Category Archives: news
photo @ Vera Gussetti in Violento dubbio (8b) in Baratro
Another heat wave hit Istria and also all the Europe in the last week but still some climbers refused to be beaten.
In Baratro, the secret summer crag above the gulf of Trieste, Vera Gussetti took down the connection between the classic routes Violenza carnale (8a) and Dubbio finale (8a+) named Violento dubbio (8b). This connection route consists of the first hard boulder of Violenza carnale on sloppy holds and a committing dyno to a good crimp, followed by an OK rest. Afterwards it joins Dubbio finale (8a+) with its hardest part in a big overhang and continues for about twenty moves without any rests on bad holds to reach the top of the wall. Bravo Vera, keep on crushing!
In Buzetski kanjon, in sector Slap, local Marko Kalčić made a first ascent, this time he managed to...
photo @ the big cave of Osp
As the temperatures dropped a bit, also climbers hit the road towards Istrian »summer« climbing areas.
Klemen Novak visited Baratro where he flashed Placcoman (8a) and redpointed Dino Šturmans artificial Attila (8c), which was first ascended by Swiss climber Simon Wandeler. The extension named Attila lunga (8c+) was later freed by Matej Sova. The first part consists of a hard bouldery start on small crimps in a 45-degree overhang, an OK rest and another awkward boulder on a sloppy tufa to resistant finish on about 15 meters of height. The extension adds another 15 meters of endurance climbing in Il sicario sanguinario (8c) with another spicy and crimpy boulder near the top.
Also, Austrian Mani Hubar was in Baratro where he flashed classic routes Placcoman (8a) and Violenza carnale (8a).
Then young Slovenian girls Ema...
Photo @ Sector “Freezer aka Hladilnik” on the far right side of Mišja peč
Summer heat just doesn't let go, the temperatures are far above 30 degrees Celsius during the day and also much more than 20°C already in the morning. Climbing is possible only in fresh caves such as Baratro, Skedenj, Grotta Caterina, maybe even in the summer sector of Buzetski kanjon. For sure, deep water soloing is the best option for these warm summer days.
Anyways, in Baratro Jaka Šprah redpointed the physical Hercules (8b+) in just couple of tries.
On Sunday, 16 years old Paolo Sterni, son of famous Italian aplinist Marco Sterni, onsighted the crimpy classic Sonce v očeh (8a+) in sector called »Freezer aka Hladilnik« on the far right side of Mišja peč.
Looks like, the summer heat won’t go away pretty soon, so...
Maša Arnšek in Placcoman (8a) in Baratro @ photo from her FB
In the last days, first heat waves of the year arrived. It was hot, humid and perfect for the first swim in the sea of the year. Deep water soloing season started, check where to go here.
What about climbing news from Istria?
Andraž Gregorčič used some last good climbing conditions before summer in Mišja peč with redpointing his first 8b+ ever, one of the best routes in Mišja peč named Kaj ti je deklica or translated What's up girl.
Also Saša Sedlar ended the season in Mišja peč with crushing crimpy and polished Oktoberfest (8a).
In the big wall of Osp, legendary Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo bolted and cleaned from the top a new route left of Medo. Then he came back with...