Napoleonica

Napoleonica is a huge crag and a home to a proud group of Trieste climbers, who can be seen scurrying along the famous traverses on the foot of the crag. This is a true family climbing spot, even if “papa“ likes to send an 8 or two – as long as he prefers polished vertical walls. The older part is situated beside the road. The routes are artificial and polished, but the newer sectors lie below the road – with excellent Calabrone and Mano di Fatima, which brought true renaissance to the Napa crag.
ACCESS
Drive on the highway A4 from Trieste/Fernetti in the direction of Venezia (Venice). Get off at Prosecco exit. When you pass Lanza center (on your right), turn left and immediately left again, then after a couple of meters turn right on a side road to Monte Grisa. Follow the straight road to a peculiar crossroad, where you turn right until a T intersection, where you go left. This is the beginning of a long and big parking lot, on the end of which the crag starts. You may still have to walk quite a bit up or down on the scree to get to some sectors, but it‘s usually worth it. You can sometimes make a shortcut with abseil (eg. Piccolo cottolengo), and sometimes you have to climb to a sector (Parete bianca).
PARKING GPS
P1 N 45°69’78.55”, E 13°74’17.51”
P2 N 45°69’67.83”, E 13°74’07.17”
WEATHER
In the summer the weather is too hot, except in the parts in the shade and in the morning or evening. Rain will also chase you to the nearest bar. But the exposition is extremely sunny, so you can climb here during the whole winter (on a sunny day) and of course spring and autumn. Some routes do tend to get wet.
QUALITY
The rock is fantastic. Especially by the road the last broken hold is dated in the times of Napoleon. You can‘t complain over the equipment either – although it varies from ancient to “yesterday‘s“. The routes mostly have anchors with biners on top, but you have to retie your rope occasionaly. The comfort under the wall by the road is unparalleled, while in other sectors it‘s generally OK – if you survive the approach.
GEAR
The routes aren‘t too long (around 30 m tops), but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring a few extra quickdraws.
ROUTES
The routes are mostly vertical, with an exception now and then and the sectors Mano di Fatima and Grotta di Cane (where power and dynamics is required). The climbing is usually technical and precise. A lot of times accurate beta is very helpful. Watch out on the older routes – just because a local climber is running up the route, it may not apply to you, despite the “low“ grade. The rock here was cut for the passing road, and the holds prove it – often they are polished like… racing car tires.
NOTES
You can go to sector Calabrone only down the hill from the road. Be careful not to roll stones on a private property below you.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija
+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]
Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.
- Eva Scroccaro in Orcobaleno (8b)
- Napoleonica
- Napoleonica
- Napoleonica
ROUTES (from left to right):
A – Classica | |||
Texi | 5a | 12 m | |
Franehica | 5b | 12 m | |
Spigolo giallo | 6a | 12 m | |
Mr.Grease | 6a | 12 m | |
Carioca | 6a | 12 m | |
Varianta | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Isidora | 6a | 12 m | |
Mago Merlino | 6a+ | 12 m | |
No Arci | 6a | 12 m | |
Bombastic | 5c | 12 m | |
J.Arg | 5c | 12 m | |
Old time | 5b | 12 m | |
Stu ledi | 5b | 10 m | |
Napo games | 6a | 10 m | |
Rock labirinth | 6c | 10 m | |
Clorophille | 6b+ | 10 m | |
Cico | 4c | 10 m | |
Ra artu | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Mumble | 5c | 12 m | |
Q6 | 6a | 12 m | |
Q7 | 5c | 12 m | |
Irish caffe | 5c | 10 m | |
Black out | 6b | 10 m | |
B.P.S. | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Bananarama | 5c | 12 m | |
La via del teran | 6b | 12 m | |
Stinger | 6b | 12 m | |
? | 5c | 12 m | |
? | 5a | 12 m | |
? | 5c | 12 m | |
B – Scudo (The shield) | |||
Mr.Crocodile | 7a+ | 12 m | |
Managua | 7a+ | 15 m | |
Ratataplan | 7b | 17 m | |
Mud club | 8a+ | 18 m | |
Telefono azzurro | 7a+ | 19 m | |
Scudo | 7a+ | 20 m | |
La galina zota | 8b | 20 m | |
Wild wind | 8a | 20 m | |
Scacco matto | 8b | 18 m | |
Poker d’assi | 7c+ | 18 m | |
Orcobaleno | 8b | 15 m | |
Romantische Strasse | 8a | 10 m | |
Scala reale | 7a+ | 10 m | |
C – Lastrone giallo (Yellow flake) | |||
Criticomania | 7a | 22 m | |
Highlander II | 7a | 22 m | |
Lucky Luke | 7a+ | 22 m | |
La rouge | 7a+ | 12 m | |
La rouge (to the right) | 7b | 14 m | |
Pugacioff | 8b+ | 17 m | |
Hells bells | 7c | 25 m | |
Atmosfera zero | 7c | 25 m | |
Blu notte | 8a+ | 20 m | |
Spit al popolo | 7c+ | 18 m | |
D – Avancorpo Cispan Basso | |||
Aladin | 5b | 20 m | |
Morgana | 6b | 17 m | |
Heidi | 5a | 20 m | |
E – Torre Trieste (Trieste tower) | |||
Trilly | 6a | 10 m | |
Peter Pan | 6a+ | 28 m | |
Via de Spiro | 5a | 28 m | |
Rebus | 6c | 30 m | |
? | 4a | 20 m | |
Pokemon | 4b | 20 m | |
Brontolo | 4b | 20 m | |
Contratempi | 6b | 30 m | |
Pokemon | 4b | 20 m | |
F – Salame e salamino | |||
Eta Beta | 6b+ | 28 m | |
Naftalina | 6c+ | 20 m | |
Spiro | 5a | 20 m | |
Cispan | 5a | 10 m | |
G – Avancorpo Cispan Alto | |||
Idefix | 6a+ | 15 m | |
Anacleto | 6b | 15 m | |
Artu | 5b | 18 m | |
Panoramix | 6b | 18 m | |
Falbala | 6a | 18 m | |
Asterix | 5b | 18 m | |
Obelix | 5b | 18 m | |
Merlino | 4b | 18 m | |
H – Parete bianca (White face) | |||
Passaggio de Spiro | 5c | 10 m | |
Passaggio facile | 3c | 10 m | |
I – Vedetta Italia | |||
Lupetto | 5c | 20 m | |
Stancherle | 6a+ | 20 m | |
Cucherle | 6a | 20 m | |
Titanic | 6a+ | 20 m | |
La vendetta dei nani | 7a+ | 20 m | |
Sognando California | 7b+ | 25 m | |
Menudaie | 8b | 25 m | |
Dr.Jekill and Mr.Hyde | 7a | 25 m | |
Desaparecidos | 8a+ | 25 m | |
Il miglio verde | 7c | 25 m | |
Oggi no | 7b+ | 25 m | |
Il clown | 6a | 25 m | |
J – Cristo | |||
Spigolo del Cristo | 6a | 20 m | |
Jesus Christ Masterfix | 6c | 20 m | |
Tonsai | 7a+ | 23 m | |
Heliopolys | 7a+ | 23 m | |
La rusine del Cristo | 6b+ | 23 m | |
Una storia sbagliata | 6b+ | 25 m | |
Punti cardinali | 6c+ | 25 m | |
Il belvedere | 6a | 16 m | |
Belvedere alto | P | 8 m | |
L’amore ha un solo colore | 8a | 16 m | |
Find your way | P | 15 m | |
Salto nel nulla | 6a | 15 m | |
Zazzeron! | 5c | 17 m | |
Placca de Cispan | 5b | 17 m | |
L’espirit de la grimpe | 5a | 14 m | |
L’espirit de la grimpe extension | 8a | 27 m | |
Pierin fa cose | 7c+ | 30 m | |
Bacer si prova | 8a | 30 m | |
Il viaggio del Icaro | 6c+ | 32 m | |
La scafe alte | 4b | 25 m | |
Il gabbiano e la poiana | 5c | 20 m | |
K – Piccolo cottolengo | |||
Lost angels | 6a | 18 m | |
Connexion | 6a | 20 m | |
Via di fuga | 6a | 20 m | |
Guru Gaspa | 7b | 20 m | |
MILF | 7b+ | 16 m | |
Takel | 7b | 20 m | |
La mia calmazia | 6c | 27 m | |
Hot line | 7b | 30 m | |
Coffee on sight | 7a | 26 m | |
Scorpio | 7a | 25 m | |
I marielli | 7a+ | 23 m | |
Il trasloco | 6b+ | 25 m | |
Nico’s moves | 6c+ | 20 m | |
Speedball | 7a+ | 23 m | |
Blaghers in arms | 6c | 25 m | |
L – Torre di Babele (Tower of Babel) | |||
? | 5a | 20 m | |
? | 5b | 20 m | |
S.O.S. | 6b+ | 20 m | |
Mistral | 6b | 20 m | |
? | 7b | 20 m | |
Torre di Babele | 7a+ | 20 m | |
L’estro del musico | 6b | 20 m | |
Senza catena | 6c+ | 20 m | |
Cucu | 6c+ | 20 m | |
? | 6a | 20 m | |
M – Bubulk tower | |||
Super Viki | 6c+ | 23 m | |
Sugli specchi | 6a+ | 25 m | |
Highlander | 6c | 20 m | |
Highlander extension | 7a+ | 30 m | |
Junc | 6a+ | 15 m | |
? | 6b | 22 m | |
Bubulk tower | 6c | 22 m | |
Bubulk tower extension | 6c+ | 22 m | |
Miramar | 6a | 18 m | |
Projet | 6c | 17 m | |
Projet extension | 7a | 30 m | |
N – Calabroni | |||
Animal house | 6b+ | 18 m | |
Malakas | 6c | 18 m | |
Ultimatum | 6b+ | 18 m | |
Cherry kiss | 7a | 18 m | |
El gonzo | 6c | 18 m | |
Herr Dulfer | 6a+ | 26 m | |
Diedro concavo | 5b | 30 m | |
Mai dopo i kosi | 5c | 30 m | |
Calabroni | 5c | 26 m | |
Arnica montana | 6b+ | 30 m | |
Reve de sardon | 6c+ | 12 m | |
Barracuda | 6c+ | 12 m | |
Sumar fluskur | 6c | 20 m | |
Pinna bianca | 6b | 22 m | |
Ascelle atomiche | 6c+ | 20 m | |
Dreamland | 6b+ | 20 m | |
Il grande vuoto | 6c | 16 m | |
Vitovska | 6b | 16 m | |
Piedi sensibili | 6c | 20 m | |
Muschio selvaggio | 6b | 24 m | |
Nein danke | 6a | 27 m | |
Sika no more | 6b+ | 22 m | |
Materia grigia | 6c | 22 m | |
Luna blu | 6b+ | 22 m | |
Bestia nera | 6c | 18 m | |
Sgrunf | 6c+ | 18 m | |
Spitfire | 6a+ | 16 m | |
Calabronication | 6b | 16 m | |
Mira el dito | 6b+ | 16 m | |
Violetta | 6b+ | 16 m | |
O – Grotta del cane (Dog’s cave) | |||
Atti vandalici | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Promozione | 5a | 12 m | |
Diarrea | 5a | 8 m | |
La cascata | 6a+ | 12 m | |
La fontana | 6c+ | 12 m | |
Scorpions | 7b | 15 m | |
Oklahoma | 7c+ | 15 m | |
Il parassita | 7c | 13 m | |
Absolutely free | 8a | 15 m | |
Skywalker | 8a+ | 15 m | |
Martedi grasso | 8a | 13 m | |
El muzzin | 8a+ | 13 m | |
Veronica | 7c+ | 12 m | |
Jojelly | P | 12 m | |
Micio | 7b | 11 m | |
Gaston | 6c+ | 7 m | |
P – Olimpo | |||
La scala dei Ziganti | 4a | 12 m | |
? | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Please don’t fly | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Ramses | 6b+ | 12 m | |
Nefertari | 6b | 12 m | |
Paperinik | 5c | 12 m | |
Andromacus | 5c | 12 m | |
Apollo | 6b+ | 12 m | |
Cracatoa | 6a+ | 12 m | |
Afrodite | 6b | 12 m | |
Timo | 7a | 12 m | |
Damocle | 7a+ | 10 m | |
R – Luna park | |||
Jailbreak | 5c | 9 m | |
Una favola per Nicola | 4c | 24 m | |
La guantiera pirata | 5a | 18 m | |
Il vassoio fantasma | 6a+ | 22 m | |
Tagada | 7a | 24 m | |
Yu mast | 7a+ | 20 m | |
Diedro bianco | 5c | 22 m | |
Burpy | 6a | 22 m | |
Via dalla pazza folla | 5a | 20 m | |
S – Paralelle | |||
La fessura | 5a | 20 m | |
La fonte della giovinezza | 4a | 20 m | |
La via accanto | 4a | 18 m | |
Orecchie d’asino | 4c | 17 m | |
Brodo way | 6c | 19 m | |
Il tagliaerbe | 6b | 18 m | |
Algatraz | 6b | 18 m | |
Il giro del pirata | 4c | 18 m | |
Equinozio | 5c | 23 m | |
Ezio e le storie tese | 6a+ | 24 m | |
Nave scuola | 4b | 22 m | |
Calimero | 6b | 28 m | |
La parallele | 5b+ | 22 m | |
Campanula piramidale | 4c | 28 m | |
Ho bisogno di te | 3a | 8 m | |
Corso 98 | 3 | 10 m | |
T – Mano di Fatima | |||
Ushuaia | 7a+ | 14 m | |
This is not Hollywood | 6c | 14 m | |
Mano di Fatima | 6a | 15 m | |
Maktub | 6c | 15 m | |
Surimono | 6b+ | 15 m | |
La guerra dei nervi | 7c+ | 18 m | |
Sbisigando con l’orango | 8b+ | 20 m | |
Sacro e profano | 8b | 20 m | |
Il padrone assoluto | 8a | 20 m | |
Harakiri | 7c | 10 m | |
Harakiri kiki | 8a+ | 18 m | |
L’obliqua | 7b+ | 13 m | |
L’obliqua plus | 8a | 18 m | |
Banzai | 7b | 10 m | |
Banzai extension | 8a+ | 18 m | |
Gocce di saggezza | 6a | 13 m | |
Lemuri | 8b+ | 18 m | |
Confucio | 6c+ | 15 m | |
Il cipresso net cortile | 6c | 16 m | |
Veleno per il cuore | 7a | 16 m | |
Shobogenzoo | 6b+ | 16 m | |
Sol levante | 5b | 16 m | |
U – Serpente (Snake) | |||
L’ombra del falco | 5b | 20 m | |
Oberon e Titania | 6a | 20 m | |
La dama delle eufobie | 6b | 20 m | |
Hellas | 6a | 20 m | |
Via del serpente | 5c | 23 m | |
L’onomastico | 7a | 20 m | |
Diagonalka | 6c | 22 m | |
Corto maltese | 5c | 20 m | |
V – Occhiali (Glasses) | |||
50 | 6a | 12 m | |
Troppo bella | 5b | 12 m | |
Larrampuscolo | 6a+ | 25 m | |
Larampuscolo direct | 6c+ | 25 m | |
Variante Jurejev | 6b+ | 8 m | |
Capitan Hakerle | 6b | 25 m | |
Luna rossa | 7a | 20 m | |
Gli occhiali | 6a+ | 20 m | |
Gli occhiali extension | 6b+ | 27 m | |
Spazio libero | 6c+ | 25 m | |
Gnappy | 6a | 25 m | |
Galla forcella | 6c+ | 16 m | |
… e cugina Cedrona | 6b+ | 16 m | |
L’edera della placca | 5b | 15 m | |
Il camino dell’edera | 5b | 15 m | |
Juao | 6b | 15 m | |
Fuma fuma merlo | 6c | 15 m | |
Z – La Cuenca | |||
Pietra franabila | 6b | 15 m | |
El cadin | 6b+ | 15 m | |
La sposa furiosa | 6b | 15 m | |
Il terente Collombrello | 5a | 15 m | |
Body tension | 6b+ | 15 m | |
Jump club | 6c | 15 m | |
La sfinge | 5c | 12 m | |
Guida ballerino | 6a | 12 m | |
Zoccolina nera | 6b | 12 m | |
La panchina | 5c | 20 m | |
Climbing a muerte | 6a | 16 m | |
Il calzolaio matto | 6a+ | 16 m | |
The best man | 6a | 16 m |