Category Archives: news

Projects in Istria

If you think that all the routes in Istria have been climbed, you are completely wrong. There are unclimbed projects waiting for the first ascents in almost all the crags. So, what are you waiting for? Go and crush them! Here is the list, which is not complete as the virgin rocks are almost everywhere. Have in mind as well, that all the projects are not finished, not cleaned or need some reinforcement for some holds not to break off.

Slovenian part of Istria:

As usual we can start with the queen of Istrian climbing, Mišja peč.

  • In between Galaktika (8a) and Strta srca (8a+) exists an old short power endurance testpiece on small tufas, undercuts and edges. It was tried quite a bit years ago by Uroš Perko and Klemen Vodlan, probably somewhere around...
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Štepan Volf and Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč

Photo @ Štepan Volf climbing in Mišja peč

Even though the weather thru New Year's holidays wasn't great, many hard climbs were ticked in Istria. We have picked some of them for you. Check it out!

Štepan Volf from Czech republic did the first part of Sanjski par (8c+) in the left part of Mišja peč, then he needed another 10 tries to finish its extension with the grade of 9a. His comment about the route: "Super happy about this one, it was all wet. Somehow skipping the boulder after first part with one long move was a bit easier. 10 more tries after first part. No kneepad."

Hungarian teenager Valyi Gergo redpointed Missing drink (8b+) and Marjetica (8b) on his second go, both in Mišja peč. Besides that, he onsighted...

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Happy new year 2023!

With a bit of delay, but still from the heart, we wish you a happy new year 2023. Let this year bring you many clipped anchors of amazing routes in beautiful climbing areas with your best friends.

With this occasion we have prepared a bit of Istrian climbing statistics for the year 2022.

A lot of routes were climbed last year in Istria. The hardest achievements can be found here down low.

Adam Ondra striked again and did the hardest onsight in Istria ever, Water world (9a), in the big cave of Osp.

Only 13 years old Andrea Chelleris ticked the hardest route by his age in Istria, Martin Krpan (9a), in Mišja peč. The same route was done on second go by Alex Megos. Martin Krpan (9a)...

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Merry Christmas!

Photo @ Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas to all the climbers of Istria!

December in Istria was so so considering the weather and conditions for climbing. That is why we didn't receive neither publish many climbing news. Of course, there were some nice and sunny days, so here are the climbing news.

Trieste based local climber, Luca Bacer, has climbed his hardest route until now, the first part of roofy Sanjski par (8c+), in Mišja peč. Now for the extension Luca!

12 years old Tia Brnot Mrak sent another 8a, this time she did the beatiful Zadnja skušnjava (8a) in sunny sector Babna, in Osp. Here is the video of her ascent.

The weather forecast for Christmas and New Year's holidays looks...

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Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč by Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder in Tedi's cave in Mišja peč @ photo Jaka Ivančič

On Saint Nicholas day Jernej Kruder got a present, his 10th route in the 9th grade, Sanjski par extension (9a) in Tedi's cave, in the left part of Mišja peč. After countless tries and many years of struggling in the route, he finally managed to clip the chains of this 20 meters long roof. You can read some history of the route here.

Now the new discussion is opened, kneepads!? The route was first ascended without them, but now some climbers use them. So, is that OK or not? Please, comment on our Facebook page!

Eva Vidmar climbed her hardest route, the first part of beautiful Chiquita (8a) in Mišja peč. Croatian, Nikola Kramarić, visited...

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Adam Ondra onsights Water world (9a) in Osp cave

Adam Ondra onsighting Water world (9a) in Osp cave @ photo from Adam Ondra's Facebook profile

Adam Ondra has visited the big cave of Osp where in two days onsighted Water world (9a), Osapska pošast (8c) and Baram Baram (8a).

Water world (9a) is Adam's third 9a onsight ever. He found the route soft for the grade (especially with the use of kneepads), but rather hard to onsight it as it's not quite obvious. He commented: "An amazing line from Klemen Bečan had attracted me for a while, and I am glad I was patient to catch the right moment. One of my proudest achievements."

Water world (9a) was bolted and first ascended by Klemen Bečan back in 2014. It is a 55 meters long and very steep route. The first 20 meters are...

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Jakob Bizjak ticked Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja peč

Photo @ Mišja peč

Jakob Bizjak ticked one of the routes from his wish-list, Martin Krpan (9a) in the right part of Mišja peč. The first Slovene 9a and the third one for Jakob. Big congrats, Jakob Bizjak - Bizi! Some history about the route you can find here.

Another Slovene climber, Janez Miklavčič, climbed one of his nemesis routes, the long, kind of awkward but still very nice Gorenjski šnops (8b) in the central part of Mišja peč.

Honzal Novak from Czech republic did the classic Mrtvaški ples (8b) in the same crag.

Last time, we forgot some ascents from Pole Youth climbing team. Maja Oleksy powered thru her hardest route until now, the powerful Missing drink (8b+) in the "freezer" of Mišja...

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Mateusz Haladaj sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč

Photo @ Sanjski par extension (9a) in the left part of Mišja peč

Mateusz Haladaj from Poland sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč. After falling after the last bolt last year, he came back this year with Poland Youth climbing team and clipped the chains. Mateusz has already done three 9a+'s and more than a dozen 9a's around the Europe. He found Sanjski par extension (9a) hard for its grade even using a kneepad. More information about the route you can find here. The video of his ascent can be found on his Instagram profile.

17 years old Michal Korban climbed his hardest route till now by doing the first part of Sanjski par (8c+), day after he also ticked the classic Mrtvaški ples (8b). His colleagues were also very succesfull. Jerzy...

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Helihopter v pošasti (8c) by Igor Čorko (52)

Igor Čorko in Helihopter v pošasti (8c) in the big Osp cave @ photo by SPK Vertikal

Igor Čorko aka Deda, from Varaždin in Croatia, has climbed his first 8c in 2015, Osapska pošast (8c) in the big cave of Osp, being 45 years old. Five years later he added another one to his lifetime ticklist, this time Strelovod (8c) in Mišja peč. Now, with the age of 52 years, he redpointed his third one, Helihopter v pošasti (8c), also in the big cave of Osp. Big respect mr. Igor Čorko! You are the inspiration to all of us!

Alex Ventajas, Spaniard currently living in Italy, visited the big cave of Osp as well, where he onsighted Troja (8a+), Baram Baram (8a) and redpointed Helihopter v...

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Tusnady Nimrod in Mišja peč and Osp cave

Photo @ Halloween

18 years old Hungarian climber, Tusnady Nimrod visited Mišja peč and Osp cave during Halloween and All Saints' Day.

Firstly, he climbed the powerful Talk is cheap (8c) in the left part of Mišja peč. Then he visited the big cave of Osp, where in one day he flashed Helihopter v omaki (8b) and onsighted Troja (8a+), Baram Baram (8a) and first part of Active discharge (8a). What a day! Thumbs up!

His Hungarian friend, Tamas Farkas, also flashed Baram Baram (8a), also in the big cave of Osp.

Pole climbers, Jerzy Laskowski and Tomek Zacharewicz, have occupied and ticked the popular Lahko noč Irena (8b) in the central part of Mišja peč.


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