Costiera

Costiera is full of old patina – there are some rusty bolts, strange anchors and routes that cross each other and zigzag on the wall, and often earn their grade in a nasty or polished crux. But Costiera redeems itself with its scenic location above the sea (which you can reach via a steep path), with tranquility and a little sense of adventure. This is not a big climbing anthill, although it offers many routes of all grades, among which many beauties are hidden.

 

ACCESS
Costiera lies beside the coastal road between Trieste and Sistiana. You get there the easiest by following the motorway A4, where you take the exit Sistiana and stay on the left side (sign for Costiera). Driving along the road above the coast you will get to a tunnel with a scenic spot and parking – a couple of cars fit on both sides of the tunnel. For the new sector cross the railing at the end of the rest spot and descend on a steep way down. For the old sector cross the railing on the other side of the tunnel and follow the ferrata towards the wall (look at the photo for the spot where you go down).


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PARKING GPS
N 45°74’38.22”, E 13°66’57.77”

WEATHER
Costiera is a winter crag. The closeness of the sea can bring freshness, which is nice in spring or autumn, when a hot sunny day can be uncomfortable. In summer it is simply too hot, so instead of going to the crag, continue towards the sea and save yourself a heart attack. Mind the sea urchins.

QUALITY
The rock is solid. But it can be polished. The bolts are generally nice, even re-equipped recently, though there are some old ones. There are some comfortable plateaus at the base, but the approach itself is not advisable for toddlers and feeble people. Some beginnings of routes can be a bit psychotic.

GEAR
Most routes are short and the long ones have usually an anchor in the middle. So if you can re-tie your knot, you should be fine with a shorter rope, but take at least 14 quickdraws.

ROUTES
Be a little conservative and try a grade or two below your level – at least at the beginning. The routes are mostly vertical with an occasional overhang, often polished and at times quite cruxy – either they had really hard grades back then or the ravages of time made them harder. The cruxes are a combo of technical climbing and power, with a few tufas to spice things up.

NOTES
Don‘t leave valuables in the car – there have been some reported thefts. And watch out when you drive back to the road.

ROUTES (from left ot right):

A – Left part
Papillon 5b 17 m
Papillon extension 6b+ 20 m
Tropical 7c 20 m
Wovie Zowie 7b+ 20 m
Armadillo brillo 6b 40 m
Jango 6c 20 m
Meglio di niente 7c 18 m
Shadow 7b 18 m
La mela 6c 18 m
Santa Esmeralda 8a 18 m
Cocomo 8a 18 m
Pensiero positivo 7c 20 m
Romantico scoglio 6b+ 40 m
Variante Aldin 6b+ 20 m
Macedonia 4c 16 m
Macedonia extension 7b 40 m
Liquerizia 6b+ 25 m
C’est plus facile 7a 20 m
Mister Fantasy 7b+ 15 m
Gelati 6c 45 m
Settimo cielo 6c+ 25 m
Settimo cielo extension 7a+ 30 m
Rambo 7a+ 25 m
Rambo extension 7c 30 m
Kura 7c+ 27 m
Colibri 8a+ 20 m
Piperita Patty 6c+ 20 m
Piperita Patty extension 7a+ 27 m
Mago mago 6c 27 m
Kren caramel 7a 25 m
House party 7c+ 20 m
Jon Jon 6c+ 20 m
Burattino pazzo 6b 20 m
Topo Gigio 5c 25 m
Gabriella tutta panna 6a 25 m
B – Right part
Finferlucchere 5b 40 m
Survival 6b 25 m
Hass Fidanken 6c 18 m
Hass Fidanken extension 7a 40 m
Tramezzino 6c 20 m
Coca Cola kid 7c 15 m
Pallido inverno 7b 15 m
Exodus 7b+ 35 m
Ultimo tango P 35 m
Bala Lugosi 6c+ 25 m
Bala Lugosi extension 7a+ 35 m
Minami 7b 22 m
Doris 8a 35 m
Faccia a faccia con se stessi 7b+ 12 m
Pasticcini 6b 30 m
Pasticcini extension 7a+ 40 m
Gratton pour homme P 13 m
Comici 6a 25 m
Comici extension 6b 40 m
Variante centrale 6b 15 m
C – Costiera nuova
? 6a 10 m
? 5c 10 m
L’ingegner 5c+ 25 m
Elisir d’equilibrio 7a 25 m
? 6a 12 m
Il custode della terra 6b 18 m
Placca del Lorenzo 7b 25 m
Per intenditori 7a 25 m
Altri tempi 5c 23 m
Xocen 5b 23 m