Category Archives: news

News update

We are coming back to you with the latest climbing news updates. The weather this winter in Istria is quite funny, from extreme rain last weekend to spring temps these days. Anyways, the tufas mainly dried, climbing is possible in the sun as well in the shade, so climbers just deliver nice and hard ascents day by day. Here are some of the highlights: On the girl’s side, Petra Zupan redpointed the beautiful 30 meters long endurance classic in the central part of Mišja peč named Urbanova (8a). Saša Vidmar did its neighbouring route, Uživancija also with the grade of 8a. Austrian Jakob Greistorfer used warm climbing conditions and smashed the fast ascent of Strelovod (8c) in the coldest part of Mišja peč, called »the freezer«. He also did the classic powerfest Mrtvaški ples (8b). Also Mitja Jereb finished his long term project, Pikova dama (8b), the route in the central part of Mišja peč that starts with...
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Miha Hribar sends Talk is cheap (8c)

Photo @ Miha Hribar in Talk is cheap (8c) in Mišja peč The last days in Istria were just bombastic, cold with fresh and dry wind from NE, but still fulfilled with sun and perfect climbing conditions. Many personal records were broken. Strong boulderer and owner of Balvanija climbing gym in Ljubljana, Miha Hribar climbed his first 8c ever, the classic powerfest Talk is cheap in the left part of Mišja peč. The route was first ascended by Uroš Perko back in 1997 and was super controversial at that time. It was bolted by famous Tadej Slabe and after many tries done by Uroš Perko. It was first 8c for Perko as well. At that time, in Slovenia existed only Tadej Slabe's masterpieces Sanjski par (8c) and Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+), so there were many doubts about that controversial grade, but that was long time ago and that times in sports climbing were a...
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New Year specials

photo @ our queen, Mišja peč First of all, Happy New Year to all our followers! We wish you all even more hardcore redpoints, flashes or onsights, first ascents or even spending many unforgettable moments with your loves, best friends, relatives outdoors and of course injuries free 2019! Love you all! Christmas and New Year's day passed with bombastic climbing conditions! Everything was dry, NE fresh wind called »burja« was blowing almost on a daily basis, but still in the shelter from the wind and with the sun above your head, it was just perfect for climbing! So many hard redpoints and onsights happened in these days, that it was hard to follow. Here are some, all the others will be updated in the next days, so stay in touch! The strongest WC couple, Domen Škofic and Janja Garnbret, were climbing for their 1st day after some weeks of rest in Mišja peč. Domen checked some new projects...
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Perfect winter conditions for climbing on Istrian sun

photo @ Klemen Bečan coaching As burja, the cold and dry wind from NE arrived, the temps had fallen significantly, but the sun arrived almost every day on our Istrian crags. Around 0C degrees in the morning and in one digit above during the day, so quite crispy in the morning and evening, but with wind protection you can easily climb without a T-shirt during the day and with for some, top conditions in the shade 😉. The tufas are mainly dry, so the crags are fully busy during the weekends and also during the week you can be surprised how many people climb in Mišja peč these days. Of course, it is super nice to be there on the sun with so many good friends. 😊 In Mišja peč some days ago Žiga Oražem crushed Mrtvaški ples, the classic power endurance challenge in the central part of Mišja peč, probably the most...
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Weekly climbing report from Istria

photo @ Mišja peč from the top Ukrainian World Cup competitor Fedir Samoilov finished his climbing holidays in bad climbing conditions (it was cloudy, humid & cold), but still clipped the chains of the super crimpy testpiece Popolni mrk (8c) in the central part of Mišja peč. When he went back home, perfect climbing conditions returned, so Jaka Šprah fired Nočna kronika to the top (8b), the extension of beautiful 7c with a no hand rest at the first chain, followed by crimpy boulder, dyno move, ok rest, and another tricky crux to reach the anchor on the top of Mišja peč's wall. Then another Slovenian, Jakob Bizjak redpointed totally artificial power endurance Marioneta (8b/b+), also in Mišja peč. Croatian youth climbing team was in Mišja peč for almost a week. Their »coach« Nikola Karamarič executed and showed the youngsters how it’s done by onsighting Iglu (8a), flashing Zadnja skušnjava (8a) in...
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Hard redpoints in Mišja peč

photo @ Mišja peč in the sunset All the hardcore climbers seem to head down to Mišja peč in these days, of course the temps dropped down a bit, "burja" arrived and the conditions got prime. World Cup competitor, young Ukranian Fedir Samoilov clipped the chains of 35 meters long resistant classic Histerija (8c+) after falling about ten times on the last desperate move. He also redpointed the tricky & fingery Človek ne jezi se (8c). Slovenian Dominik Fon climbed his first 8c ever by ticking the classic powerfest Talk is cheap in the left part of Mišja peč. Then Jaka Šprah fired nowadays hard 8b+, Karizma and Marjetica (8b) as well. The later one was done also by Matteo Menardi, who as well onsighted the combination of Corto (8a) with the exit of Hobit (7c), with the name White power (8a/a+). Have fun!...
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Holidays, crowds, Jessy Pilz and more…

photo @ Osp river We know, we are a bit late with this post, but better now then never. Holidays around 1st of November ended, Halloween passed, there were such big crowds of climbers in Mišja peč, you can't imagine, the whole new parking place was totally full, there were climbers from all over Europe as there was pouring rain everywhere around, but Mišja peč remained dry! In terms of climbing, what happened? The Italian, Sandro Neri, 55-years old legend from Erto, one of the famous »Ragazzi di ZOO di Erto« after more then 30 years of climbing, redpointed his first 8c, the resistant 55 meters long Osapska pošast (8c) just in the last days before the rain filled the big cave of Osp. In Mišja peč, much younger Klemen Novak climbed Strelovod (8c). The same route was done for the first 8c by Jakob Šparovec, who proved his shape also by redpointing Veper lady...
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Rocktober

Rocktober has almost finished! It was a really nice weather for the whole month with superb climbing conditions in the shade, also crags like Baratro, Skedenj, Grotta Caterina or the big cave of Osp remained dry until now. So, of course, many, many hard routes were climbed everywhere around Istria. Let us mention at least some of them. In Mišja peč, Klemen Kejžar redpointed the classic powerfest Talk is cheap (8c) while Jakob Bizjak smashed long and crimpy Vizija (8c). 15 years old Czech girl, Michaela Smetanova, visited this legendary climbing area as well and ticked Giljotina (8a) and also Chiquita (8a), on her second go respectively. Boulderer Miha Hribar changed the crashpad for a rope and in search for endurance clipped the chains of two 8b's there on the same day, Marjetica (8b) and Marioneta (8b). The later one was done as well by Polish climber, Rafal Bak, who visited also Read more

Barcolana 2018

This Sunday in Trieste bay, there was held the 50th and the largest Barcolana ever with the record number of sailing ships of 2689, the biggest sailing race in the world. It was won respectively by local crew of Spirit of Portopiccolo, there was the highspeed air show done by »frecce«, fire guns and supposedly around 300.000 visitors in Trieste that day. Check this nice video of this amazing event! Even some climbers visited it. For sure it was a fantastic view on regatta from Napoleonica or Costiera. And what was happening in our climbing playgrounds? In the cave of Osp Robert Buh flashed super steep endurance testpiece on stalactites, the first part of Active discharge (8a). With still super conditions in Baratro, Mitja Jereb and Miha Pančur both achieved some personal bests by clipping the chains of popular La Supercana or also named Il ritorno di Placcoman (8b+). More to come soon! Rocktober hasn’t finished...
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Another 9a, Martin Krpan, by Jakub Konečny

Photo @ Stefan Bednar on the crux of Martin Krpan (9a), famous traverse in the right part of Mišja peč Just a couple of days after succeeding in Sanjski par extension (9a) and Talk is cheap (8c) both on the same day, young and strong World Cup competitor Jakub Konečny from Czech Republic redpointed as well Martin Krpan (9a), the hardest route in the right part of Mišja peč. More about the route and its name you can find out here. To finish the day in a proper style, he crushed as well super bouldery Ninja želva (8c), the extension of Tortuga (7b). In the big cave of Osp, Italian Matteo Menardi managed a second ascent of Revolucija (8c+) after the big stalactite (where you used to have a no hand rest) fell down from the top of this 25 meters long roof. After the break it was only climbed by Domen...
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