Sector Behind the village and sector Babna (The Balcony)

An imposing crag directly above the picturesque village with quality routes of all grades good for a couple of years of climbing – what more could you ask for? Banje (also called Behind the village) is a playground for technical climbers with vertical routes, which are surrounded on both sides by overhangs. Babna (also called The Balcony) is considered the most popular crag in the area, being just a bit harder than Črni Kal and easier than Mišja peč, with long routes on vertical and slightly overhanging walls.

 

ACCESS
In the last few years a suitable parking space is always a pressing issue for the climbing community who can‘t find a common ground with the villagers. The situation changes all the time, but it is always forbidden to park in the village or on side driveways. Park in the Mišja peč parking space or ask in camp Vovk for alternatives. Otherwise the approach is simple: use one of the two paths uphill through the village and you will soon reach the first crag (turn right and up upon reaching the church). For Babna the path extends onwards and uphill. Use only clear, official paths.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°33’50.1”, E 13°51’46.6”

WEATHER
Ideal periods are spring and autumn and also winter (if the temperatures hold above 10º C and the wind isn‘t too crazy). In summer it quickly becomes too hot, but you can catch some climbing in Banje. You can do some climbing even in light rain – but if it gets worse, run away to neighbouring Mišja peč. After the rain the wall dries quickly, except for the tufa.

QUALITY
Osp is very well maintained. The bolts are new and bolted in a friendly fashion. There are anchors with carabiners almost everywhere. The quality of the rock is also great – but be careful while climbing longer routes on the right side of Babna, where an occasional hold may break off. Sometimes a loose rock may be launched on the climbers by naughty animals above the wall. The comfort under the wall is generally excellent, even for children – if they manage to walk all the way up.

GEAR
The standard gear is adequate. Still, be aware of the route lengths – sometimes even an 80 m rope is a bit short. You need almost 20 QDs for longer routes.

ROUTES
Banje is characterized by vertical routes of middle grades and a bit harder routes over the bulges with explicit cruxes. Babna is more diverse and offers a lot of joy for complete beginners in vertical routes on sharp holds, requiring good footwork. Harder routes in 7s become slightly overhanging, long, technical endurance pieces, and later also the power comes into play. Around 8s the routes start to dwindle. There are also some (average) multipitches. Old routes can be very polished and many are full of artificially chiped holds.

TRIVIA
In 1988 Osp hosted the famous state championship of Yugoslavia – though one of many it made quite a splash, and though it was dubbed for the “natural“ wall, all the routes of that time are artificially chipped – like Paris-Dakar, Ženski četrtfinale 88, Olympic,… After three days the winners were Vili Guček and Simona Škarja.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

osp kamp_crPri Vovku, Osp 20, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenija

+386 (0)5 659 06 00, +386 (0)40 167 787, [email protected]www.kmetija-vovk-osp.si

Under the Karst edge in the Osp valley lies the village of Osp, world famous for its karst collapse. Tourist farm Vovk provides space for camping (camp) and typical local food (grilled dishes, seasonal dishes, side dishes: potatoes, cabbage, turnips, prosciutto cold cuts, pancetta, pork neck salami) and country wines. The campsite is open all year round and is suitable for families who appreciate peace and intact nature.

SLEEP we had experienced…

ocizla_crHostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

 

Rooms HrpeljeRooms Hrpelje, Reška cesta 43, Hrpelje, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 40 874 475; [email protected]www.rooms-hrpelje.si

Rooms Hrpelje are located in a new building in Hrpelje, really close to climber’s paradise of Mišja peč, Osp, Črni kal,… Rooms Hrpelje offer private rooms with a private bathroom for 2,3 or 4 persons, common kitchen, parking place, free wi-fi and TV. In the same building complex, there is a small market and a restaurant where you can buy or order your breakfast in advance, respectively.

 

NOTES
Carefully read the climbers’ code of etiquette, and follow it everywhere! Apart from that the Osp area is especially sensitive. Do not provoke locals with unsuitable parking or behaviour, stealing fruit, leaving trash and doing anything that you wouldn‘t tolerate from others on your own garden.

ROUTES (from left to right)

A – Sector Behind the village AKA Banje
Osapski pajek 8c 18 m
Matičkov svet 8b 18 m
Osapska mumija 8b 18 m
Karies 8a+ 18 m
Gronolom 8a 19 m
Šamanski prehod 7c 21 m
Amazonka 6b 21 m
Ženska finalna 88 6b 18 m
Indijanka 6a+ 18 m
The Long Run 7a 20 m
Paris – Dakar 7c 20 m
Pariški vrt 7b 20 m
The Garden 7c+ 20 m
Mlado vino 7b 20 m
Supersok 7c 23 m
Superhik 6c+ 35 m
Varianta Superhik 6c+ 32 m
Varianta Poljanski biser 6c+ 32 m
Poljanski biser 7a+ 32 m
Uparjalnik 7c 32 m
Super Elio 7a+ 27 m
Super Emil 6c 27 m
Superluknja 6a 25 m
Super Elica 6a+ 25 m
Tačko 6c 25 m
Le mavrica 7b 26 m
Domana 7c+ 15 m
Virus 7c 15 m
Jebiga 6b+ 25 m
Skriti zaklad (1.part) 7b+ 25 m
Skriti zaklad (to the top) 7b+ 37 m
Super beta 7a 26 m
Banje 7b+ 33 m
Gad 8a 19 m
Osapska 7c 35 m
Kalifornija 7c 22 m
Kranjski Janez 7c 35 m
Polnočni kavboj 7c 20 m
Galeb 7b 30 m
Jonathan Livingstone 7a 19 m
JonaGold 7c 23 m
Poročna noč 7c 23 m
Zakonska kriza 7c 23 m
Festivalska 7c 20 m
Branko 7b+ 20 m
Brankova kriza 7b+ 20 m
Mibranko 6c+ 20 m
Miklavž 7a+ 18 m
Božiček 6c+ 18 m
Alenka L.T. 6b+ 14 m
Dedek Mraz 6c 18 m
B – Sector The Balcony AKA Babna
Pišta, Feri, Lajči 4a 16 m
Ledika 4a 16 m
Mufta 4b 15 m
Bograč 5a 18 m
Gibanica 4c 18 m
Taca muca 6b+ 20 m
Caprice 7a+ 23 m
Sapramiška 7b 21 m
Puzza di Cipolla 7b 21 m
Mai una gioia 7b+ 25 m
Fantastic Voyage 8a+ 25 m
Mosquitos wall 7b+ 19 m
Črna gradnja 8a 23 m
Buena suerte 7b+ 19 m
Idealist 7a+ 19 m
Jebena zima 7b 35 m
Trio Fantasticus 1.part 6c+ 20 m
Trio Fantasticus 7a 34 m
Leva bunkica 6c 16 m
Desna bunkica 6b+ 16 m
Senza corrente 7c+ 15 m
Hrenovnjača 6b+ 12 m
Bohomurček 6b 12 m
Ospomaniak 1.part 6c+ 16 m
Ospomaniak 7a 21 m
El Garbo 7a+ 16 m
Vstopite in se veselite 6b+ 10 m
Grofice 6b+ 10 m
Tantalove muke 7a 35 m
Rutka 4b+ 30 m
Kameleon 6c+ 35 m
Daleč stran je sodni dan 7b 34 m
Si puo fare 7b+ 35 m
Eolo 7c 30 m
Eolo (to the top) 7c+ 35 m
Fragile 1.part 7b+ 25 m
Fragile (to the top) 7c 35 m
Sončni dnevi 7b 21 m
Rainy days 7b 21 m
Ko bo padal dež 7c+ 35 m
Frenki boy 7c+ 35 m
Šok terapija 7b 16 m
Joint 7b 35 m
Demolition party 7a+ (6c, 7a) 35 m
Češpljevi cmoki 6c+ 19 m
RKC 8a 23 m
Veper lady 8b 25 m
Martinova gos 8a+ 25 m
Zadnja skušnjava 8a 23 m
Vegas 7 8a+ 23 m
Brancin 8a 23 m
Delirium tremens 7b 30 m
Maudit 7a+ (7a, 7a+) 43 m
Zmedeni in zadeti 6b+ 15 m
Pretty lady 6c+ 19 m
Proletarska 7b 38 m
Pretty baby 6b+ (6a+, 6b+, 6a) 50 m
El diablo 7a 20 m
Črna ovca 6c 13 m
Don Nino 6c 35 m
Dolgotacko 6c 27 m
Jaslice 6c+ 38 m
Olympic 7a 28 m
Derniere surprise 6c (6b+, 6c) 42 m
Le tapis volant 6b+ (6b+, 6a) 42 m
Belle epoque 6a+ 20 m
Ženski četrtfinale 88 6a 21 m
Murphyjev zakon 6c+ 16 m
Mirage 6c (6a, 6c) 42 m
Sobotna priloga 6b+ (6a+, 6b+) 42 m
Chat noire 6b 24 m
Hard rain 6b+ (6b+, 6b+) 45 m
Prišlek 6b+ 45 m
Tormiento 6c 22 m
Tarantela 6c+ (6b+, 6c+) 40 m
Minister za zmedo 6b+ 37 m
Navihanke 6c 15 m
Mr.Hilti 6b+ 20 m
New look 6b 20 m
Potion magique 6b 19 m
Tora bora 6c+ 16 m
Just married 6b+ 20 m
No siesta 6b 20 m
Le plasir de la soir 6a+ 23 m
Take it easy 6c 33 m
Steber jutranje zvezde 6c+ (6b+, 6c+, 6c) 65 m
Killing me softly 1. part 6a+ 25 m
Killing me softly 7a+ 37 m
Killing me hardly 7a+ 37 m
Sea snake 7a+ 37 m
Moon safari 7b 37 m
Solitudine 6b+ (5c, 6b+) 40 m
Love story 5c 24 m
Ledeno vino 6a 25 m
Vik in krik 6a+ 23 m
Piccola peste 6b (6a, 5c, 4b, 6b, 6a+) 85 m
Ledena sveča 6a 25 m
Tiare Tipanie 5a 20 m
Maeva 4b 20 m
Čebelica Maja 3 15 m
Fetia ura 7c+ 30 m
Črni biser 7c 30 m
Sužnji vertikale 7a+ 30 m
Za oslovo senco 7a+ 26 m
Il castigo 6b+ 25 m
Epena 7a+ 26 m
A tout coeur 7a (6b, 6a, 7a) 65 m
Toute de force 7a 19 m
Severi ma giusti 6c 23 m
Dolores 6a+ 20 m
Čauko 6a 23 m
Il giardino dell aephiornis 6b (6a, 5b, 5b, 6b) 75 m
Rawhide 6b (6a+, 6b) 40 m