Category Archives: news

New guidebook for Istria & Kvarner

In October 2019, a new edition of guidebook for Istria and Kvarner was published. This time it's even larger and richer, with additional areas of Gorski Kotar and islands: Vela Peša, Golubinjak, Vrbovsko, Antovo, Portafortuna, Belove stene, Baška, with drawings for Lubenice, Babina, Osoršćica and Lukovo. As always, we try to make each edition better and more useful.

The new guidebook now has 36 crags and over 2000 routes. All other crags have been updated, freshly photographed and checked: Kompanj, Krkuž & Balcony, Čiritež, HC, Nugla, Raspadalica, Pandora, Buzetski kanjon, Kamena vrata, Istarske toplice, Čepić, Ponte Porton, Pazin, Dvigrad, Limski kanal, Rovinj, Vinkuran, Rabac, Brseč, Moščenićka draga, Medveja, Vela draga, Kanjon Rječine, Veli vrh and Kamenjak.

The guidebook now has a more durable cover with useful ribbon,...

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Water world (9a) in Osp cave climbed by Matteo Menardi

Photo @ Matteo Menardi during his redpoint in Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp

There were crowds and climbers and hard ascents everywhere in Istria in the last days. The weather except the last weekend was great! Here are some of the news about hard ascents that we managed to catch in between.

In the big cave of Osp, Italian Matteo Menardi climbed his 7th 9a, the majestic 55 meters long Water world, first ascended by Klemen Bečan. Here is the video of Klemen's FA! Enjoy! 😉

Another inspiring ascent was done in the same cave. 54 years old Italian, Alessandro Neri after 40 years of climbing crushed his second 8c, Helikopter v pošasti, another 55 meters long endurance pitch.

One more 8c was done in the last days. Jaka Šprah made the first repeat of Goran Matika's Grinta, the...

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Climbing news + WARNING!

Old bolts from sector Babna in Osp @ photo by Project OSP

We are back again a bit later than usual. Eh, that’s life, come on!

In the last two weeks, weather was more than perfect with temps being over the average for the October, everything dry to climb on, perfect climbing conditions in the shade, sea temperature still above 20C, so perfect to relax after a full day of climbing. Hopefully it stays like this still for quite a bit of time.

In Val Rosandra, in sector Caprette, old gun Luka Zazvonil redpointed Tonto total (8c), calling it soft even if it was his first 8c after 6 years. Bravo Luka!

Then in Mišja peč, local Trieste based Luca Bacer crushed one of the most beautiful routes over there, Kaj ti je deklica (8b+). The same route was done as well by the Czech...

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Cristian D’Anzul sends Il sicario sanguinario (8c) in Baratro

Cristian D’Anzul trying his new project in Baratro, Bimba Yena (8c/c+) @ photo from his FB

The hardest route done in the last days in Istria is Il sicario sanguinario (8c) in Baratro which was climbed by the Italian Cristian D'Anzul. By his words, this was just his endurance training route in order to prepare himself for the real challenge couple of meters to the right on the same wall.

Bit more to the south, in nowadays very popular small sector Caprette in Val Rosandra, Matej Sova and Luka Zazvonil both redpointed short and steep Tetris (8b+), while Luka also flashed with the headtorch Il caprone (8a).

Passing the border going to the big cave in Osp where we had a visit of strong Italian Matteo Menardi who easily crushed 55 meters long roof pitch Bala Bala (8b+).

In Mišja peč,...

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Summer is gone, Sendtember is here!

photo @ Grotta Caterina from the outside Summer is gone, Sendtember is here! Temperatures finally dropped and made climbing conditions prime for climbing in Istria. Sendtember is here, so book your apartment as soon as possible and arrange your holidays, link here. The sea is still warm, while climbing conditions are perfect to tick your summer project. In the latest time not many hard routes were climbed, here are just a few of them that are worth mentioning. In dark Grotta Caterina above Trieste, local Benjamin Marjanović first ascended another project, this time he putted the rope in the chains of Caronte (7c+) extension. The new route now has a name Mefistofele and a proposed grade around 8b/b+. A really nice diverse route which is full of crimps, sloppers, jugs, foot hooks and so on. All the repeaters are more than welcome to give their opinion. In garage look-a-like cave Črnotiče Boštjan Weingerl succeeded in a new super...
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Jaka Šprah climbed his first 9a, Water world

photo @ Jaka Šprah in Water world (9a) in the big cave of Osp This week, 20 years old Jaka Šprah from Ljubljana (Slovenia) climbed his first 9a, Water world in the big cave of Osp. Already before he redpointed couple of routes in the 8c+ and 8c range, onsighted till 8b and did boulders up to FB8a and now he was ready to join the fancy 9a club. Congrats Jaka! 😊 Water world is a 55 meters long and really steep route in the left part of the big cave of Osp which was first ascended by Klemen Bečan and later repeated by big names in climbing world such as Domen Škofic, Sachi Amma and Jernej Kruder. This is now the 5th ascent of this monster roof pitch. It consists of two parts: in the first 20 meter part, which is totally horizontal and is done in 30 moves you can find two boulder problems around FB7c...
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Another heat wave in Istria

photo @ Vera Gussetti in Violento dubbio (8b) in Baratro

Another heat wave hit Istria and also all the Europe in the last week but still some climbers refused to be beaten.

In Baratro, the secret summer crag above the gulf of Trieste, Vera Gussetti took down the connection between the classic routes Violenza carnale (8a) and Dubbio finale (8a+) named Violento dubbio (8b). This connection route consists of the first hard boulder of Violenza carnale on sloppy holds and a committing dyno to a good crimp, followed by an OK rest. Afterwards it joins Dubbio finale (8a+) with its hardest part in a big overhang and continues for about twenty moves without any rests on bad holds to reach the top of the wall. Bravo Vera, keep on crushing!

In Buzetski kanjon, in sector Slap, local Marko Kalčić made a first ascent, this time he managed to...

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Youngsters in action

photo @ the big cave of Osp

As the temperatures dropped a bit, also climbers hit the road towards Istrian »summer« climbing areas.

Klemen Novak visited Baratro where he flashed Placcoman (8a) and redpointed Dino Šturmans artificial Attila (8c), which was first ascended by Swiss climber Simon Wandeler. The extension named Attila lunga (8c+) was later freed by Matej Sova. The first part consists of a hard bouldery start on small crimps in a 45-degree overhang, an OK rest and another awkward boulder on a sloppy tufa to resistant finish on about 15 meters of height. The extension adds another 15 meters of endurance climbing in Il sicario sanguinario (8c) with another spicy and crimpy boulder near the top.

Also, Austrian Mani Hubar was in Baratro where he flashed classic routes Placcoman (8a) and Violenza carnale (8a).

Then young Slovenian girls Ema...

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Summer heat

Photo @ Sector “Freezer aka Hladilnik” on the far right side of Mišja peč

Summer heat just doesn't let go, the temperatures are far above 30 degrees Celsius during the day and also much more than 20°C already in the morning. Climbing is possible only in fresh caves such as Baratro, Skedenj, Grotta Caterina, maybe even in the summer sector of Buzetski kanjon. For sure, deep water soloing is the best option for these warm summer days.

Anyways, in Baratro Jaka Šprah redpointed the physical Hercules (8b+) in just couple of tries.

On Sunday, 16 years old Paolo Sterni, son of famous Italian aplinist Marco Sterni, onsighted the crimpy classic Sonce v očeh (8a+) in sector called »Freezer aka Hladilnik« on the far right side of Mišja peč.

Looks like, the summer heat won’t go away pretty soon, so...

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Summer in Istria

Maša Arnšek in Placcoman (8a) in Baratro @ photo from her FB

In the last days, first heat waves of the year arrived. It was hot, humid and perfect for the first swim in the sea of the year. Deep water soloing season started, check where to go here.

What about climbing news from Istria?

Andraž Gregorčič used some last good climbing conditions before summer in Mišja peč with redpointing his first 8b+ ever, one of the best routes in Mišja peč named Kaj ti je deklica or translated What's up girl.

Also Saša Sedlar ended the season in Mišja peč with crushing crimpy and polished Oktoberfest (8a).

In the big wall of Osp, legendary Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo bolted and cleaned from the top a new route left of Medo. Then he came back with...

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