Napoleonica

Napoleonica is a huge crag and a home to a proud group of Trieste climbers, who can be seen scurrying along the famous traverses on the foot of the crag. This is a true family climbing spot, even if “papa“ likes to send an 8 or two – as long as he prefers polished vertical walls. The older part is situated beside the road. The routes are artificial and polished, but the newer sectors lie below the road – with excellent Calabrone and Mano di Fatima, which brought true renaissance to the Napa crag.

 

ACCESS
Drive on the highway A4 from Trieste/Fernetti in the direction of Venezia (Venice). Get off at Prosecco exit. When you pass Lanza center (on your right), turn left and immediately left again, then after a couple of meters turn right on a side road to Monte Grisa. Follow the straight road to a peculiar crossroad, where you turn right until a T intersection, where you go left. This is the beginning of a long and big parking lot, on the end of which the crag starts. You may still have to walk quite a bit up or down on the scree to get to some sectors, but it‘s usually worth it. You can sometimes make a shortcut with abseil (eg. Piccolo cottolengo), and sometimes you have to climb to a sector (Parete bianca).


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PARKING GPS
N 45°34’16.9”, E 13°51’29.0”

WEATHER
In the summer the weather is too hot, except in the parts in the shade and in the morning or evening. Rain will also chase you to the nearest bar. But the exposition is extremely sunny, so you can climb here during the whole winter (on a sunny day) and of course spring and autumn. Some routes do tend to get wet.

QUALITY
The rock is fantastic. Especially by the road the last broken hold is dated in the times of Napoleon. You can‘t complain over the equipment either – although it varies from ancient to “yesterday‘s“. The routes mostly have anchors with biners on top, but you have to retie your rope occasionaly. The comfort under the wall by the road is unparalleled, while in other sectors it‘s generally OK – if you survive the approach.

GEAR
The routes aren‘t too long (around 30 m tops), but the new ones are generously bolted, so bring a few extra quickdraws.

ROUTES
The routes are mostly vertical, with an exception now and then and the sectors Mano di Fatima and Grotta di Cane (where power and dynamics is required). The climbing is usually technical and precise. A lot of times accurate beta is very helpful. Watch out on the older routes – just because a local climber is running up the route, it may not apply to you, despite the “low“ grade. The rock here was cut for the passing road, and the holds prove it – often they are polished like… racing car tires.

NOTES
You can go to sector Calabrone only down the hill from the road. Be careful not to roll stones on a private property below you.

SLEEP we had experienced…

ocizla_crHostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

 

Rooms HrpeljeRooms Hrpelje, Reška cesta 43, Hrpleje, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 40 874 475; [email protected]

Rooms Hrpelje are located in a new building in Hrpelje, really close to climber’s paradise of Mišja peč, Osp, Črni kal,… Rooms Hrpelje offer private rooms with a private bathroom for 2,3 or 4 persons, common kitchen, parking place, free wi-fi and TV. In the same building complex, there is a small market and a restaurant where you can buy or order your breakfast in advance, respectively.

 

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Classica
Texi 5a 12 m
Franehica 5b 12 m
Spigolo giallo 6a 12 m
Mr.Grease 6a 12 m
Carioca 6a 12 m
Varianta 6a+ 12 m
Isidora 6a 12 m
Mago Merlino 6a+ 12 m
No Arci 6a 12 m
Bombastic 5c 12 m
J.Arg 5c 12 m
Old time 5b 12 m
Stu ledi 5b 10 m
Napo games 6a 10 m
Rock labirinth 6c 10 m
Clorophille 6b+ 10 m
Cico 4c 10 m
Ra artu 6a+ 12 m
Mumble 5c 12 m
Q6 6a 12 m
Q7 5c 12 m
Irish caffe 5c 10 m
Black out 6b 10 m
B.P.S. 6a+ 12 m
Bananarama 5c 12 m
Gratta e vinci 6a+ 12 m
Cuba libre 7b+ 10 m
La via del teran 6b 12 m
Stinger 6b 12 m
B – Scudo (The shield)
Mr.Crocodile 7b 12 m
Managua 7b 15 m
Managua extension 7b+ 17 m
Ratataplan 7b 17 m
Mud club 8a+ 18 m
Telefono azzurro 7a+ 19 m
Scudo 7a+ 20 m
Wild wind 8a 20 m
Poker direkt 8b 18 m
Poker d’assi 7c+ 18 m
Orcobaleno 8b 15 m
Romantische Strasse 8a 10 m
Scala reale 7a+ 10 m
C – Lastrone giallo (Yellow flake)
Highlander II 7a 22 m
Criticomania 7a 22 m
Lucky Luke 7b 22 m
La rouge 7a+ 12 m
La rouge (to the right) 7b 14 m
Pugacioff 8b+ 17 m
Hells bells 7c 25 m
Atmosfera zero 7c 25 m
Blu notte 8a+ 20 m
D – Avancorpo Cispan
Aladin 5b 20 m
Morgana 6b 17 m
Heidi 5a 20 m
E – Torre Trieste (Trieste tower)
Trilly 6a 10 m
Peter Pan 6a+ 28 m
Via de Spiro 5a 28 m
Rebus 6c 30 m
Prečnica 4b 20 m
Brontolo 5a 20 m
Contratempi 6b 30 m
Pokemon 4b 20 m
F – Salame e salamino
Eta Beta 6b 28 m
Naftalina 6c 20 m
Spiro 5a 20 m
Cispan 5a 10 m
G – Avancorpo Cispan
Idefix 6a+ 15 m
Anacleto 6b 15 m
Artu 5b 18 m
Panoramix 6b 18 m
Falbala 5c 18 m
Asterix 5b 18 m
Obelix 5c 18 m
Merlino 4c 18 m
H – Parete bianca (White face)
Passaggio de Spiro 5c 10 m
Passaggio facile 3c 10 m
I – Vedetta Italia
Lupetto 5c 20 m
Stancherle 6a+ 20 m
Cucherle 6a 20 m
Titanic 6a+ 20 m
La vendetta dei nani 7a+ 20 m
Sognando California 7b+ 25 m
Menudaie 8b 25 m
Dr.Jekill and Mr.Hyde 7a 25 m
Desaparecidos 8a+ 25 m
Il miglio verde 7c 25 m
Oggi no 7b+ 25 m
Il clown 6a 25 m
J – Cristo
Spigolo del Cristo 6a 20 m
Jesus Christ Masterfix 6c 20 m
Tonsai 7a+ 23 m
Heliopolys 7a+ 23 m
La rusine del Cristo 6c 23 m
Una storia sbagliata 6b+ 25 m
Punti cardinali 6c+ 25 m
Il belvedere 6a 16 m
Find your way P 31 m
Salto nel nulla 6a 15 m
Zazzeron! 5c 17 m
Placca de Cispan 5b 17 m
L’espirit de la grimpe 5a 14 m
L’espirit de la grimpe extension 8a 27 m
Il viaggio del Icaro 6c+ 32 m
La scafe alte 4b 25 m
Il gabbiano e la poiana 5c 20 m
K – Piccolo cottolengo
Lost angels 6a 18 m
Connexion 6a 20 m
Via di fuga 6a+ 20 m
Guru Gaspa 7b 20 m
MILF 7b 16 m
Takel 7b+ 20 m
La mia calmazia 6c 27 m
Hot line 7b+ 30 m
Coffee on sight 7a+ 26 m
Scorpio 7a 25 m
I marielli 7b 23 m
Il trasloco 6b+ 25 m
Nico’s moves 6c+ 20 m
Speedball 7a+ 23 m
Blaghers in arms 6c 25 m
L – Torre di Babele (Tower of Babel)
S.O.S. 6b+ 20 m
Mistral 6b 20 m
Torre di Babele 7a+ 20 m
L’estro del musico 6b 20 m
Senza catena 6c+ 20 m
Cucu 6c+ 20 m
M – Bubulk tower
Super Viki 7a 23 m
Sugli specchi 6b 25 m
Highlander 6c 20 m
Highlander extension 7a+ 30 m
Junc 6a+ 15 m
? 6b 22 m
Miramar 6a 18 m
Bubulk tower 6c 22 m
Bubulk tower extension 6c+ 22 m
Projet 6c 17 m
Projet extension 7a 30 m
N – Calabroni
Animal house 6b+ 18 m
Ultimatum 6b+ 18 m
Cherry kiss 7a 18 m
El gonzo 6c 18 m
Herr Dulfer 6a+ 26 m
Diedro concavo 5b 30 m
Mai dopo i kosi 5c 30 m
Calabroni 5c 26 m
Arnica montana 6b+ 30 m
Reve de sardon 6c+ 12 m
Barracuda 6c+ 12 m
Sumar fluskur 6c 20 m
Pinna bianca 6b 22 m
Ascelle atomiche 6c+ 20 m
Dreamland 6b+ 20 m
Il grande vuoto 6c 16 m
Vitovska 6b 16 m
Piedi sensibili 6c 20 m
Muschio selvaggio 6b 24 m
Nein danke 6a+ 27 m
Sika no more 6b+ 22 m
Materia grigia 6c 22 m
Luna blu 6b+ 22 m
Bestia nera 6c 18 m
Sgrunf 6c+ 18 m
Spitfire 6a+ 16 m
Calabronication 6b 16 m
Mira el dito 6b+ 16 m
Violetta 6b+ 16 m
O – Grotta del cane (Dog’s cave)
Atti vandalici 6a+ 12 m
Promozione 5a 12 m
Diarrea 5a 8 m
La cascata 6a+ 12 m
La fontana 6c+ 12 m
Scorpions 7b 15 m
Il parassita 7c 13 m
Oklahoma 7c+ 15 m
Absoluely free 8a 15 m
Skywalker 8a+ 15 m
Martedi grasso 8a 13 m
El muzzin P 13 m
Veronica 7c+ 12 m
Jojelly P 12 m
Micio 7b+ 11 m
Gaston 6c+ 7 m
P – Olimpo
La scala dei Ziganti 4a 12 m
? 6a+ 12 m
Please don’t fly 6a+ 12 m
Ramses 6b+ 12 m
Nefertari 6b 12 m
Paperinik 5c 12 m
Andromacus 5c+ 12 m
Apollo 6b+ 12 m
Cracatoa 6a+ 12 m
Afrodite 6b+ 12 m
Timo 7a 12 m
Damocle 7a+ 10 m
R – Luna park
Jailbreak 5c 9 m
Una favola per Nicola 4c 24 m
La guantiera pirata 5a 18 m
Il vassoio fantasma 6a+ 22 m
Tagada 7a 24 m
Yu mast 7a+ 20 m
Diedro bianco 5c 22 m
Burpy 5c+ 22 m
Via dalla pazza folla 5a 20 m
S – Paralelle
La fessura 5a 20 m
La fonte della giovinezza 4a 20 m
La via accanto 4a 18 m
Orecchie d’asino 4c 17 m
Brodo way 6c 19 m
Il tagliaerbe 6b 18 m
Algatraz 6b 18 m
Il giro del pirata 4c 18 m
Equinozio 5c 23 m
Ezio e le storie tese 6a+ 24 m
Nave scuola 4b 22 m
Calimero 6b 28 m
La parallele 5b+ 22 m
Campanula piramidale 4c 28 m
Ho bisogno di te 3a 8 m
Corso 98 3 10 m
T – Mano di Fatima
Ushuaia 7a+ 14 m
This is not Hollywood 6c 14 m
Mano di Fatima 6a 15 m
Maktub 6c+ 15 m
Surimono 6c 15 m
La guerra dei nervi 7c+ 18 m
Sbisigando con l’orango 8b+ 20 m
Sacroe profano 8b 20 m
Il padrone assoluto 8a 20 m
Harakiri 7c 10 m
Harakiri kiki 8a+ 18 m
L’obliqua 7b+ 13 m
L’obliqua plus 8a 18 m
Banzai 7b 10 m
Banzai extension 8a+ 18 m
Gocce di saggezza 6a+ 13 m
Lemuri 8b+ 18 m
Confucio 6c+ 15 m
Il cipresso net cortile 6c 16 m
Veleno per il cuore 7a 16 m
Shobogenzoo 6b+ 16 m
Sol levante 5b 16 m
U – Serpente (Snake)
? 5a 20 m
Oberon e Titania 6a+ 20 m
La dama delle eufobie 6b 20 m
Hellas 6a 20 m
Via del serpente 5c 23 m
L’onomastico 7a 20 m
Diagonalka 6c 22 m
Corto maltese 5c 20 m
V – Occhiali (Glasses)
50 6a 12 m
Troppo bella 5b 12 m
Larrampuscolo 6a+ 25 m
Larampuscolo direct 6c+ 25 m
Variante Jurejev 6b+ 8 m
Capitan Hakerle 6b 25 m
Luna rossa 7a 20 m
Gli occhiali 6a+ 20 m
Gli occhiali extension 6b+ 27 m
Spazio libero 6c+ 25 m
Gnappy 6a 25 m
Galla forcella 6c+ 16 m
… e cugina Cedrona 6b+ 16 m
L’edera della placca 5b 15 m
Il camino dell’edera 5b 15 m
Juao 6b 15 m
Fuma fuma merlo 6c 15 m
Z – La Cuenca
Pietra franabila 6b 15 m
El cadin 6b+ 15 m
La sposa furiosa 6b 15 m
Il terente Collombrello 5a 15 m
Jump club 6c 15 m
La sfinge 5c 12 m
Guida ballerino 6a 12 m
Zoccolina nera 6b 12 m
La panchina 5c 20 m
Climbing a muerte 6a 16 m
Il calzolaio matto 6a+ 16 m
The best man 6a 16 m
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