Stefan Bednar, 25 years old Erasmus student from Slovakia finally finished his long term project Sanjski par extension, 9a in Mišja peč. He was driving from Koper with his scooter to Mišja peč on a daily basis for 3 months till he succeeded in a fight with bad conditions.
This is Stefan’s first route with the grade of 9a. With crushing it he became the first Slovakian climber to reach that level out of Slovakia. The first Slovak who climbed 9a was Juraj Repčik back in 2004 in his home crag Visnove where he climbed the route Proces.
Sanjski par extension which means dream-couple in Slovene, is a route first climbed by Slovenian Uroš Perko back in 2003. It got repeated the same year by Czech climber Tomasz Mrazek. Afterwards it saw repeats by
Jorg Verhoeven and Kilian Fishhuber in 2006. Adam Ondra repeated it in 2008 together with another Slovenian Matej Sova. In 2009 Polish climber Lukasz Dudek climbed it for the first time after the break of a hold in
the first part. 4 years passed and Domen Škofic showed up in Mišja and crushed it as well.
The route in the left part of Mišja peč is about 15 meters long and involves around 50 moves all in roof. It starts with a boulder around FB7b, small rest, another hard boulder and you can already clip the first chain, now with the grade of 8c+. If you continue to extension, you have absolutely no rest but another 5 very hard moves to get to a bigger hold and the first shake. Afterwards last 5 meters are easier but they still need a lot of focus and endurance to reach the chain.
Stefan explained us about his next projects which include redpoint of Martin Krpan (another 9a), enjoying climbing as many routes as possible to fill up his hungry diary with lots of beautiful easier routes all around the Istria and some nice onsights as well, and finally to train yoga and pilates in school with full class of nice girls. 🙂