Category Archives: news

Weekly climbing report from Istria

photo @ Mišja peč from the top Ukrainian World Cup competitor Fedir Samoilov finished his climbing holidays in bad climbing conditions (it was cloudy, humid & cold), but still clipped the chains of the super crimpy testpiece Popolni mrk (8c) in the central part of Mišja peč. When he went back home, perfect climbing conditions returned, so Jaka Šprah fired Nočna kronika to the top (8b), the extension of beautiful 7c with a no hand rest at the first chain, followed by crimpy boulder, dyno move, ok rest, and another tricky crux to reach the anchor on the top of Mišja peč's wall. Then another Slovenian, Jakob Bizjak redpointed totally artificial power endurance Marioneta (8b/b+), also in Mišja peč. Croatian youth climbing team was in Mišja peč for almost a week. Their »coach« Nikola Karamarič executed and showed the youngsters how it’s done by onsighting Iglu (8a), flashing Zadnja skušnjava (8a) in...
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Hard redpoints in Mišja peč

photo @ Mišja peč in the sunset All the hardcore climbers seem to head down to Mišja peč in these days, of course the temps dropped down a bit, "burja" arrived and the conditions got prime. World Cup competitor, young Ukranian Fedir Samoilov clipped the chains of 35 meters long resistant classic Histerija (8c+) after falling about ten times on the last desperate move. He also redpointed the tricky & fingery Človek ne jezi se (8c). Slovenian Dominik Fon climbed his first 8c ever by ticking the classic powerfest Talk is cheap in the left part of Mišja peč. Then Jaka Šprah fired nowadays hard 8b+, Karizma and Marjetica (8b) as well. The later one was done also by Matteo Menardi, who as well onsighted the combination of Corto (8a) with the exit of Hobit (7c), with the name White power (8a/a+). Have fun!...
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Holidays, crowds, Jessy Pilz and more…

photo @ Osp river We know, we are a bit late with this post, but better now then never. Holidays around 1st of November ended, Halloween passed, there were such big crowds of climbers in Mišja peč, you can't imagine, the whole new parking place was totally full, there were climbers from all over Europe as there was pouring rain everywhere around, but Mišja peč remained dry! In terms of climbing, what happened? The Italian, Sandro Neri, 55-years old legend from Erto, one of the famous »Ragazzi di ZOO di Erto« after more then 30 years of climbing, redpointed his first 8c, the resistant 55 meters long Osapska pošast (8c) just in the last days before the rain filled the big cave of Osp. In Mišja peč, much younger Klemen Novak climbed Strelovod (8c). The same route was done for the first 8c by Jakob Šparovec, who proved his shape also by redpointing Veper lady...
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Rocktober

Rocktober has almost finished! It was a really nice weather for the whole month with superb climbing conditions in the shade, also crags like Baratro, Skedenj, Grotta Caterina or the big cave of Osp remained dry until now. So, of course, many, many hard routes were climbed everywhere around Istria. Let us mention at least some of them. In Mišja peč, Klemen Kejžar redpointed the classic powerfest Talk is cheap (8c) while Jakob Bizjak smashed long and crimpy Vizija (8c). 15 years old Czech girl, Michaela Smetanova, visited this legendary climbing area as well and ticked Giljotina (8a) and also Chiquita (8a), on her second go respectively. Boulderer Miha Hribar changed the crashpad for a rope and in search for endurance clipped the chains of two 8b's there on the same day, Marjetica (8b) and Marioneta (8b). The later one was done as well by Polish climber, Rafal Bak, who visited also Read more

Barcolana 2018

This Sunday in Trieste bay, there was held the 50th and the largest Barcolana ever with the record number of sailing ships of 2689, the biggest sailing race in the world. It was won respectively by local crew of Spirit of Portopiccolo, there was the highspeed air show done by »frecce«, fire guns and supposedly around 300.000 visitors in Trieste that day. Check this nice video of this amazing event! Even some climbers visited it. For sure it was a fantastic view on regatta from Napoleonica or Costiera. And what was happening in our climbing playgrounds? In the cave of Osp Robert Buh flashed super steep endurance testpiece on stalactites, the first part of Active discharge (8a). With still super conditions in Baratro, Mitja Jereb and Miha Pančur both achieved some personal bests by clipping the chains of popular La Supercana or also named Il ritorno di Placcoman (8b+). More to come soon! Rocktober hasn’t finished...
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Another 9a, Martin Krpan, by Jakub Konečny

Photo @ Stefan Bednar on the crux of Martin Krpan (9a), famous traverse in the right part of Mišja peč Just a couple of days after succeeding in Sanjski par extension (9a) and Talk is cheap (8c) both on the same day, young and strong World Cup competitor Jakub Konečny from Czech Republic redpointed as well Martin Krpan (9a), the hardest route in the right part of Mišja peč. More about the route and its name you can find out here. To finish the day in a proper style, he crushed as well super bouldery Ninja želva (8c), the extension of Tortuga (7b). In the big cave of Osp, Italian Matteo Menardi managed a second ascent of Revolucija (8c+) after the big stalactite (where you used to have a no hand rest) fell down from the top of this 25 meters long roof. After the break it was only climbed by Domen...
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Jakub Konečny climbs Sanjski par extension 9a

Photo @ Tedis cave in the left part of Mišja peč, home to some of the Slovenias hardest sport climbing routes: Vicious circle (9a+/b), Sanjski par extension (9a), mythical Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+) and Talk is cheap (8c) Jakub Konečny, 19 years old climber from Czech Republic, had a really good qualifying round in the lead qualifications of World cup in Kranj this weekend, finishing in the second place after the home boy Domen Škofic. In semis he didn't had much luck and fell like many other climbers already in between 3rd and 4th quickdraw on an awkward mantel move. But the day after he spent in Mišja peč and used good climbing conditions (fresh & windy) and a great shape to clip the chains of Sanjski par extension (9a). Sanjski par extension is a 9a situated in the left part of Mišja peč, first ascended by Uroš Perko, back in...
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Sendtember in Istria

Photo @ Martin Wagner in La super Nera (8c) in Baratro Sendtember in Istria! With good climbing conditions also hard routes go down one by another. Yesterday, German Martin Wagner made a first ascent of a new combination in Baratro. He started in La Supercanna (8b+), did its hardest boulder in the middle of the route and before the rest he continued to the right into the endurance part of La peste nera (8b+). This way he established La Super Nera and proposed a grade of 8c. It is his first 8c, so he is not really sure about the grade and he is welcoming all the strong climbers to repeat it soon and confirm his grade proposal. In Buzetski kanjon, in summer sector Befana, Marko Kalčič from Pula climbed his hardest route to date, the beautiful Chica Latina (8b+). It is Klemen Bečans route from couple of years ago which was downgraded from 8c and repeated by Goran...
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Luka Biščak crushes Osapska pošast (8c) in Osp cave

Luka Biščak crushes another 8c, this time Klemen Bečans endurance masterpiece named Osapska pošast in the big cave of Osp. Luka is not unknown rising star but more like living legend climbing hard routes in Istria for more than 20 years in a row. Huge congrats for that kind of motivation! In Glinščica or Val Rosandra Marko Zadravec, a climber from Ljubljana with also more than 20 years of climbing experiences redpointed his first 8b, Monta la capra, a short, steep and bouldery route first ascended by Rocco Romano a couple of years ago in sector Caprette above the village of Bagnoli. Gianfranco Dušič from Croatia climbed Chica latina (8b+) in Buzetski kanjon in the summer sector named Befana. In the same sector Jaka Šprah fired beautiful Lap dance (8b) on his second go, respectively. On the other side of Buzetski kanjon, Goran Matika made a first ascent of a new vertical route in...
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Climbing highlights from Baratro and Skedenj

Photo @ Vera Gussetti in Masochismo (8b) in Baratro Hmmm, where to start? After last week’s ascent of Masochismo (8b) in Baratro by Vera Gussetti, she didn't go on holidays, but came back and fired as well Violenza carnale (8a). In the same crag young Ajda Lovše clipped the chains of her first route in the 8th grade, Placcoman. On the boy’s side, Jaka Šprah succeeded in one of the rare ascents of Le Terme del Musico (8c) with a super crimpy and chipped as well hard start for first 3 – 4 bolts which can be passed by its easier natural variation producing »the classic« Il Musico (8b) which was done on his 3rd try by Jakob Bizjak couple of days ago, respectively. Maybe 20 or maximum 30 air miles from that crag exists Skedenj, another secret summer crag where Mitja Jereb smashed another 8b, this time super steep and athletic Fight the Faida. Thumbs up guys and girls, the season is only...
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