Mišja peč

Mišja peč

 /  / Mišja peč

Mišja peč the queen of Slovenian top level climbing. With its horseshoe shape it brings luck to all good climbers. In the last couple of years a lot of easier routes were bolted, and climbers got better as well, so Mišja peč finally lost its infamous label of an elitist playground, though you may still get a funny look if you study a “warmup“ route for the 8‘s for too long. It helps if you are strong. And have excellent technique, along with stamina. In fact, you need to be good at everything.

ACCESS

Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking. There is a sign that you have to pay the parking, but now nobody is controlling that, so you don’t need to pay it. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.

WEATHER

Mišja peč withstands the worst conditions – even rain and wind can‘t touch it. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding. In the winter the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that.

ROUTES

Basically all the routes are slightly or heavily overhanging and you need a lot of strength, endurance or sometimes both. Still, you can be surprised by quite technical, vertical parts. It‘s good to be at home among tufas, and all the longer routes have great no hand rests, if you are skilled enough. Sadly some of the classics are very polished and some of them would easily deserve a plus more. The best routes start around 7a.

The first route, that started its life as an aid climb Lastovke, is today known as Preobrazba 7c+, and was freed by Srečo Rehberger in the late 80s.

ENVIROMENTAL NOTES

The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits and take your trash with you.

Recommended accommodations

Hostel Ociski Raj

Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well many opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

Vila Robida

Vila Robida

Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia

New Hotel *** – Vila Robida in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Old stone house fully renovated. Heated outdoor pool from 1.4 – 1.11., VIP Sauna & SPA and a Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. Elegantly furnished 9 rooms and 3 big apartments by the pool.

ROUTES (from left to right)

Mišja peč is nicely maintained and often rebolted, except for a few forgotten routes. Practically all the routes have an anchor with a carabiner. But it‘s harder to praise all the qiuckdraws, which hang in many routes – some of them are dangerously worn out and are just begging to be replaced. The rock quality in Mišja peč is superb – only rarely a foothold may break. Under the wall there is enough space for a small picnic or several baby carriages.
Watch out only on longer routes, otherwise even the 60-meter rope should be fine. The same goes for quickdraws – 14 are usually enough. For longer routes you don’t need more then 80-meter rope and 16 quickdraws.

A – Left part
Festival alpinizma 6a 15m
Slinavka 5a 14m
Parkljevka 5b 14m
Brbončica 6a+ 14m
Harry Potter 6a+ 16m
Bradavičarka 6a+ 17m
Mojčina 5a+ 17m
Ksenjina 5a 17m
Naritko Mitko 5a+ 17m
Lukova 6c 17m
Jožetova 6a 20m
Dragotova 6b 20m
Sorinina 6c 20m
Pepel 6b+ 15m
Varianta pepela 6b 15m
Jumbo 7a 17m
Meteorit 7c 19m
Poontang 7b+ 16m
Sternschnuppe 7b 15m
Mičkena 6c+ 12m
Frenkova (start in Mičkena, end in Johanova) 7a 23m
Johanova 7c 20m
Nido 7b 15m
Kinder garten direkt 7b 18m
Kinder garten 7a+ 18m
Matamoros 7c 18m
Tekila 8a 19m
Durango 7b+ 19m
Tortuga a 7b 13m
Tortuga b 7c 13m
Ninja želva – the extension of Tortuga 8b+ 20m
Corto 8a 18m
Lazuret 8b 25m
Mr. Big hand 8b+ 30m
Gospodar prstanov 7c+ 15m
Manana 7c 12m
Hobit 7c 17m
Talk is cheap! 8c 15m
Vicious circle 9a+/b 16m
Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+ 13m
Sanjski par 8c 10m
Sanjski par extension 9a 16m
Peskovnik 7b 9m
Sistolitični vrt 7b+ 4m
B – Central part
Pičkin dim 6b+ 14m
Tazio 6c 14m
Kurčji rock 6c+ 14m
Ribalton 7a+ 18m
Čao bejbe 8a 20m
Iglu 8a 20m
Flash dance 7c 20m
Angie wall 7c 24m
Rock’n’roll 7c+ 22m
Galaktika 8a 25m
P ? 9m
Strta srca 8a+ 9m
Twin peaks 7c+ 7m
Stinger 7c 24m
Pinč v klinču 7b+ 24m
No fly zone 8b 24m
Skodelica kave 7b 23m
Nina 7b 21m
Danger zone 7a 19m
Nikita 7b+ 19m
Minulet 7b+ 19m
Ponarejeni minulet 6c+ 19m
Ponarejena želva 7b 20m
Oro puro 7c 20m
Teta Liza 7a 19m
Moving shadow 7b+ 16m
9a 6c 19m
9a extension 7c 30m
Uncle Ben 7b 19m
Ljubezen na prvi pogled (start in Eagles, end in Uncle Ben) 7b 19m
Ljubezen na prvi pogled extension 7c+ 30m
Eagles 8b 19m
Caffe expresso 8a+ 30m
Dolga kava (start in Nočna kronika, end in Caffe expresso 7c 30m
Nočna kronika 7c+ 23m
Nočna kronika extension 8b 30m
Cona ugodja (start in Nočna kronika, end in Urbanova) 7c 30m
Urbanova 8a 30m
Uživancija 8a 30m
Veseli tobogan (only in between the tufas) 8a 10m
Popolni mrk 8c 30m
Sreča vrtnice 7a+ 21m
Sreča vrtnice extension 8b 32m
Gorenjski šnops 7a 16m
Gorenjski šnops extension 8b 32m
Albanski konjak 7a 18m
Albanski konjak extension 8a 31m
Kranjska sivka 6c 18m
Rodeo 7a 18m
Corrida = Rodeo extension 8c 31m
Histerija 8c+ 32m
Ptičja perspektiva 7b 20m
Ptičja perspektiva extension 8a+ 31m
Krvave dimlje 7b+ 19m
Krvave dimlje extension – P ? 31m
Pikova dama 8b 32m
Vizija 8c 30m
Karizma 8b+ 32m
Triad 8a 23m
Človek ne jezi se 8c 16m
Človek ne jezi se extension 8c+ 40m
Ekstaza 8c+/9a 40m
Xaxid hostel 9a 40m
J.S.F.K. 7c+ 16m
J.S.F.K. extension 8b 40m
Sanje za dušo 8b+ 40m
Figa 7b 16m
Figaro = Figa extension 8a+ 40m
Blood, sugar, sex, magic 8a 18m
Bula 7b+ 18m
Giljotina 8a 18m
Bastilla = Giljotina extension 8a+ 27m
Bastilla = Giljotina 2nd extension 8b+ 40m
Highlander 8a+ 19m
Samsara 8a 19m
Izgubljeni sin = Samsara extension 8a+ 40m
Mrtvaški ples 8b 19m
Marioneta 8b/b+ 19m
Lahko noč, Irena 8b 25m
Mozaik 8a 25m
Milennium = Mozaik extension 8b+ 40m
Hugo 7c 25m
Popaj = Hugo extension 8a+ 32m
Lucky Luke = Hugo right extension 8b 32m
Chiquita 8a 25m
Chiquita extension 8b 32m
Preobrazba 7c+ 23m
Klobasa – Preobrazba 7c 23m
Klobasa 8a+ 23m
Kaj ti je deklica? 8b+ 32m
Oktoberfest 8a 29m
Pasja radost 7b+ 18m
Šunka 7c+ 33m
Krvavica 7a 18m
Krvavica extension 7a+ 31m
Godla 7b 25m
Godla extension 7c+ 32m
Kamnolom 6a 15m
Tretje tisočletje 6b 18m
Tretje tisočletje extension 8a 29m
Pečenica 6b+ 17m
Pečenica extension 6b+ 25m
Pleskavica 7a 17m
Lisičji raz 7b 26m
Hugolina 7b+ 24m
Pinot 7c 24m
C – Right part
Deževna sodba 7c 24m
Hrenovka 6b+ 23m
Euro 7a+ 4m
Čevapčič 6c 22m
Sneguljčica 5c 7m
Bedarija 7a+ 13m
7 palčkov 6c 7m
Timo 6c 15m
Truplojedka 8a 7m
Matrix 8b 9m
Missing drink 8b+ 13m
Missing link 8b+ 13m
Natural link = Missing link without artificial holds 8c 13m
Konec mira 8c/c+ 16m
Marjetica 8b 14m
Pingvin 8a+ 16m
Pingvin (to the right) 8a 16m
Sonce v očeh 8a+ 16m
Martin Krpan 9a 22m
Strelovod 8c 18m
Runo 7b+ 16m
Reksi 7b 16m
Lesi 7b 16m
VR6 7c 16m
Zajček 8a 16m
Platfus 7a+ 15m
JSKŽ 7a+ 15m
Afrodita 6a+ 17m
Afrodiziak 6c+ 15m
Švejk 7a 15m
Krjavelj 6a+ 15m
Mišja luknja 5b 14m
Podgana 6a+ 15m
Prehod za pešce 4a 15m
Prijateljica noči 7a 12m
Sovražnica 7b+ 15m
Črna luknja 6c+ 16m
Sexy zajeda 6c+ 15m
Za star moped in hudga psa 7a+ 16m
Dežela šalc 5a 15m
Igra 7b 16m
Grom 6a 9m
Strela 5b 9m
Milky way 6b 9m
Bounty 6c 9m
Rest day 7b+ 9m
Snickers 6c 9m
Mars 6b+ 14m
Milka 6a 14m
Gorenjka 6c 13m
Raffaelo 6b 13m
Twix 5b 14m