Raspadalica

Raspadalica

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Ah, Raspadalica… Basically it is a crag under the whole edge of Ćićarija, which is worth visiting for the view of Buzet and its surroundings alone. There are countless potential walls with good rock, and lately, old routes have been rebolted and some new ones added. Rebirth of Raspadalica is happening at the moment. Perfect winter sunny spot which is getting more and more attention from climbers.

ACCESS

It is best to drive to camp Raspadalica (either from Gornja Nugla or around via Počekaji) and approach the crags from the top. It is not advisable to traverse the hill under the sectors. The path winds along the edge of Ćićarija and paths down are sometimes hard to find. There is an nice path for trekkers from the train station to the edge. For sectors B and C descend on the steep hill between both walls. The approach to the C sector can be especially difficult. To the D sector leads a path that is a bit more difficult, right after the pines, where the edge of the cliff is less rocky and more overgrown. Access sector E by a steep, but nice path at a clearing between a group of trees and pines.

WEATHER

The crag is in the sun, which is good in the winter, when also the vegetation is least dense – in summer we can only wish you luck – the access would destroy even Bear Grylls – and if you survive this, you will die of a heart attack on the wall.

ROCK QUALITY

The rock, considering the name („Crumbledore“), is not so bad, but it is at times loose. The gear is new and protected by modern standards. The base of the crag is semi-comfortable, but not advisable for children.

ENVIROMENTAL NOTES

Walk carefully. In hot months the rocks are often occupied by horned vipers. Bring a stick and swing it before you as you walk. The snake will retreat on its own. On a nice day you will share the edge of the cliff with paragliders and hangliders.

Recommended accommodations

Apartments Roža

Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia

Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!

ROUTES (from left to right)

For a relaxing day in easy routes visit sector E. The routes are short, but nice, vertical and with good holds. In other sectors the climbing style can vary, but we leave it to more adventurous climbers.

A 70 meters long route and about 15 quickdraws will do it’s work.

Sector A – Cave
Leonidio news 8a+ 20m
? 7a+ ?
Sector B – Zmaj
United 6b+ 35m
Podgorka 6b 20m
Zmaj 6c 30m
Paraglider 6c 35m
Padobranac 6a+ 35m
Sector C – Izbavitelj
P ? 21m
P ? 21m
Sedam vrhova 7b+ 21m
Izbavitelj 6b+ 20m
Stella rossa 6c+ 20m
Grozni 6b+ 20m
Palac gore 6a+ 20m
Amotamo 6c 20m
Sveti Stjepan prvomučenik 7b+ 30m
Šok y vjeverica 7a 30m
Exuvia 7a 30m
Pepito 6b+ 27m
Kontrolirani nadgledani slobodni 6c+ 20m
Diplomac 7a 30m
Čučerčan 7a 30m
Raspafarian 7b 30m
First class 7a+ 30m
Bezimeni 7b+ 20m
Sector D
Frontera 6a 12m
Megane 6a 12m
Minijatura za dve sestre 6b+ 15m
Rijeka prvak 98/99 6a+ 15m
Jump 7a 15m
Sector E
Bebi pista 4c 7m
Čripnja 5b 8m
Aut put 6a 7m
Ortikarija 5c 20m
Presjednik Joža 5a 10m
Čimuki 5b 18m
Jutarnja rosa 5b 15m
Medovača 6a 15
Homus Balcanicus 6b+ 16m
Makinja 6a+ 15m
Prhut 6b 16m
Ribež 5c 20m
Sastavljavica 5c 10m
Raspadalica direkt 6a+ 15m
Drugi dan 6a 10m
Ilegalac 6b 10m
Bacci 6a+ 10m
Caro 5c 11m
Io 5c 12m
Prvi 5b 12m