Sector Srnjak, The big wall and The big cave

Geomorphologically this is a part of Osp, but there are actually three different crags. Srnjak is a nice sector, but in the shade of other areas, the climbing in the Big Wall is slowing down for a while, but your true attention should be directed at the magnificent Castle cave or Spider‘s roof with epic routes in a sea of tufa. Great 7s soon transform into 8s and even higher – two 9a‘s are accompanied by some projects that are at least as hard. So join Bečan, Škofic, Sova,… at the creation of the exciting Slovenian climbing future.

 

ACCESS
After you park your car at the appropriate spot (if there is no official parking space in the village use the parking space for Mišja), return to the beginning of the village and turn uphill at the bridge until you reach an old playground, from where you follow the path up towards the wall, over three bridges and some slopes. For Srnjak go left before the steep slope and cross the dry riverbed, which can also lead you to Luknja with some creative walking. There is also a shortcut between Banje and Srnjak (that passes some boulders). There are three points to lower off the Big Wall: on top of the routes Steber spominov, Medo and Italijanska smer. You can also walk and the path will lead you to Banje sector.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°33’50.1”, E 13°51’46.6”

WEATHER
For Srnjak and Big Wall you will need a nice day, but Luknja is dry and sheltered. As it is in the shade of Big Wall, you can also climb here in summer. Climbing can be stopped by the unpredictable lake – the source of Osapščica river, which depends more on the weather in northern regions – unless you are ingenious like MacGyver and use a boat. After the rain the tufas get wet.

QUALITY
In Luknja the rock is excellent – but a tufa or two may break off (so belayers watch out!). On the edges the rock is sometimes quite rotten. Big Wall deteriorates more on the upper part, where you also need some courage and experience with climbing multi pitches. Routes are bolted nicely, but do mind the worn out quickdraws. There is room for the entire village under the wall.

GEAR
Routes are looong, even over 50 meters, but due to the overhang you can use 70-80 meter rope. You will also need a lot of quickdraws, at least 16. For the Big wall you usually don‘t need extra gear (nuts, friends,…), but they can come in handy.. Watch out, as the sand deteriorates you gear. In Srnjak and Big Wall it is advised to wear a helmet.

ROUTES
Srnjak offers easier vertical routes with sharp holds and small footholds. There are some nice multipitches in the Big Wall, but take your time with those. Luknja has classic endurance pieces, the best from 7a and more. The holds are good, with many tufas and mushrooms. You will get a a lot of pumping until you get cramps, true 3D climbing and many interesting cruxes. Of course you need to adapt to this style a little, but once you get going, it‘s the best.

EAT & DRINK we recommend…

osp kamp_crPri Vovku, Osp 20, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenija

+386 (0)5 659 06 00, +386 (0)40 167 787, [email protected]www.kmetija-vovk-osp.si

Under the Karst edge in the Osp valley lies the village of Osp, world famous for its karst collapse. Tourist farm Vovk provides space for camping (camp) and typical local food (grilled dishes, seasonal dishes, side dishes: potatoes, cabbage, turnips, prosciutto cold cuts, pancetta, pork neck salami) and country wines. The campsite is open all year round and is suitable for families who appreciate peace and intact nature.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Hiša Robida, Črni kal 61, 6275 Črni kal, Slovenia
+ 386 (0) 31 494 572 or +386 (0) 41 523 644
[email protected]; www.hisa-robida.si/en/

New guest house in Črni Kal, only 5min to the queen of Slovenian top level climbing – Mišja Peč, Osp, Črni Kal! Best views of the Slovenian Istria. Stone House with tradition. Gourmet pleasures in the restaurant Kraški rob. The elegantly furnished 5 rooms with a bathroom & 6 rooms with shared bathroom, toilet. The best climbing weekends & holidays (also guide/ coach). Book B&B from 18€!

ocizla_crHostel Ociski raj, Ocizla 1c, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 (0) 40 874 745, [email protected]www.hostel-ocizla.si

Hostel Ociski raj is located in the heart of climbing areas. From hostel to Črni Kal is only 7km, 11 km away are world-famous Mišja peč and Osp. Also climbing areas like Risnik (Divača) and Val Rosandra (Italy) are really close. In the vicinity of the hostel there are many walking paths, as well opportunities for cycling and other trips. Hostel offers you accommodation in private rooms and in dorms with shared kitchen and bathrooms.

Rooms HrpeljeRooms Hrpelje, Reška cesta 43, Hrpelje, 6240 Kozina, Slovenija

+386 40 874 475; [email protected]www.rooms-hrpelje.si

Rooms Hrpelje are located in a new building in Hrpelje, really close to climber’s paradise of Mišja peč, Osp, Črni kal,… Rooms Hrpelje offer private rooms with a private bathroom for 2,3 or 4 persons, common kitchen, parking place, free wi-fi and TV. In the same building complex, there is a small market and a restaurant where you can buy or order your breakfast in advance, respectively.

 

TRIVIA
Climbing in Luknja dates to the very beginning of conquering the Osp wall, only then, in the 80s it was mostly aid climbing, with ladders and pulling on ropes. Spider‘s roof was at the time the longest traversed roof in the world with 190 meters, which was accomplished by mountaineering legends Karo, Jeglič and Knez.

NOTES
You are still in the Osp area, so the strict rules about behaviour and especially parking still apply! Also mind the prohibitions applying to the Big Wall.

ROUTES (from left to right)

 

Sector Srnjak:

Lijin vrt 6b+ 30 m
T.O. Zelena dolina 7a+ 30 m
Raz 7a+ 30 m
Hopla konopla 7c 30 m
4800s 7a+ 32 m
Govorna driska 7a 32 m
Me cago en el amor 6c+ 35 m
Ringlšpil 6b 38 m
Judežev poljub 7a+ 32 m
Poletna noč 6c 30 m
Bolj star, bolj nor 6a+ 36 m
B.F. – posestnik iz Ospa 6b 36 m
Sveta preproščina 6c+ 37 m
Urad za nepremičnine 7a+ 37 m
Silvo Faruški 6c+ 45 m
Noč čarovnic 6a 25 m
Ptičja gripa 5b 25 m
Angel Gabriel 6a 22 m
Javornik 6c (6c, 6b+, 6b) 50 m
Čudna so pota ljubezni 6a+ 20 m
 

Sector The Big Cave/Luknja/Spider’s roof:

Pila 6b+ 30 m
Žagca 6c+ 30 m
Žaga 6a+ 35 m
Sekolar 6b 35 m
Steber spominov 7a+ (6a, 7a+, 6c+, 6b, 6a) 85 m
Vitez iz Poljan 7a 30 m
Z balonom do sreče 7a 30 m
Pikapoka 7b 30 m
Pooping without peeing 7b+ 30 m
Dance without sleeping 7b 30 m
Poskus ni ples 7b+ 30 m
Try (just a little bit harder), L1 7b 30 m
Try (just a little bit harder) 7b+ (7b, 6c+, 7b+, 7b, 6c, 7a) 140 m
4 bis 7b+ 30 m
Tržaška smer L1 7b 25 m
Tržaška smer (L1 + L2) 7b+ 35 m
Tržaška smer 7b+ (7b+, 7b+, 7a, 6b+, 6a) 95 m
Varianta Tržaške-Supernova 7a+ (7b, 6b, 6a) 80 m
Leon 8b 35 m
Mamka Bršljanka 6c 20 m
Working class hero 8b+ 35 m
Water world 9a 55 m
Poletna poč 6c+ 20 m
Osapska pošast L1 7c+ 25 m
Bala Bala 8b (8b, 7c, 6c,7c,7a+) 140 m
Osapska pošast 8c 55 m
Helihopter v pošasti 8c 55 m
Helihopter v omaki 8b 26 m
Bitka s stalaktiti 8b 55 m
Baram Baram 8a 20 m
Revolucija 8c+ 30 m
Halupca 1979 9a 27 m
Troja 8a 25 m
Couch surfing  (extension of Troja) 8c+ 55 m
Trojanski konj 7c+ 18 m
Laokoon (extension of Trojanski konj 8a 33 m
Zimovc 6b 8 m
Sedmica 6c 8 m
Active discharge L1 8a 25 m
Active discharge (to the top) 8b+ 55 m
Šatida Bagaba 6a+ 15 m
Rudolfo 5c 15 m
The secret project  (extension of Rudolfo) 8c+ 55m
Aktivna burja 7b+ 35 m
Leva burja 7b+ 30 m
Črna burja – Bora scura (L1) 7b 30 m
Črna burja – Bora scura (to the top) 7c (7b, 7c, 7b, 7c, 7a+, 6c) 140 m
Magična goba – Fungo magico (L1 + L2) 7b 50 m
Magična goba – Fungo magico (to the top) 7c (6b, 7b, 6c, 7b+, 7c, 6b) 140 m
5 prijateljev 7c 30 m
 

Sector The big wall

Štafetna logika (L1) 6b 20 m
Štafetna logika 6c+ 37 m
Stara 8b+ (5a, 7a, 8b+, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+) 130 m
Zimska simfonija 7b+ (5a, 7a, 7b+, 7a, 6c, 6b+) 130 m
Psycho 6a+ 35 m
Una storia 6a+ 35 m
Bereit, wenn sie es sind dr. Lecter 5c 25 m
Kopfuber 5a 20 m
Prečenje 7a (3, 4c, 4a, 7a, 4b, 5c, 6b+) 110 m
Velika zveza 7a (3, 4c, 4a, 6b+, 7a, 6a+, 6b) 110 m
Internacionala 7a (3, 4c, 6a, 7a, 6a, 6b+, 6b+) 110 m
Netopir 6b+ (3, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+) 110 m
Špargelj direkt 7b+ (7a+, 7b+, 7b) 115 m
Svinjam diamante 7b (6b, 7b, 6c+) 115 m
Medo 5c (3, 5b, 5c, 5c) 110 m
Super muha 6b+ (5b, 6b+, 6a+) 70 m
Goldfinger 6c (5c, 6b, 5a, 6c, 6b+) 85 m
Fuga da Alcatraz 6b (6a+/b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a) 80 m
N.N. 6c+ (6c+, 6a, 6b) 80 m
Italjanska smer 6b 80 m
Angel nero 7a+ 80 m
Trst je naš 6c+ 80 m
Cosa nostra 7a 70 m
Il signore degli elementi 7a 70 m
Piccola troia 6b+ 45 m
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