A garage size cave north from Črni kal on top of the Karst edge. First routes were bolted by a legend Tadej Slabe in the late 80’s and early 90’s. Tedi (Tadej Slabe) used this cave for training for his hard-core projects in Mišja peč. He opened many different variations but the famous routes of high class quality are for sure 15 meters long roofs with the name Gnojna bula (8a+) and Gibanica (7c+). In the following millenium the cave got popular by boulderers which opened many different and extremely hard boulders in it.
On the highway A1 take the exit Kastelec and follow directions Podgorje. After passing the quarry of Črnotiče on your left side continue on the same road till you reach the third sign for Črnotiče, turn right on dirt road and after 300 meters you will see on your right side this small garage size cave. Park just couple of meters further on the left side of the crossing.
The best season is from autumn to spring. In winter also the sun comes in the cave and in the summer there is always some fresh breeze from inside. Routes remain wet after rain for longer period of time.
Gnojna bula and Gibanica are rebolted, but all the other projects and connections are still equipped with old bolts and would need rebolting.
As the routes end on about 8 meters of height you don’t need more than a 30 meters rope and a set of 10 quickdraws. If you bring a crash pad with you, you will not regret it as the boulders are of high quality as well. By the way, it is convenient to use crash pad for the first couple of meters of the routes in case of falling while clipping the quickdraw,…
Routes are all in full roof on compact limestone full of different colours from black to grey and white, yellow and green. Holds are mostly good edges, sloppers, funny tufas and crack systems. Climbing is totally athletic with many heel hooks, turning around and power endurance climbing. Of course many boulders appear as well.
It is forbidden to park under the cave as well to burn the fire or leave trash anywhere near. As well don’t sleep in the cave, wild camping is forbidden in Slovenia!
Try to find some local climbers that can explain you around 30 different boulder problems in range from FB5a – FB8b. Some of the classic problems are dynamic Shaq attack (FB7a), crimpy Stiska s časom (FB7c+), tricky Intensive (FB8a) and so on. Close to the quarry of Črnotiče just above the road you can find another old bouldering spot called Černobil.
EAT & DRINK we recommend…
Under the Karst edge in the Osp valley lies the village of Osp, world famous for its karst collapse. Tourist farm Vovk provides space for camping (camp) and typical local food (grilled dishes, seasonal dishes, side dishes: potatoes, cabbage, turnips, prosciutto cold cuts, pancetta, pork neck salami) and country wines. The campsite is open all year round and is suitable for families who appreciate peace and intact nature.
SLEEP we had experienced…
New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!
Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.
VIDEO LINK for boulders: https://vimeo.com/27571793
ROUTES (from left to right):
|Paula nad prepadom||8a+||15 m|
|Gnojna bula||8a+||15 m|