The crag could hardly be better situated – on a lawn right beside the sea. Sadly the superlatives start to end here. The selection of routes is not bad for beginners, if they like vertical walls, that are at times bolted far apart. The biggest drawback is a water purifying plant directly below the wall. That makes the quality of your trip here depend on the direction of the wind. But the rock wall is high and wide and even if you are a bit picky, you can find enough routes. If the equipping of new routes continues, Sistiana may well have a nice future ahead.
Take the motorway A4 and leave it at Sistiana exit (with another right turn shortly after). At the intersection go right and drive straight through the town. After a right bend be mindful for a left turn marked Sistiana Mare (go sharp left). The winding road will get you to a parking in the marina. In summer you can park your car below the wall for a fee. Then take a short stroll along the beach to the crag. The newer sectors are dotted on the right side and are pretty obvious.
P1 N 45°77’07.78”, E 13°63’07.84”; P2 N 45°76’97.85”, E 13°62’41.44
This is a crag for a nice sunny day – but not too sunny, or else you will slide down the vertical rock. When the temperatures get higher, you can try your luck in the afternoon shade . If it rains stay inside and drink your coffee. But the wall dries up fast.
The rock was always considered extremely solid, but then recently a big chunk broke off, destroying the whole first route. The rest is still considered OK, but you never know… The bolts are a different story – they vary from new, freshly re-bolted to old and rusty chunks of metal. The walls around the main sector are full of old routes, many of which are aid climbs. The base of the crag is perfect, especially if your nose is stuffed up.
Some routes are laughably short while others are hellishly long – but you can re-tie in most of them in the middle (if you run out of rope). The quickdraws can be far apart, but still take at least 12 for the long routes.
Beginners are wise to take an experienced co-climber, who can handle the vertical wall and is not scared easily. Otherwise, sharpen your rock shoes and prepare to climb vertical technical pieces. Some slabby routes, are even without holds at times. You need multipitch knowledge to climb newer routes, that criss cross the wall. But they are fresh and nicely bolted.
Negative remarks from the intro aside, it has to be said, that Sistiana is lately very lively, fueled by the enthusiasm of climbers from Monfalcone.
ROUTES (from left to right):
|Operazione delfino||5a+||19 m|
|Comici sx||5c||20 m|
|Comici sx extension||5c||37 m|
|Amici miei||6a||18 m|
|Comici dx||6a||20 m|
|Non ti scordar da me||6b+||25 m|
|Medaglia di sbronzo||5a||22 m|
|Medaglia di sbronzo extension||6c||39 m|
|Aventura extension||5c||42 m|
|Via del pino||4c||25 m|
|Via del pino extension||4c||40 m|
|Nei colori di giorno||5a+||45 m|
|Occhi azzurri sul golfo||6a+||37 m|
|Panza sinistra||5c||32 m|
|Panza destra||5c||20 m|
|Panza destra extension||6a||35 m|
|Stella marine||5c||20 m|
|Stella marine extension||6a+||40 m|
|Aqua chiara||6b+||20 m|
|Falso movimento||7b||23 m|
|Pietre colorate||6c||40 m|
|Rigole extension||5a+||27 m|
|Aria nuova||6a+||35 m|
|Pesce d’aprile||7a||25 m|
|Nel blu||6b+||25 m|
|Questione di feeling||6a||25 m|
|A tutta birra||5a||20 m|
|Succo e polpa||5c||20 m|
|Rolling stones||6a||35 m|
|Kabuk extension||6a||40 m|
|Spacatura extension||6a+||35 m|
|Kalman extension||6a+||40 m|
|Suora e Riccio||6a+||30 m|