Portafortuna

Nice holiday crag that will fullfil all your desires of sea adventures and some recreational climbing in between. Portafortuna is a beautiful climbing area close to Baška on the island Krk. It is characterized by sharp holds on compact limestone in the shade in the afternoon and always with some fresh wind breeze under the wall. Weather conditions and vicinity of the beautiful Adriatic sea makes it one of the best climbing areas in the region for the summer.

 

ACCESS
While driving on island Krk from Punat towards Baška in one moment you will reach the pass where the beautiful view on Baška gloriously opens. Just couple of hundred meters below the pass in direction Baška you will see on your left abandoned night club “discoteka”. Park on the right side of the road close to the water pond. From parking take the path going right upwards, opening and always closing sheep fences to reach high up a rocky barrier on the slope after cca 20 minutes walk.

PARKING GPS
N 45°1’17”, E 14°40’59”

WEATHER
Ideal periods are spring and autumn (from April to October). The walls exposure is North-East, East and South-East. In high summer it is also possible to climb in the afternoon, when almost all the routes are in the shade and some wind breeze is always present. Winter climbing is possible only in the morning in full sun without any wind.

QUALITY
Routes are very friendly bolted mainly with INOX expansion bolts and top anchors.

GEAR
80 meter rope is recommended because most of the routes are longer than 30 meters. Also a set of 16 quickdraws will be well used.

ROUTES
Slabs and mainly vertical routes on sharp gray, white and some yellow limestone as well. Holds vary from mainly crimps to some pockets, sloppers and cracks.

NOTES
Take special care if sheeps are above the walls. Sometimes they tend to throw stones over the edge, so in that case better avoid that sector for that day.

ROUTES (from left to right):

Sector A/I
La Roux 7b 13 m
La Roux direct 8a 13 m
Krk 6b+ 13 m
Psychastenia 6c 13 m
Petit beure 6a 13 m
Giant stars 5b 15 m
Zwergenleiter 5b 15 m
Trbuh 6a+ 13 m
Bodulska 5a 12 m
Ajkulica 7a+ 12 m
Global warming 6b 15 m
Kyoto procol 6b+ 15 m
Sector A/II
Sudden death 6b 12 m
US Bushman 5c 24 m
Wings for life 5c 27 m
Gipsy life 6a+ 20 m
Fak4Life 6b+ 20 m
Forum Alpin 5b 20 m
Sector A/III
Iva Piva 6b+ 20 m
Iva Piva extension 6b+ 40 m
Pika poka 6b+ 29 m
Fire walker 6c 29 m
Outsider 7a+ 29 m
Miss Baške 7a+ 28 m
Joke about summer 6c 30 m
Upornik z razlogom 7b 30 m
Trlica 7b+ 30 m
Trlica in sinica 7b 30 m
Knjiga o bambusu 7b+ 30 m
Hamsterdam 7c 30 m
Cojones 7b 30 m
Dar mar 7b 30 m
Zag 7a+ 30 m
Zig zag 6c+ 30 m
Forever young 6a 33 m
Flower power 6c 33 m
Pustolovec Rajd 6c 25 m
Metulji so srečni 5c 30 m
Eierbar 5c 30 m
Pravljica za puding 5a 25 m
Simpel platka 4b 25 m
Needles and pins 6a 20 m
Needles and pins direct 7c 20 m
Sector A/IV
Botanist 4c 25 m
Vulture 5a 25 m
Moja prva 4a 27 m
Maratonček 4b 30 m
Yellow line 4a 25 m
Bašćanska direkt 4a 30 m
Bašćanska ploča 4b 30 m
Jugo nije za dugo 4c 24 m
People in motion 5c 20 m
Pirun 5b 15 m
Batomaljac 5a 15 m
8848 5b 18 m
Kratka slatka 5b 14 m
Lea 5b 14 m
Double 5b 15 m
Trouble 5b 15 m
12 years later 5c 20 m
Olujna bura 5b 20 m
Piranha 5c 22 m
HGB 5c 20 m
Missing 5c 20 m
Mambo no.5 6a 20 m
Reif fur die Insel 5b 20 m
No.5 5b 20 m
Green seas 4c 20 m
Wapplerbauch 5c 20 m
Cool runnings 4c 20 m