Aurisina is an old – new crag along the coastal road. Already in 1985 Iesu, Pezzolato and Varnerin bolted a few routes here, but it took 30 years that they were re-equipped by Zorzi and Frezzolini, who added a couple more. This is an interesting and fresh crag with another great view in southern exposition sheltered from the wind for a not too strenuous climbing day.
It‘s best to drive on the A4/E70 highway from direction of Trieste to the exit of Sistiana. Make the turn and catch the right split for Aurisina. Go left at the main road and drive straight for some time. Ignore the turn for highway and immediately after that, before the railway bridge, turn right. This road will lead you to industrial zone, where you stick to the right and at the end park beside the road. Be mindful of the signs that forbid parking, as this space is also used by trucks that roam on this streets. At the end of industrial zone the path leads right, over dirt road and through the woods to the viewpoint at the edge. Turn left here and follow the path for about 10 minutes, until you reach a clearing and the path goes downward a bit. Be mindful here for a right turn, sometimes marked by a small stoneman. This will lead you to the last route in sector Est.
N 45°75’53.04”, E 13°65’26.80”
As goes for all the coastal crags, the best day for climbing is in the winter – if the skies are clear. However, the most stable conditions are in spring and autumn. Since the wall faces south, the summer is absolutely too hot.
Routes are more or less vertical and the harder ones are pretty smooth, so you need good technique, great footwork and strong fingers. The easy routes are very pleasant though. Both sectors have a bunch of easy routes on the right, but don‘t underestimate the others, especially 7s.
The gear is new, the rock is fresh and sharp, but compact. You can even find an odd overhang or tufa.
Est is quite diverse sector and although the routes here are also mostly vertical and technical, you will find everything in them, from overhangs, tufas, cracks, chimneys and huge holds. In any case, you will still solve your problems with strong fingers along with fresh and a little stiffer pair of climbing shoes.
A path that splits down at the end of sector Est, brings you to sector Ovest. The routes to the right are very nice, although they are shorter. The ones on the left are distinctively technical, and despite the fresh, small and sharp holds even quite hard.
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Sector Est|
|Vespa 50||5b||10 m|
|United Sforz||7c+||15 m|
|Aqua tonica||6c||20 m|
|B – Sector Ovest|
|Hot staff||7a+||20 m|
|Di santa pianta||7a||20 m|
|Coppia d’assi||7b||20 m|
|Pan e circe||7a||20 m|
|Mens sana||6c||20 m|
|Midwest pig||5b||10 m|