ATTENTION! All sectors except Hallelujah caves are closed!!!
Between Buzet and Motovun, which almost compete who has more medieval charm, lies a health spa Istarske toplice with massages, saunas and swimming pools, but the climber‘s gaze will drift to the rocks that surround the spa, beginning with magnificent St. Stjepan with easy multipitches. But here lies a potential for one of the best crags in the area, from Hallelujah cave to the magnificent rocky edge on the left. You should come here, if only to stroll between sectors – the paths are great, while the scenery and the view are one of the best.
Drive along the old town of Buzet (on a hill to your left), beside the Mirna river in the direction of Motovun, Novigrad and Buje. Istarske toplice are well sign-posted – the turn is on your right.
For sector Frat turn left a couple meters before, go over the bridge, park and continue on a walking trail , that splits left for Majeri. Walk until a prominent left hairpin bend. When it turns right again take a small path left and uphill towards the crag.
For other sectors drive through the spa to the right side. Park without blocking anything. The approach varies from a couple of minutes walk to the 20-minutes uphill suffering – and everything in between. The sectors are far apart and it‘s not advisable to mix them. Because of some tough paths we advise against bringing children. For Hallelujah cave the approach starts on the side of the wire fence on the right and goes straight and steeply uphill.
For new sectors, go left from the parking, on a wide dirt road, which ends at small quarry. Before that, a nice walking path splits to the left and up and takes you to the ljetni/summer sector, on the bottom of which is another left split to a trail for sector B (MDMA, Dreaming Verdon and Wellness).
For sector A – Sveti Stjepan: N 45°37’76.09”, E 13°88’35.82”
For sectors B, C and D: N 45°38’02.87”, E 13°88’61.11”
For sector E – Frat: N 45°’37’72.86”, E 13°89’06.00”
Most crags are sunny, even though you can always find some shade. Hallelujah and Frat tend to get wet after rain. Rain in Hallelujah cave is not a problem, which is not the case elsewhere – but you will get soaked while walking there, and the path gets quite slippery. Although The ljetni/summer sector is in the shade, best times are still spring and autumn and sunny winter days.
Rock quality in good, but it does break occasionally, as most routes are new. Only on St. Stjepan the bolts are older, while all others should be tip-top. Access is more or less strenuous and you can easily get lost in thorns, but it‘s mostly worth to sweat it out. The bases of all crags are nice and large.
Depending on where you intend to climb. Except for St. Stjepan, where you need gear and knowledge to climb multipitches, the routes in other sectors can be up to 40 meters long, so you will need a long rope for those. In some routes the bolts can be far apart.
The routes vary a lot – from vertical walls on the left that will remind you of Verdon, to crazy roofs in Hallelujah cave. This is a crag that offers all climbing styles.
When it gets warm the snakes may come out. These timid creatures shouldn‘t scare you too much. And, since you are here – why not jump into a healing thermal bath or wrap yourself in mud bandages, after a nice massage.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Sveti Stjepan|
|Vrganj||6a+, 4a, 5c||70 m|
|Žaba||6a+, 4a, 5c||70 m|
|Koromač||6a+, 4b, 6a||80 m|
|Sveti Stjepan||6a+, 4b, 6b||80 m|
|Tuljani u toplicama||6c+, 6b, 6b||90 m|
|Tri muža||6b, 6b+, 7a||90 m|
|B1 – MDMA|
|Crevati dai Coglioni||6b+||15 m|
|Gringo Esquiador||6a||15 m|
|La guida non e gelosa||5c||15 m|
|Ascendente scorpione||6b||15 m|
|Wet dreams||6a||16 m|
|Sky cola||6c+||16 m|
|Sky cola effect extension||P||30 m|
|I cavalieri del lavoro||7c+||27 m|
|Dallas Buyers Club||7c||28 m|
|Panino con tutto||7c||28 m|
|No xe per tutti||7c||25 m|
|Ghey team||8b||25 m|
|Fino a qui tutto bene||8b+||24 m|
|Positive vibrations||6a||25 m|
|Mosca Petuski||7a+||22 m|
|Il liberatore||7b||22 m|
|The mighty cobra||7c||25 m|
|Black mamba||8a||25 m|
|Risk management||8b||28 m|
|Digital love||7b+||28 m|
|Analogic love||7c||30 m|
|Digital block||8a+||21 m|
|Analogic block||7b||16 m|
|Alpinismo senza gloria||6c||17 m|
|Alpinismo senza gloria extension||7b||35 m|
|B2 – Dreaming Verdon|
|Te lo do il Mose il Verdon||7c||35 m|
|Finger fist||7a+||35 m|
|Never ending maze||7b+||30 m|
|Finger therapy||7c||25 m|
|Il pane di una volta||P||30 m|
|Pan e vin||P||25 m|
|Pezzolato – Sterpin||5c, 6c, 6b||90 m|
|B3 – Wellness|
|Folgoration boy||6c||15 m|
|From Bosnia to Istria||7a||20 m|
|Balkan Express||7c+||20 m|
|Ciuccio Muccio and friends||7c||20 m|
|Champs Elysees||8a+||25 m|
|Te mazo a colpi de cazo||7c||25 m|
|Their law||8b||25 m|
|Pussy lover||P||28 m|
|American gipsy||8a+||25 m|
|P extension||45 m|
|C – Ljetni sektor (Summer sector)|
|Ground control||6b+||35 m|
|Major Tom||6c+||25 m|
|Estate Indiana||6c||20 m|
|Bacer’s shark attack||7b+||30 m|
|Petit Amelie||7b||25 m|
|It’s hard to be short||8b+||25 m|
|Baila Morena||6b+||20 m|
|Black Nadia||7b+||32 m|
|Konan il Grigio||7c+||30 m|
|Konan il Grigio extension||8a||45 m|
|Il volo della Martora||8a||35 m|
|Il volo della Martora extension||P||50 m|
|Mi sento un po’zen||6c+||20 m|
|Lukič dolina||7a+||20 m|
|D – Hallelujah cave|
|Lassing Pressing||8a||15 m|
|Caveman’s playground||8c+||20 m|
|Sunčana strana||7c+||18 m|
|Kon Tiki||7c||15 m|
|Fragola con panna||6c||15 m|
|Dichte Fichte||7c+||12 m|
|Il conto unico||7b+||18 m|
|Big fish||7a+||25 m|
|Big Ben||7a+||20 m|
|Schwarzer Finger||7a||20 m|
|Die Spinne||6b||22 m|
|Science friction||7b||22 m|
|E – Frat|
|Silenzio di Samba||6a+||18 m|
|Patata templada||7a||23 m|
|Troia o sposa||7c+||25 m|
|Tanto brazo, poco c…||P||25 m|
|Il mago della sega||7b+||11 m|
|Fatta per Facco||7a+||25 m|