Sector Behind the village and sector Babna (The Balcony)

An imposing crag directly above the picturesque village with quality routes of all grades good for a couple of years of climbing – what more could you ask for? Banje (also called Behind the village) is a playground for technical climbers with vertical routes, which are surrounded on both sides by overhangs. Babna (also called The Balcony) is considered the most popular crag in the area, being just a bit harder than Črni Kal and easier than Mišja peč, with long routes on vertical and slightly overhanging walls.
ACCESS
In the last few years a suitable parking space is always a pressing issue for the climbing community who can‘t find a common ground with the villagers. The situation changes all the time, but it is always forbidden to park in the village or on side driveways. Park in the Mišja peč parking space or ask in camp Vovk for alternatives. Otherwise the approach is simple: use one of the two paths uphill through the village and you will soon reach the first crag (turn right and up upon reaching the church). For Babna the path extends onwards and uphill. Use only clear, official paths.
PARKING GPS
N 45°33’50.1”, E 13°51’46.6”
WEATHER
Ideal periods are spring and autumn and also winter (if the temperatures hold above 10º C and the wind isn‘t too crazy). In summer it quickly becomes too hot, but you can catch some climbing in Banje. You can do some climbing even in light rain – but if it gets worse, run away to neighbouring Mišja peč. After the rain the wall dries quickly, except for the tufa.
QUALITY
Osp is very well maintained. The bolts are new and bolted in a friendly fashion. There are anchors with carabiners almost everywhere. The quality of the rock is also great – but be careful while climbing longer routes on the right side of Babna, where an occasional hold may break off. Sometimes a loose rock may be launched on the climbers by naughty animals above the wall. The comfort under the wall is generally excellent, even for children – if they manage to walk all the way up.
GEAR
The standard gear is adequate. Still, be aware of the route lengths – sometimes even an 80 m rope is a bit short. You need almost 20 QDs for longer routes.
ROUTES
Banje is characterized by vertical routes of middle grades and a bit harder routes over the bulges with explicit cruxes. Babna is more diverse and offers a lot of joy for complete beginners in vertical routes on sharp holds, requiring good footwork. Harder routes in 7s become slightly overhanging, long, technical endurance pieces, and later also the power comes into play. Around 8s the routes start to dwindle. There are also some (average) multipitches. Old routes can be very polished and many are full of artificially chiped holds.
TRIVIA
In 1988 Osp hosted the famous state championship of Yugoslavia – though one of many it made quite a splash, and though it was dubbed for the “natural“ wall, all the routes of that time are artificially chipped – like Paris-Dakar, Ženski četrtfinale 88, Olympic,… After three days the winners were Vili Guček and Simona Škarja.
EAT & DRINK we recommend…
Pri Vovku, Osp 20, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenija
+386 (0)5 659 06 00, +386 (0)40 167 787, [email protected]; www.kmetija-vovk-osp.si
Under the Karst edge in the Osp valley lies the village of Osp, world famous for its karst collapse. Tourist farm Vovk provides space for camping (camp) and typical local food (grilled dishes, seasonal dishes, side dishes: potatoes, cabbage, turnips, prosciutto cold cuts, pancetta, pork neck salami) and country wines. The campsite is open all year round and is suitable for families who appreciate peace and intact nature.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/
New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!
Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija
+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si
Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.
B&B Vongola, Ljubljanska ulica 14a, 6310 Izola, Slovenija
+ 386 (0) 41 687 548, [email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/vongolaizola
Bed & Breakfast Vongola in Izola is made for climbers who desire something more then just climbing in nearby areas. The vicinity of the sea, the smell of fresh Mediteranean air, comfy rooms and tasty breakfast will fulfil every climbers’ soul and will give you some extra energy for climbing as well as for your daily activities. An extraordinary venue that is really worth a visit. Once you will visit us, you will return, for sure!
NOTES
Carefully read the climbers’ code of etiquette, and follow it everywhere! Apart from that the Osp area is especially sensitive. Do not provoke locals with unsuitable parking or behaviour, stealing fruit, leaving trash and doing anything that you wouldn‘t tolerate from others on your own garden.
ROUTES (from left to right)
A – Sector Behind the village AKA Banje | ||
Osapski pajek | 8b+ | 18 m |
Matičkov svet | 8b | 18 m |
Osapska mumija | 8b | 18 m |
Karies | 8a+ | 18 m |
Vinko Coce | 8a+ | 18 m |
Gronolom | 8a | 19 m |
Šamanski prehod | 7c | 21 m |
Amazonka | 6b | 21 m |
Ženska finalna 88 | 6b | 18 m |
Indijanka | 6a+ | 18 m |
The Long Run | 7a | 20 m |
Triceratops | 7c | 20 m |
Paris – Dakar | 7c | 20 m |
Pariški vrt | 7b | 20 m |
The Garden | 7c+ | 20 m |
Mlado vino | 7b | 20 m |
Supersok | 7c | 23 m |
Superhik | 6c+ | 35 m |
Varianta Superhik | 6c+ | 32 m |
Varianta Poljanski biser | 6c+ | 32 m |
Poljanski biser | 7a+ | 32 m |
Uparjalnik | 7c | 32 m |
Super Elio | 7a+ | 27 m |
Super Emil | 6c | 27 m |
Super luknja | 6a | 25 m |
Super Elica | 6a+ | 25 m |
Tačko | 6c | 25 m |
Le mavrica | 7b | 26 m |
Domana | 7c+ | 15 m |
Virus | 7c | 15 m |
Jebiga | 6b+ | 25 m |
Skriti zaklad (1.part) | 7b+ | 25 m |
Skriti zaklad (to the top) | 7b+ | 37 m |
Super beta | 7a | 26 m |
Banje | 7b+ | 33 m |
P | ? | 19 m |
Gad | 8a | 19 m |
Osapska | 7c | 35 m |
Kalifornija | 7c | 22 m |
Kranjski Janez | 7c | 35 m |
Polnočni kavboj | 7c | 20 m |
Galeb | 7b | 30 m |
Jonathan Livingstone | 7a | 19 m |
JonaGold | 7c | 23 m |
Poročna noč | 7c | 23 m |
Zakonska kriza | 7c | 23 m |
Festivalska | 7c | 20 m |
Branko | 7b+ | 20 m |
Brankova kriza | 7b+ | 20 m |
Mibranko | 6c+ | 20 m |
Miklavž | 7a+ | 18 m |
Božiček | 6c+ | 18 m |
Alenka L.T. | 6b+ | 14 m |
Dedek Mraz | 6c | 18 m |
B – Sector The Balcony AKA Babna | ||
Pišta, Feri, Lajči | 4a | 16 m |
Ledika | 4a | 16 m |
Mufta | 4b | 15 m |
Bograč | 5a | 18 m |
Gibanica | 4c | 18 m |
Taca muca | 6b+ | 20 m |
Caprice | 7a+ | 23 m |
Sapramiška | 7b | 21 m |
Puzza di Cipolla | 7b | 21 m |
Mai una gioia | 7b+ | 25 m |
Fantastic Voyage | 8a+ | 25 m |
Mosquitos wall | 7b+ | 19 m |
Črna gradnja | 8a | 23 m |
Buena suerte | 7b+ | 19 m |
Idealist | 7a+ | 19 m |
Jebena zima | 7b | 35 m |
Trio Fantasticus 1.part | 6c+ | 20 m |
Trio Fantasticus | 7a | 34 m |
Leva bunkica | 6c | 16 m |
Desna bunkica | 6b+ | 16 m |
Senza corrente | 7c+ | 15 m |
Hrenovnjača | 6b+ | 12 m |
Bohomurček | 6b | 12 m |
Ospomaniak 1.part | 6c+ | 16 m |
Ospomaniak | 7a | 21 m |
El Garbo | 7a+ | 16 m |
Vstopite in se veselite | 6b+ | 10 m |
Grofice | 6b+ | 10 m |
Tantalove muke | 7a | 35 m |
Rutka | 4b+ | 30 m |
Kameleon | 6c+ | 35 m |
Daleč stran je sodni dan | 7b | 34 m |
Si puo fare | 7b+ | 35 m |
Eolo | 7c | 30 m |
Eolo (to the top) | 7c+ | 35 m |
Fragile 1.part | 7b+ | 25 m |
Fragile (to the top) | 7c | 35 m |
Sončni dnevi | 7b | 21 m |
Rainy days | 7b | 21 m |
Ko bo padal dež | 7c+ | 35 m |
Frenki boy | 7c+ | 35 m |
Šok terapija | 7b | 16 m |
Joint | 7b | 35 m |
Demolition party | 7a+ (6c, 7a) | 35 m |
Češpljevi cmoki | 6c+ | 19 m |
RKC | 8a | 23 m |
Veper lady | 8b | 25 m |
Martinova gos | 8a+ | 25 m |
Zadnja skušnjava | 8a | 23 m |
Vegas 7 | 8a+ | 23 m |
Brancin | 8a | 23 m |
Delirium tremens | 7b | 30 m |
Maudit | 7a+ (7a, 7a+) | 43 m |
Zmedeni in zadeti | 6b+ | 15 m |
Pretty lady | 6c+ | 19 m |
Proletarska | 7b | 38 m |
Pretty baby | 6b+ (6a+, 6b+, 6a) | 50 m |
El diablo | 7a | 20 m |
Črna ovca | 6c | 13 m |
Don Nino | 6c | 35 m |
Dolgotacko | 6c | 27 m |
Jaslice | 6c+ | 38 m |
Olympic | 7a | 28 m |
Derniere surprise | 6c (6b+, 6c) | 42 m |
Le tapis volant | 6b+ (6b+, 6a) | 42 m |
Belle epoque | 6a+ | 20 m |
Ženski četrtfinale 88 | 6a | 21 m |
Murphyjev zakon | 6c+ | 16 m |
Mirage | 6c (6a, 6c) | 42 m |
Sobotna priloga | 6b+ (6a+, 6b+) | 42 m |
Chat noire | 6b | 24 m |
Hard rain | 6b+ (6b+, 6b+) | 45 m |
Prišlek | 6b+ | 45 m |
Tormiento | 6c | 22 m |
Tarantela | 6c+ (6b+, 6c+) | 40 m |
Minister za zmedo | 6b+ | 37 m |
Navihanke | 6c | 15 m |
Mr.Hilti | 6b+ | 20 m |
New look | 6b | 20 m |
Potion magique | 6b | 19 m |
Tora bora | 6c+ | 16 m |
Just married | 6b+ | 20 m |
No siesta | 6b | 20 m |
Le plasir de la soir | 6a+ | 23 m |
Take it easy | 6c | 33 m |
Steber jutranje zvezde | 6c+ (6b+, 6c+, 6c) | 65 m |
Killing me softly 1. part | 6a+ | 25 m |
Killing me softly | 7a+ | 37 m |
Killing me hardly | 7a+ | 37 m |
Sea snake | 7a+ | 37 m |
Moon safari | 7b | 37 m |
Solitudine | 6b+ (5c, 6b+) | 40 m |
Love story | 5c | 24 m |
Ledeno vino | 6a | 25 m |
Vik in krik | 6a+ | 23 m |
Piccola peste | 6b (6a, 5c, 4b, 6b, 6a+) | 85 m |
Ledena sveča | 6a | 25 m |
Tiare Tipanie | 5a | 20 m |
Maeva | 4b | 20 m |
Čebelica Maja | 3 | 15 m |
Fetia ura | 7c+ | 30 m |
Črni biser | 7c | 30 m |
Sužnji vertikale | 7a+ | 30 m |
Za oslovo senco | 7a+ | 26 m |
Il castigo | 6b+ | 25 m |
Epena | 7a+ | 26 m |
A tout coeur | 7a (6b, 6a, 7a) | 65 m |
Toute de force | 7a | 19 m |
Severi ma giusti | 6c | 23 m |
Dolores | 6a+ | 20 m |
Čauko | 6a | 23 m |
Il giardino dell aephiornis | 6b (6a, 5b, 5b, 6b) | 75 m |
Rawhide | 6b (6a+, 6b) | 40 m |