Rječina canyon is an unusual crag near the city of Rijeka, which is distinctively local, but just because of that even more fun. If you come here to climb a few grades you‘ll quickly get a slap or two. On the other hand, the unique slopey holds, almost boulderinglike approach to climbing, solitude, river pools and summer feel, offer an experience, you would never attribute to the hustle of the city, that lies just a stone‘s throw away.
It‘s best to get on the motorway in Rijeka towards Split and after a long tunnel turn sharp right, taking the exit Sušak. Connect on the road and turn right. You will cross the motorway and come to another intersection. For Žakalj turn left on the road, leading above the canyon towards Rijeka. Before you reach the tunnel and viaduct there are a couple of rest spots on the right. Park at the second and one go down on a nicely maintained trail to the canyon. On the bottom turn left inside the canyon until you reach the narrow part, where the crag is. If you go to Slap it‘s better to go straight in the intersection after you cross the highway. Park on the left side shortly after and return a little back for a trail above the canyon, which slowly descends to ruined watermills. When you reach a lonely house on the right, the sector Kod Dede is behind it, but you may have to scramble through thorns and bushes to reach it. This trail ends at the riverbed. Follow it to the upper narrow point with sector Slap. The sectors Slap and Žakalj can also be connected on foot following the canyon riverbed or the paths beside it. This walk takes about half an hour and is very fun and scenic, with bunch of boulders on the way.
For sector Žakalj: N 45°33’50.84”, E 14°46’02.24”
For sectors Slap and Kod Dede: N 45°33’78.19”, E 14°46’72.65”
Summer is the best, as the riverbed is dry and the walls are mostly shaded. Occasional pools offer extra refreshment. You can climb also during the rest of the year, but conditions depend on temperature, humidity and the amount of water, so this time is better left to locals.
Most routes are short and demaning. The rock is polished and water-washed with many slopers and hard to define cracks, stepping on friction and seeking balance. Forget about the grades and your ego and enjoy completely different challenges. There’s many more potential and ideas (climbing from a raft in the pool) *we hope some of which are realized!
Routes are bolted nicely and the rock is not crumbling. All the better climbers are cordially invited to try the crag’s challenge, Antifa 8b.
Bouldery character of the routes, body tension and power are complemented by boulders in the riverbed or on the sides.
Although near the big city, the environment is solitary and adventurous, with overgrown ruined watermills and high walls of the canyon on both sides. Rječina canyon is an unusual crag near the city of Rijeka, which is distinctively local, but just because of that even more fun. If you come here to climb a few grades you’ll quickly get a slap or two. On the other hand, the unique slopey holds, almost boulderinglike approach to climbing, solitude, river pools and summer feel, offer an experience, you would never attribute to the hustle of the city, that lies just a stone‘s throw away. If you decide to walk upstream through the canyon, you‘ll be treated to some spectacular remains of large watermills, which look like ancient jungle temples.
ROUTES (from left to right):
A – Žakalj
Žakalj is the left narrow point in the canyon with typical, waterpolished, smooth rock and specific climbing where balance is the key. And of course power on slopers. The main challenge between 8a‘s is still waiting for FA.
Bambucha 6a 12 m
Bambucha extended 7b 16 m
Recesija 7b+ 16 m
Fiumara 6b+ 16 m
Luisa 6c+ 15 m
Vaginalna manipulacija 7c 15 m
Mentalna higijena 8a 17 m
Project 8b ? 15 m
Wasser vaga 8a 15 m
B – Kod dede
Kod Dede is about halfway through the canyon and surprisingly varied and karsty rock. The approach may go through thorns and bushes.
Cirkus ludnica 6a 20 m
Indeficienter 6c+ 20 m
Jugoton express 6a+ 20 m
C – Slap
Slap is the narrow point on the right. Nice atmosphere and high rock hide some more potential routes here. Tackle the right ones with all due respect, while the left one, Antifa, still unrepeated, may prove a bit too much for most (especially shorter) climbers.
Antifa 8b 15 m
3. Maj 7c 15 m
Graciani 7b+ 15 m
Lolek i Bolek 6c+ 15 m
Hartera 6b+ 15 m
If the routes in the canyon are a little bit too unusual for you, the rock is just perfect for bouldering. In the bedrock and beside it are a bunch of boulders. Figure out the grades by yourself