Sector Behind the village and sector Babna (The Balcony)

An imposing crag directly above the picturesque village with quality routes of all grades good for a couple of years of climbing – what more could you ask for? Banje (also called Behind the village) is a playground for technical climbers with vertical routes, which are surrounded on both sides by overhangs. Babna (also called The Balcony) is considered the most popular crag in the area, being just a bit harder than Črni Kal and easier than Mišja peč, with long routes on vertical and slightly overhanging walls.

 

ACCESS
In the last few years a suitable parking space is always a pressing issue for the climbing community who can‘t find a common ground with the villagers. The situation changes all the time, but it is always forbidden to park in the village or on side driveways. Park in the Mišja peč parking space or ask in camp Vovk for alternatives. Otherwise the approach is simple: use one of the two paths uphill through the village and you will soon reach the first crag (turn right and up upon reaching the church). For Babna the path extends onwards and uphill. Use only clear, official paths.

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PARKING GPS
N 45°33’50.1”, E 13°51’46.6”

WEATHER
Ideal periods are spring and autumn and also winter (if the temperatures hold above 10º C and the wind isn‘t too crazy). In summer it quickly becomes too hot, but you can catch some climbing in Banje. You can do some climbing even in light rain – but if it gets worse, run away to neighbouring Mišja peč. After the rain the wall dries quickly, except for the tufa.

QUALITY
Osp is very well maintained. The bolts are new and bolted in a friendly fashion. There are anchors with carabiners almost everywhere. The quality of the rock is also great – but be careful while climbing longer routes on the right side of Babna, where an occasional hold may break off. Sometimes a loose rock may be launched on the climbers by naughty animals above the wall. The comfort under the wall is generally excellent, even for children – if they manage to walk all the way up.

GEAR
The standard gear is adequate. Still, be aware of the route lengths – sometimes even an 80 m rope is a bit short. You need almost 20 QDs for longer routes.

ROUTES
Banje is characterized by vertical routes of middle grades and a bit harder routes over the bulges with explicit cruxes. Babna is more diverse and offers a lot of joy for complete beginners in vertical routes on sharp holds, requiring good footwork. Harder routes in 7s become slightly overhanging, long, technical endurance pieces, and later also the power comes into play. Around 8s the routes start to dwindle. There are also some (average) multipitches. Old routes can be very polished and many are full of artificially chiped holds.

TRIVIA
In 1988 Osp hosted the famous state championship of Yugoslavia – though one of many it made quite a splash, and though it was dubbed for the “natural“ wall, all the routes of that time are artificially chipped – like Paris-Dakar, Ženski četrtfinale 88, Olympic,… After three days the winners were Vili Guček and Simona Škarja.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

Pri Vovku, Osp 20, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenija

Under the Karst edge in the Osp valley lies the village of Osp, world famous for its karst collapse. Tourist farm Vovk provides space for camping (camp) and typical local food (grilled dishes, seasonal dishes, side dishes: potatoes, cabbage, turnips, prosciutto cold cuts, pancetta, pork neck salami) and country wines. The campsite is open all year round and is suitable for families who appreciate peace and intact nature.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/

New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!

 

Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

 

B&B Vongola, Ljubljanska ulica 14a, 6310 Izola, Slovenija

+ 386 (0) 41 687 548, [email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/vongolaizola

Bed & Breakfast Vongola in Izola is made for climbers who desire something more then just climbing in nearby areas. The vicinity of the sea, the smell of fresh Mediteranean air, comfy rooms and tasty breakfast will fulfil every climbers’ soul and will give you some extra energy for climbing as well as for your daily activities. An extraordinary venue that is really worth a visit. Once you will visit us, you will return, for sure!

 

NOTES
Carefully read the climbers’ code of etiquette, and follow it everywhere! Apart from that the Osp area is especially sensitive. Do not provoke locals with unsuitable parking or behaviour, stealing fruit, leaving trash and doing anything that you wouldn‘t tolerate from others on your own garden.

ROUTES (from left to right)

A – Sector Behind the village AKA Banje
Osapski pajek	8b+	18 m
Matičkov svet	8b	18 m
Osapska mumija	8b	18 m
Karies	8a+	18 m
Vinko Coce	8a+	18 m
Gronolom	8a	19 m
Šamanski prehod	7c	21 m
Amazonka	6b	21 m
Ženska finalna 88	6b	18 m
Indijanka	6a+	18 m
The Long Run	7a	20 m
Triceratops	7c	20 m
Paris – Dakar	7c	20 m
Pariški vrt	7b	20 m
The Garden	7c+	20 m
Mlado vino	7b	20 m
Supersok	7c	23 m
Superhik	6c+	35 m
Varianta Superhik	6c+	32 m
Varianta Poljanski biser	6c+	32 m
Poljanski biser	7a+	32 m
Uparjalnik	7c	32 m
Super Elio	7a+	27 m
Super Emil	6c	27 m
Super luknja	6a	25 m
Super Elica	6a+	25 m
Tačko	6c	25 m
Le mavrica	7b	26 m
Domana	7c+	15 m
Virus	7c	15 m
Jebiga	6b+	25 m
Skriti zaklad (1.part)	7b+	25 m
Skriti zaklad (to the top)	7b+	37 m
Super beta	7a	26 m
Banje	7b+	33 m
P	?	19 m
Gad	8a	19 m
Osapska	7c	35 m
Kalifornija	7c	22 m
Kranjski Janez	7c	35 m
Polnočni kavboj	7c	20 m
Galeb	7b	30 m
Jonathan Livingstone	7a	19 m
JonaGold	7c	23 m
Poročna noč	7c	23 m
Zakonska kriza	7c	23 m
Festivalska	7c	20 m
Branko	7b+	20 m
Brankova kriza	7b+	20 m
Mibranko	6c+	20 m
Miklavž	7a+	18 m
Božiček	6c+	18 m
Alenka L.T.	6b+	14 m
Dedek Mraz	6c	18 m
B – Sector The Balcony AKA Babna
Pišta, Feri, Lajči	4a	16 m
Ledika	4a	16 m
Mufta	4b	15 m
Bograč	5a	18 m
Gibanica	4c	18 m
Taca muca	6b+	20 m
Caprice	7a+	23 m
Sapramiška	7b	21 m
Puzza di Cipolla	7b	21 m
Mai una gioia	7b+	25 m
Fantastic Voyage	8a+	25 m
Mosquitos wall	7b+	19 m
Črna gradnja	8a	23 m
Buena suerte	7b+	19 m
Idealist	7a+	19 m
Jebena zima	7b	35 m
Trio Fantasticus 1.part	6c+	20 m
Trio Fantasticus	7a	34 m
Leva bunkica	6c	16 m
Desna bunkica	6b+	16 m
Senza corrente	7c+	15 m
Hrenovnjača	6b+	12 m
Bohomurček	6b	12 m
Ospomaniak 1.part	6c+	16 m
Ospomaniak	7a	21 m
El Garbo	7a+	16 m
Vstopite in se veselite	6b+	10 m
Grofice	6b+	10 m
Tantalove muke	7a	35 m
Rutka	4b+	30 m
Kameleon	6c+	35 m
Daleč stran je sodni dan	7b	34 m
Si puo fare	7b+	35 m
Eolo	7c	30 m
Eolo (to the top)	7c+	35 m
Fragile 1.part	7b+	25 m
Fragile (to the top)	7c	35 m
Sončni dnevi	7b	21 m
Rainy days	7b	21 m
Ko bo padal dež	7c+	35 m
Frenki boy	7c+	35 m
Šok terapija	7b	16 m
Joint	7b	35 m
Demolition party	7a+ (6c, 7a)	35 m
Češpljevi cmoki	6c+	19 m
RKC	8a	23 m
Veper lady	8b	25 m
Martinova gos	8a+	25 m
Zadnja skušnjava	8a	23 m
Vegas 7	8a+	23 m
Brancin	8a	23 m
Delirium tremens	7b	30 m
Maudit	7a+ (7a, 7a+)	43 m
Zmedeni in zadeti	6b+	15 m
Pretty lady	6c+	19 m
Proletarska	7b	38 m
Pretty baby	6b+ (6a+, 6b+, 6a)	50 m
El diablo	7a	20 m
Črna ovca	6c	13 m
Don Nino	6c	35 m
Dolgotacko	6c	27 m
Jaslice	6c+	38 m
Olympic	7a	28 m
Derniere surprise	6c (6b+, 6c)	42 m
Le tapis volant	6b+ (6b+, 6a)	42 m
Belle epoque	6a+	20 m
Ženski četrtfinale 88	6a	21 m
Murphyjev zakon	6c+	16 m
Mirage	6c (6a, 6c)	42 m
Sobotna priloga	6b+ (6a+, 6b+)	42 m
Chat noire	6b	24 m
Hard rain	6b+ (6b+, 6b+)	45 m
Prišlek	6b+	45 m
Tormiento	6c	22 m
Tarantela	6c+ (6b+, 6c+)	40 m
Minister za zmedo	6b+	37 m
Navihanke	6c	15 m
Mr.Hilti	6b+	20 m
New look	6b	20 m
Potion magique	6b	19 m
Tora bora	6c+	16 m
Just married	6b+	20 m
No siesta	6b	20 m
Le plasir de la soir	6a+	23 m
Take it easy	6c	33 m
Steber jutranje zvezde	6c+ (6b+, 6c+, 6c)	65 m
Killing me softly 1. part	6a+	25 m
Killing me softly	7a+	37 m
Killing me hardly	7a+	37 m
Sea snake	7a+	37 m
Moon safari	7b	37 m
Solitudine	6b+ (5c, 6b+)	40 m
Love story	5c	24 m
Ledeno vino	6a	25 m
Vik in krik	6a+	23 m
Piccola peste	6b (6a, 5c, 4b, 6b, 6a+)	85 m
Ledena sveča	6a	25 m
Tiare Tipanie	5a	20 m
Maeva	4b	20 m
Čebelica Maja	3	15 m
Fetia ura	7c+	30 m
Črni biser	7c	30 m
Sužnji vertikale	7a+	30 m
Za oslovo senco	7a+	26 m
Il castigo	6b+	25 m
Epena	7a+	26 m
A tout coeur	7a (6b, 6a, 7a)	65 m
Toute de force	7a	19 m
Severi ma giusti	6c	23 m
Dolores	6a+	20 m
Čauko	6a	23 m
Il giardino dell aephiornis	6b (6a, 5b, 5b, 6b)	75 m
Rawhide	6b (6a+, 6b)	40 m