Istarske toplice

Between Buzet and Motovun, which almost compete who has more medieval charm, lies a health spa Istarske toplice with massages, saunas and swimming pools, but the climber‘s gaze will drift to the rocks that surround the spa, beginning with magnificent St. Stjepan with easy multipitches. But here lies a potential for one of the best crags in the area, from Hallelujah cave to the magnificent rocky edge on the left. You should come here, if only to stroll between sectors – the paths are great, while the scenery and the view are one of the best.

ACCESS
Drive along the old town of Buzet (on a hill to your left), beside the Mirna river in the direction of Motovun, Novigrad and Buje. Istarske toplice are well sign-posted – the turn is on your right.
For sector Frat turn left a couple meters before, go over the bridge, park and continue on a walking trail , that splits left for Majeri. Walk until a prominent left hairpin bend. When it turns right again take a small path left and uphill towards the crag.
For other sectors drive through the spa to the right side. Park without blocking anything. The approach varies from a couple of minutes walk to the 20-minutes uphill suffering – and everything in between. The sectors are far apart and it‘s not advisable to mix them. Because of some tough paths we advise against bringing children. For Hallelujah cave the approach starts on the side of the wire fence on the right and goes straight and steeply uphill.
For new sectors, go left from the parking, on a wide dirt road, which ends at small quarry. Before that, a nice walking path splits to the left and up and takes you to the ljetni/summer sector, on the bottom of which is another left split to a trail for sector B (MDMA, Dreaming Verdon and Wellness).

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PARKING GPS
For sector A – Sveti Stjepan: N 45°37’76.09”, E 13°88’35.82”
For sectors B, C and D: N 45°38’02.87”, E 13°88’61.11”
For sector E – Frat: N 45°’37’72.86”, E 13°89’06.00”

WEATHER
Most crags are sunny, even though you can always find some shade. Hallelujah and Frat tend to get wet after rain. Rain in Hallelujah cave is not a problem, which is not the case elsewhere – but you will get soaked while walking there, and the path gets quite slippery. Although The ljetni/summer sector is in the shade, best times are still spring and autumn and sunny winter days.

QUALITY
Rock quality in good, but it does break occasionally, as most routes are new. Only on St. Stjepan the bolts are older, while all others should be tip-top. Access is more or less strenuous and you can easily get lost in thorns, but it‘s mostly worth to sweat it out. The bases of all crags are nice and large.

GEAR
Depending on where you intend to climb. Except for St. Stjepan, where you need gear and knowledge to climb multipitches, the routes in other sectors can be up to 40 meters long, so you will need a long rope for those. In some routes the bolts can be far apart.

ROUTES
The routes vary a lot – from vertical walls on the left that will remind you of Verdon, to crazy roofs in Hallelujah cave. This is a crag that offers all climbing styles.

NOTES
When it gets warm the snakes may come out. These timid creatures shouldn‘t scare you too much. And, since you are here – why not jump into a healing thermal bath or wrap yourself in mud bandages, after a nice massage.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia

+385 91 169 62 67, [email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores/

Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.

Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia

[email protected]

In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Sveti Stjepan
Vrganj	6a+, 4a, 5c	70 m
Žaba	6a+, 4a, 5c	70 m
Koromač	6a+, 4b, 6a	80 m
Sveti Stjepan	6a+, 4b, 6b	80 m
Kušlec	6c+	20 m
Tuljani u toplicama	6c+, 6b, 6b	90 m
Tri muža	6b, 6b+, 7a	90 m
B1 – MDMA
Crevati dai Coglioni	6b+	15 m
Gringo Esquiador	6a	15 m
La guida non e gelosa	5c	15 m
Ascendente scorpione	6b	15 m
?	5a	15 m
Wet dreams	6a	16 m
Sky cola	6c+	16 m
Sky cola effect extension	P	30 m
I cavalieri del lavoro	7c+	27 m
Dallas Buyers Club	7c	28 m
Panino con tutto	7c	28 m
Quadruvium	6b	30 m
Fernetita	7b	25 m
No xe per tutti	7c	25 m
Ghey team	8b	25 m
Fino a qui tutto bene	8b+	24 m
P
Positive vibrations	6a	25 m
Mosca Petuski	7a+	22 m
Il liberatore	7b	22 m
Chapeau	7c+	23 m
The mighty cobra	7c	25 m
Black mamba	8a	25 m
Anticanon	8a+	30 m
Risk management	8b	28 m
Digital love	7b+	28 m
Analogic love	7c	30 m
Digital block	8a+	21 m
?	5c	14 m
Analogic block	7b	16 m
Alpinismo senza gloria	6c	17 m
Alpinismo senza gloria extension	7b	35 m
Gimnosperma	6c+	25 m
B2 – Dreaming Verdon
Te lo do il Mose il Verdon	7c	35 m
Finger fist	7a+	35 m
Never ending maze	7b+	30 m
Kaleidoscopami	7b	30 m
Finger therapy	7c	25 m
Il pane di una volta	P	30 m
Pan e vin	P	25 m
NXCB	7a	30 m
Pezzolato – Sterpin	5c, 6c, 6b	90 m
B3 – Wellness
Folgoration boy	6c	15 m
From Bosnia to Istria	7a	20 m
Balkan Express	7c+	20 m
Ciuccio Muccio and friends	7c	20 m
Champs Elysees	8a+	25 m
P
Te mazo a colpi de cazo	7c	25 m
Their law	8b	25 m
P		25 m
Pussy lover	P	28 m
American gipsy	8a+	25 m
P		25 m
P extension		45 m
P		27 m
C – Ljetni sektor (Summer sector)
Ground control	6b+	35 m
Ganesha	7a	20 m
Major Tom	6c+	25 m
Estate Indiana	6c	20 m
P		35 m
Bacer’s shark attack	7b+	30 m
Petit Amelie	7b	25 m
It’s hard to be short	8b+	25 m
Blik	7b+	25 m
Baila Morena	6b+	20 m
Blok	7a	20 m
Black Nadia	7b+	32 m
Konan il Grigio	7c+	30 m
Konan il Grigio extension	8a	45 m
Il volo della Martora	8a	35 m
Il volo della Martora extension	P	50 m
Mi sento un po’zen	6c+	20 m
Lukič dolina	7a+	20 m
D – Hallelujah cave
No.1	5c	20 m
No.2	5c	20 m
P		15 m
Lassing Pressing	8a	15 m
P		16 m
P		17 m
Caveman’s playground	8c+	20 m
Sunčana strana	7c+	18 m
Schlangenloch	6b	17 m
Serum	6c	17 m
10000	6c+	18 m
Kon Tiki	7c	15 m
Fragola con panna	6c	15 m
Rotbart	6b	15 m
Dichte Fichte	7c+	12 m
Il conto unico	7b+	18 m
Waffengenger	7b	16 m
Big fish	7a+	25 m
Big Ben	7a+	20 m
Schwarzer Finger	7a	20 m
Kolja	6c+	20 m
Die Spinne	6b	22 m
Fingerprint	7a	22 m
Science friction	7b	22 m
E – Frat
Silenzio di Samba	6a+	18 m
Krampus	7a	22 m
Babaroga	7c	22 m
Patata templada	7a	23 m
Troia o sposa	7c+	25 m
Stargate	P	25 m
Starghey	7c+	25 m
Tanto brazo, poco c…	P	25 m
Il mago della sega	7b+	11 m
Fatta per Facco	7a+	25 m
Pankeepa	6b+	25 m