After totally dry winter this year, with no rain for months, for climbers unfortunately some rain fell in the last days. Now some tufas might drip and there is a lake in the Osp cave. But, at least the nature and plants are grateful. Now while resting in between climbing in Istria, you can easily pick up wild grown asparagus everywhere around. Hint, they are the best with scrambled eggs. Here you have a recipe. 🙂
The latest climbing news come as usual from Mišja peč. Matjaž Zorko repeated Mr. Big hand (8b+) and Žiga Sedej did its shorter version Lazuret (8b).
Mr. Big hand was first ascended on the start of this millennium by Uroš Perko. The first tries and the vision of this monster traverse were first done by nobody else than famous Alexander Huber from Germany. He came to Mišja peč for a couple of short visits and did classics like Talk is cheap (8c), Missing link (8b+) and then he started trying this traverse that starts in Corto (8a), by the last bolt turns to the right, crosses Hobit (7c), Talk is cheap (8c), Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+) and finishes in Sanjski par extension (9a). The route is characterized by extreme long moves on OK holds in the roof which are separated by good rests. A true extremely steep endurance testpiece. Also the name of the route comes from abnormal Alexander Huber‘s arm span – that is why it is called Mr. Big hand.
For training or for fun you can either do its shorter versions. Lazuret (8b) which finishes in Za staro kolo in majhnega psa (8c+) was firstly done by Swiss black climber Simon Wandeler. Then you have the exit in Talk is cheap (8c) called Black power (8a+) firstly done by Klemen Vodlan and even shorter version White power (8a/a+) which ends in Hobit (7c) by Michele Chelleris. Too many combos! 🙂
In the central part of Mišja peč, Sebastian Castanetto ticked the classic power challenge of Mrtvaški ples (8b).
Before the cave of Osp got flooded, Italian Silvio Reffo flashed the amazing tufa fun route named Troja (8a+).
In previous news we forgot to mention the first ascents by restless local climber Goran Matika aka Gogo in Croatian part of Istria. In Limski kanal, in sector Krugi he freed the project he bolted right of Starec in morje (8b+). Now it has a name Black pearl, proposed grade of 7c+ and it supposed to be really good. After he climbed also an old project left of Der Suderer (8b) in sector Olymp in Kompanj. The route is called Zubić vila and graded of 8b. It is characterized by extreme hard boulder on crimps.
It is sunny again in Istria, conditions for climbing are great and it looks like it will remain like this. The Easter holidays are on its way, so for sure the most popular crags will get crowded, but you can always find some other more peaceful crag if you want to.
Enjoy the spring!