Category Archives: news

Matteo Menardi redpointed Halupca 1979 (9a) in Osp

Matteo Menardi in Halupca 1979 (9a), the big cave of Osp @ photo from his FB Only 18 years old Italian climber Matteo Menardi from Cortina d'Ampezzo redpointed his third 9a, Halupca 1979 in the big cave of Osp. Halupca is extremely overhanging route about 25 meters long, with resistant first part that leads directly in to a hard boulder sequence on flat pinches and extreme drop knees followed by a good rest and some endurance climbing on tufas until the top. It was bolted by Klemen Bečan and freed by Matej Sova back in 2008. Bravo, Matteo! Another astonishing news comes from Limski kanal where Goran Matika managed the first repeat of the hardest route over there, Starec in morje (8c), which was first ascended by Franci Jensterle two years ago. Winter conditions are justifying their fame! Don't miss them out!...
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Igor Corko climbs Millenium, 8b+ in Misja pec

Igor Čorko in Millenium (8b+), Mišja peč @ photo by Luka Tambača Couple of days ago, 46 years old Croatian, a real local climber in Istria, ticked one of his longest life projects. Igor Čorko redpointed 40 meters long Millenium, route passing the steepest upper part of Mišja peč. Millenium (8b+) is the extension of the classic Mozaik (7c+) that after its first chain goes directly in the big roof above it. It was bolted by Italians and freed by Luka Zazvonil in the winter of 2000, that's why its name. Usually after the last competition of the World cup circuit taking place in Kranj, many world best lead climbers head to Slovenian outdoor power house, Mišja peč. This year we had caught only the ascents from a Japanese female competitor Risa Ota, where she easily on the second go crushed Iglu and Corto (both 8a). Jernej Kruder visited Pandora and on...
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Lead World Cup finals in Kranj this weekend!

In the last days, the weather was really bad and it looked like it will never stop raining. Unfortunately, almost every piece of Istria outdoors got wet. There is a lake in front of the big cave of Osp and all the tufas are dripping wet. But in Istria you can always find some dry rocks and seemingly dry routes, try: Mišja pečBuzetski kanjonKompanjPandoraČrnotiče Anyways, Istria is known by its sunny weather and nice climate, so don't be afraid to stay too far from the rocks. Already tomorrow the sun should come out and should stay for the whole next week. Yes! :) Not to forget, there is a Lead World Cup finals going on this weekend in Kranj, starting Saturday with qualifications, Saturday evening semifinals and Sunday at 16:00 o’clock finals. Everybody welcome! If you are in Istria this is a perfect opportunity to see...
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New hardest route in Brseč

The Croatian climbing legend Igor Čorko made a first ascent of new, now the hardest route in the sunny Brseč on the east coast of Istria. Already in the spring he bolted this 50 meters long extension of the new classic named Schussler (7c+). Now he redpointed it to the top and proposed a grade of 8b. Good job, man! Another FA was done, this time by Goran Matika aka Gogo in Buzetski kanjon, more precisely in sector Pengari, where he freed the last project of the sector, same start as Skitalica (7c+) and then going to the right. He named it Mirna (after the river Mirna which has shaped this canyon) and graded it 8a+. Respect! In the same climbing area, in sector Plaža - The beach Jurij Ravnik freed Betka Galičič's master piece Dvogibka (7a),a 25 meters long slab. Many new routes in Istria all the time! :D Jurica Levatić and Jaka Šprah have...
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Strelovod 8c by Mina Markovič

Mina Markovič, the climbing legend who doesn't need any special presentation as everyone knows her numerous achievements in the climbing scene. Yesterday she ticked another 8c, this time Strelovod in the right part of Mišja peč. Laying in serious overhang, it shares the first part of the famous 9a traverse called Martin Krpan and then escapes to the right to finish in Marjetica (8b). Maybe Martin Krpan (9a) could be her next goal? :) Because of the holidays and the nice weather, there were many foreign climbers all over the Istria, cruising from Dvigrad, Limski kanal to Buzet and its close areas like Kompanj, Pandora, Buzetski kanjon, Kamena vrata, Sunset rock, RockN'Roč, Nugla, and of course Slovenia’s Osp and Mišja peč and on and on. Many easy and some hard routes were climbed practically everywhere. Two...
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Happy Halloween!

And here comes the scariest night of the year, Halloween! :) Many climbers used the first of November and its close holidays to spent some time climbing in sunny Istria. Until now we have seen some hard ascents in Mišja peč from: Young and strong Italian Matteo Menardi who redpointed Strelovod (8c) in the right part of Mišja peč. Another young and strong climber, this time from Slovakia, Jakub Kovacik climbed the long Millenium (8b+), the extension of classic Mozaik (7c+). Slovenian boulderer Gregor Vezonik also visited Mišja peč couple of days ago where he onsighted the controversial Veseli tobogan (8a). Veseli tobogan is a short, 10 meters long old school route in the central part of Mišja peč between two white sloppy tufas where according to the first ascent only the holds and footholds in between the tufas are allowed to reach its anchor. The route in its original way has in...
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The climbing season is here!

@photo from last weeks Barcolana, a historic sailing international race taking place every year in the Gulf of Tieste The season for climbing in Istria finally arrived. Last week people from all over the globe were climbing in the summer crag of Baratro, on the sunny winter crags of Napoleonica, hardcore Mišja peč and Osp, as well in Črni kal, not to mention the south faces of Buzet like Kompanj, Buzetski kanjon, Istarske toplice or even Pandora, Medveja and so on. Some of the most spectacular ascents from the past week: Andrea Padoan crushed his second 8c, Il sultano nero in Baratro, after last year’s disappointment in a route when he broke the third hold in this long endurance test piece and then finished on its top. This year he returned after the success in his first 8c, Il sicario sanguinario some weeks ago and...
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Rocktober

on photo Urša Florjančič climbing Happy mix (8a) in Skedenj Rocktober started perfectly, temps dropped down, conditions arrived and climbers showed up all around, that is why also many hard climbs got crushed. Hmmm…where to start? Restless Franci Jensterle aka Frenk first broke a crucial hold in the second part of Working class hero (8b+) in the big cave of Osp, but later still redpointed the route without it and made a hard 8b+ even harder. :) Upgrade? Secret crag Skedenj got prime, so Urša Florjančič fired the crimpy Happy mix (8a). Her boyfriend Boštjan Weingerl was also successful in Underground doesn't stop (8c), a fifteen meters horizontal extension with good holds and many long dynamic moves after the first bouldery part of El trabajo del borracho (8b+), which was done by Jakob Bizjak as well. In Buzetski kanjon Goran Matika made another first ascent, this time in sector Đoser redpointed the hardest route over there, fingery testpiece...
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Uroš Brecelj climbs Vizija 8c in Mišja peč

Uroš Brecelj in Vizija (8c) @ photo by Luka Tambača This Sunday strongman Uroš Brecelj clipped the chains of his first 8c, the crimpy Vizija in the central part of Mišja peč. 30-meters long Vizija was bolted and first ascended by Luka Zazvonil back in 2004, later a hold broke in the first hard part and made it even more solid for the grade. It is divided in first short slightly overhanging hard part on small holds with poor feet and followed by beautiful endurance climbing on tufas for another 20 meters. Congrats, Uroš! In the big cave of Osp Luka Pavlovčič redpointed one of the most marathon routes ever, the 55 meters long beauty called Bitka s stalaktiti (8b). The weather forecast for the next days looks promissing, but for the weekend maybe some autumn rain again....
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FA Grinta 8c in Buzetski kanjon by Gogo

Gogo in Grinta @ Photo by Enna Peroš Goran Matika aka Gogo from Pazin made a first ascent of a new route now with the name Grinta and a proposed grade of 8c in the sector Slap in Buzetski kanjon. Grinta was bolted years ago by Čedomir Čekič Čedo and is the first route to the right of Infamous bastards (8b+). Gogo spent three seasons trying this 25 meters long and pretty steep proyect, characterized by power endurance climbing and many heel hooks, to finally clip it's chain. For sure this is the new the hardest route of Buzetski kanjon and Gogo's personal best. Bravo Gogo, hard work payed off! In the overhanging Skedenj Boštjan Weingerl redpointed El trabajo del borracho (8b+), Luka Zazvonil did the morphological Vision (8b) and Štefan Wraber fired Onda anomala (8b). In another secret crag called Baratro Luca Bacer climbed the combination of three routes called Trilogy with the grade of 8b. Conditions made it...
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