Mišja peč

Mišja peč the queen of Slovenian top level climbing. With its horseshoe shape it brings luck to all good climbers. In the last couple of years a lot of easier routes were bolted, and climbers got better as well, so Mišja finally lost its infamous label of an elitist playground, though you may still get a funny look if you study a “warmup“ route for the 8‘s for too long. It helps if you are strong. And have excellent technique, along with stamina. In fact, you need to be good at everything.

Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking. It costs 5€/day and you have to pay it with mobile phone. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.

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N 45°56’73.1”, E 13°86’24.6” payable with EasyPark’s App 5€/day, 10€/3days or 15€/7days

Mišja withstands the worst conditions – even rain and wind can‘t touch it. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding. In the winter the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that.

Mišja is nicely maintained and often rebolted, except for a few forgotten routes. Practically all the routes have an anchor with a carabiner. But it‘s harder to praise all the qiuckdraws, which hang in many routes – some of them are dangerously worn out and are just begging to be replaced. The rock quality in Mišja is superb – only rarely a foothold may break. Under the wall there is enough space for a small picnic or several baby carriages.

Watch out only on longer routes, otherwise even the 60-meter rope should be fine. The same goes for quickdraws – 14 are usually enough. For longer routes you don’t need more then 80-meter rope and 16 quickdraws.

Basically all the routes are slightly or heavily overhanging and you need a lot of strength, endurance or sometimes both. Still, you can be surprised by quite technical, vertical parts. It‘s good to be at home among tufas, and all the longer routes have great no hand rests, if you are skilled enough. Sadly some of the classics are very polished and some of them would easily deserve a plus more. The best routes start around 7a.

The first route, that started its life as an aid climb Lastovke, is today known as Preobrazba 7c+, and was freed by Srečo Rehberger in the late 80s.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

Viki Burger, 6275, Črni kal, Slovenija

+386 (0) 5 659 21 55, +386 (0) 40 799 501, [email protected], www.facebook.com, Opens MO – SU: 7Am – 22PM (opening hours are longer in summer)

A legendary meeting point for climber since 1989. The best place to drink a coffee and have a breakfast in the morning while waiting for your friends to go climbing in Mišja peč, Osp or Črni kal. And of course, the best spot to drink a beer or two and eat a magnificent meat/vegetarian/vegan burger after perfect climbing day. They also make their own cakes and ice cream. A must place to visit! Free WIFI!

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/

New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!

ocizla_crHostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits, take your trash with you and try to satisfy your basic needs at home, in the camp or at Viki burger.

ROUTES (from left to right)

A – Left part
Slinavka 5a 14 m
Parkljevka 5b 14 m
Brbončica 6a+ 14 m
Harry Potter 6a+ 16 m
Bradavičarka 6a+ 17 m
Mojčina 5a+ 17 m
Ksenjina 5a 17 m
Naritko Mitko 5a+ 17 m
Lukova 6c 17 m
Jožetova 6a 20 m
Dragotova 6b 20 m
Sorinina 6c 20 m
Pepel 6b+ 15 m
Varianta pepela 6b 15 m
Jumbo 7a 17 m
Meteorit 7c 19 m
Poontang 7b+ 16 m
Sternschnuppe 7b 15 m
Mičkena 6c+ 12 m
Frenkova 7a 23 m
Johanova 7c 20 m
Nido 7b 15 m
Kinder garten direkt 7b 18 m
Kinder garten 7a+ 18 m
Matamoros 7c 18 m
Tekila 8a 19 m
Durango 7b+ 19 m
Tortuga a 7b 13 m
Tortuga b 7c 13 m
Ninja želva – the extension of Tortuga 8b+ 20 m
Corto 8a 18 m
Lazuret 8b 20 m
Mr. Big hand 8b+ 28 m
Gospodar prstanov 7c+ 15 m
Manana 7c 12 m
Hobit 7c 17 m
Talk is cheap! 8c 15 m
Vicious circle 9a+/b 16 m
Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+ 13 m
Sanjski par 8c 10 m
Sanjski par extension 9a 16 m
Peskovnik 7b 9 m
Sistolitični vrt 7b+ 4 m
B – Central part
Pičkin dim 6b+ 14 m
Tazio 6c 14 m
Kurčji rock 6c+ 14 m
Ribalton 7a+ 18 m
Čao bejbe 8a 20 m
Iglu 8a 20 m
Flash dance 7c 20 m
Angie wall 7c 24 m
Rock’n’roll 7c+ 22 m
Galaktika 8a 25 m
P ? 9 m
Strta srca 8a+ 9 m
Twin peaks 7c+ 7 m
Stinger 7c 24 m
Pinč v klinču 7b+ 24 m
No fly zone 8b 24 m
Skodelica kave 7b 23 m
Nina 7b 21 m
Danger zone 7a 19 m
Nikita 7b+ 19 m
Minulet 7b+ 19 m
Ponarejeni minulet 6c+ 19 m
Ponarejena želva 7b 20 m
Oro puro 7c 20 m
Teta Liza 7a 19 m
Moving shadow 7b+ 16 m
9a – 1. part 6c 19 m
9a 7c 30 m
Uncle Ben 7b 19 m
Ljubezen na prvi pogled – 1. part 7b 19 m
Ljubezen na prvi pogled 7c+ 30 m
Eagles 8b 19 m
Caffe expresso 8a+ 30 m
Dolga kava 7c 30 m
Nočna kronika 8b 30 m
Nočna kronika – 1. part 7c+ 23 m
Cona ugodja 7c 30 m
Urbanova 8a 30 m
Uživancija 8a 30 m
Veseli tobogan (only in between the tufas) 8a 10 m
Popolni mrk 8c 30 m
Sreča vrtnice 8b 32 m
Sreča vrtnice – 1. part 7a+ 21 m
Gorenjski šnops 8b 32 m
Gorenjski šnops – 1. part 7a 16 m
Albanski konjak 8a 31 m
Albanski konjak – 1. part 6c+ 18 m
Kranjska sivka 6c 18 m
Rodeo 7a 18 m
Corrida 8c 31 m
Histerija 8c+ 32 m
Ptičja perspektiva 8a+ 32 m
Ptičja perspektiva – 1. part 7b 20 m
Krvave dimlje 7b+ 19 m
Pikova dama 8b 32 m
Vizija 8c 30 m
Karizma 8b+ 32 m
Triad 8a 23 m
Človek ne jezi se – 1. part 8c 16 m
Ekstaza 8c+ 40 m
Človek ne jezi se 8c+ 41 m
Sanje za dušo 8b+ 40 m
Xaxid hostel 9a 42 m
J.S.F.K. – 1. part 7c+ 16 m
J.S.F.K. 8b 41 m
Katzo P 16 m
Figa 7b 16 m
Figaro 8a+ 40 m
Blood, sugar, sex, magic 8a 18 m
Bula 7b+ 18 m
Giljotina 8a 18 m
Bastilla 8a+ 27 m
Bastilla (to the top) 8b+ 40 m
Highlander 8a+ 19 m
Izgubljeni sin 8a+ 40 m
Samsara 8a 19 m
Mrtvaški ples 8b 19 m
Marioneta 8b 19 m
Lahko noč, Irena 8a+ 25 m
Mozaik 8a 25 m
Milennium 8b+ 40 m
Hugo 7c+ 25 m
Popaj 8a+ 32 m
Lucky luke 8b 32 m
Chiquita 8b 32 m
Chiquita – 1. part 8a 25 m
Preobrazba 7c+ 23 m
Klobasa – Preobrazba 7c 23 m
Klobasa 8a+ 23 m
Kaj ti je deklica? 8b+ 32 m
Oktoberfest 8a 29 m
Pasja radost 7b+ 18 m
Šunka 7c+ 33 m
Krvavica 7a+ 29 m
Krvavica – 1. part 7a 18 m
Godla 7c+ 35 m
Godla – 1. part 7b 25 m
Kamnolom 6a 15 m
Tretje tisočletje 8a 29 m
Tretje tisočletje – 1 part 6b 16 m
Pečenica 6b+ 25 m
Pečenica – 1. part 6b+ 17 m
Pleskavica 7a 17 m
Lisičji raz 7b 26 m
Hugolina 7b+ 24 m
Pinot 7c 24 m
C – Right part
Deževna sodba 7c 24 m
Hrenovka 6b+ 23 m
Euro 7a+ 4 m
Čevapčič 6c 22 m
Sneguljčica 5c 7 m
Bedarija 7a+ 13 m
7 palčkov 6c 7 m
Timo 6c 15 m
Truplojedka 8a 7 m
Matrix 8b 9 m
Missing drink 8b+ 13 m
Missing link 8b+ 13 m
Natural link 8c 13 m
Konec mira 8c/c+ 16 m
Marjetica 8b 14 m
Pingvin 8a+ 16 m
Pingvin (to the right) 8a 16 m
Sonce v očeh 8a+ 16 m
Martin Krpan 9a 22 m
Strelovod 8c 18 m
Runo 7b+ 16 m
Reksi 7b 16 m
Lesi 7b 16 m
VR6 7c 16 m
Zajček 8a 16 m
Platfus 7a+ 15 m
JSKŽ 7a+ 18 m
Afrodita 6a+ 17 m
Afrodiziak 6c+ 15 m
Švejk 7a 15 m
Krjavelj 6a+ 15 m
Mišja luknja 5b 14 m
Podgana 6a+ 15 m
Prehod za pešce 4a 15 m
Prijateljica noči 7a 12 m
Sovražnica 7b+ 15 m
Črna luknja 6c+ 16 m
Sexy zajeda 6c+ 15 m
Za star moped in hudga psa 7a+ 16 m
Dežela šalc 5a 15 m
Igra 7b 16 m
Grom 6a 9 m
Strela 5b 9 m
Milky way 6b 9 m
Bounty 6c 9 m
Rest day 7b+ 9 m
Snickers 6c 9 m
Mars 6b+ 14 m
Milka 6a 14 m
Gorenjka 6c 13 m
Raffaelo 6b 13 m
Twix 5b 14 m