Category Archives: news

Mitja Jereb climbs his first 8c, Strelovod in Mišja peč

Slovenian climber, Mitja Jereb has climbed his first 8c, Strelovod in Mišja peč. After one hold partially broke off on the end of traverse, Mitja Jereb used a kneepad to pass the sequence and successfully clipped the chains. Big congrats!

Also in Mišja peč, Tomaž Bevk redpointed the rarely done Klobasa (8b). It was first ascended in 1988 by Tadej Slabe and graded 8a+. It was the first 8a+ on Slovenian soil and later got even upgraded to 8b. It is a beautiful 7c to a desperate crux in the top slab on bad crimps and blank footholds.

Then, Bor Savnik crushed long and bouldery Nočna kronika (8b) in the same crag.

12 years old Tia Brnot Mrak onsighted the crimpy slab Oro puro (7c), a couple of meters to the left.

Austrian guy, Martin Sobotka...

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Finally some nice weather for climbing in Istria

Finally some nice weather showed up in Istria and made good conditions for climbing on the sun. Looks like our latest article Projects in Istria inspired some climbers for some new first ascents.

Domen Kolenko made a first ascent of Jurij Ravnik's project in Mišja peč. The new route starts right from Stinger (7c) and ends on the anchor of Skodelica kave (7b). Now it has a name Pinč v klinču and a proposed grade of 7b+.

In sunny Dvigrad, Marko Kalčić did a first ascent of Goran Matika aka Gogo's project, just left of Pukotina (6b). New route has a name Žveljarin and a proposed grade of 7c+.

And what about hard redpoints?

Vojta Trojan from Czech Republic smashed the first part of Sanjski par (8c+) in Read more

Projects in Istria

If you think that all the routes in Istria have been climbed, you are completely wrong. There are unclimbed projects waiting for the first ascents in almost all the crags. So, what are you waiting for? Go and crush them! Here is the list, which is not complete as the virgin rocks are almost everywhere. Have in mind as well, that all the projects are not finished, not cleaned or need some reinforcement for some holds not to break off.

Slovenian part of Istria:

As usual we can start with the queen of Istrian climbing, Mišja peč.

  • In between Galaktika (8a) and Strta srca (8a+) exists an old short power endurance testpiece on small tufas, undercuts and edges. It was tried quite a bit years ago by Uroš Perko and Klemen Vodlan, probably somewhere around...
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Štepan Volf and Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč

Even though the weather thru New Year's holidays wasn't great, many hard climbs were ticked in Istria. We have picked some of them for you. Check it out!

Štepan Volf from Czech republic did the first part of Sanjski par (8c+) in the left part of Mišja peč, then he needed another 10 tries to finish its extension with the grade of 9a. His comment about the route: "Super happy about this one, it was all wet. Somehow skipping the boulder after first part with one long move was a bit easier. 10 more tries after first part. No kneepad."

Hungarian teenager Valyi Gergo redpointed Missing drink (8b+) and Marjetica (8b) on his second go, both in Mišja peč. Besides that, he onsighted Corto (8a) and Oktoberfest (8a) and flashed Giljotina (8a). His colleague Tamas Farkas ticked the...

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Happy new year 2023!

With a bit of delay, but still from the heart, we wish you a happy new year 2023. Let this year bring you many clipped anchors of amazing routes in beautiful climbing areas with your best friends.

With this occasion we have prepared a bit of Istrian climbing statistics for the year 2022.

A lot of routes were climbed last year in Istria. The hardest achievements can be found here down low.

Adam Ondra striked again and did the hardest onsight in Istria ever, Water world (9a), in the big cave of Osp.

Only 13 years old Andrea Chelleris ticked the hardest route by his age in Istria, Martin Krpan (9a), in Mišja peč. The same route was done on second go by Alex Megos. Martin Krpan (9a)...

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Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas to all the climbers of Istria!

December in Istria was so so considering the weather and conditions for climbing. That is why we didn't receive neither publish many climbing news. Of course, there were some nice and sunny days, so here are the climbing news.

Trieste based local climber, Luca Bacer, has climbed his hardest route until now, the first part of roofy Sanjski par (8c+), in Mišja peč. Now for the extension Luca!

12 years old Tia Brnot Mrak sent another 8a, this time she did the beatiful Zadnja skušnjava (8a) in sunny sector Babna, in Osp. Here is the video of her ascent.

The weather forecast for Christmas and New Year's holidays looks OK, a bit of everything, but not...

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Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč by Jernej Kruder

On Saint Nicholas day Jernej Kruder got a present, his 10th route in the 9th grade, Sanjski par extension (9a) in Tedi's cave, in the left part of Mišja peč. After countless tries and many years of struggling in the route, he finally managed to clip the chains of this 20 meters long roof. You can read some history of the route here.

Now the new discussion is opened, kneepads!? The route was first ascended without them, but now some climbers use them. So, is that OK or not? Please, comment on our Facebook page!

Eva Vidmar climbed her hardest route, the first part of beautiful Chiquita (8a) in Mišja peč. Croatian, Nikola Kramarić, visited Mišja peč as well, where he onsighted Corto (8a) and flashed Giljotina (8a).

Adam Ondra has visited the big cave of Osp where in two days onsighted Water world (9a), Osapska pošast (8c) and Baram Baram (8a).

Water world (9a) is Adam's third 9a onsight ever. He found the route soft for the grade (especially with the use of kneepads), but rather hard to onsight it as it's not quite obvious. He commented: "An amazing line from Klemen Bečan had attracted me for a while, and I am glad I was patient to catch the right moment. One of my proudest achievements."

Water world (9a) was bolted and first ascended by Klemen Bečan back in 2014. It is a 55 meters long and very steep route. The first 20 meters are the hardest and consist two distinct cruxes. After that you have typical Osp cave endurance climbing on tufas in 8a-8b range to get...

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Jakob Bizjak ticked Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja peč

Jakob Bizjak ticked one of the routes from his wish-list, Martin Krpan (9a) in the right part of Mišja peč. The first Slovene 9a and the third one for Jakob. Big congrats, Jakob Bizjak - Bizi! Some history about the route you can find here.

Another Slovene climber, Janez Miklavčič, climbed one of his nemesis routes, the long, kind of awkward but still very nice Gorenjski šnops (8b) in the central part of Mišja peč.

Honzal Novak from Czech republic did the classic Mrtvaški ples (8b) in the same crag.

Last time, we forgot some ascents from Pole Youth climbing team. Maja Oleksy powered thru her hardest route until now, the powerful Missing drink (8b+) in the "freezer" of Mišja peč. She smashed as well Samsara and Mozaik (both 8a) at...

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Mateusz Haladaj sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč

Mateusz Haladaj from Poland sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja peč. After falling after the last bolt last year, he came back this year with Poland Youth climbing team and clipped the chains. Mateusz has already done three 9a+'s and more than a dozen 9a's around the Europe. He found Sanjski par extension (9a) hard for its grade even using a kneepad. More information about the route you can find here. The video of his ascent can be found on his Instagram profile.

17 years old Michal Korban climbed his hardest route till now by doing the first part of Sanjski par (8c+), day after he also ticked the classic Mrtvaški ples (8b). His colleagues were also very succesfull. Jerzy Laskowski crushed another 8b, this time long & techy Pikova dama (8b) and Tomek Zacharewicz did the chipped Marioneta (8b/b+).