Sistiana

The crag could hardly be better situated – on a lawn right beside the sea. Sadly the superlatives start to end here. The selection of routes is not bad for beginners, if they like vertical walls, that are at times bolted far apart. The biggest drawback is a water purifying plant directly below the wall. That makes the quality of your trip here depend on the direction of the wind. But the rock wall is high and wide and even if you are a bit picky, you can find enough routes. If the equipping of new routes continues, Sistiana may well have a nice future ahead.

ACCESS
Take the motorway A4 and leave it at Sistiana exit (with another right turn shortly after). At the intersection go right and drive straight through the town. After a right bend be mindful for a left turn marked Sistiana Mare (go sharp left). The winding road will get you to a parking in the marina. In summer you can park your car below the wall for a fee. Then take a short stroll along the beach to the crag. The newer sectors are dotted on the right side and are pretty obvious.


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PARKING GPS:
N 45°46’14.7”, E 13°37’50.6”

WEATHER
This is a crag for a nice sunny day – but not too sunny, or else you will slide down the vertical rock. When the temperatures get higher, you can try your luck in the afternoon shade . If it rains stay inside and drink your coffee. But the wall dries up fast.

QUALITY
The rock was always considered extremely solid, but then recently a big chunk broke off, destroying the whole first route. The rest is still considered OK, but you never know… The bolts are a different story – they vary from new, freshly re-bolted to old and rusty chunks of metal. The walls around the main sector are full of old routes, many of which are aid climbs. The base of the crag is perfect, especially if your nose is stuffed up.

GEAR
Some routes are laughably short while others are hellishly long – but you can re-tie in most of them in the middle (if you run out of rope). The quickdraws can be far apart, but still take at least 12 for the long routes.

ROUTES
Beginners are wise to take an experienced co-climber, who can handle the vertical wall and is not scared easily. Otherwise, sharpen your rock shoes and prepare to climb vertical technical pieces. Some slabby routes, are even without holds at times. You need multipitch knowledge to climb newer routes, that criss cross the wall. But they are fresh and nicely bolted.

NOTES
Negative remarks from the intro aside, it has to be said, that Sistiana is lately very lively, fueled by the enthusiasm of climbers from Monfalcone.

ROUTES (from left to right):

Lorenzo e Monica 5a+ 19 m
Comici sx 5b+ 20 m
Comici sx extension 5c 37 m
Amici miei 6a 18 m
Comici dx 6a 20 m
Non ti scordar da me 6b 20 m
Via del pino 4b 25 m
Via del pino extension 4c 50 m
Ventura 5c 25 m
Nei colori di giorno 5a+ 45 m
Occhi azzurri 6a 37 m
Panza dell’elefante 5b 32 m
Via di sinistra 4a 20 m
Bretella 6c 30 m
Panza dell’elefante 5c+ 20 m
Via di destra 5a 12 m
Messenio 6c+ 32 m
Aqua chiara 6b+ 20 m
Stelle marine 6a 16 m
Falso movimento 7b+ 23 m
Rigole 5a 15 m
Rigole extension 5a+ 27 m
Libera P 23 m
Olivoli 6b 35 m
Arupacupa 5b 35 m
Aria nuova 5c 30 m
Aria nuova extension 6b 35 m
Placcometro 5b+ 15 m
A tutta birra 5a 20 m
Succo e polpa 5b+ 20 m
Serena 5b 20 m
Rolling stones 6a 30 m
Diedro 3 20 m
Spigolo 6c 20 m
Pesce d’aprile 7a 20 m
Classica 5a+ 20 m
Nel blu 6b+ 20 m
Questione di feeling 6a 20 m
Graziella 5a 30 m
Silvia 5b 30 m
Kabuk 5c 40 m
La spaccatura 6a+ 35 m
Kalman 6a 20 m
Kalman extension 6a+ 35 m