Category Archives: news

Latest ascents from Istria

Osp Babna right side

Photo @ Osp, sector Babna on the far right side

The spring is definitely in the air. With next week the temps will raise even more and soon it will feel like it’s summertime.

Local climbers in their local climbing spots were active as usual. In Mišja peč, Jernej Kruder clipped the first chain of Sanjski par (8c+) after more than 50 tries. Now he is getting close to finish the 9a extension. Venga Krudi! Matjaž Zorko redpointed the steep traverse called Lazuret (8b), Tina Berčič did Mozaik (8a) and Mitja Jereb the long and beautiful Sreča vrtnice (8b).

Jaka Šprah made a short visit to Croatian Istria where in Buzetski kanjon in sector Pengari he onsighted Too late (8a) and La petarda (8a+). In the big overhang of Pandora he climbed the classic power-endurance testpiece Avatar (8b) and on second go ticked...

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Eastern ascents

Mišja peč left part

Photo @ left part of Mišja peč

Until yesterday, nice weather was all around Istria for weeks. Many hard routes were climbed all around. Let us start with the hardest ones.

German Moritz Welt strike once more and showed his powers by putting the rope in the anchor of another 9a, this time Halupca 1979 in the big cave of Osp. Here you can watch a video of his ascent.

He also climbed a lot in Mišja peč. While trying Sanjski par extension (9a), he also redpointed bouldery roof Ninja želva (8b+), slabby Klobasa (8a+) for which he thinks it should be upgraded to 8b and onsighted Caffe expresso (8a+) and the second, but still the hardest part of Popaj (8a+).

In Mišja peč as well, Czech Republic’s Vojta Trojan smashed classics like Talk is cheap (8c), Mrtvaški ples (8b) and Marioneta...

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Latest climbing news from Istria

Mišja peč

Photo @ Mišja peč

In the last two weeks conditions for climbing in Istria were just great, that is why so many hard routes and boulders were climbed all around Istria.

Let's start with young Lan Čreslovnik, who was born in 2008 and this week he crushed his first 8a, Iglu in Mišja peč. Way to go kiddo!

Slovenian climbing champ, Domen Škofic, showed up in Mišja peč after a long time and on his second try (he did some tries many years ago) ticked one of his last routes in Mišja peč, the classic powerfest, Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+). More information about Za staro kolo you can find here.

Moritz Welt finished his project by clipping the chains of Martin Krpan (9a) in the right part of Mišja peč. It is already 16th ascent of...

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Moritz Welt in Mišja peč

Moritz Welt

19 years old German uprising rockstar Moritz Welt visited Mišja peč. Frankenjura based climber is world known by his incredible ticklist from the last 12 months when he did 5x9a, 11x8c+, 19x8c + many hard boulders and so on. In the first days in Mišja peč he climbed the endurance testpiece Millenium (8b+) on his second go, onsighted Tekila (8a) and the first part of Chiquita (8a). While trying Martin Krpan (9a), for intermediate training he did the super powerful Konec mira (8c/c+). There is more to come soon, for sure!

The Mišja peč’s local climber and well known doctor, Benjamin Marjanovič succeeded in artificial Marioneta (8b+) in the central part of Mišja peč, while Polish climber Lukasz Debowski clipped the anchor of Lazuret (8b), the long and super steep traverse in the left part of the wall.

In Croatia, in the small cave on the...

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Frozen Istria

Frozen Črnotiče

Frozen Črnotiče @ photo by Primož Grilc

In the last weeks the temperatures in Istria were the coldest ones this winter. It was freezing all around. The wet tufas have turned in to icicles. Anyways, some guys used the chilly climbing conditions and crushed a lot of hard stuff all around.

Young Matic Kotar climbed his hardest route until now by clipping the chains of Missing link (8b+) in Mišja peč, respectively on his second go.

Polish climber, Piotrek Balas redpointed its neighboring route Marjetica (8b).

Matjaž Zorko showed his strength once again by ticking the crimpy Popolni mrk (8c) and bouldery No fly zone (8b), both in Mišja peč as well.

Gašper Pintar succeeded in traditional route named Vražji Robert (8b+). Vražji Robert or »The evil Robert« is a multipitch 8b+ route in the big wall of Osp protected only by old...

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Masters of stone crushing in Mišja peč

Mišja peč Osp

Photo @ Mišja peč

Nejc Solje and Jakob Puhar both achieved their personal bests by clipping the anchor of their first 8b, the endurance testpiece Pikova dama in Mišja peč. Pikova dama was bolted and first ascended by one of the pioneers of Mišja peč, Igor Kalan back in 1995. It is a fully natural line that goes thru the central part of Mišja peč and it is divided in first hard slabby part, good rest, endurance climbing on tufas and small edges to get to another good rest, which is followed by some powerful moves and a sketchy vertical finish on top of the wall. A true masterpiece!

Matjaž Zorko smashed the bouldery Eagles (8b) and a classic powerfest Mrtvaški ples (8b).

Jakob Bizjak did Ninja želva (8b+) in just three tries and also redpointed Človek ne jezi se extension (8c+)....

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Local climbing news from Istria

NY2021

First of all, happy and healthy 2021!

We haven't published any news already for a while. Not that conditions for climbing weren't great some days, but as mainly local climbers can climb in their local climbing areas.

We have summarized some of the hardest ascents down low here.

Let's start in Croatia for a change. Mihael Štefić climbed his hardest route until now, the super steep Es ist vollbracht (8b+) in a jaw dropping overhang of Pandora. Ivana Staraj redpointed her first 8a by clipping the chains of crimpy and technical endurance testpiece called Raw powder war in Kompanj.

In Italy, the local climbers were extremely active in Napoleonica. Gabriele Gorobey – Sbisi made a first ascent bolted one of the last remained beautiful lines, now with the name L'amore ha un solo colore. Sbisi proposed 8a+ for this beautiful vertical gem. Soon after...

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Vita Lukan climbed Histerija (8c+) in Mišja peč

Mišja peč in the sunset

Photo @ Mišja peč in the sunset

The weather in the last days is just great in Istria. The conditions for climbing are prime. Sunny all the time, with low humidity and some winds now and then. The only problem are restrictions due to Coronavirus. Movements in Slovenia and Italy are limited to municipalities and you may only pass the local borders in limited cases based on the list of exceptions. Physical activity outside is promoted, but be mindful of social distancing measures and recommendations on lowering the spreading of the virus.

And what was climbed last week?

Vita Lukan used perfect climbing conditions in Mišja peč and quickly climbed the beautiful Histerija (8c+) in the central part of the wall. First 8c+ for Vita and the 3rd female ascent after Natalija Gros in 2008 and Mina Markovič in 2015. Here you can watch Natalija Gros...

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Climbing news from last week

Napaka u systemu

Klemen Bečan making a first ascent of Napaka u systemu (8c) in HC @ photo by Anja Bečan

Let's start our week report from Istria with another first ascent made by Klemen Bečan. This time he fired short, vertical and bouldery Napaka u systemu (8c) in HC. HC or HardCore crag now counts 14 routes: 6b+ and 6c warm ups, one 7a, one 7a+, one 7b, one 7b+, one 7c and 7 routes in the 8th grade, plus a project called Esmeralda. Almost all the routes were bolted and first climbed by restless Klemen Bečan and most of them still waits for its first repeat. Thanks, dude!

In Kompanj, local climber Filip Kurtović climbed his hardest route, the beautiful Hard sun (8b+). In the same crag Czech climber, Vojtech Trojan climbed the hardest route over there, Klemen Bečan's All in, I'm out (8c+). He needed around...

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Bubamara madness FA (8c) by Klemen Bečan in Kompanj

Yaki

Photo @ GIWEAVAY of a brand new YAKI PORTABLE FINGERBOARD ran by Trinity.Original & Climb Istria

In Kompanj another project was freed by restless Klemen Bečan. This time he did a first ascent of a project on the right side of sector Klobasi in between Minetti contest (8a) and Sekirica na dubu (7c). The new route now has a name Bubamara madness and a proposed grade of 8c. He described the route as fully sharp and painful. It starts with easy climbing on a single tufa to a small roof where business starts. Boulder involves three hard moves on sharp edges and poor footholds followed by moving your right foot really high up using a small intermediate to an OK hold. From here on, you have another technical boulder and a beautiful easier climbing to the top.

With Hangover party (8c), this is another Kompanj's...

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