Mišja peč

Mišja peč – the queen of Slovenian top level climbing. With its horseshoe shape it brings luck to all good climbers. In the last couple of years a lot of easier routes were bolted, and climbers got better as well, so Mišja finally lost its infamous label of an elitist playground, though you may still get a funny look if you study a “warmup“ route for the 8‘s for too long. It helps if you are strong. And have excellent technique, along with stamina. In fact, you need to be good at everything.
ACCESS
Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking. It costs 5€/day and you have to pay it with mobile phone. When going uphill use well trodden paths – you will get to the left or the right part of the crag, then just follow the wall around.
PARKING GPS
N 45°56’73.1”, E 13°86’24.6” payable with EasyPark’s App 5€/day, 10€/3days or 15€/7days
WEATHER
Mišja withstands the worst conditions – even rain and wind can‘t touch it. In the summer there is enough shade on the sides (especially the right) – shame that the routes are unrewarding. In the winter the warmest place is the Beach (left side of the central part). After heavy rains many tufas can get wet, but good climbers don‘t mind that.
QUALITY
Mišja is nicely maintained and often rebolted, except for a few forgotten routes. Practically all the routes have an anchor with a carabiner. But it‘s harder to praise all the qiuckdraws, which hang in many routes – some of them are dangerously worn out and are just begging to be replaced. The rock quality in Mišja is superb – only rarely a foothold may break. Under the wall there is enough space for a small picnic or several baby carriages.
GEAR
Watch out only on longer routes, otherwise even the 60-meter rope should be fine. The same goes for quickdraws – 14 are usually enough. For longer routes you don’t need more then 80-meter rope and 16 quickdraws.
ROUTES
Basically all the routes are slightly or heavily overhanging and you need a lot of strength, endurance or sometimes both. Still, you can be surprised by quite technical, vertical parts. It‘s good to be at home among tufas, and all the longer routes have great no hand rests, if you are skilled enough. Sadly some of the classics are very polished and some of them would easily deserve a plus more. The best routes start around 7a.
TRIVIA
The first route, that started its life as an aid climb Lastovke, is today known as Preobrazba 7c+, and was freed by Srečo Rehberger in the late 80s.
EAT & DRINK we recommend…
Viki Burger, 6275, Črni kal, Slovenija
+386 (0) 5 659 21 55, +386 (0) 40 799 501, [email protected], www.facebook.com, Opens MO – SU: 7Am – 22PM (opening hours are longer in summer)
A legendary meeting point for climber since 1989. The best place to drink a coffee and have a breakfast in the morning while waiting for your friends to go climbing in Mišja peč, Osp or Črni kal. And of course, the best spot to drink a beer or two and eat a magnificent meat/vegetarian/vegan burger after perfect climbing day. They also make their own cakes and ice cream. A must place to visit! Free WIFI!
SLEEP we had experienced…
Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/
New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!
Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija
+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si
Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.
NOTES
The crag is situated outside the village, which doesn‘t absolve you from basic rules of etiquette. Watch out where you are walking, don‘t pick fruits, take your trash with you and try to satisfy your basic needs at home, in the camp or at Viki burger.
- Mišja peč
- Mišja peč
- Mišja peč
- Mišja peč
- Mišja peč
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- Mišja peč
- Mišja peč
- Stefan Bednar in Talk is cheap (8c)
- Borna Čujić in Strelovod (8c)
- Domen Škofic in Sanjski par (9a)
- Mario Cortese bolting a new project
- Anže Varga in Sonce v očeh (8a+)
- Jurica Levatić in Vizija (8c)
- Stefan Bednar in Sanjski par (9a)
- Lukasz Dudek in Martin Krpan (9a)
- Mišja peč & birds in the sky
- Stefan Bednar Mišja peč ClimbIstria
ROUTES (from left to right)
A – Left part | ||||
Slinavka | 5a | 14 m | ||
Parkljevka | 5b | 14 m | ||
Brbončica | 6a+ | 14 m | ||
Harry Potter | 6a+ | 16 m | ||
Bradavičarka | 6a+ | 17 m | ||
Mojčina | 5a+ | 17 m | ||
Ksenjina | 5a | 17 m | ||
Naritko Mitko | 5a+ | 17 m | ||
Lukova | 6c | 17 m | ||
Jožetova | 6a | 20 m | ||
Dragotova | 6b | 20 m | ||
Sorinina | 6c | 20 m | ||
Pepel | 6b+ | 15 m | ||
Varianta pepela | 6b | 15 m | ||
Jumbo | 7a | 17 m | ||
Meteorit | 7c | 19 m | ||
Poontang | 7b+ | 16 m | ||
Sternschnuppe | 7b | 15 m | ||
Mičkena | 6c+ | 12 m | ||
Frenkova | 7a | 23 m | ||
Johanova | 7c | 20 m | ||
Nido | 7b | 15 m | ||
Kinder garten direkt | 7b | 18 m | ||
Kinder garten | 7a+ | 18 m | ||
Matamoros | 7c | 18 m | ||
Tekila | 8a | 19 m | ||
Durango | 7b+ | 19 m | ||
Tortuga a | 7b | 13 m | ||
Tortuga b | 7c | 13 m | ||
Ninja želva – the extension of Tortuga | 8b+ | 20 m | ||
Corto | 8a | 18 m | ||
Lazuret | 8b | 20 m | ||
Mr. Big hand | 8b+ | 28 m | ||
Gospodar prstanov | 7c+ | 15 m | ||
Manana | 7c | 12 m | ||
Hobit | 7c | 17 m | ||
Talk is cheap! | 8c | 15 m | ||
Vicious circle | 9a+/b | 16 m | ||
Za staro kolo in majhnega psa | 8c+ | 13 m | ||
Sanjski par | 8c | 10 m | ||
Sanjski par extension | 9a | 16 m | ||
Peskovnik | 7b | 9 m | ||
Sistolitični vrt | 7b+ | 4 m | ||
B – Central part | ||||
Pičkin dim | 6b+ | 14 m | ||
Tazio | 6c | 14 m | ||
Kurčji rock | 6c+ | 14 m | ||
Ribalton | 7a+ | 18 m | ||
Čao bejbe | 8a | 20 m | ||
Iglu | 8a | 20 m | ||
Flash dance | 7c | 20 m | ||
Angie wall | 7c | 24 m | ||
Rock’n’roll | 7c+ | 22 m | ||
Galaktika | 8a | 25 m | ||
P | ? | 9 m | ||
Strta srca | 8a+ | 9 m | ||
Twin peaks | 7c+ | 7 m | ||
Stinger | 7c | 24 m | ||
Pinč v klinču | 7b+ | 24 m | ||
No fly zone | 8b | 24 m | ||
Skodelica kave | 7b | 23 m | ||
Nina | 7b | 21 m | ||
Danger zone | 7a | 19 m | ||
Nikita | 7b+ | 19 m | ||
Minulet | 7b+ | 19 m | ||
Ponarejeni minulet | 6c+ | 19 m | ||
Ponarejena želva | 7b | 20 m | ||
Oro puro | 7c | 20 m | ||
Teta Liza | 7a | 19 m | ||
Moving shadow | 7b+ | 16 m | ||
9a – 1. part | 6c | 19 m | ||
9a | 7c | 30 m | ||
Uncle Ben | 7b | 19 m | ||
Ljubezen na prvi pogled – 1. part | 7b | 19 m | ||
Ljubezen na prvi pogled | 7c+ | 30 m | ||
Eagles | 8b | 19 m | ||
Caffe expresso | 8a+ | 30 m | ||
Dolga kava | 7c | 30 m | ||
Nočna kronika | 8b | 30 m | ||
Nočna kronika – 1. part | 7c+ | 23 m | ||
Cona ugodja | 7c | 30 m | ||
Urbanova | 8a | 30 m | ||
Uživancija | 8a | 30 m | ||
Veseli tobogan (only in between the tufas) | 8a | 10 m | ||
Popolni mrk | 8c | 30 m | ||
Sreča vrtnice | 8b | 32 m | ||
Sreča vrtnice – 1. part | 7a+ | 21 m | ||
Gorenjski šnops | 8b | 32 m | ||
Gorenjski šnops – 1. part | 7a | 16 m | ||
Albanski konjak | 8a | 31 m | ||
Albanski konjak – 1. part | 6c+ | 18 m | ||
Kranjska sivka | 6c | 18 m | ||
Rodeo | 7a | 18 m | ||
Corrida | 8c | 31 m | ||
Histerija | 8c+ | 32 m | ||
Ptičja perspektiva | 8a+ | 32 m | ||
Ptičja perspektiva – 1. part | 7b | 20 m | ||
Krvave dimlje | 7b+ | 19 m | ||
Pikova dama | 8b | 32 m | ||
Vizija | 8c | 30 m | ||
Karizma | 8b+ | 32 m | ||
Triad | 8a | 23 m | ||
Človek ne jezi se – 1. part | 8c | 16 m | ||
Ekstaza | 8c+ | 40 m | ||
Človek ne jezi se | 8c+ | 41 m | ||
Sanje za dušo | 8b+ | 40 m | ||
Xaxid hostel | 9a | 42 m | ||
J.S.F.K. – 1. part | 7c+ | 16 m | ||
J.S.F.K. | 8b | 41 m | ||
Katzo | P | 16 m | ||
Figa | 7b | 16 m | ||
Figaro | 8a+ | 40 m | ||
Blood, sugar, sex, magic | 8a | 18 m | ||
Bula | 7b+ | 18 m | ||
Giljotina | 8a | 18 m | ||
Bastilla | 8a+ | 27 m | ||
Bastilla (to the top) | 8b+ | 40 m | ||
Highlander | 8a+ | 19 m | ||
Izgubljeni sin | 8a+ | 40 m | ||
Samsara | 8a | 19 m | ||
Mrtvaški ples | 8b | 19 m | ||
Marioneta | 8b | 19 m | ||
Lahko noč, Irena | 8a+ | 25 m | ||
Mozaik | 8a | 25 m | ||
Milennium | 8b+ | 40 m | ||
Hugo | 7c+ | 25 m | ||
Popaj | 8a+ | 32 m | ||
Lucky luke | 8b | 32 m | ||
Chiquita | 8b | 32 m | ||
Chiquita – 1. part | 8a | 25 m | ||
Preobrazba | 7c+ | 23 m | ||
Klobasa – Preobrazba | 7c | 23 m | ||
Klobasa | 8a+ | 23 m | ||
Kaj ti je deklica? | 8b+ | 32 m | ||
Oktoberfest | 8a | 29 m | ||
Pasja radost | 7b+ | 18 m | ||
Šunka | 7c+ | 33 m | ||
Krvavica | 7a+ | 29 m | ||
Krvavica – 1. part | 7a | 18 m | ||
Godla | 7c+ | 35 m | ||
Godla – 1. part | 7b | 25 m | ||
Kamnolom | 6a | 15 m | ||
Tretje tisočletje | 8a | 29 m | ||
Tretje tisočletje – 1 part | 6b | 16 m | ||
Pečenica | 6b+ | 25 m | ||
Pečenica – 1. part | 6b+ | 17 m | ||
Pleskavica | 7a | 17 m | ||
Lisičji raz | 7b | 26 m | ||
Hugolina | 7b+ | 24 m | ||
Pinot | 7c | 24 m | ||
C – Right part | ||||
Deževna sodba | 7c | 24 m | ||
Hrenovka | 6b+ | 23 m | ||
Euro | 7a+ | 4 m | ||
Čevapčič | 6c | 22 m | ||
Sneguljčica | 5c | 7 m | ||
Bedarija | 7a+ | 13 m | ||
7 palčkov | 6c | 7 m | ||
Timo | 6c | 15 m | ||
Truplojedka | 8a | 7 m | ||
Matrix | 8b | 9 m | ||
Missing drink | 8b+ | 13 m | ||
Missing link | 8b+ | 13 m | ||
Natural link | 8c | 13 m | ||
Konec mira | 8c/c+ | 16 m | ||
Marjetica | 8b | 14 m | ||
Pingvin | 8a+ | 16 m | ||
Pingvin (to the right) | 8a | 16 m | ||
Sonce v očeh | 8a+ | 16 m | ||
Martin Krpan | 9a | 22 m | ||
Strelovod | 8c | 18 m | ||
Runo | 7b+ | 16 m | ||
Reksi | 7b | 16 m | ||
Lesi | 7b | 16 m | ||
VR6 | 7c | 16 m | ||
Zajček | 8a | 16 m | ||
Platfus | 7a+ | 15 m | ||
JSKŽ | 7a+ | 18 m | ||
Afrodita | 6a+ | 17 m | ||
Afrodiziak | 6c+ | 15 m | ||
Švejk | 7a | 15 m | ||
Krjavelj | 6a+ | 15 m | ||
Mišja luknja | 5b | 14 m | ||
Podgana | 6a+ | 15 m | ||
Prehod za pešce | 4a | 15 m | ||
Prijateljica noči | 7a | 12 m | ||
Sovražnica | 7b+ | 15 m | ||
Črna luknja | 6c+ | 16 m | ||
Sexy zajeda | 6c+ | 15 m | ||
Za star moped in hudga psa | 7a+ | 16 m | ||
Dežela šalc | 5a | 15 m | ||
Igra | 7b | 16 m | ||
Grom | 6a | 9 m | ||
Strela | 5b | 9 m | ||
Milky way | 6b | 9 m | ||
Bounty | 6c | 9 m | ||
Rest day | 7b+ | 9 m | ||
Snickers | 6c | 9 m | ||
Mars | 6b+ | 14 m | ||
Milka | 6a | 14 m | ||
Gorenjka | 6c | 13 m | ||
Raffaelo | 6b | 13 m | ||
Twix | 5b | 14 m |