Črni kal

Črni kal, the granddaddy of Slovenian free climbing and a training ground for mountaineers, has spread to both sides in the recent years, mainly due to bolting efforts of Betka Galičič – with many easier and great routes for beginners and advanced climbers. In between you can still find old classics, that are so polished that they can easily be graded one or two grades more. For a relaxing, easy going day of climbing on the Karst sun you can hardly pick a better crag.
 
 
ACCESS
The old route leads through the village of Črni Kal – drive slowly – around the church and up the hill to a large parking space (P1). Less intrusive is a dirt road around the sand dig on the upper part of the Karst edge (after you leave the motorway at Kastelec, turn for Črnotiče and after that turn right on a dirt road). From this parking place (P2) a path to the right leads to the rightmost sectors, or left towards the tower. There is space for some cars higher up the road.

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PARKING GPS
P1: N 45°55’34.40”, E 13°87’95.18”

P2: N 45°54’99.12”, E 13°88’08.83”

WEATHER
There are not many overhangs, so you will need a dry day. But the crag is protected from the wind and has many trees and corners, providing shade, so the heat is not a big problem, unless you decide to climb in the most exposed walls – which are, on the other hand, great for the winter. It is an all year-round playground but still, the best periods are spring and autumn.

QUALITY
The rock quality is excellent and almost never breaks – but beware in new sectors, that still need to be „cleaned“. Because of hikers and animals on the edge, caution (and a helmet) is advised. The routes are bolted perfectly, even though there is sometimes a complaint or two – as many climbers are not used to leading the routes come here. There is large and comfortable space under the wall.

GEAR
You can climb even with 8 quickdraws and 50 meter rope. There are plenty of shorter routes, but be careful for the longer ones on the tower and in new sectors, there you will need at least 70 meter rope and 14 quickdraws. The top anchors come in many shapes – from lower-off carabiner to rings and others.

ROUTES
The routes are mostly vertical, of all types – from routes, dotted with jugs from bottom to top, to the technical cruxes where you will hardly be able to move. But if you look around, you will also find small roofs, overhangs, corners and cracks. If the routes looks polished, it probably is. That doesn‘t mean it is not nice, but you have been warned.

NOTES
Črni Kal is full of history. In the nearby quarry a paleolithic axe was discovered, as well as a bronze statue from the Roman period. Climbers are familiar with the Turkish tower – a ruin of an old castle dated to the 11th century, which was built to control the important trading route. The church of St. Valentine is also special with its leaning tower (so why even go to Pisa?) and the oldest house in these parts – Benko‘s shack from 1489. The seaside region was affected by the furious fight against occupation in WW2 more than other parts of Slovenia – you can be reminded of that at the “skater“ monument halfway to Osp.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

Viki Burger, 6275, Črni kal, Slovenija

+386 (0) 5 659 21 55, +386 (0) 40 799 501, [email protected], www.facebook.com, Opens MO – SU: 7Am – 22PM (opening hours are longer in summer)

A legendary meeting point for climber since 1989. The best place to drink a coffee and have a breakfast in the morning while waiting for your friends to go climbing in Mišja peč, Osp or Črni kal. And of course, the best spot to drink a beer or two and eat a magnificent meat/vegetarian/vegan burger after perfect climbing day. They also make their own cakes and ice cream. A must place to visit! Free WIFI!

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/

New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!

Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

ROUTES (from left to right):

A/I-II   – Above the road
Poletje	6b+		10 m
Morje	6c+		10 m
Sonce	7a+		15 m
Vročina	7b+		14 m
Na strehi sveta	7b		14 m
Najlepša	6c+		16 m
Boj z naravo	7b		13 m
Ocizla	6a+		13 m
Upanje	6b		13 m
Strast	6c+		12 m
Grenkoba	7a		12 m
Princeska Prva	5c		19 m
Let’s start again	6a+		22 m
Franček Frančišek	6b		22 m
Čarovnici iz BiaSep	6a		23 m
Brest	5c		23 m
Bor	6a		20 m
Vsakdo išče svoje parkirišče	6c+		20 m
Mokre sanje	6b+		22 m
Alpinist	6a		25 m
Virus	6b		18 m
Egipt	6a		14 m
Paradigma	6a		14 m
Navdušenje	6a+		16 m
Moment	6a		16 m
Trenutek sreče	5c		16 m
Pirh	6a		30 m
Hren	6a+		30 m
Aleluja	6b+		30 m
Vnebohod	6c		30 m
Vstajenje	6c		30 m
Spoved	7a		23 m
A/III-IV – Turkish tower
Sandijev raz	6a		27 m
Senca	6c+		27 m
Kirnova	6a		27 m
Valterjeva zajeda	5c		27 m
Direktna varianta	5c		27 m
Dreamcatcher	6b+		27 m
Kondor	6c+		27 m
JJJ	8a		27 m
Almina	7a+		27 m
Škrablova poč	6c		27 m
Uscana zofka	6c		27 m
Giljotina	6c+		30 m
Karantena	7c+		29 m
Vislice	7a		29 m
Pas de deux	7c		15 m
Medved	7c+		17 m
King size (left variant)	6c+		29 m
King size	6c+		29 m
Pingvin	7b		29 m
Mlin na veter	6c		25 m
Pajkel	6a		22 m
A/V – Turkish tower   – north face
Bobiči	6a+		24 m
Vampi	6c		22 m
Barcaffe	7a		12 m
Turška kava	6a		16 m
Brodet	5b		17 m
Normalna	4a		16 m
Most	4a		22 m
Po grajskih stopnicah	4b		15 m
Srčkana	6a+		16 m
LBA	6c		16 m
Zidarska poč	7a		17 m
Prostozidarska	7b+		17 m
Brez raza (without the arete)	8a		17 m
Prepih	6b+		17 m
Sector B
Konec raja	6a+		33 m
Poletje odhaja	6b		33 m
Draga naša Lidija	5c		35 m
Johnny Jump	6a+		25 m
Elanora	5c		19 m
Wannabe	6a		19 m
Deponija	6a		23 m
Koko bom vrtal, če nimam niti   za vijake	6a+		22 m
Krigl	6b		26 m
Superca	5c		28 m
D.D. lovec iz Kastelca	7a+		26 m
J.S. vinogradnik iz Kastelca	7a		25 m
Viadukt redukt	7a+		25 m
Viadukt	6c		25 m
Dežela senc	6c+		17 m
Burja	6b		17 m
Šah mat	7a		17 m
X	7b		16 m
Levi Y	6a		16 m
Zabava brez razov	7b		16 m
Desni Y	5c		16 m
Buhtelj	5a		15 m
Bula	6c		16 m
Legalize it	7b+		16 m
Turški med	6b		16 m
Črn prusik	6a+		17 m
Gauda	6c+		16 m
Krokonoj	6b		16 m
Leve sirove luknje	6c		17 m
Desne sirove luknje	6b		17 m
Gorgonzola	6b		17 m
Vagabund	7b		16 m
Rokova	6c		17 m
Šnops	6c		22 m
Ledeni možje	6c		17 m
Zmrznjeni možje	7a		21 m
Bog odpusti jim	5c		15 m
Dilema	6b+		10 m
D.O.A	6c		10 m
Intenzivno	7a		10 m
Tjaška	5b		17 m
Sončica	6a		17 m
Perje	5c		16 m
Prestop	4c		16 m
Z poč	5c		17 m
Martinčkov rep	6b		16 m
Poševna zajeda	5c		15 m
Izhod Road runner	6a		11 m
Kojot Vily	5c		12 m
Daffy Duck	6a+		15 m
Bugs Bunny	5b		16 m
J&K – Špelin grafit	5c		16 m
Kamin	3		16 m
Sonce popoldan	5b		15 m
Pakla	5a		14 m
Lunapark	4a		14 m
Bilabong	4c		15 m
Sektor C
Sončna ura	6a		15 m
Ajda	4b		15 m
Vilijeva	4b		15 m
Bori šumijo	5c		15 m
Raz lokomotive	6c		15 m
Trboveljska	6c+		15 m
Lokomotiva	6b+		15 m
Lajza	6a+		15 m
Soft rock	6c		15 m
Kamena doba	6c		15 m
Škis berač	6a		15 m
Leteči Dolenc	5b		15 m
Pasja radost	6a		15 m
Barbara	7b+		16 m
VV	6c+		16 m
Popaj	6a		16 m
Popajev raz	6b+		16 m
Kačja slina	6c		16 m
Borček	6b+		16 m
Bubo	6a		16 m
Bunka	5c		13 m
Čez streho	6c+		13 m
Levičarka	5a		13 m
Pomaranča	6a+		13 m
Mandarina	7b		12 m
Hard rock	6c		12 m
Midnight moving	6a+		12 m
Varianta JŽ	5c		12 m
JŽ	5b		14 m
Goseničar	5b		14 m
Gosenica	5a		14 m
Cergol	6b		14 m
Kamin	5a		14 m
Trabant	5c		16 m
Raz Mercedesa	6a		16 m
Mercedes	6c		16 m
Fičo	6a+		16 m
Mortisia Adams	6b+		13 m
Poč	5b		13 m
Oliva	5b		13 m
Bela gurtna	5c		15 m
Teddy bear	6c		15 m
Lily Marlene	6b		16 m
NSK	6b		16 m
Jahalna	5b		16 m
Kreš test	5b		15 m
Carpe Diem	5c		15 m
Bingel bongel	5b		15 m
Heker	6a		15 m
Krvava nevesta	6a+		16 m
Fosilček	6a+		16 m
R 12	6a+		16 m
I.R. Babon	6a+		16 m
I.AM Weasel	6a		16 m
Surogat	6a		16 m
Beetle juice	6a+		16 m
Mična gospodična	4b		16 m
Kačon	5c		16 m
Burleska RŽV	5a		16 m
Sector D
Dan D	6a		14 m
Sandijeva zajeda	5c		12 m
Piranha	7a		12 m
Francev raz	5b		14 m
TCG Ut	5b		14 m
Mladi upi	3		14 m
Kosovir	4c		14 m
Scooby-doo	4a		12 m
Kratka sladka	4b		12 m
Dexter’s laboratory	6a		12 m
Marenda	4b		15 m
Cow & Chicken	5c		12 m
Johnny Bravo	4c		12 m
2 stupid dogs	5b		10 m
Žanetka	4b		14 m
Vremenko	4c		15 m
Kokijev raz	6c+		16 m
13 duhov	4c		16 m
Turbo folk	4b		16 m
40+	4c		16 m
Opičji posli	4b		16 m
Nulta ura	4b		16 m
Sreča na vrvici	4b		17 m
Vrtnar	4a		17 m
Plevica	4b		17 m
Zlati časi	4c		17 m
Sector E
Mira ur	4a		10 m
Oj ježek moj	6a+		10 m
COOH2	6a+		10 m
Čebelica	5a		11 m
Mary Pompins	6a+		10 m
Cvrček (chimney)	4b		10 m
Cvrček (in the slab)	5c		10 m
Žužek	6a		10 m
Zavajon	6b		10 m
Bojler	6c		10 m
Sector F
Jutri je nov dan	6a+		23 m
Najboljši sosed	5a		23 m
Komu zvoni	5c		22 m
Stekleni zvon	6a+		23 m
Uranoja	5c		24 m
Še pomnite, tovariši	6b+		25 m
Adijo pamet	6b+		25 m
Fračji dol	5b		14 m
Mali pišček	4c		14 m
Exitus in tabula	5c		15 m
Ovarij	4a		15 m
Smegma	5b		15 m
Globus	5a		15 m
Casus Purus Putus	6a		16 m
Mea Culpa	5a		16 m
Sector G – Peskovnik
Frtala	7a		15 m
Labodji spev	5b		18 m
Tudi angeli jočejo	5b		18 m
Flancat	6a+		19 m
Krofek	6b+		19 m
Grdi raček	6c+		19 m
Čarovnija	7c		19 m
Lolek	6a+		20 m
Regrat z jajci	6a		20 m
Primorski sneg (without the crack)	6c+		20 m
Bolek	7a		20 m
Ramayana	6a+		23 m
Zrcalce	6b		22 m
Sidarta	6a		25 m
Miška	5c		25 m
Matako Koyama	5c		22 m
Stlačenka	6b+		22 m
Vikova	6c+		22 m
Petek 19.	6b+		25 m
P. drekač	6c		25 m
Modri dirkač	6c		25 m
Hipotenuza	6b+		26 m
Var. Hipotenuze	6b		26 m
Štrigon	7a		26 m
Mau Ce Mem Kresnu	7a+		26 m
V novo tisočletje	6c		28 m
Guliver	6c		27 m
Fenix	6c+		29 m
Pride in mine	6c+		31 m
Roja	6a+		30 m
Prišel, videl, omagal	6b		33 m
Skin deep	7b		33 m
Dolce far niente	7a		35 m
Stokalnik	7a+		35 m
Miš maš	7a		35 m
Šiš miš	7b+		33 m
Vzemi ali pusti	7a+		31 m
Lom valov	6c+		30 m
Mačje pokopališče	6c+		29 m
Alkimist	7a+		29 m
Stonoga	7b		30 m
Božji veter	7b		32 m
Airbag	7a+		34 m
Aligator	7b		33 m
Pavijan	7a+		33 m
Thorn birds	6c		30 m
Vrtinec rož	6c		30 m
Peskovnik	6a+		28 m
Migula	6c+		30 m
Polarni sij	6c		30 m
Franci na balanci	6a		30 m
Oskubljena kura	6c+		28 m
Vetrnica	6b+		25 m
Pazi, vlak!	6b		25 m
Kripl klub	5c		17 m
Kr neki	6a		17 m
Pasulj	5a		17 m
Cvetje v jeseni	6a		17 m
Nergomanija	6c		17 m
Superspinatus	6c+		17 m
Sivi Panterji	6b		17 m
Terapija	6c+		17 m
Lejina	6a+		17 m
Viagrakiller	6c		15 m
Roman the best	6c+		18 m
Stranski tir	6c		17 m
Epikondinitis	6b+		17 m
J.S. Sadilec rož	6b		17 m
Jutri bo bolje	6b		13 m
Zemljotres	7a		13 m
Princ čistosti	6c		10 m
Škratek	5c		10 m