Sector Srnjak, The big wall and The big cave

Geomorphologically this is a part of Osp, but there are actually three different crags. Srnjak is a nice sector, but in the shade of other areas, the climbing in the Big Wall is slowing down for a while, but your true attention should be directed at the magnificent Castle cave or Spider‘s roof with epic routes in a sea of tufa. Great 7s soon transform into 8s and even higher – two 9a‘s are accompanied by some projects that are at least as hard. So join Bečan, Škofic, Sova,… at the creation of the exciting Slovenian climbing future.

ACCESS
Driving from Črni kal down the valley of Osp, after the sign for the village of Osp by the first house on the left, turn right on a dirt road and after 50 meters you will find the parking. It costs 5€/day and you have to pay it with mobile phone. Return to the the main road and continue towards the village. Just before the bridge turn right until you reach an old playground, from where you follow the path up towards the wall, over three bridges and some slopes. For Srnjak go left before the steep slope and cross the dry riverbed, which can also lead you to Luknja with some creative walking. There are three points to lower off the Big Wall: on top of the routes Steber spominov, Medo and Italijanska smer. You can also walk and the path will lead you to Banje sector.

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PARKING GPS
N 45°56’73.1”, E 13°86’24.6” payable with EasyPark’s App 5€/day, 10€/3days or 15€/7days

WEATHER
For Srnjak and Big Wall you will need a nice day, but Luknja is dry and sheltered. As it is in the shade of Big Wall, you can also climb here in summer. Climbing can be stopped by the unpredictable lake – the source of Osapščica river, which depends more on the weather in northern regions – unless you are ingenious like MacGyver and use a boat. After the rain the tufas get wet.

QUALITY
In Luknja the rock is excellent – but a tufa or two may break off (so belayers watch out!). On the edges the rock is sometimes quite rotten. Big Wall deteriorates more on the upper part, where you also need some courage and experience with climbing multi pitches. Routes are bolted nicely, but do mind the worn out quickdraws. There is room for the entire village under the wall.

GEAR
Routes are looong, even over 50 meters, but due to the overhang you can use 70-80 meter rope. You will also need a lot of quickdraws, at least 16. For the Big wall you usually don‘t need extra gear (nuts, friends,…), but they can come in handy.. Watch out, as the sand deteriorates you gear. In Srnjak and Big Wall it is advised to wear a helmet.

ROUTES
Srnjak offers easier vertical routes with sharp holds and small footholds. There are some nice multipitches in the Big Wall, but take your time with those. Luknja has classic endurance pieces, the best from 7a and more. The holds are good, with many tufas and mushrooms. You will get a a lot of pumping until you get cramps, true 3D climbing and many interesting cruxes. Of course you need to adapt to this style a little, but once you get going, it‘s the best.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

Viki Burger, 6275, Črni kal, Slovenija

+386 (0) 5 659 21 55, +386 (0) 40 799 501, [email protected], www.facebook.com, Opens MO – SU: 7Am – 22PM (opening hours are longer in summer)

A legendary meeting point for climber since 1989. The best place to drink a coffee and have a breakfast in the morning while waiting for your friends to go climbing in Mišja peč, Osp or Črni kal. And of course, the best spot to drink a beer or two and eat a magnificent meat/vegetarian/vegan burger after perfect climbing day. They also make their own cakes and ice cream. A must place to visit! Free WIFI!

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/

New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!

Hostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]; www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

TRIVIA
Climbing in Luknja dates to the very beginning of conquering the Osp wall, only then, in the 80s it was mostly aid climbing, with ladders and pulling on ropes. Spider‘s roof was at the time the longest traversed roof in the world with 190 meters, which was accomplished by mountaineering legends Karo, Jeglič and Knez.

NOTES
You are still in the Osp area, so the strict rules about behaviour and especially parking still apply! Also mind the prohibitions applying to the Big Wall.

ROUTES (from left to right)

Sector Srnjak:
Lijin vrt	6b+	30 m
T.O. Zelena dolina	7a+	30 m
Raz	7a+	30 m
Hopla konopla	7c	30 m
4800s	7a+	32 m
Govorna driska	7a	32 m
Me cago en el amor	6c+	35 m
Ringlšpil	6b	38 m
Judežev poljub	7a+	32 m
Poletna noč	6c	30 m
Bolj star, bolj nor	6a+	36 m
B.F. – posestnik iz Ospa	6b	36 m
Sveta preproščina	6c+	37 m
Urad za nepremičnine	7a+	37 m
Silvo Faruški	6c+	45 m
Noč čarovnic	6a	25 m
Ptičja gripa	5b	25 m
Angel Gabriel	6a	22 m
Javornik	6c (6c, 6b+, 6b)	50 m
Čudna so pota ljubezni	6a+	20 m
Sector The Big Cave/Luknja/Spider’s roof:
Pila	6b+	30 m
Žagca	6c+	30 m
Žaga	6a+	35 m
Sekolar	6b	35 m
Steber spominov	7a+ (6a, 7a+, 6c+, 6b, 6a)	85 m
Vitez iz Poljan	7a	30 m
Z balonom do sreče	7a	30 m
Pikapoka	7b	30 m
Pooping without peeing	7b+	30 m
Dance without sleeping	7b	30 m
Poskus ni ples	7b+	30 m
Try (just a little bit harder), L1	7b	30 m
Try (just a little bit harder)	7b+ (7b, 6c+, 7b+, 7b, 6c, 7a)	140 m
4 bis	7b+	30 m
Tržaška smer L1	7b	25 m
Tržaška smer (L1 + L2)	7b+	35 m
Tržaška smer	7b+ (7b+, 7b+, 7a, 6b+, 6a)	95 m
Varianta Tržaške-Supernova	7a+ (7b, 6b, 6a)	80 m
Leon	8b	35 m
Mamka Bršljanka	6c	20 m
Working Leon	8c	35 m
Working class hero	8b	35 m
Water world	9a	55 m
Poletna poč	6c+	20 m
Osapska pošast L1	7c+	25 m
Bala Bala	8b (8b, 7c, 6c,7c,7a+)	140 m
Osapska pošast	8c	55 m
Helikopter v pošasti	8c	55 m
Helikopter v omaki	8b	26 m
Bitka s stalaktiti	8b	55 m
Baram Baram	8a	20 m
Revolucija	8c+	30 m
Halupca 1979	9a	27 m
Troja	8a	25 m
Troja extension	8c	40 m
Couch surfing	8c+	55 m
Trojanski konj	7c+	18 m
Laokoon (extension of Trojanski konj)	8a	25 m
Zimovc	6b	8 m
Sedmica	6c	8 m
Active discharge L1	8a	25 m
Active discharge (to the top)	8b+	55 m
Šatida Bagaba	6a+	15 m
Rudolfo	5c	15 m
The secret project  (extension of Rudolfo)	8c+	55m
Aktivna burja	7b+	35 m
Leva burja	7b+	30 m
Črna burja – Bora scura (L1)	7b	30 m
Črna burja – Bora scura (to the top)	7c (7b, 7c, 7b, 7c, 7a+, 6c)	140 m
Magična goba – Fungo magico (L1 + L2)	7b	50 m
Magična goba – Fungo magico (to the top)	7c (6b, 7b, 6c, 7b+, 7c, 6b)	140 m
5 prijateljev	7c	30 m
Sector The big wall
Štafetna logika (L1)	6b	20 m
Štafetna logika	6c+	37 m
Stara	8b+ (5a, 7a, 8b+, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+)	130 m
Zimska simfonija	7b+ (5a, 7a, 7b+, 7a, 6c, 6b+)	130 m
Psycho	6a+	35 m
Una storia	6a+	35 m
Bereit, wenn sie es sind dr. Lecter	5c	25 m
Kopfuber	5a	20 m
Prečenje	7a (3, 4c, 4a, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+)	110 m
Velika zveza	7a (3, 4c, 4a, 6b+, 7a, 6a+, 6b)	110 m
Internacionala	7a (3, 4c, 6a, 7a, 6a, 6b+, 6b+)	110 m
Netopir	6b+ (3, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+)	110 m
Špargelj direkt	7b+ (7a+, 7b+, 7b)	115 m
Svinjam diamante	7b (6b, 7b, 6c+)	115 m
Medo	5c (3, 5b, 5c, 5c)	110 m
Super muha	6b+ (5b, 6b+, 6a+)	70 m
Goldfinger	6c (5c, 6b, 5a, 6c, 6b+)	85 m
Fuga da Alcatraz	6b (6a+/b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a)	80 m
N.N.	6c+ (6c+, 6a, 6b)	80 m
Italjanska smer	6b	80 m
Angel nero	7a+	80 m
Trst je naš	6c+	80 m
Cosa nostra	7a	70 m
Il signore degli elementi	7a	70 m
Piccola troia	6b+	45 m