Category Archives: news

Another 9a, Martin Krpan, by Jakub Konečny

Stefan Bednar Martin Krpan
Photo @ Stefan Bednar on the crux of Martin Krpan (9a), famous traverse in the right part of Mišja peč Just a couple of days after succeeding in Sanjski par extension (9a) and Talk is cheap (8c) both on the same day, young and strong World Cup competitor Jakub Konečny from Czech Republic redpointed as well Martin Krpan (9a), the hardest route in the right part of Mišja peč. More about the route and its name you can find out here. To finish the day in a proper style, he crushed as well super bouldery Ninja želva (8c), the extension of Tortuga (7b). In the big cave of Osp, Italian Matteo Menardi managed a second ascent of Revolucija (8c+) after the big stalactite (where you used to have a no hand rest) fell down from the top of this 25 meters long roof. After the break it was only climbed by Domen...
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Jakub Konečny climbs Sanjski par extension 9a

Tedis cave
Photo @ Tedis cave in the left part of Mišja peč, home to some of the Slovenias hardest sport climbing routes: Vicious circle (9a+/b), Sanjski par extension (9a), mythical Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+) and Talk is cheap (8c) Jakub Konečny, 19 years old climber from Czech Republic, had a really good qualifying round in the lead qualifications of World cup in Kranj this weekend, finishing in the second place after the home boy Domen Škofic. In semis he didn't had much luck and fell like many other climbers already in between 3rd and 4th quickdraw on an awkward mantel move. But the day after he spent in Mišja peč and used good climbing conditions (fresh & windy) and a great shape to clip the chains of Sanjski par extension (9a). Sanjski par extension is a 9a situated in the left part of Mišja peč, first ascended by Uroš Perko, back in...
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Sendtember in Istria

Martin Wagner Baratro
Photo @ Martin Wagner in La super Nera (8c) in Baratro Sendtember in Istria! With good climbing conditions also hard routes go down one by another. Yesterday, German Martin Wagner made a first ascent of a new combination in Baratro. He started in La Supercanna (8b+), did its hardest boulder in the middle of the route and before the rest he continued to the right into the endurance part of La peste nera (8b+). This way he established La Super Nera and proposed a grade of 8c. It is his first 8c, so he is not really sure about the grade and he is welcoming all the strong climbers to repeat it soon and confirm his grade proposal. In Buzetski kanjon, in summer sector Befana, Marko Kalčič from Pula climbed his hardest route to date, the beautiful Chica Latina (8b+). It is Klemen Bečans route from couple of years ago which was downgraded from 8c and repeated by Goran...
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Luka Biščak crushes Osapska pošast (8c) in Osp cave

Osp the cave
Luka Biščak crushes another 8c, this time Klemen Bečans endurance masterpiece named Osapska pošast in the big cave of Osp. Luka is not unknown rising star but more like living legend climbing hard routes in Istria for more than 20 years in a row. Huge congrats for that kind of motivation! In Glinščica or Val Rosandra Marko Zadravec, a climber from Ljubljana with also more than 20 years of climbing experiences redpointed his first 8b, Monta la capra, a short, steep and bouldery route first ascended by Rocco Romano a couple of years ago in sector Caprette above the village of Bagnoli. Gianfranco Dušič from Croatia climbed Chica latina (8b+) in Buzetski kanjon in the summer sector named Befana. In the same sector Jaka Šprah fired beautiful Lap dance (8b) on his second go, respectively. On the other side of Buzetski kanjon, Goran Matika made a first ascent of a new vertical route in...
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Climbing highlights from Baratro and Skedenj

Vera Masochismo 8b Barartro
Photo @ Vera Gussetti in Masochismo (8b) in Baratro Hmmm, where to start? After last week’s ascent of Masochismo (8b) in Baratro by Vera Gussetti, she didn't go on holidays, but came back and fired as well Violenza carnale (8a). In the same crag young Ajda Lovše clipped the chains of her first route in the 8th grade, Placcoman. On the boy’s side, Jaka Šprah succeeded in one of the rare ascents of Le Terme del Musico (8c) with a super crimpy and chipped as well hard start for first 3 – 4 bolts which can be passed by its easier natural variation producing »the classic« Il Musico (8b) which was done on his 3rd try by Jakob Bizjak couple of days ago, respectively. Maybe 20 or maximum 30 air miles from that crag exists Skedenj, another secret summer crag where Mitja Jereb smashed another 8b, this time super steep and athletic Fight the Faida. Thumbs up guys and girls, the season is only...
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New parking place in Mišja peč

parking Misja pec
Great news is coming from Osp, more specific from Mišja peč. After many years of struggling, changing the parking places, problems with the landowners, the climbers are getting a new modern parking place for about 50 cars just under the wall of Mišja peč. This is the same place where it used to be the first Mišja pečs parking place many years ago. Finally, the landowners, the Osp community, city of Koper with providing different documentations, project LIKE by financing, PZS (Slovene mountaineering organisation) and Slovene climbers united in Projekt O.S.P. joined their forces and found a new nice solution where to park the cars, not disturb the locals, walk on their private land and so on. Let's hope this will work! Considering climbing news, this weekend with lots of rain and strong NE wind the temps finally fell down and after this long summer heat created nice conditions for climbing. Vera Gussetti...
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Working class hero in Osp cave by Benjo

Osp the big cave
Photo @ the big cave of Osp The summer heat is fully on with the temps over 35 degrees Celsius almost every day and it looks like it will stay like this for at least another week or so. But some climbers just don't lose the motivation and they keep fighting also in these tremendous tropical conditions. A real working-class hero, one of the best orthopaedic surgeons in Slovenia, Benjamin Marjanovič – Benjo just crushed rarely repeated route in the big cave of Osp named Working class hero (8b+). This super steep route in the left part of the cave was bolted and first ascended by Italian Andrea Polo. It has a hard-crimpy crux in the first part and amazing endurance climbing in the second part with long reaches and amazing drop knees in the sea of tufas for about 35-40 meters. Recently many holds broke off on the first boulder and also some in the upper...
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Latest highlights of climbing in Istria

DWS
Klemen Bečan deep water soloing in Stoja cave, close to Pula @ photo by Anja Bečan The summer is fully on! Many climbers from the area went on holidays in search of new nice spots and cooler temps around Europe. Some went on the seaside, to relax on the beach and in between also to jump in our beloved crags and smash something hard. Matjaž Zorko managed the 4th ascent of Starec in morje (8c) in the scenic sector Krugi in Limski kanal. Then young Anej Batagelj onsighted his first 8a, crimpy Happy mix in the secret crag of Skedenj close to Sežana. In the same climbing area Guido de Sabbata ticked the powerful Onda anomala (8b). Croatian Luka Meštrović climbed his first 8b, the nice Lap dance in the summer sector named Befana in Buzetski kanjon. In Baratro, junior in Slovenia climbing team, Klemen Novak flashed the latest and possibly the hardest 8a over there, maybe even 8a+, named...
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New 8c FA in Skedenj by Gabriele Gorobey

Rototom
Gabriele Gorobey Sbisi made a FA of an extension of famous warm up route Rototom (7a) in secret cave Skedenj close to Sežana in Slovenia, now named Rototom Sun Splash with a proposed grade of 8c. Bolted by Stefano Varnerin couple of years ago and named after famous reggae festival in Osoppo, Italy. After the 7a, you get a decent rest followed by hard boulder on small undercuts in full roof, some big holds after and an amazing prow to finish on top of the cave. One of the hardest as well best routes in Skedenj for sure! Bravo Sbisi! Also in Skedenj, Luka Zazvonil proved his shape by doing two 8b's both of them on second go, Fight the Faida, super steep and athletic 8b as well tricky Roulette (8b). Davide Gaeta also ticked one 8b over there, the classic Sežana 31249 (8b). Miha Pančur visited another secret crag Baratro couple of times and succeeded in Masochismo (8b) and...
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Baratro climbing news

Fabio Mazzilis in La Supercanna (8b+) in Baratro
Photo @ Fabio Mazzilis in La Supercanna (8b+) in Baratro Seems like Baratro is the crag to climb in Istria at the moment. All the routes are totally dry, it is not too hot, neither too cold, always with some fresh wind present. For the ones that don’t know Baratro. It is a secret summer crag above the gulf of Trieste with more then 50 routes in the range from 6b – 8c+. It is almost all the day in the shade, but the conditions are quite tricky, the best for sure with some “Burja” aka strong NE wind. If you want to come to Baratro, get in contact with the locals which will be happy to take you over there. Jaka Šprah from Slovenia onsighted his first 8a+ over there, the famous power endurance challenge of Apache kid (8a+). He onsighted as well the classic warm up pitch named Joshua tree (7c/c+) and on his 4th try, he smashed Il...
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