6c+ 25 m
Wespennest 6b+ 30 m
C – Podgrad
Meister Horich 5b 45 m
Diver in Danger 7a 50 m
Flying Dutchman 6a+ 55 m
P ? 25 m
Crimson Hawk 6c+ 50 m
111 6c 50 m
Wanderratz 6a 50 m
Ratroof 6b+ 50 m
Once upon a time 6a 50 m
Feige/Sau 6c+ 50 m
Hope 6c 50 m
Mullmania 6c 30 m
D – Šip
Last Sugar 6c 55 m
White Pepper 6c+ 60 m
Salty Dog 6a 60 m
Medusa 6a 55 m
Old Friendship 6b 50 m
Ship by Šip 6b+ 50 m
Renata 6a+ 50 m
Malvasia 5c 45 m
Polyphem 6b 35 m
Outis (Nobody) 6b 15 m
Aiolos 6b+ 35 m
E – Križ
Viper left 6c+ 35 m
Viper 6c+ 40 m
Hammer King 7c 25 m
Anima 7b+ 20 m
Schussler 7c+ 28 m
Schussler extension 8b 50 m
Mirko Borič 6c 30 m
Mirko Borič extension 7b 50 m
Mathilde 6b+ 17 m
Mathilde extension 7b 30 m
Mathilde 2nd extension 7c+ 50 m
Cut 6a 15 m
Cut extension 7a+ 30 m
Cut 2nd extension 7b+ 50 m
Made in Austria 7b+ 11 m
Lieblingsmensch Irma 7b+ 30 m
Izgubljeni dječaci 6c+ 30 m
Izgubljeni dječaci extension 7b 50 m
Jarilo 6b+ 30 m
Jarilo extension 7b 45 m
Fishermans friend 6c+ 35 m
Fishermans friend extension 7a 50 m
No name 7b 50 m
P ? 40 m
P ? 40 m
P ? 25 m
Point break 6b+ 17 m
Point break extension 7b 40 m
Bodhi 7c 38 m
Home run 6c 35 m