Category Archives: news

New king line in Raspadalica

Klemen Bečan in FA of Leonidio news (8a+) in Raspadalica @ photo by Anja Bečan Restless Klemen Bečan freed a project he bolted like two years ago in a cave on the far left side of Raspadalica. The new king line has now a name Leonidio news and a proposed grade of 8a+ and is waiting for new repeats. In Mišja peč strong Italians showed their strengths! Stefano Scarperi fired on his second go power fest Talk is cheap (8c) and Missing link (8b+) as well, then Alexandra Ladurner climbed the techy Oktoberfest (8a). Strong Klemen Novak smashed one of the best Mišja's routes, Kaj ti je deklica? (8b+) respectively on his fourth try. Enej Novak, after clipping the chains of his first 8b ever just a week ago (check the news from the last week here), this week ticked his second one, the classic Mrtvaški ples (8b). Just a couple kilometres away,...
Read more

Gabriele Gorobey has finished Sanjski par extension (9a)

Gabriele Gorobey - Sbisi in Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč @ photo by Štefan Wraber Gabriele Gorobey, for friends Sbisi, a well-known local climber from Trieste, has stunningly finished Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč. It was his long-term project causing him some injuries as well as mental issues. Anyways, when he less expected and went for a try without any pressure only short after he recovered his knee injury, he finally succeeded in it and it became his first 9a! Big congrats! The route was bolted in 1992 by Slovenian climbing legend Tadej Slabe, then in 1994 he freed the first totally horizontal part and graded it 8c. Years later one hold broke and it got upgraded to 8c+. The extension was freed by Uroš Perko in 2003. After that it got at least 12 repeats from many famous climbers. From the first anchor (8c+) you continue with no rest directly into...
Read more

Sanjski par extension (9a) climbed by Nico Ferlitsch

17 years old Austrian Nico Ferlitsch climbed his second 9a - Sanjski par extension (9a) in Tedi's cave in the left part of Mišja peč. He needed around 35 tries to redpoint this one, after climbing Martin Krpan (9a) in the same crag year ago. Here is the video of his successful attempt! Another youngster, 14 years old Slovenian girl Ema Seliškar fired Sonce v očeh (8a+) and Samsara (8a) in Mišja peč both on the same day. Janez Miklavčič was climbing in Osp in sector Banje (above the village of Osp) where he ticked his first 8c, Osapski pajek. Seems like also the big cave of Osp is dry again as Matteo Menardi already did ultra marathon route, 55 meters long Bitka s stalaktiti (8b). Some news come from Val Rosandra, sector Strapiombi delle Vergini where Mitja Peternelj and Ciano bolted some new routes/variations and here is information about it. The...
Read more

News update

We are coming back to you with the latest climbing news updates. The weather this winter in Istria is quite funny, from extreme rain last weekend to spring temps these days. Anyways, the tufas mainly dried, climbing is possible in the sun as well in the shade, so climbers just deliver nice and hard ascents day by day. Here are some of the highlights: On the girl’s side, Petra Zupan redpointed the beautiful 30 meters long endurance classic in the central part of Mišja peč named Urbanova (8a). Saša Vidmar did its neighbouring route, Uživancija also with the grade of 8a. Austrian Jakob Greistorfer used warm climbing conditions and smashed the fast ascent of Strelovod (8c) in the coldest part of Mišja peč, called »the freezer«. He also did the classic powerfest Mrtvaški ples (8b). Also Mitja Jereb finished his long term project, Pikova dama (8b), the route in the central part of Mišja peč that starts with...
Read more

Miha Hribar sends Talk is cheap (8c)

Photo @ Miha Hribar in Talk is cheap (8c) in Mišja peč The last days in Istria were just bombastic, cold with fresh and dry wind from NE, but still fulfilled with sun and perfect climbing conditions. Many personal records were broken. Strong boulderer and owner of Balvanija climbing gym in Ljubljana, Miha Hribar climbed his first 8c ever, the classic powerfest Talk is cheap in the left part of Mišja peč. The route was first ascended by Uroš Perko back in 1997 and was super controversial at that time. It was bolted by famous Tadej Slabe and after many tries done by Uroš Perko. It was first 8c for Perko as well. At that time, in Slovenia existed only Tadej Slabe's masterpieces Sanjski par (8c) and Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+), so there were many doubts about that controversial grade, but that was long time ago and that times in sports climbing were a...
Read more

New Year specials

photo @ our queen, Mišja peč First of all, Happy New Year to all our followers! We wish you all even more hardcore redpoints, flashes or onsights, first ascents or even spending many unforgettable moments with your loves, best friends, relatives outdoors and of course injuries free 2019! Love you all! Christmas and New Year's day passed with bombastic climbing conditions! Everything was dry, NE fresh wind called »burja« was blowing almost on a daily basis, but still in the shelter from the wind and with the sun above your head, it was just perfect for climbing! So many hard redpoints and onsights happened in these days, that it was hard to follow. Here are some, all the others will be updated in the next days, so stay in touch! The strongest WC couple, Domen Škofic and Janja Garnbret, were climbing for their 1st day after some weeks of rest in Mišja peč. Domen checked some new projects...
Read more

Perfect winter conditions for climbing on Istrian sun

photo @ Klemen Bečan coaching As burja, the cold and dry wind from NE arrived, the temps had fallen significantly, but the sun arrived almost every day on our Istrian crags. Around 0C degrees in the morning and in one digit above during the day, so quite crispy in the morning and evening, but with wind protection you can easily climb without a T-shirt during the day and with for some, top conditions in the shade 😉. The tufas are mainly dry, so the crags are fully busy during the weekends and also during the week you can be surprised how many people climb in Mišja peč these days. Of course, it is super nice to be there on the sun with so many good friends. 😊 In Mišja peč some days ago Žiga Oražem crushed Mrtvaški ples, the classic power endurance challenge in the central part of Mišja peč, probably the most...
Read more

Weekly climbing report from Istria

photo @ Mišja peč from the top Ukrainian World Cup competitor Fedir Samoilov finished his climbing holidays in bad climbing conditions (it was cloudy, humid & cold), but still clipped the chains of the super crimpy testpiece Popolni mrk (8c) in the central part of Mišja peč. When he went back home, perfect climbing conditions returned, so Jaka Šprah fired Nočna kronika to the top (8b), the extension of beautiful 7c with a no hand rest at the first chain, followed by crimpy boulder, dyno move, ok rest, and another tricky crux to reach the anchor on the top of Mišja peč's wall. Then another Slovenian, Jakob Bizjak redpointed totally artificial power endurance Marioneta (8b/b+), also in Mišja peč. Croatian youth climbing team was in Mišja peč for almost a week. Their »coach« Nikola Karamarič executed and showed the youngsters how it’s done by onsighting Iglu (8a), flashing Zadnja skušnjava (8a) in...
Read more

Hard redpoints in Mišja peč

photo @ Mišja peč in the sunset All the hardcore climbers seem to head down to Mišja peč in these days, of course the temps dropped down a bit, "burja" arrived and the conditions got prime. World Cup competitor, young Ukranian Fedir Samoilov clipped the chains of 35 meters long resistant classic Histerija (8c+) after falling about ten times on the last desperate move. He also redpointed the tricky & fingery Človek ne jezi se (8c). Slovenian Dominik Fon climbed his first 8c ever by ticking the classic powerfest Talk is cheap in the left part of Mišja peč. Then Jaka Šprah fired nowadays hard 8b+, Karizma and Marjetica (8b) as well. The later one was done also by Matteo Menardi, who as well onsighted the combination of Corto (8a) with the exit of Hobit (7c), with the name White power (8a/a+). Have fun!...
Read more

Holidays, crowds, Jessy Pilz and more…

photo @ Osp river We know, we are a bit late with this post, but better now then never. Holidays around 1st of November ended, Halloween passed, there were such big crowds of climbers in Mišja peč, you can't imagine, the whole new parking place was totally full, there were climbers from all over Europe as there was pouring rain everywhere around, but Mišja peč remained dry! In terms of climbing, what happened? The Italian, Sandro Neri, 55-years old legend from Erto, one of the famous »Ragazzi di ZOO di Erto« after more then 30 years of climbing, redpointed his first 8c, the resistant 55 meters long Osapska pošast (8c) just in the last days before the rain filled the big cave of Osp. In Mišja peč, much younger Klemen Novak climbed Strelovod (8c). The same route was done for the first 8c by Jakob Šparovec, who proved his shape also by redpointing Veper lady...
Read more