Sistiana

The crag could hardly be better situated – on a lawn right beside the sea. Sadly the superlatives start to end here. The selection of routes is not bad for beginners, if they like vertical walls, that are at times bolted far apart. The biggest drawback is a water purifying plant directly below the wall. That makes the quality of your trip here depend on the direction of the wind. But the rock wall is high and wide and even if you are a bit picky, you can find enough routes. If the equipping of new routes continues, Sistiana may well have a nice future ahead.

ACCESS
Take the motorway A4 and leave it at Sistiana exit (with another right turn shortly after). At the intersection go right and drive straight through the town. After a right bend be mindful for a left turn marked Sistiana Mare (go sharp left). The winding road will get you to a parking in the marina. In summer you can park your car below the wall for a fee. Then take a short stroll along the beach to the crag. The newer sectors are dotted on the right side and are pretty obvious.

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PARKING GPS:
P1 N 45°77’07.78”, E 13°63’07.84”; P2 N 45°76’97.85”, E 13°62’41.44

WEATHER
This is a crag for a nice sunny day – but not too sunny, or else you will slide down the vertical rock. When the temperatures get higher, you can try your luck in the afternoon shade . If it rains stay inside and drink your coffee. But the wall dries up fast.

QUALITY
The rock was always considered extremely solid, but then recently a big chunk broke off, destroying the whole first route. The rest is still considered OK, but you never know… The bolts are a different story – they vary from new, freshly re-bolted to old and rusty chunks of metal. The walls around the main sector are full of old routes, many of which are aid climbs. The base of the crag is perfect, especially if your nose is stuffed up.

GEAR
Some routes are laughably short while others are hellishly long – but you can re-tie in most of them in the middle (if you run out of rope). The quickdraws can be far apart, but still take at least 12 for the long routes.

ROUTES
Beginners are wise to take an experienced co-climber, who can handle the vertical wall and is not scared easily. Otherwise, sharpen your rock shoes and prepare to climb vertical technical pieces. Some slabby routes, are even without holds at times. You need multipitch knowledge to climb newer routes, that criss cross the wall. But they are fresh and nicely bolted.

NOTES
Negative remarks from the intro aside, it has to be said, that Sistiana is lately very lively, fueled by the enthusiasm of climbers from Monfalcone.

ROUTES (from left to right):

Operazione delfino	5a+	19 m
Comici sx	5c	20 m
Comici sx extension	5c	37 m
Amici miei	6a	18 m
Comici dx	6a	20 m
Non ti scordar da me	6b+	25 m
Medaglia di sbronzo	5a	22 m
Medaglia di sbronzo extension	6c	39 m
Aventura	5a	22 m
Aventura extension	5c	42 m
Via del pino	4c	25 m
Via del pino extension	4c	40 m
Nei colori di giorno	5a+	45 m
Occhi azzurri sul golfo	6a+	37 m
Panza sinistra	5c	32 m
Bretella	6c	35 m
Tiraca	5c	35 m
Messenio	6c+	35 m
Panza destra	5c	20 m
Panza destra extension	6a	35 m
Stella marine	5c	20 m
Stella marine extension	6a+	40 m
Aqua chiara	6b+	20 m
Falso movimento	7b	23 m
Pietre colorate	6c	40 m
Rigole	5a	15 m
Rigole extension	5a+	27 m
Libera	P	23 m
Olivoli	6b	35 m
Arupa	6a+	35 m
Cupa	6a+	35 m
Aria nuova	6a+	35 m
Placcometro	5b+	15 m
Rigolette	3a	20 m
Spigolo	6c	20 m
Pesce d’aprile	7a	25 m
Classica	5b	25 m
Nel blu	6b+	25 m
Questione di feeling	6a	25 m
Graziella	5a	30 m
Silvia	5b	30 m
A tutta birra	5a	20 m
Succo e polpa	5c	20 m
Serena	5c	20 m
Rolling stones	6a	35 m
Kabuk	5c	20 m
Kabuk extension	6a	40 m
Spacatura	4a	10 m
Spacatura extension	6a+	35 m
Kalman	6a	20 m
Kalman extension	6a+	40 m
Santiago	7b	18 m
Suora e Riccio	6a+	30 m