Costiera is full of old patina – there are some rusty bolts, strange anchors and routes that cross each other and zigzag on the wall, and often earn their grade in a nasty or polished crux. But Costiera redeems itself with its scenic location above the sea (which you can reach via a steep path), with tranquility and a little sense of adventure. This is not a big climbing anthill, although it offers many routes of all grades, among which many beauties are hidden.
Costiera lies beside the coastal road between Trieste and Sistiana. You get there the easiest by following the motorway A4, where you take the exit Sistiana and stay on the left side (sign for Costiera). Driving along the road above the coast you will get to a tunnel with a scenic spot and parking – a couple of cars fit on both sides of the tunnel. For the new sector cross the railing at the end of the rest spot and descend on a steep way down. For the old sector cross the railing on the other side of the tunnel and follow the ferrata towards the wall (look at the photo for the spot where you go down).
N 45°74’38.22”, E 13°66’57.77”
Costiera is a winter crag. The closeness of the sea can bring freshness, which is nice in spring or autumn, when a hot sunny day can be uncomfortable. In summer it is simply too hot, so instead of going to the crag, continue towards the sea and save yourself a heart attack. Mind the sea urchins.
The rock is solid. But it can be polished. The bolts are generally nice, even re-equipped recently, though there are some old ones. There are some comfortable plateaus at the base, but the approach itself is not advisable for toddlers and feeble people. Some beginnings of routes can be a bit psychotic.
Most routes are short and the long ones have usually an anchor in the middle. So if you can re-tie your knot, you should be fine with a shorter rope, but take at least 14 quickdraws.
Be a little conservative and try a grade or two below your level – at least at the beginning. The routes are mostly vertical with an occasional overhang, often polished and at times quite cruxy – either they had really hard grades back then or the ravages of time made them harder. The cruxes are a combo of technical climbing and power, with a few tufas to spice things up.
Don‘t leave valuables in the car – there have been some reported thefts. And watch out when you drive back to the road.
ROUTES (from left ot right):
|A – Left part|
|Papillon extension||6b+||20 m|
|Wovie Zowie||7b+||20 m|
|Armadillo brillo||6b||40 m|
|Meglio di niente||7c||18 m|
|La mela||6c||18 m|
|Santa Esmeralda||8a||18 m|
|Pensiero positivo||7c||20 m|
|Romantico scoglio||6b+||40 m|
|Variante Aldin||6b+||20 m|
|Macedonia extension||7b||40 m|
|C’est plus facile||7a||20 m|
|Mister Fantasy||7b+||15 m|
|Settimo cielo||6c+||25 m|
|Settimo cielo extension||7a+||30 m|
|Rambo extension||7c||30 m|
|Piperita Patty||6c+||20 m|
|Piperita Patty extension||7a+||27 m|
|Mago mago||6c||27 m|
|Kren caramel||7a||25 m|
|House party||7c+||20 m|
|Jon Jon||6c+||20 m|
|Burattino pazzo||6b||20 m|
|Topo Gigio||5c||25 m|
|Gabriella tutta panna||6a||25 m|
|B – Right part|
|Hass Fidanken||6c||18 m|
|Hass Fidanken extension||7a||40 m|
|Coca Cola kid||7c||15 m|
|Pallido inverno||7b||15 m|
|Ultimo tango||P||35 m|
|Bala Lugosi||6c+||25 m|
|Bala Lugosi extension||7a+||35 m|
|Faccia a faccia con se stessi||7b+||12 m|
|Pasticcini extension||7a+||40 m|
|Gratton pour homme||P||13 m|
|Comici extension||6b||40 m|
|Variante centrale||6b||15 m|
|C – Costiera nuova|
|Elisir d’equilibrio||7a||25 m|
|Il custode della terra||6b||18 m|
|Placca del Lorenzo||7b||25 m|
|Per intenditori||7a||25 m|
|Altri tempi||5c||23 m|