Category Archives: news

2x 9a in the big cave of Osp

Jakob Bizjak in Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp @ photo by Klemen Bečan

The centre of hard redpoints last week was for sure the big cave of Osp. First Jernej Kruder climbed another 9a by clipping the anchor of Matej Sova’s Halupca 1979 (9a). Then Jakob Bizjak crushed his first 9a ever with climbing Klemen Bečan’s work of Water world (9a).

Now Slovenia counts already 12 climbers (10 male and 2 female) with the hardest redpoint route in the 9th grade.

1. Jure Golob

2. Uroš Perko

3. Matej Sova

4. Klemen Bečan

5. Domen Škofic

6. Jernej Kruder

7. Mina Markovič

8. Janja Garnbret

9. Gašper...

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The peregrine falcon is nesting in Mišja peč

The peregrine falcon hanging out on a tree on top of the Caffe expresso (8a+) in Mišja peč @ photo by Jure Franko

Climbers be aware before coming to Mišja peč. The peregrine falcon is nesting on a ledge above Teta Liza (7a), Oro puro (7c), 9a (6c, 7c) and Uncle Ben (7b). Those routes are now strictly forbidden to climb. Anyways, those routes are in the burning sun all day long and they are not possible to climb under these climbing conditions in summer. Also, some snakes appear on these sunny ledges at that time. So, wait with those routes until the autumn and also peregrine falcon and his new family will be grateful.

Some good news also came from Projekt OSP. Rajko Zajc rebolted Pikova dama (8b) and Miha Kern Galaktika (8a), both in Mišja peč. Good work, guys! Here is the...

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Vita Lukan crushed in Mišja peč

Only 19 years old World Cup competitor Vita Lukan showed up in Mišja peč. In just three days she smashed the crimpy traverse in the right part of Mišja peč named Strelovod (8c) in just three tries. Before her hardest redpoint was »just« 8b. She needed three tries as well for the classic endurance pitch of Kaj ti je deklica (8b+). She climbed also power endurance testpiece Mrtvaški ples (8b), onsighted Albanski konjak (8a) and flashed Uživancija (8a). Impressive! For someone life list of projects, but for Vita obviously just another walk in the park.

Jakob Šparovec ticked another classic of Mišja peč, the long, hard and crimpy Chiquita (8b). In the big cave of Osp, Petra Zupan redpointed the very steep extension of Trojanski konj (7c+) named Laokoon (8a).

Also, Croatians are back in the game. Filip Kurtović climbed his hardest route up to...

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Attention in Skedenj

photo @ Skedenj

Now that sport climbing outdoors in Slovenia is again allowed and traveling around the country permitted without exceptions, climbers are beginning to return to the crags.

A few days ago our friends were climbing in Skedenj, the secret crag near Sežana which is perfect in warmer part of the year as it doesn’t get any sun at all. Over there they got again in contact with the local psycho who was already punished by the police for throwing rocks on climbers some years ago. Seems like it didn’t help. He is back again. He already even took some bolts out and stated he will continue with his obscure actions. For now, until this crazy situation calms down, we strongly recommend for your safety to choose some other crag. Here is one video of Luka Biščak climbing Underground doens't stop (8c) over there.

For example, this weekend we...

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Jernej Kruder: 8c FA & 8b and 8a OS

Photo @ the view from Lijak

Dear climbers, it seems that the ray of light towards the freedom of allowed climbing outdoors has shined. As far as we understand the Slovenian government proceedings, Thursday the 16th of April’s news state that outdoor sports where personal contacts can be avoided and safety precautions followed, are again allowed. But still leaving the municipality where you have your residence is not permitted, so it seems mostly locals can profit from this novelty.

We still have some news from the times before this unusual era when Jernej Kruder showed up in a beautiful winter crag near Nova Gorica, named Lijak.

First day he onsighted Venezia (8a), followed by another on sight of beauty called James Bond (8b). On a third visit of Lijak, he made a first ascent of Uroš Brecelj's project second to the right of James...

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Before coronavirus

Gregor Šeliga in FA of Paula nad prepadom (8a+) in Črnotiče @ photo by Štefan Wraber

Before coronavirus hit us badly and climbing outdoors was still allowed, Gregor Šeliga first ascended a new route in Črnotiče cave. The new route now has the name »Paula nad prepadom« and a proposed grade of 8a+. It starts with the same boulder as Gnojna bula (8a+) and then goes left into Kremplja (8b). In Mišja peč, Luka Biščak showed up after a while, back in shape and has finished his nemesis route Gorenjski šnops (8b). Thumbs up guys.

Due to coronavirus, all the climbers are asked to avoid climbing in our climbing areas as hospitals are fully occupied on handling the pandemics situation, so all the risks to get injured or spread the infection are way too much. Please respect that! The rocks will wait for you, maybe it’s time...

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Andreas Matuska repeated Adam Ondra’s More (9a) in Medveja

Photo @ Medveja

Austrian Andreas Matuska made a first repeat of More (9a) in Medveja. The hardest route in Croatian part of Istria was first ascended by Adam Ondra himself back in 2016. It is the extension of Villa Oraj (7b+) and is characterized with far moves on small holds.

For Andi this is his second 9a after succeeding in Sever the wicked hand in Frankenjura last spring. For "More" which in Croatian means "the sea" he needed only three weekends of trying to finally clip the anchor of this 30 meters long beast in surreal landscape. Here is a funny video of Adam Ondra doing the first ascent.

Stay safe folks!

...
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Latest redpoints from Istria

photo @ Mitja Jereb climbing Kaj ti je deklica (8b+) in Mišja peč

The weather is treating us really well this winter. The sun is out, all the routes are totally dry and the psyche is high.

Many climbers are proving their shapes all around Istria, but the hardest routes are as usual done in the epicentre of hard-core climbing, Mišja peč.

Austrian Jakob Greistorfer succeeded in two 8b+'s, the short and bouldery Missing drink and long and sustained Kaj ti je deklica. The latter one was also done by Slovenian Mitja Jereb and Italian Giuseppe Nolasco, who redpointed as well Strelovod (8c) and flashed the classic powerfest Mrtvaški ples (8b). His friend, Stefano Bianchi, climbed the shorter version of Strelovod (8c), named Marjetica (8b). Mrtvaški ples was also climbed as a first...

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Adam Ondra, Gianfranco Dušić, Piotr Nižnik,…

Photo @ Mišja peč on Saturday

A bit late news, but still better than nothing, I guess.

We have already reported a week ago about Adam Ondra onsighting Starec in morje (8b+) in Limski kanal and about his short visit to Kompanj for his first time ever.

He liked Kompanj so much, he returned soon after and smashed Klemen Bečan's masterpiece All in, I'm out (8c) which was repeated only by Jakob Schubert before. Adam's comment was, that if this route deserves 8c, then all the routes of Kompanj should be downgraded. So, he suggested an upgrade to 8c+ for this three star king line.

Also, he has visited the super steep Pandora where he onsighted Avatar (8b), 90 days (8b) and Toruk Maktu (8b). On the right side of the big overhang he briefly...

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Gregor Šeliga bolted and climbed Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče

Photo @ Gregor Šeliga in the first ascent of Kremplja (8b) in Črnotiče

Gregor Šeliga - Šeli first ascended a new route, that he bolted a couple of weeks ago, in Črnotiče cave. It begins a bit right from Gibanica (7c+) and follows obvious line in the roof towards left where in the middle it crosses Gnojna bula (8a+). Then it turns diagonal up towards the top on the left side of the cave. For success in Kremplja (8b) he needed only five visits, where the first one was meant only for bolting and cleaning the route.

By Šeli's words, the route might get a bit easier with time, because of maybe some easier sequences can be found, but for sure not easier than 8a or harder than 8b.

Another brilliant addition to the Tedi's cave in Črnotiče!

Why...

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