Dvigrad

Another discovery of mysterious Manolo – the Italian master of vertical climbing from the 80’s. An excellent quality of rock – perfect grey compact limestone, a beautiful landscape, in the vicinity to the sea, the famous medieval castle of Dvigrad just near, a camping place just 50 meters from the parking lot… are more than enough reasons to give a visit to this historical crag in the middle of Istria.

 

ACCESS
From the Pula – Buje highway take the exit Rovinj/Kanfanar and drive till the small city Kanfanar. Just on the start of it turn left direction Dvigrad. Drive for 5 kilometers passing the medieval castle of Dvigrad then turn right driving through the village of Korenići for 1,2 kilometer and park on your left. From the parking lot take the path going to the right for 10 minutes to reach this special crag.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°7’58.33”, E 13°48’30.48”

WEATHER
The wall is facing south so it’s best season is from late autumn till the beginning of spring, the best days being in winter. In summer the wall gets some shade after 4 PM but the rock still remains warm. Be aware of snakes during the warmer months!

QUALITY
The rock is the best grey compact limestone you can ever imagine. It is very solid and it offers a nice variety of holds: from cracks, to pockets and edges.

GEAR
Bring a 60 meters rope and about 12 quickdraws.

ROUTES
Routes are all vertical or slightly overhanging. Good foot technique is more than essential and finger power is very much needed as well. It is a typical old school climbing area.

NOTES
Dvigrad is home to one of the hardest vertical routes in the world – Malvazija. It was freed by Maurizio Zanolla – Manolo more than 20 years ago and graded as an 8b+. Just a couple of years ago the route got the first repeat by the American Cody Roth and it got upgraded to 8c+ due to some broken holds.

ROUTES (from left to right):

Sector A
Praz 5b 12 m
Poskok 6a+ 12 m
Hudu-gurus 6b+ 14 m
Smrikva 4b 11 m
Copata 6b+ 13 m
Pčelinje gnijezdo 7a 13 m
X-files 7a+ 13 m
Šparoga bluz 7c 11 m
Rattlesnakey Nik 4c 14 m
Raph Coral 6a 14 m
Graža 5a 14 m
Pašture 5c 14 m
Keramička pločica 6c+ 14 m
Brombula 4b 14 m
Hermine 5a+ 17 m
Anita 5a 17 m
Sector B
C.T. 5c 13 m
Bolder 7a+ 14 m
Il buco del burioso 6b+ 14 m
Črišnja 5a 15 m
Bevanda 6c+ 15 m
Kičma 7b 15 m
Tavana 7b 15 m
Šojka 5a 15 m
Kada 6a 11 m
Parket 6b+ 11 m
Smrdoprd 6c 11 m
Rigokljun 7b+ 11 m
Šipak 4b 11 m
Dub 5c 15 m
La grigliata 7b 22 m
Il clandestino 7c 23 m
Malvazija 8c+ 23 m
What we gonna do with the drunken monkey 8c 23 m
Pukotina 6b 20 m
Divi prasac 7b+ 20 m
Lo gnomo 6c+ 20 m
Sector C
La fattura 7b 23 m
Camomila 6b+ 23 m
Il ritmo parlante 7c 23 m
Falsa partenza 7c 23 m
Otavarium 8a+ 15 m
Dovevi pensarci prima 7b+ 23 m
Sjekira-Dular 7b 21 m
Relja 6b+ 17 m
Alergija 5c 17 m
Smokvino mliko 6b 17 m
Na parove razbroj 7a 17 m
A rotati 6a+ 15 m
Vrana 4c 15 m
Ambiciozna crta 6b 8 m
Connecting people 7c 8 m
Priko drage 5c 15 m
Otrovna kiša 7a+ 15 m
Ditarcuate.com 7b+ 10 m
Urlo 6b+ 10 m
Praz 5c 10 m
Žvahača 5c 6 m
Cip and Cop 6a+ 11 m
Miš z Mekinj 6c 8 m
Skakavac 5a 11 m
Gušter 5b 10 m
Bukateta 5a 26 m
Rankun 5c 26 m
Spone 5c 23 m
Črv 5a 16 m
V.I.M. 6b 15 m
Nemoren 5b 6 m
Sector D
Tizi 5b+ 10 m
Dodo 5c 10 m
Liso 6b+ 10m
Duga 6b+ 11 m
Raumer 6c 12 m
Biba 6c 13 m
Logaritam 7b 15 m
Šišmiš 6b 15 m
Sonda 7a 14 m
muntravo.net 7c 14 m
Makinja 6b+ 16 m
Noćna mora 6c+ 16 m
Ridovka 6a 11 m
Drača 6a 11 m
Grab 5c 18 m
Bijeli glog 5c 18 m
Crni glog 5c 18 m
Baršudba 6a 18 m
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