Category Archives: news

Adam Ondra, Gianfranco Dušić, Piotr Nižnik,…

Photo @ Mišja peč on Saturday

A bit late news, but still better than nothing, I guess.

We have already reported a week ago about Adam Ondra onsighting Starec in morje (8b+) in Limski kanal and about his short visit to Kompanj for his first time ever.

He liked Kompanj so much, he returned soon after and smashed Klemen Bečan's masterpiece All in, I'm out (8c) which was repeated only by Jakob Schubert before. Adam's comment was, that if this route deserves 8c, then all the routes of Kompanj should be downgraded. So, he suggested an upgrade to 8c+ for this three star king line.

Also, he has visited the super steep Pandora where he onsighted Avatar (8b), 90 days (8b) and Toruk Maktu (8b). On the right side of the big overhang he briefly...

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Gregor Šeliga bolted and climbed Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče

Photo @ Gregor Šeliga in the first ascent of Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče

Gregor Šeliga - Šeli first ascended a new route, that he bolted a couple of weeks ago, in Črnotiče cave. It begins a bit right from Gibanica (7c+) and follows obvious line in the roof towards left where in the middle it crosses Gnojna bula (8a+). Then it turns diagonal up towards the top on the left side of the cave. For success in Kremplja (8b) he needed only five visits, where the first one was meant only for bolting and cleaning the route.

By Šeli's words, the route might get a bit easier with time, because of maybe some easier sequences can be found, but for sure not easier than 8a or harder than 8b.

Another brilliant addition to the Tedi's cave in Črnotiče!


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Adam Ondra is back in Istria

Adam Ondra in Istria's hardest route Vicious circle (9a+/b) in Mišja peč, that still waits for its first repeat @ photo by Luka Fonda

Did you hear? Adam Ondra, the world’s best and strongest climber ever, is back in Istria after a couple of years. He visited Limski kanal where he onsighted Franci Jensterle's hardest route over there, Starec in morje (8c), for which he thinks that it should be downgraded to 8b+. Then he visited for the first time the beautiful crag above the village of Roč, named Kompanj, where he onsighted Hard sun (8b+), Reinini (8b) and Nussknacker (8b). Hopefully he has still some days left here in Istria, so he can onsight or  redpoint some of the others king lines in the area as well.

In Istarske toplice, Italian Gabriele Gorobey smashed in just couple of tries the 4th ascent of Caveman's underground...

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Luca Bacer crushes Intensive (FB8a) in Črnotiče

[email protected]Luca Bacer in Intensive (FB8a) in Črnotiče

Trieste based local climber Luca Bacer crushes Intensive (FB8a) in Črnotiče. He crushed the sit start to Less intensive (FB7c) on a night session between his studies for university exams. Link to the video of his ascent!

In the same garage sized cave in Črnotiče, Gregor Šeliga bolted a new project that starts in Gibanica (7c+) and then goes to the left. This new addition in the big roof will weight around 8b+ by Šeli's words.

Last weekend Mišja peč was visited by Slovenian youth climbing team who smashed a big number of hard routes. Let's mention Timotej Romšak who redpointed classics like Mrtvaški ples (8b) and Lahko noč Irena (8a+). Lahko noč Irena used to be 8b until a hold broke in the upper part and suddenly a new juggy undercut showed up...

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Happy new year 2020!

photo @ Martin Tekles in Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč Happy new year 2020 to all of you climbers! We wish you a healthy and injury free year, full of prime conditions for climbing, with lots of sun. May it bring a bunch of hard onsights, flashes and redpoints. In Istria Christmas and New Year passed with great conditions for climbing. Sun, clear skies and wind made it possible for many routes by many climbers to be ticked. Let's start with the queen of Istrian climbing, Mišja peč in Slovenia, which was as usual the crowdies place where lots of hard redpoints and onsights were done. The hardest redpoint was for sure the first 9a for German Martin Tekles, who did Sanjski par extension (9a). The route is located in Tedi's cave on the left side of Mišja peč and was first ascended by Slovenian Uroš Perko, back in 2003. This is the 14th ascent of this...
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Pedoč, new 8a FA in Costiera

Benjamin Marjanovič in first ascent of Pedoč (8a) in Costiera @ photo by local Aldo Michelini

There was quite a bad weather everywhere in the last days or even weeks, so not many hard routes were climbed. But still, in Istria you can always find some dry rocks. Thankfully in the next days it will be only sunny, so the climbing is going to be great.

In Costiera, Benjamin Marjanovič made a first ascent of an old project left of route Gelati (6c). It is 40 meters long with a technical crux just under the chain. He named it Pedoč and proposed a grade of 8a.

In Mišja peč, Ukrainian Illya Bakhmet – Smolensky clipped the chains of crimpy Človek ne jezi se (8c). Then Jakob Bizjak fired super bouldery and rarely done Matrix (8b), while his girlfriend Petra Zupan smashed endurance testpiece...

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Sun, crowds & pleasant conditions for climbing

photo @ the magnificent view from Črni kal

Finally, the sun got out and pleasant conditions for climbing arrived, so yeah, on Saturday there were crowds in all the climbing areas around Istria and many hard routes were climbed. Sunday was a bit cloudy, yesterday it rained, but now the sun is back and it should stay for at least couple of days.

Nikola Kramarić from Split, Croatia, made a fast ascent of famous Missing link (8b+) and also flashed Sonce v očeh (8a+), both in the right part of Mišja peč in sector called »freezer« by the locals.

Then his friend, Vana Piccini, crushed Samsara (8a) in Mišja peč, as well Zadnja skušnjava (8a) in sector Babna in Osp.

Another Croatian, this time from Rijeka, Lucija Brkić clipped the chains of her first 8a, Samsara in Mišja peč.

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New routes in Istria

Sunset in Costiera @ photo by Matej Colja

Not many extreme hard routes were climbed lately as it has been raining for weeks and tufas just don’t stop to pour.

So, it’s time to get you updated with many new routes and latest information about climbing areas in Istria.

In Medveja, in sector Veli Jože Gianfranco Dušič freed the project on the far left, now with the name Small crew and a proposed grade of 7c.

In Osp, in sector above the village called Banje, Mitja Peternelj and friends established a couple of new routes. There is a new direct version of Karies. After the first »slabby« half of the route and a good rest on tufas you continue direct in to overhang to finish in a slab of a new route named Vinko Coce with the grade of 8a+. Then there...

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Temporary closure of climbing area Doberdo del lago

Doberdo del lago @ photo by Anja Bečan

Doberdo del lago is a small but nice crag in between Trieste and Gorizia perfect for beginners to start leading the routes with the best season being from autumn till spring.

We got a message from local climbing community of the climbing area Doberdo del lago. From 28th of October on there are construction works happening in the crag of Doberdo del lago, so climbing and even approaching the wall is strictly forbidden. They are building fences above the wall to prevent stones to fall down on climbers. The work should be done in four to five months, which you will be informed on our site. Please respect!

Here is the official link in Italian and Slovene.

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