Mošćenička draga is a little fishing village, former home of ancient seaman Liburnians, which lies under the hill on which a medieval town Mošćenice rises from the sea and gives name to this place on the contact of valley with the sea. Although the approach is a bit longer, the crag redeems itself with superb views and a fantastic wall, where the best king lines are yet to be bolted – while those that are, will more than satisfy belay slaves, beginners and advanced climbers. Even the short ones are quite fun.
Find the only roundabout in Mošćenička draga and turn away from the sea towards Sveti Peter, Sučići and Obrš. Nice, winding road will lead you high into a small village of Obrš, where you park at the beginning and follow markings to the end of the village and left on the hill Straževik. The path winds under the woods, that cover it. Little before you get to the wall, which is in front of you the whole time, turn right, steeply uphill on a trail full of hairpin bends, that takes you to Zijavica. For Potoki park much sooner, a short drive outside of Mošćenička draga, before crossing the bridge, at the parking on the right. Take the left road uphill (you can go there with a car too, but it‘s narrow and the next parking is small). Soon you will spot a high wall on your left, with a small parking on the left side. Find a way to the top here. At the moment only the routes on a side wall to the far right are bolted (the path is not yet well trodden).
For sector A: N 45°24’84.80”, E 14°23’15.92”
For sector B: N 45°24’61.23”, E 14°23’92.82”
Zijavica will be too hot in the summer, but is otherwise perfect through the rest of the year. It can withstand some rain too. On the opposite, Potoki could be developed into a perfect summer rainproof crag.
This is a sharp, solid rock, full of holds, cracks and tufas, with corners, vertical walls and overhangs. At the moment, easier, vertical routes are bolted, but this is surely a crag of the future for some harder stuff.
Equipment is mostly good and new, but you may find some old bolts or anchors. The routes on the right are shorter and older, while the left ones are long and beautiful. Basic gear will suffice everywhere.
The space under the wall is top-notch for enjoyment, and the walk to Zijavica can be quite pleasant too. The Potoki sector is completely separated. Here, just a few easy routes on the side were bolted. but here lies one of the best potentials in this part of Istria, for many-meters-long cracked roofs and other king lines.
The wall in Potoki is easy to find – once you go uphill to the wall, you‘ll see one great line next to another: long routes, tufas, roofs, cracks… but none of them are actually bolted. For those you have to go through the woods to the right.
Although Zijavica is a decent crag with nice routes, here too seems that the first ones to be bolted were easy and vertical, along with the short ones at the beginning. The only stand-outs are Giant S and Giant File (dedicated to the climbers new born babies) and some fresh 7s, which indicate, that Zijavica could soon become a great crag.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2.
Apartman Natali, Golovik 25b, 51417 Moščeniška Draga, Croatia
+ 385 (0) 91 884 95 35, [email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/Apartman-Natali-983573358486980/
Apartment Natali is a brand-new apartment located above the village Brseč perfect for climbers who want to climb in Medveja, Moščeniška Draga, Brseč or Rabac. It is ideal for up to 5 people and in low season it will cost from 50€ per night. Welcome!
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Potoki|
|Sunčana večer||6b||30 m|
|Kišno jutro||6b||25 m|
|Dirty Harry||6a||28 m|
|B – Zijavica|
|Šuma Striborova||6c||23 m|
|Bratac Jaglenac||6c||20 m|
|Ramba Zamba||7a+||22 m|
|Rucki Zucki||7a||25 m|
|Remmi Demmi||7a||25 m|
|Lutonjica Toporko||6c||15 m|
|Neva Nevičica||6a||10 m|
|Veseli tata||4c||10 m|
|Zlatna sredina||6a+||10 m|
|Caffe au lait||4c||11 m|
|Smrdi muški||4c||12 m|
|4 U 2||6a||12 m|
|No money no honey||6a||10 m|
|Ja sam gad||6b+||13 m|
|This is not America||6b||13 m|
|Peep show||7b||15 m|
|Giant File||8a||15 m|
|Giant S||7c||15 m|
|Sam svoj majstor||7a+||11 m|
|One hand show||7a||10 m|