Doberdo

Even though it lies a little further from Trieste, Doberdo is just too cute to be skipped. The crag is below the lookout Casa Cadorna, which was built in the time of the Isonzo front. It is an exemplary bolted place, with beautiful, continuous routes and a great view on the natural reserve of the Doberdo lake. On a nice day it may be quite crowded.

 

 

ACCESS
If you are coming from Trieste, follow the local road through Duino and turn right to SS55 towards Gorizia (when you see a statue of two wolves on your left). Drive on this road through Iamiano and continue on the road surrounded with cypresses. Be mindful on a left turn for Doberdo. Turn here and wait for a cluster of signs and a small path uphill on the right. Park here on the left side of the road and start pumping up the hill. The main sector is under the shack, which is peeking out of the forest, but some short routes lie behind the building among the war tunnels. The road SS55 takes you to Gorizia, while the local road takes you to Doberdo.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°50’06.6”, E 13°33’30.3”

WEATHER
Exposition to the south means that summer is not an option. The base is shaded nicely by trees and if it’s not raining, you can climb here from autumn to spring.

ROUTES
The routes are up to 20 meters long and generously bolted, with top notch anchors. The rock is solid, but it can crumble at places. The routes are continuous and vertical with the occasional bulge. Climbing requires endurance, while the harder routes tend to be more technical. Most routes are polished, but it is surprisingly not too troubling. Beginners will enjoy it here the most, especially if they want to learn lead climbing.

NOTES
Take time for a trip: ascend Gradina from Doberdo (with a nice weekend museum), or stroll around in the natural reserve. Maybe you can spot a wild cat or golden jackal, horned viper or a rare bird.

ROUTES (from left to right):

La fessura 4a 19 m
Lo spigolo 6a 19 m
La bianca 5a 19 m
Bianchetta 5a 17 m
Via facile 3b 15 m
Diedrino 4a 16 m
Ola 6a 20 m
Gialla 5a 20 m
Variante gialla 5b 20 m
Ali 6c+ 10 m
La lama 5a 20 m
Diedro grigio 4a 20 m
Diedro giallo 3b 20 m
Mamma mia 7a 20 m
TNT 7b 20 m
Torione totale 7c 20 m
Va beh! 6a 20 m
Bubu 6a 20 m
Le nicchie 5a 20 m
Tettuccio 5c 18 m
Samoborke 7a 15 m
Mah! 7c+ 19 m
Salsa 6b 19 m
Salsa boulder 6a+ 6 m
Via nuova 4a 18 m
Rischio 6a 16 m
Abo 6a+ 14 m
Sara 7b 9 m
Yoghi 6b 9 m
Teran 5a 9 m
La placca 6b 8 m
Refosco 5a 7 m
Hops! 6a+ 7 m
Patata 5a 7 m
Placca drio la casa 4a 7 m
La caverna 6b 7 m
Puma 3b 15 m
Boris 6c 15 m
Cora 6b 15 m
Via dell’albero 4a 15 m
Variante 3b 15 m
Fessura sconta 5a 15 m
Lunga 6a 15 m
Lamon 6a 15 m
Il ritorno di Sara 8a 15 m
Diedro nero 4a 15 m
Spigolo del diedro 4a 15 m