Grotta Caterina

Grotta Caterina was discovered by drytoolers and the seemingly unclimbable overhang was bravely traversed. Today the cave has many routes – the short ones aren‘t even that hard. The atmosphere is great, like a kind of druid shrine, but the weather can be a drag at any time of the year. If you climb harder routes, Grotta Caterina can be an excellent and interesting change in your climbing routine. GROTTA CATERINA IS CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR CLIMBING!

Get your ass to Aurisina. It is a town stretched along the road between Sistiana and Santa Croce. If you came from Sistiana, then follow the turning left at the end of Aurisina, towards the railway station or San Pelagio. First you will cross the motorway and later the railroad tracks in a sharp left curve. The road starts to climb a little. When you see an intersection sign be mindful for a turning right (at a pole with a tree), as it is narrow and easily missed. Park as unobtrusively as possible before the last houses. Then follow a dirt path into the forrest, where you can split to the right at two points, which will bring you to the left/right side of the cave.

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N 45°45’17.5”, E 13°41’33.8”

Summer is the best time, if it‘s not too hot and the wall is dry. The conditions can vary at any time, so you need some luck. The cave is much cooler than its surroundings, but any rain will drip through quite fast.

The quality of the bolts varies, which applies also to the pre-placed quickdraws. The rock itself is pretty solid, albeit a bit slippery. The base of the wall is comfortable and children can play here, as they will probably not climb much. The routes are generally not long, but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring enough quickdraws. Otherwise most routes are nice endurance pieces, which get abruptly interrupted by brutal cruxes, often right near the anchor.

Until recently Grotta was a secret spot – the parking is very small. Climbers share the wall with drytoolers! Making fire is forbidden. Try to be as inconspicuous as possible.

ROUTES (from left to right):

Sabrina 4c 8 m
Micol 5c 8 m
Sueno 6c 6b+ 15 m
Aljaž 8a+ 15 m
Payoyo 7c+ 18 m
Ti stimo en fratello 6b+ 18 m
La ultima rola – left exit 7a+ 15 m
La ultima rola 7c 15 m
Piccaminosa 8b+ 25 m
Caronte 7c+ 15 m
Mefistofele = Caronte extension 8a+ 25 m
Lucio Colombia 8b 20 m
Alta marea 7b 13 m
Alta marea extension 7b+ 18 m
Alta marea 2nd extension 7c 23 m
??? 6c 15 m
Spittacolo 7a+ 15 m 7c 15 m
Le putain 8b 15 m
Hello Ketty 8a 15 m
Mariposa 7b 10 m
Raketke 7a 14 m
Kif 8a 13 m
Vongola 6c 12 m
Bassupo 7b+ 15 m
Zoidberg 7b+ 15 m
Perla 7b 16 m
Mandracata 8a+ 20 m
Calispera 8b+ 25 m
Nobile 7b 10 m
Nobile extension 7c 16 m
Fidel incastro 8c+ 23 m
Pica prese 7b+ 12 m
Pica prese direct 7a 10 m
Stica 6c 10 m
Marta 5b 8 m