Mišja peč

Mišja peč – the queen of Slovenian top level climbing. With its horseshoe shape it brings luck to all good climbers. In the last couple of years a lot of easier routes were bolted, and climbers got better as well, so Mišja finally lost its infamous label of an elitist playground, though you may still get a funny look if you study a “warmup“ route for the 8‘s for too long. It helps if you are strong. And have excellent technique, along with stamina. In fact, you need to be good at everything.

 

ACCESS
Try to get the latest information regarding the parking space. Since the old parking space under the crag was abandoned, a new parking space was formed a couple 100 meters back, on the left side of the road. If you plan to climb in Mišja, use that parking space. Do not park in driveways or on the side of the road! To get to the wall, go around, following the road – don‘t cross the pastures and fields on the side of the road. The approach is not long and will ideally warm you up for climbing. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.

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PARKING GPS
N 45°33’50.1”, E 13°51’46.6”

WEATHER
Mišja withstands the worst conditions – even rain and wind can‘t touch it. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding. In the winter the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that.

QUALITY
Mišja is nicely maintained and often rebolted, except for a few forgotten routes. Practically all the routes have an anchor with a carabiner. But it‘s harder to praise all the qiuckdraws, which hang in many routes – some of them are dangerously worn out and are just begging to be replaced. The rock quality in Mišja is superb – only rarely a foothold may break. Under the wall there is enough space for a small picnic or several baby carriages.

GEAR
Watch out only on longer routes, otherwise even the 60-meter rope should be fine. The same goes for quickdraws – 14 are usually enough. For longer routes you don’t need more then 80-meter rope and 16 quickdraws.

ROUTES
Basically all the routes are slightly or heavily overhanging and you need a lot of strength, endurance or sometimes both. Still, you can be surprised by quite technical, vertical parts. It‘s good to be at home among tufas, and all the longer routes have great no hand rests, if you are skilled enough. Sadly some of the classics are very polished and some of them would easily deserve a plus more. The best routes start around 7a.

TRIVIA
The first route, that started its life as an aid climb Lastovke, is today known as Preobrazba 7c+, and was freed by Srečo Rehberger in the late 80s.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

Pri Vovku, Osp 20, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenija

Under the Karst edge in the Osp valley lies the village of Osp, world famous for its karst collapse. Tourist farm Vovk provides space for camping (camp) and typical local food (grilled dishes, seasonal dishes, side dishes: potatoes, cabbage, turnips, prosciutto cold cuts, pancetta, pork neck salami) and country wines. The campsite is open all year round and is suitable for families who appreciate peace and intact nature.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

 

Rooms Hrpelje, Reška cesta 43, Hrpelje, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 40 874 475; [email protected]; www.rooms-hrpelje.si

Rooms Hrpelje are located in a new building in Hrpelje, really close to climber’s paradise of Mišja peč, Osp, Črni kal,… Rooms Hrpelje offer private rooms with a private bathroom for 2,3 or 4 persons, common kitchen, parking place, free wi-fi and TV. In the same building complex, there is a small market and a restaurant where you can buy or order your breakfast in advance, respectively.

 

NOTES
The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits, take your trash with you and try to satisfy your basic needs at home, in the camp or at Viki burger.

ROUTES (from left to right)

A – Left part
Slinavka	5a	14 m
Parkljevka	5b	14 m
Brbončica	6a+	14 m
Harry Potter	6a+	16 m
Bradavičarka	6a+	17 m
Mojčina	5a+	17 m
Ksenjina	5a	17 m
Naritko Mitko	5a+	17 m
Lukova	6c	17 m
Jožetova	6a	20 m
Dragotova	6b	20 m
Sorinina	6c	20 m
Pepel	6b+	15 m
Varianta pepela	6b	15 m
Jumbo	7a	17 m
Meteorit	7c	19 m
Poontang	7b+	16 m
Sternschnuppe	7b	15 m
Mičkena	6c+	12 m
Frenkova	7a	23 m
Johanova	7c	20 m
Nido	7b	15 m
Kinder garten direkt	7b	18 m
Kinder garten	7a+	18 m
Matamoros	7c	18 m
Tekila	8a	19 m
Durango	7b+	19 m
Tortuga a	7b	13 m
Tortuga b	7c	13 m
Ninja želva – the extension of Tortuga	8c	20 m
Corto	8a	18 m
Lazuret	8b	20 m
Mr. Big hand	8b+	28 m
Gospodar prstanov	7c+	15 m
Manana	7c	12 m
Hobit	7c	17 m
Talk is cheap!	8c	15 m
Vicious circle	9a+/b	16 m
Za staro kolo in majhnega psa	8c+	13 m
Sanjski par	8c	10 m
Sanjski par extension	9a	16 m
Peskovnik	7b	9 m
Sistolitični vrt	7b+	4 m
B – Central part
Pičkin dim	6b+	14 m
Tazio	6c	14 m
Kurčji rock	6c+	14 m
Ribalton	7a+	18 m
Čao bejbe	8a	20 m
Iglu	8a	20 m
Flash dance	7c	20 m
Angie wall	7c	24 m
Rock’n’roll	7c	22 m
Galaktika	8a	25 m
Strta srca	8a+	9 m
Twin peaks	7c	7 m
Stinger	7c	24 m
No fly zone	8b	24 m
Skodelica kave	7b	23 m
Nina	7b	21 m
Danger zone	7a	19 m
Nikita	7b+	19 m
Minulet	7b+	19 m
Ponarejeni minulet	6c+	19 m
Ponarejena želva	7b	20 m
Oro puro	7c	20 m
Teta Liza	7a	19 m
Moving shadow	7b+	16 m
9a – 1. part	6c	19 m
9a	7c	30 m
Uncle Ben	7b	19 m
Ljubezen na prvi pogled – 1. part	7b	19 m
Ljubezen na prvi pogled	7c+	30 m
Eagles	8b	19 m
Caffe expresso	8a+	30 m
Dolga kava	7c	30 m
Nočna kronika	8b	30 m
Nočna kronika – 1. part	7c	23 m
Urbanova	8a	30 m
Uživancija	8a	30 m
Veseli tobogan (only in between the tufas)	8a	10 m
Popolni mrk	8c	30 m
Sreča vrtnice	8b	32 m
Sreča vrtnice – 1. part	7a+	21 m
Gorenjski šnops	8b	32 m
Gorenjski šnops – 1. part	7a	16 m
Albanski konjak	8a	31 m
Albanski konjak – 1. part	6c+	18 m
Kranjska sivka	6c	18 m
Rodeo	7a	18 m
Corrida	8c	31 m
Histerija	8c+	32 m
Ptičja perspektiva	8a+	32 m
Ptičja perspektiva – 1. part	7b	20 m
Krvave dimlje	7b+	19 m
Pikova dama	8b	32 m
Vizija	8c	30 m
Karizma	8b+	32 m
Triad	8a	23 m
Človek ne jezi se – 1. part	8c	16 m
Ekstaza	8c+	40 m
Človek ne jezi se	8c+	41 m
Sanje za dušo	8b+	40 m
Xaxid hostel	9a	42 m
J.S.F.K. – 1. part	7c+	16 m
J.S.F.K.	8b	41 m
Figa	7b	16 m
Figaro	8a+	40 m
Blood, sugar, sex, magic	8a	18 m
Bula	7b+	18 m
Giljotina	8a	18 m
Bastilla	8a+	27 m
Bastilla (to the top)	8b+	40 m
Highlander	8a+	19 m
Izgubljeni sin	8a+	40 m
Samsara	8a	19 m
Mrtvaški ples	8b	19 m
Marioneta	8b+	19 m
Lahko noč, Irena	8a+	25 m
Mozaik	7c+	25 m
Milennium	8b+	40 m
Hugo	7c	25 m
Popaj	8a+	32 m
Lucky luke	8b	32 m
Chiquita	8b	32 m
Chiquita – 1. part	8a	25 m
Preobrazba	7c+	23 m
Klobasa – Preobrazba	7c	23 m
Klobasa	8a+	23 m
Kaj ti je deklica?	8b+	32 m
Oktoberfest	8a	29 m
Pasja radost	7b+	18 m
Šunka	7c+	33 m
Krvavica	7a+	29 m
Krvavica – 1. part	7a	18 m
Godla	7c+	35 m
Godla – 1. part	7b	25 m
Kamnolom	6a	15 m
Tretje tisočletje	8a	29 m
Tretje tisočletje – 1 part	6a+	16 m
Pečenica	6b+	25 m
Pečenica – 1. part	6b+	17 m
Pleskavica	7a	17 m
Lisičji raz	7b	26 m
Hugolina	7b+	24 m
Pinot	7c	24 m
C – Right part
Deževna sodba	7c	24 m
Hrenovka	6b	23 m
Euro	7a+	4 m
Čevapčič	6c	22 m
Sneguljčica	5c	7 m
Bedarija	7a+	13 m
7 palčkov	6c	7 m
Timo	6c	15 m
Truplojedka	8a	7 m
Matrix	8b	9 m
Missing drink	8b+	13 m
Missing link	8b+	13 m
Natural link	8c	13 m
Konec mira	8c+	16 m
Marjetica	8b	14 m
Pingvin	8a+	16 m
Pingvin (to the right)	8a	16 m
Sonce v očeh	8a+	16 m
Martin Krpan	9a	22 m
Strelovod	8c	18 m
Runo	7b+	16 m
Reksi	7b	16 m
Lesi	7b	16 m
VR6	7c	16 m
Zajček	8a	16 m
Platfus	7a+	15 m
JSKŽ	7a+	18 m
Afrodita	6a+	17 m
Afrodiziak	6c+	15 m
Švejk	7a	15 m
Krjavelj	6a+	15 m
Mišja luknja	5b	14 m
Podgana	6a+	15 m
Prehod za pešce	4a	15 m
Prijateljica noči	7a	12 m
Sovražnica	7b+	15 m
Črna luknja	6c+	16 m
Sexy zajeda	6c+	15 m
Za star moped in hudga psa	7a+	16 m
Dežela šalc	5a	15 m
Igra	7b	16 m
Grom	6a	9 m
Strela	5b	9 m
Milky way	6b	9 m
Bounty	6c	9 m
Rest day	7b+	9 m
Snickers	6c	9 m
Mars	6b+	14 m
Milka	6a	14 m
Gorenjka	6c	13 m
Raffaelo	6b	13 m
Twix	5b	14 m