Napoleonica

Napoleonica is a huge crag and a home to a proud group of Trieste climbers, who can be seen scurrying along the famous traverses on the foot of the crag. This is a true family climbing spot, even if “papa“ likes to send an 8 or two – as long as he prefers polished vertical walls. The older part is situated beside the road. The routes are artificial and polished, but the newer sectors lie below the road – with excellent Calabrone and Mano di Fatima, which brought true renaissance to the Napa crag.

ACCESS
Drive on the highway A4 from Trieste/Fernetti in the direction of Venezia (Venice). Get off at Prosecco exit. When you pass Lanza center (on your right), turn left and immediately left again, then after a couple of meters turn right on a side road to Monte Grisa. Follow the straight road to a peculiar crossroad, where you turn right until a T intersection, where you go left. This is the beginning of a long and big parking lot, on the end of which the crag starts. You may still have to walk quite a bit up or down on the scree to get to some sectors, but it‘s usually worth it. You can sometimes make a shortcut with abseil (eg. Piccolo cottolengo), and sometimes you have to climb to a sector (Parete bianca).

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PARKING GPS
P1 N 45°69’78.55”, E 13°74’17.51”

P2 N 45°69’67.83”, E 13°74’07.17”

WEATHER
In the summer the weather is too hot, except in the parts in the shade and in the morning or evening. Rain will also chase you to the nearest bar. But the exposition is extremely sunny, so you can climb here during the whole winter (on a sunny day) and of course spring and autumn. Some routes do tend to get wet.

QUALITY
The rock is fantastic. Especially by the road the last broken hold is dated in the times of Napoleon. You can‘t complain over the equipment either – although it varies from ancient to “yesterday‘s“. The routes mostly have anchors with biners on top, but you have to retie your rope occasionaly. The comfort under the wall by the road is unparalleled, while in other sectors it‘s generally OK – if you survive the approach.

GEAR
The routes aren‘t too long (around 30 m tops), but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring a few extra quickdraws.

ROUTES
The routes are mostly vertical, with an exception now and then and the sectors Mano di Fatima and Grotta di Cane (where power and dynamics is required). The climbing is usually technical and precise. A lot of times accurate beta is very helpful. Watch out on the older routes – just because a local climber is running up the route, it may not apply to you, despite the “low“ grade. The rock here was cut for the passing road, and the holds prove it – often they are polished like… racing car tires.

NOTES
You can go to sector Calabrone only down the hill from the road. Be careful not to roll stones on a private property below you.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Classica
Texi	5a	12 m
Franehica	5b	12 m
Spigolo giallo	6a	12 m
Mr.Grease	6a	12 m
Carioca	6a	12 m
Varianta	6a+	12 m
Isidora	6a	12 m
Mago Merlino	6a+	12 m
No Arci	6a	12 m
Bombastic	5c	12 m
J.Arg	5c	12 m
Old time	5b	12 m
Stu ledi	5b	10 m
Napo games	6a	10 m
Rock labirinth	6c	10 m
Clorophille	6b+	10 m
Cico	4c	10 m
Ra artu	6a+	12 m
Mumble	5c	12 m
Q6	6a	12 m
Q7	5c	12 m
Irish caffe	5c	10 m
Black out	6b	10 m
B.P.S.	6a+	12 m
Bananarama	5c	12 m
La via del teran	6b	12 m
Stinger	6b	12 m
?	5c	12 m
?	5a	12 m
?	5c	12 m
B – Scudo (The shield)
Mr.Crocodile	7a+	12 m
Managua	7a+	15 m
Ratataplan	7b	17 m
Mud club	8a+	18 m
Telefono azzurro	7a+	19 m
Scudo	7a+	20 m
La galina zota	8b	20 m
Wild wind	8a	20 m
Scacco matto	8b	18 m
Poker d’assi	7c+	18 m
Orcobaleno	8b	15 m
Romantische Strasse	8a	10 m
Scala reale	7a+	10 m
C – Lastrone giallo (Yellow flake)
Criticomania	7a	22 m
Highlander II	7a	22 m
Lucky Luke	7a+	22 m
La rouge	7a+	12 m
La rouge (to the right)	7b	14 m
Pugacioff	8b+	17 m
Hells bells	7c	25 m
Atmosfera zero	7c	25 m
Blu notte	8a+	20 m
Spit al popolo	7c+	18 m
D – Avancorpo Cispan Basso
Aladin	5b	20 m
Morgana	6b	17 m
Heidi	5a	20 m
E – Torre Trieste (Trieste tower)
Trilly	6a	10 m
Peter Pan	6a+	28 m
Via de Spiro	5a	28 m
Rebus	6c	30 m
?	4a	20 m
Pokemon	4b	20 m
Brontolo	4b	20 m
Contratempi	6b	30 m
Pokemon	4b	20 m
F – Salame e salamino
Eta Beta	6b+	28 m
Naftalina	6c+	20 m
Spiro	5a	20 m
Cispan	5a	10 m
G – Avancorpo Cispan Alto
Idefix	6a+	15 m
Anacleto	6b	15 m
Artu	5b	18 m
Panoramix	6b	18 m
Falbala	6a	18 m
Asterix	5b	18 m
Obelix	5b	18 m
Merlino	4b	18 m
H – Parete bianca (White face)
Passaggio de Spiro	5c	10 m
Passaggio facile	3c	10 m
I – Vedetta Italia
Lupetto	5c	20 m
Stancherle	6a+	20 m
Cucherle	6a	20 m
Titanic	6a+	20 m
La vendetta dei nani	7a+	20 m
Sognando California	7b+	25 m
Menudaie	8b	25 m
Dr.Jekill and Mr.Hyde	7a	25 m
Desaparecidos	8a+	25 m
Il miglio verde	7c	25 m
Oggi no	7b+	25 m
Il clown	6a	25 m
J – Cristo
Spigolo del Cristo	6a	20 m
Jesus Christ Masterfix	6c	20 m
Tonsai	7a+	23 m
Heliopolys	7a+	23 m
La rusine del Cristo	6b+	23 m
Una storia sbagliata	6b+	25 m
Punti cardinali	6c+	25 m
Il belvedere	6a	16 m
Belvedere alto	P	8 m
L’amore ha un solo colore	8a	16 m
Find your way	P	15 m
Salto nel nulla	6a	15 m
Zazzeron!	5c	17 m
Placca de Cispan	5b	17 m
L’espirit de la grimpe	5a	14 m
L’espirit de la grimpe extension	8a	27 m
Pierin fa cose	7c+	30 m
Bacer si prova	8a	30 m
Il viaggio del Icaro	6c+	32 m
La scafe alte	4b	25 m
Il gabbiano e la poiana	5c	20 m
K – Piccolo cottolengo
Lost angels	6a	18 m
Connexion	6a	20 m
Via di fuga	6a	20 m
Guru Gaspa	7b	20 m
MILF	7b+	16 m
Takel	7b	20 m
La mia calmazia	6c	27 m
Hot line	7b	30 m
Coffee on sight	7a	26 m
Scorpio	7a	25 m
I marielli	7a+	23 m
Il trasloco	6b+	25 m
Nico’s moves	6c+	20 m
Speedball	7a+	23 m
Blaghers in arms	6c	25 m
L – Torre di Babele (Tower of Babel)
?	5a	20 m
?	5b	20 m
S.O.S.	6b+	20 m
Mistral	6b	20 m
?	7b	20 m
Torre di Babele	7a+	20 m
L’estro del musico	6b	20 m
Senza catena	6c+	20 m
Cucu	6c+	20 m
?	6a	20 m
M – Bubulk tower
Super Viki	6c+	23 m
Sugli specchi	6a+	25 m
Highlander	6c	20 m
Highlander extension	7a+	30 m
Junc	6a+	15 m
?	6b	22 m
Bubulk tower	6c	22 m
Bubulk tower extension	6c+	22 m
Miramar	6a	18 m
Projet	6c	17 m
Projet extension	7a	30 m
N – Calabroni
Animal house	6b+	18 m
Malakas	6c	18 m
Ultimatum	6b+	18 m
Cherry kiss	7a	18 m
El gonzo	6c	18 m
Herr Dulfer	6a+	26 m
Diedro concavo	5b	30 m
Mai dopo i kosi	5c	30 m
Calabroni	5c	26 m
Arnica montana	6b+	30 m
Reve de sardon	6c+	12 m
Barracuda	6c+	12 m
Sumar fluskur	6c	20 m
Pinna bianca	6b	22 m
Ascelle atomiche	6c+	20 m
Dreamland	6b+	20 m
Il grande vuoto	6c	16 m
Vitovska	6b	16 m
Piedi sensibili	6c	20 m
Muschio selvaggio	6b	24 m
Nein danke	6a	27 m
Sika no more	6b+	22 m
Materia grigia	6c	22 m
Luna blu	6b+	22 m
Bestia nera	6c	18 m
Sgrunf	6c+	18 m
Spitfire	6a+	16 m
Calabronication	6b	16 m
Mira el dito	6b+	16 m
Violetta	6b+	16 m
O – Grotta del cane (Dog’s cave)
Atti vandalici	6a+	12 m
Promozione	5a	12 m
Diarrea	5a	8 m
La cascata	6a+	12 m
La fontana	6c+	12 m
Scorpions	7b	15 m
Oklahoma	7c+	15 m
Il parassita	7c	13 m
Absolutely free	8a	15 m
Skywalker	8a+	15 m
Martedi grasso	8a	13 m
El muzzin	8a+	13 m
Veronica	7c+	12 m
Jojelly	P	12 m
Micio	7b	11 m
Gaston	6c+	7 m
P – Olimpo
La scala dei Ziganti	4a	12 m
?	6a+	12 m
Please don’t fly	6a+	12 m
Ramses	6b+	12 m
Nefertari	6b	12 m
Paperinik	5c	12 m
Andromacus	5c	12 m
Apollo	6b+	12 m
Cracatoa	6a+	12 m
Afrodite	6b	12 m
Timo	7a	12 m
Damocle	7a+	10 m
R – Luna park
Jailbreak	5c	9 m
Una favola per Nicola	4c	24 m
La guantiera pirata	5a	18 m
Il vassoio fantasma	6a+	22 m
Tagada	7a	24 m
Yu mast	7a+	20 m
Diedro bianco	5c	22 m
Burpy	6a	22 m
Via dalla pazza folla	5a	20 m
S – Paralelle
La fessura	5a	20 m
La fonte della giovinezza	4a	20 m
La via accanto	4a	18 m
Orecchie d’asino	4c	17 m
Brodo way	6c	19 m
Il tagliaerbe	6b	18 m
Algatraz	6b	18 m
Il giro del pirata	4c	18 m
Equinozio	5c	23 m
Ezio e le storie tese	6a+	24 m
Nave scuola	4b	22 m
Calimero	6b	28 m
La parallele	5b+	22 m
Campanula piramidale	4c	28 m
Ho bisogno di te	3a	8 m
Corso 98	3	10 m
T – Mano di Fatima
Ushuaia	7a+	14 m
This is not Hollywood	6c	14 m
Mano di Fatima	6a	15 m
Maktub	6c	15 m
Surimono	6b+	15 m
La guerra dei nervi	7c+	18 m
Sbisigando con l’orango	8b+	20 m
Sacro e profano	8b	20 m
Il padrone assoluto	8a	20 m
Harakiri	7c	10 m
Harakiri kiki	8a+	18 m
L’obliqua	7b+	13 m
L’obliqua plus	8a	18 m
Banzai	7b	10 m
Banzai extension	8a+	18 m
Gocce di saggezza	6a	13 m
Lemuri	8b+	18 m
Confucio	6c+	15 m
Il cipresso net cortile	6c	16 m
Veleno per il cuore	7a	16 m
Shobogenzoo	6b+	16 m
Sol levante	5b	16 m
U – Serpente (Snake)
L’ombra del falco	5b	20 m
Oberon e Titania	6a	20 m
La dama delle eufobie	6b	20 m
Hellas	6a	20 m
Via del serpente	5c	23 m
L’onomastico	7a	20 m
Diagonalka	6c	22 m
Corto maltese	5c	20 m
V – Occhiali (Glasses)
50	6a	12 m
Troppo bella	5b	12 m
Larrampuscolo	6a+	25 m
Larampuscolo direct	6c+	25 m
Variante Jurejev	6b+	8 m
Capitan Hakerle	6b	25 m
Luna rossa	7a	20 m
Gli occhiali	6a+	20 m
Gli occhiali extension	6b+	27 m
Spazio libero	6c+	25 m
Gnappy	6a	25 m
Galla forcella	6c+	16 m
… e cugina Cedrona	6b+	16 m
L’edera della placca	5b	15 m
Il camino dell’edera	5b	15 m
Juao	6b	15 m
Fuma fuma merlo	6c	15 m
Z – La Cuenca
Pietra franabila	6b	15 m
El cadin	6b+	15 m
La sposa furiosa	6b	15 m
Il terente Collombrello	5a	15 m
Body tension	6b+	15 m
Jump club	6c	15 m
La sfinge	5c	12 m
Guida ballerino	6a	12 m
Zoccolina nera	6b	12 m
La panchina	5c	20 m
Climbing a muerte	6a	16 m
Il calzolaio matto	6a+	16 m
The best man	6a	16 m