Sector Behind the village and sector Babna (The Balcony)
An imposing crag directly above the picturesque village with quality routes of all grades good for a couple of years of climbing – what more could you ask for? Banje (also called Behind the village) is a playground for technical climbers with vertical routes, which are surrounded on both sides by overhangs. Babna (also called The Balcony) is considered the most popular crag in the area, being just a bit harder than Črni Kal and easier than Mišja peč, with long routes on vertical and slightly overhanging walls.
ACCESS
Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking. It costs 5€/day and you have to pay it with mobile phone. First walk back to the main road towards the village, pass the bridge, then use one of the two paths uphill through the village and you will soon reach the first crag (turn right and up upon reaching the church). For Babna the path extends onwards and uphill. Use only clear, official paths.
PARKING GPS
N 45°56’73.1”, E 13°86’24.6” payable with EasyPark’s App 5€/day, 10€/3days or 15€/7days
WEATHER
Ideal periods are spring and autumn and also winter (if the temperatures hold above 10º C and the wind isn‘t too crazy). In summer it quickly becomes too hot, but you can catch some climbing in Banje. You can do some climbing even in light rain – but if it gets worse, run away to neighbouring Mišja peč. After the rain the wall dries quickly, except for the tufas.
QUALITY
Osp is very well maintained. The bolts are new and bolted in a friendly fashion. There are anchors with carabiners almost everywhere. The quality of the rock is also great – but be careful while climbing longer routes on the right side of Babna, where an occasional hold may break off. Sometimes a loose rock may be launched on the climbers by naughty animals above the wall. The comfort under the wall is generally excellent, even for children – if they manage to walk all the way up.
GEAR
The standard gear is adequate. Still, be aware of the route lengths – sometimes even an 80 m rope is a bit short. You need almost 20 QDs for longer routes.
ROUTES
Banje is characterized by vertical routes of middle grades and a bit harder routes over the bulges with explicit cruxes. Babna is more diverse and offers a lot of joy for complete beginners in vertical routes on sharp holds, requiring good footwork. Harder routes in 7s become slightly overhanging, long, technical endurance pieces, and later also the power comes into play. Around 8s the routes start to dwindle. There are also some (average) multipitches. Old routes can be very polished and many are full of artificially chipped holds.
TRIVIA
In 1988 Osp hosted the famous state championship of Yugoslavia – though one of many it made quite a splash, and though it was dubbed for the “natural“ wall, all the routes of that time are artificially chipped – like Paris-Dakar, Ženski četrtfinale 88, Olympic,… After three days the winners were Vili Guček and Simona Škarja.
EAT & DRINK we recommend…
Viki Burger, 6275, Črni kal, Slovenija
+386 (0) 5 659 21 55, +386 (0) 40 799 501, [email protected], www.facebook.com, Opens MO – SU: 7Am – 22PM (opening hours are longer in summer)
A legendary meeting point for climber since 1989. The best place to drink a coffee and have a breakfast in the morning while waiting for your friends to go climbing in Mišja peč, Osp or Črni kal. And of course, the best spot to drink a beer or two and eat a magnificent meat/vegetarian/vegan burger after perfect climbing day. They also make their own cakes and ice cream. A must place to visit! Free WIFI!
SLEEP we had experienced…
Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/
New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!
Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija
+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si
Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.
NOTES
Carefully read the climbers’ code of etiquette, and follow it everywhere! Apart from that the Osp area is especially sensitive. Do not provoke locals with unsuitable parking or behaviour, stealing fruit, leaving trash and doing anything that you wouldn‘t tolerate from others on your own garden.
ROUTES (from left to right)
| A – Sector Behind the village AKA Banje | ||
| Osapski pajek | 8b+ | 18 m |
| Matičkov svet | 8b | 18 m |
| Osapska mumija | 8b | 18 m |
| Karies | 8a+ | 18 m |
| Vinko Coce | 8b | 18 m |
| Gronolom | 8a | 19 m |
| Šamanski prehod | 7c | 21 m |
| Amazonka | 6b | 21 m |
| Ženska finalna 88 | 6b | 18 m |
| Indijanka | 6a+ | 18 m |
| The Long Run | 7a | 20 m |
| Triceratops | 7c | 20 m |
| Paris – Dakar | 7c | 20 m |
| Pariški vrt | 7b | 20 m |
| The Garden | 7c+ | 20 m |
| Mlado vino | 7b | 20 m |
| Supersok | 7c | 23 m |
| Superhik | 6c+ | 35 m |
| Varianta Superhik | 6c+ | 32 m |
| Varianta Poljanski biser | 6c+ | 32 m |
| Poljanski biser | 7a+ | 32 m |
| Uparjalnik | 7c | 32 m |
| Super Elio | 7a+ | 27 m |
| Super Emil | 6c | 27 m |
| Super luknja | 6a | 25 m |
| Super Elica | 6a+ | 25 m |
| Tačko | 6c | 25 m |
| Le mavrica | 7b | 26 m |
| Domana | 7c+ | 15 m |
| Virus | 7c | 15 m |
| Jebiga | 6b+ | 25 m |
| Skriti zaklad (1.part) | 7b+ | 25 m |
| Skriti zaklad (to the top) | 7b+ | 37 m |
| Super beta | 7a | 26 m |
| Banje (1st part) | 7b | 19 m |
| Banje (to the top) | 7b+ | 33 m |
| P | ? | 19 m |
| Gad | 8a | 19 m |
| Osapska | 7c | 35 m |
| Kalifornija | 7c | 22 m |
| Kranjski Janez | 7c | 35 m |
| Polnočni kavboj | 7c | 20 m |
| Galeb | 7b | 30 m |
| Jonathan Livingstone | 7a | 33 m |
| Jonagold | 7c | 23 m |
| Poročna noč | 7c | 23 m |
| Zakonska kriza | 7c | 23 m |
| Festivalska | 7c | 20 m |
| Branko | 7b+ | 20 m |
| Brankova kriza | 7b+ | 20 m |
| Mibranko | 6c+ | 20 m |
| Miklavž | 7b | 18 m |
| Božiček | 6c+ | 18 m |
| Alenka L.T. | 6b+ | 14 m |
| Dedek Mraz | 6c | 18 m |
| B – Sector The Balcony AKA Babna | ||
| Pišta, Feri, Lajči | 3 | 16 m |
| Ledika | 4a | 16 m |
| Mufta | 4b | 15 m |
| Bograč | 5a | 18 m |
| Gibanica | 4c | 18 m |
| Taca muca | 6b+ | 20 m |
| Caprice | 7a+ | 23 m |
| Sapramiška | 7b | 21 m |
| Pablo pes | 7c | 21 m |
| Puzza di Cipolla | 7b | 21 m |
| Mai una gioia | 7b+ | 25 m |
| Fantastic Voyage | 8a+ | 25 m |
| Mosquitos wall | 7b+ | 19 m |
| Črna gradnja | 8a | 23 m |
| Buena suerte | 7b+ | 19 m |
| Idealist | 7a+ | 19 m |
| Jebena zima | 7b | 35 m |
| Trio Fantasticus 1.part | 6c+ | 20 m |
| Trio Fantasticus | 7a | 34 m |
| Leva bunkica | 6c | 16 m |
| Desna bunkica | 6b+ | 16 m |
| Senza corrente | 7c+ | 15 m |
| Hrenovnjača | 6b+ | 12 m |
| Bohomurček | 6b | 12 m |
| Ospomaniak 1.part | 6c+ | 16 m |
| Ospomaniak (to the top) | 7a | 37 m |
| El Garbo | 7a+ | 16 m |
| Vstopite in se veselite | 6b | 10 m |
| Grofice | 6b+ | 10 m |
| Tantalove muke | 7a | 35 m |
| Rutka | 4b | 30 m |
| Kameleon | 6c+ | 35 m |
| Daleč stran je sodni dan | 7b | 34 m |
| Si puo fare | 7b+ | 35 m |
| Eolo | 7c | 30 m |
| Eolo (to the top) | 7c+ | 35 m |
| Fragile 1.part | 7b+ | 25 m |
| Fragile (to the top) | 7c | 35 m |
| Sončni dnevi | 7b | 21 m |
| Rainy days | 7b | 21 m |
| Ko bo padal dež | 7c+ | 35 m |
| Frenki boy | 7c+ | 35 m |
| Šok terapija | 7b | 16 m |
| Joint | 7b | 35 m |
| Demolition party | 7a+ (6c, 7a) | 35 m |
| Češpljevi cmoki | 6c+ | 19 m |
| RKC | 8a | 23 m |
| Veper lady | 8b | 25 m |
| Martinova gos | 8a+ | 25 m |
| Zadnja skušnjava | 8a | 23 m |
| Vegas 7 | 8a+ | 23 m |
| Brancin | 8a+ | 23 m |
| Delirium tremens | 7b | 30 m |
| Maudit | 7a+ (7a, 7a+) | 43 m |
| Zmedeni in zadeti | 6b+ | 15 m |
| Pretty lady | 6c+ | 19 m |
| Proletarska | 7b | 38 m |
| Pretty baby | 6b+ (6a+, 6b+, 6a) | 50 m |
| El diablo | 7a | 20 m |
| Črna ovca | 6c | 13 m |
| Don Nino | 6b+ | 35 m |
| Dolgotacko | 6c | 27 m |
| Jaslice | 6c+ | 38 m |
| Olympic | 7a | 28 m |
| Derniere surprise | 6c (6b+, 6c) | 42 m |
| Le tapis volant | 6b+ (6b+, 6a) | 42 m |
| Belle epoque | 6a+ | 20 m |
| Ženski četrtfinale 88 | 6a | 21 m |
| Murphyjev zakon | 6c+ | 16 m |
| Mirage | 6c (6a, 6c) | 42 m |
| Sobotna priloga | 6b+ (6a+, 6b+) | 42 m |
| Chat noire | 6b | 24 m |
| Hard rain | 6b+ (6b+, 6b+) | 45 m |
| Prišlek | 6b+ | 45 m |
| Tormiento | 6c | 22 m |
| Tarantela | 6c+ (6b+, 6c+) | 40 m |
| Minister za zmedo | 6b+ | 37 m |
| Navihanke | 6c | 15 m |
| Mr.Hilti | 6b+ | 20 m |
| New look | 6b | 20 m |
| Potion magique | 6b | 19 m |
| Tora bora | 6c+ | 16 m |
| Just married | 6b+ | 20 m |
| No siesta | 6b | 20 m |
| Le plasir de la soir | 6a+ | 23 m |
| Take it easy | 6c | 33 m |
| Steber jutranje zvezde | 6c+ (6b+, 6c+, 6c) | 65 m |
| Killing me softly 1. part | 6a+ | 25 m |
| Killing me softly | 7a+ | 37 m |
| Killing me hardly | 7a+ | 37 m |
| Špehova | 6a | 24 m |
| Sea snake | 7a+ | 37 m |
| Moon safari | 7b | 37 m |
| Solitudine | 6b+ (5c, 6b+) | 40 m |
| Love story | 5c | 24 m |
| Ledeno vino | 6a | 25 m |
| Vik in krik | 6a+ | 23 m |
| Piccola peste | 6b (6a, 5c, 4b, 6b, 6a+) | 85 m |
| Ledena sveča | 6a+ | 25 m |
| Tiare Tipanie | 5a | 20 m |
| Maeva | 4b | 20 m |
| Čebelica Maja | 3 | 15 m |
| Fetia ura | 7c+ | 30 m |
| Črni biser | 7c | 30 m |
| Sužnji vertikale | 7a+ | 30 m |
| Za oslovo senco | 7a+ | 26 m |
| Il castigo | 6b+ | 25 m |
| Epena | 7a+ | 26 m |
| A tout coeur | 7a (6b, 6a, 7a) | 65 m |
| Toute de force | 7a | 19 m |
| Severi ma giusti | 6c | 23 m |
| Dolores | 6a+ | 20 m |
| Čauko | 6a | 23 m |
| Il giardino dell aephiornis | 6b (6a, 5b, 5b, 6b) | 75 m |
| Rawhide | 6b (6a+, 6b) | 40 m |
