Črni kal

Črni kal, the granddaddy of Slovenian free climbing and a training ground for mountaineers, has spread to both sides in the recent years, mainly due to bolting efforts of Betka Galičič – with many easier and great routes for beginners and advanced climbers. In between you can still find old classics, that are so polished that they can easily be graded one or two grades more. For a relaxing, easy going day of climbing on the Karst sun you can hardly pick a better crag.
The old route leads through the village of Črni Kal – drive slowly – around the church and up the hill to a large parking space (P1). Less intrusive is a dirt road around the sand dig on the upper part of the Karst edge (after you leave the motorway at Kastelec, turn for Črnotiče and after that turn right on a dirt road). From this parking place (P2) a path to the right leads to the rightmost sectors, or left towards the tower. There is space for some cars higher up the road.

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P1: N 45°55’34.40”, E 13°87’95.18”

P2: N 45°54’99.12”, E 13°88’08.83”

There are not many overhangs, so you will need a dry day. But the crag is protected from the wind and has many trees and corners, providing shade, so the heat is not a big problem, unless you decide to climb in the most exposed walls – which are, on the other hand, great for the winter. It is an all year-round playground but still, the best periods are spring and autumn.

The rock quality is excellent and almost never breaks – but beware in new sectors, that still need to be „cleaned“. Because of hikers and animals on the edge, caution (and a helmet) is advised. The routes are bolted perfectly, even though there is sometimes a complaint or two – as many climbers are not used to leading the routes come here. There is large and comfortable space under the wall.

You can climb even with 8 quickdraws and 50 meter rope. There are plenty of shorter routes, but be careful for the longer ones on the tower and in new sectors, there you will need at least 70 meter rope and 14 quickdraws. The top anchors come in many shapes – from lower-off carabiner to rings and others.

The routes are mostly vertical, of all types – from routes, dotted with jugs from bottom to top, to the technical cruxes where you will hardly be able to move. But if you look around, you will also find small roofs, overhangs, corners and cracks. If the routes looks polished, it probably is. That doesn‘t mean it is not nice, but you have been warned.

Črni Kal is full of history. In the nearby quarry a paleolithic axe was discovered, as well as a bronze statue from the Roman period. Climbers are familiar with the Turkish tower – a ruin of an old castle dated to the 11th century, which was built to control the important trading route. The church of St. Valentine is also special with its leaning tower (so why even go to Pisa?) and the oldest house in these parts – Benko‘s shack from 1489. The seaside region was affected by the furious fight against occupation in WW2 more than other parts of Slovenia – you can be reminded of that at the “skater“ monument halfway to Osp.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

Viki Burger, 6275, Črni kal, Slovenija

+386 (0) 5 659 21 55, +386 (0) 40 799 501, [email protected], www.facebook.com, Opens MO – SU: 7Am – 22PM (opening hours are longer in summer)

A legendary meeting point for climber since 1989. The best place to drink a coffee and have a breakfast in the morning while waiting for your friends to go climbing in Mišja peč, Osp or Črni kal. And of course, the best spot to drink a beer or two and eat a magnificent meat/vegetarian/vegan burger after perfect climbing day. They also make their own cakes and ice cream. A must place to visit! Free WIFI!

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/

New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!

ocizla_crHostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

ROUTES (from left to right):

A/I-II   – Above the road
Poletje 6b+ 10 m
Morje 6c+ 10 m
Sonce 7a+ 15 m
Vročina 7b+ 14 m
Na strehi sveta 7b 14 m
Najlepša 6c+ 16 m
Boj z naravo 7b 13 m
Ocizla 6a+ 13 m
Upanje 6b 13 m
Strast 6c+ 12 m
Grenkoba 7a 12 m
Princeska Prva 5c 19 m
Let’s start again 6a+ 22 m
Franček Frančišek 6b 22 m
Čarovnici iz BiaSep 6a 23 m
Brest 5c 23 m
Bor 6a 20 m
Vsakdo išče svoje parkirišče 6c+ 20 m
Mokre sanje 6b+ 22 m
Alpinist 6a 25 m
Virus 6b 18 m
Egipt 6a 14 m
Paradigma 6a 14 m
Navdušenje 6a+ 16 m
Moment 6a 16 m
Trenutek sreče 5c 16 m
Pirh 6a 30 m
Hren 6a+ 30 m
Aleluja 6b+ 30 m
Vnebohod 6c 30 m
Vstajenje 6c 30 m
Spoved 7a 23 m
A/III-IV – Turkish tower
Sandijev raz 6a 27 m
Senca 6c+ 27 m
Kirnova 6a 27 m
Valterjeva zajeda 5c 27 m
Direktna varianta 5c 27 m
Dreamcatcher 6b+ 27 m
Kondor 6c+ 27 m
JJJ 8a 27 m
Almina 7a+ 27 m
Škrablova poč 6c 27 m
Uscana zofka 6c 27 m
Giljotina 6c+ 30 m
Karantena 7c+ 29 m
Vislice 7a 29 m
Pas de deux 7c 15 m
Medved 7c+ 17 m
King size (left variant) 6c+ 29 m
King size 6c+ 29 m
Pingvin 7b 29 m
Mlin na veter 6c 25 m
Pajkel 6a 22 m
A/V – Turkish tower   – north face
Bobiči 6a+ 24 m
Vampi 6c 22 m
Barcaffe 7a 12 m
Turška kava 6a 16 m
Brodet 5b 17 m
Normalna 4a 16 m
Most 4a 22 m
Po grajskih stopnicah 4b 15 m
Srčkana 6a+ 16 m
LBA 6c 16 m
Zidarska poč 7a 17 m
Prostozidarska 7b+ 17 m
Brez raza (without the arete) 8a 17 m
Prepih 6b+ 17 m
Sector B
Konec raja 6a+ 33 m
Poletje odhaja 6b 33 m
Draga naša Lidija 5c 35 m
Johnny Jump 6a+ 25 m
Elanora 5c 19 m
Wannabe 6a 19 m
Deponija 6a 23 m
Koko bom vrtal, če nimam niti   za vijake 6a+ 22 m
Krigl 6b 26 m
Superca 5c 28 m
D.D. lovec iz Kastelca 7a+ 26 m
J.S. vinogradnik iz Kastelca 7a 25 m
Viadukt redukt 7a+ 25 m
Viadukt 6c 25 m
Dežela senc 6c+ 17 m
Burja 6b 17 m
Šah mat 7a 17 m
X 7b 16 m
Levi Y 6a 16 m
Zabava brez razov 7b 16 m
Desni Y 5c 16 m
Buhtelj 5a 15 m
Bula 6c 16 m
Legalize it 7b+ 16 m
Turški med 6b 16 m
Črn prusik 6a+ 17 m
Gauda 6c+ 16 m
Krokonoj 6b 16 m
Leve sirove luknje 6c 17 m
Desne sirove luknje 6b 17 m
Gorgonzola 6b 17 m
Vagabund 7b 16 m
Rokova 6c 17 m
Šnops 6c 22 m
Ledeni možje 6c 17 m
Zmrznjeni možje 7a 21 m
Bog odpusti jim 5c 15 m
Dilema 6b+ 10 m
D.O.A 6c 10 m
Intenzivno 7a 10 m
Tjaška 5b 17 m
Sončica 6a 17 m
Perje 5c 16 m
Prestop 4c 16 m
Z poč 5c 17 m
Martinčkov rep 6b 16 m
Poševna zajeda 5c 15 m
Izhod Road runner 6a 11 m
Kojot Vily 5c 12 m
Daffy Duck 6a+ 15 m
Bugs Bunny 5b 16 m
J&K – Špelin grafit 5c 16 m
Kamin 3 16 m
Sonce popoldan 5b 15 m
Pakla 5a 14 m
Lunapark 4a 14 m
Bilabong 4c 15 m
Sektor C
Sončna ura 6a 15 m
Ajda 4b 15 m
Vilijeva 4b 15 m
Bori šumijo 5c 15 m
Raz lokomotive 6c 15 m
Trboveljska 6c+ 15 m
Lokomotiva 6b+ 15 m
Lajza 6a+ 15 m
Soft rock 6c 15 m
Kamena doba 6c 15 m
Škis berač 6a 15 m
Leteči Dolenc 5b 15 m
Pasja radost 6a 15 m
Barbara 7b+ 16 m
VV 6c+ 16 m
Popaj 6a 16 m
Popajev raz 6b+ 16 m
Kačja slina 6c 16 m
Borček 6b+ 16 m
Bubo 6a 16 m
Bunka 5c 13 m
Čez streho 6c+ 13 m
Levičarka 5a 13 m
Pomaranča 6a+ 13 m
Mandarina 7b 12 m
Hard rock 6c 12 m
Midnight moving 6a+ 12 m
Varianta JŽ 5c 12 m
5b 14 m
Goseničar 5b 14 m
Gosenica 5a 14 m
Cergol 6b 14 m
Kamin 5a 14 m
Trabant 5c 16 m
Raz Mercedesa 6a 16 m
Mercedes 6c 16 m
Fičo 6a+ 16 m
Mortisia Adams 6b+ 13 m
Poč 5b 13 m
Oliva 5b 13 m
Bela gurtna 5c 15 m
Teddy bear 6c 15 m
Lily Marlene 6b 16 m
NSK 6b 16 m
Jahalna 5b 16 m
Kreš test 5b 15 m
Carpe Diem 5c 15 m
Bingel bongel 5b 15 m
Heker 6a 15 m
Krvava nevesta 6a+ 16 m
Fosilček 6a+ 16 m
R 12 6a+ 16 m
I.R. Babon 6a+ 16 m
I.AM Weasel 6a 16 m
Surogat 6a 16 m
Beetle juice 6a+ 16 m
Mična gospodična 4b 16 m
Kačon 5c 16 m
Burleska RŽV 5a 16 m
Sector D
Dan D 6a 14 m
Sandijeva zajeda 5c 12 m
Piranha 7a 12 m
Francev raz 5b 14 m
TCG Ut 5b 14 m
Mladi upi 3 14 m
Kosovir 4c 14 m
Scooby-doo 4a 12 m
Kratka sladka 4b 12 m
Dexter’s laboratory 6a 12 m
Marenda 4b 15 m
Cow & Chicken 5c 12 m
Johnny Bravo 4c 12 m
2 stupid dogs 5b 10 m
Žanetka 4b 14 m
Vremenko 4c 15 m
Kokijev raz 6c+ 16 m
13 duhov 4c 16 m
Turbo folk 4b 16 m
40+ 4c 16 m
Opičji posli 4b 16 m
Nulta ura 4b 16 m
Sreča na vrvici 4b 17 m
Vrtnar 4a 17 m
Plevica 4b 17 m
Zlati časi 4c 17 m
Sector E
Mira ur 4a 10 m
Oj ježek moj 6a+ 10 m
COOH2 6a+ 10 m
Čebelica 5a 11 m
Mary Pompins 6a+ 10 m
Cvrček (chimney) 4b 10 m
Cvrček (in the slab) 5c 10 m
Žužek 6a 10 m
Zavajon 6b 10 m
Bojler 6c 10 m
Sector F
Jutri je nov dan 6a+ 23 m
Najboljši sosed 5a 23 m
Komu zvoni 5c 22 m
Stekleni zvon 6a+ 23 m
Uranoja 5c 24 m
Še pomnite, tovariši 6b+ 25 m
Adijo pamet 6b+ 25 m
Fračji dol 5b 14 m
Mali pišček 4c 14 m
Exitus in tabula 5c 15 m
Ovarij 4a 15 m
Smegma 5b 15 m
Globus 5a 15 m
Casus Purus Putus 6a 16 m
Mea Culpa 5a 16 m
Sector G – Peskovnik
Frtala 7a 15 m
Labodji spev 5b 18 m
Tudi angeli jočejo 5b 18 m
Flancat 6a+ 19 m
Krofek 6b+ 19 m
Grdi raček 6c+ 19 m
Čarovnija 7c 19 m
Lolek 6a+ 20 m
Regrat z jajci 6a 20 m
Primorski sneg (without the crack) 6c+ 20 m
Bolek 7a 20 m
Ramayana 6a+ 23 m
Zrcalce 6b 22 m
Sidarta 6a 25 m
Miška 5c 25 m
Matako Koyama 5c 22 m
Stlačenka 6b+ 22 m
Vikova 6c+ 22 m
Petek 19. 6b+ 25 m
P. drekač 6c 25 m
Modri dirkač 6c 25 m
Hipotenuza 6b+ 26 m
Var. Hipotenuze 6b 26 m
Štrigon 7a 26 m
Mau Ce Mem Kresnu 7a+ 26 m
V novo tisočletje 6c 28 m
Guliver 6c 27 m
Fenix 6c+ 29 m
Pride in mine 6c+ 31 m
Roja 6a+ 30 m
Prišel, videl, omagal 6b 33 m
Skin deep 7b 33 m
Dolce far niente 7a 35 m
Stokalnik 7a+ 35 m
Miš maš 7a 35 m
Šiš miš 7b+ 33 m
Vzemi ali pusti 7a+ 31 m
Lom valov 6c+ 30 m
Mačje pokopališče 6c+ 29 m
Alkimist 7a+ 29 m
Stonoga 7b 30 m
Božji veter 7b 32 m
Airbag 7a+ 34 m
Aligator 7b 33 m
Pavijan 7a+ 33 m
Thorn birds 6c 30 m
Vrtinec rož 6c 30 m
Peskovnik 6a+ 28 m
Migula 6c+ 30 m
Polarni sij 6c 30 m
Franci na balanci 6a 30 m
Oskubljena kura 6c+ 28 m
Vetrnica 6b+ 25 m
Pazi, vlak! 6b 25 m
Kripl klub 5c 17 m
Kr neki 6a 17 m
Pasulj 5a 17 m
Cvetje v jeseni 6a 17 m
Nergomanija 6c 17 m
Superspinatus 6c+ 17 m
Sivi Panterji 6b 17 m
Terapija 6c+ 17 m
Lejina 6a+ 17 m
Viagrakiller 6c 15 m
Roman the best 6c+ 18 m
Stranski tir 6c 17 m
Epikondinitis 6b+ 17 m
J.S. Sadilec rož 6b 17 m
Jutri bo bolje 6b 13 m
Zemljotres 7a 13 m
Princ čistosti 6c 10 m
Škratek 5c 10 m