Buzetski kanjon

Buzetski kanjon is a diverse crag, whose widely spread sectors have one common point: they are all great! Three are set in a scenic 7 waterfalls gorge, made by the river Pivka, while the other two stand on the right side of the river Mirna canyon. Most routes are new and basically flawless. If you add climbing all year round, the close vicinity to romantic Buzet and the fact that the wild nature of the canyon is one of the most popular walking paths, you should ask yourself only this: what are you still doing at home?

ACCESS
Drive through Buzet direction Rijeka/Roč. When you see the Plodine supermarket on your left, take a right turn in the next intersection. In the village of Sv. Ivan keep to the right towards the Favorit brewery. You will soon get to a bridge over the Mirna. For Befana and Slap turn left before the bridge, for Pengari, Đoser and Plaža turn left after. Park when the road widens before the canyon. For the Zimski sector (Winter sector) a better approach is from Selca, the first village in the direction of Roč. Park and go down the hill, past the mechanic, to the edge of the canyon, where you look for a via ferrata down to the wall. There is also a path connecting Slap and the Zimski sector. Usually you can cross the riverbed at the confluence easily. There are clear and nice paths to all the crags, though you sometimes have to cross the river.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°24’29”, E 13°58’36”

WEATHER
In spring and autumn you can climb everywhere. Befana is best in late spring or early autumn (when it‘s nicely dry), also Slap and Džoser have some shade during the day. The Zimski sector (Winter sector) and Pengari are turned to the south and are best for winter. You can also climb in some rain – but especially Befana tends to get wet.

QUALITY
The rock is diverse, karsty, full of tufa and overall good. Only occasionally and in easy routes it can still break. All bolts are new and great. The most comfortable are Pengari and Befana, and Slap is also nice. Don‘t drag your kids to the Zimski sector.

GEAR
Routes are medium and long. For the most enjoyable ones take at least 70 m rope and enough quickdraws.

ROUTES
Climbing is mostly endurance with a power crux now and then. In the Zimski sector, Džoser and in some vertical walls the climbing is more technical. The rock is fresh and quite sharp, the grades are friendly.

NOTES
This is a precious and sensitive natural area, that requires special care, but luckily climbing is still a welcome activity. Water sources in the area are protected, so spill your old motor oil and potassium cyanide somewhere else.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia

[email protected]

In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 8€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Befana (Summer sector)
Samoborke 7a 15 m
Befana 7b+ 18 m
Befana Magica (extension) 8a 28 m
Štriga (combination of Befana and Neox) 7b 28 m
Giant Yass 8a 38 m
Neox 8a 28 m
Favorit 7c 30 m
Frenkie Goes To Hollywood 7c 35 m
Galaksija 8a 35 m
Vaška mafija 8b 35 m
Chica latina 8b+ 35 m
Lap dance 8b 35 m
Šefka 7a+ 12 m
Šefka extension 8a 35 m
Petra 7a+ 10 m
Fiumanka 7b 32 m
Ljetna sauna 7b 32 m
Night club 7a+ 32 m
Buzečanke 6c+ 32 m
Joker 6b+ 15 m
Joker extension 7c 35 m
Intermezzo 6b 16 m
Mailita 6b 18 m
Tnx A&D 6c+ 22 m
Životni ciklus 6c 24 m
Beach club Macumba 7b 24 m
Mateja 6b+ 17 m
B – Slap (Waterfall)
Finta di mona 8b+ 25 m
Izvor života 8a 30 m
Muška pizda 7a 20 m
Alita 7c+ 25 m
Inglourious Bastards 8b+ 25 m
Grinta 8c 25 m
C – Zimski (Winter sector)
Apokalipso 7b+ 15 m
P ? 15 m
The king 7c+ 20 m
Duh sa sekirom 6a+ 15 m
Darkwood 6c 16 m
Chico 6b 14 m
Zagor 6c 20 m
Činček 6b 18 m
Felipe Cayetano Lopez Martinez y Gonzale 6b+ 18 m
Blek Stena 6a+ 18 m
Parada 6c 10 m
Harder than your hausband 7c 20 m
Cedo ma non mollo 7c+ 18 m
Analthinger 7b+ 16 m
L’ Edipo 7b+ 16 m
Stone love 8a 14 m
P ? 14 m
Budi ponosan 7a+ 12 m
Teške boje 7a+ 14 m
I’m not a carpet muncher 8a 12 m
Ape Maja 6c 10 m
Easier than your wife 6a+ 10 m
D – Đoser
Mrvica 6c+ 10 m
Radioactive 8a+ 12 m
Ne cvikaj 7b 12 m
Mrle 7b+ 12 m
Đoser 6c+ 13 m
Gori Ussi 6b 13 m
Vrhi Ćićarije 6a+ 13 m
Nebo je žuto a sunce je blu 6b+ 13 m
Sedan dan 6c 14 m
Pakleni vozači 6c+ 14 m
The boys are back 7a 14 m
Black snake 7b+ 14 m
Never mind 6c 15 m
Over the rainbow 7a+ 17 m
Deep as Fukamushi 7b 18 m
Light as Asamushi 7b 18 m
Terra magica 7b+ 18 m
Šajeta 7b+ 18 m
Just do it 7b 18 m
Eternal flame 7a+ 18 m
Ronnie James Dio 7b 18 m
Ronnie James Dio extension 7c 20 m
Kameno srce 8a+ 20 m
Diablo 7c 15 m
E – Pengari
Il mago direkt 6a 25 m
Koke iz Loke 6a 25 m
The invisible bird 6c+ 27 m
Radio Gu Gu 6c 28 m
F*ck Slo, go Cro! 6c 28 m
Koperniko direkt 6a+ 28 m
Vamo tamo 6b+ 28 m
Sovarjenje 6c+ 28 m
Common sense is not so common 6c+ 39 m
Lenina 6b+ 28 m
Sidarta forever 6c+ 40 m
Bandiera rossa 6c 20 m
Elio Pisak, ruke stisak 6b+ 20 m
El Desperado 7a+ 20 m
Ništa od Jessy 7b 25 m
Too late 8a 28 m
Malik 7c+ 28 m
La petarda 8a+ 30 m
Mara 7c 30 m
Skitalica 7c+ 30 m
Mirna 8a+ 30 m
Bleach 8a+ 31 m
Nevermind 7c+ 32 m
Non habemus Papam 7b+ 30 m
Avanti forza 6b+ 20 m
Leta su, pameti ni 6b+ 20 m
Avanti popolo 6a 35 m
Bolting weekend 6a 33 m
Silent is golden 6a 32 m
Pasareta 6a 33 m
F – Plaža (The beach)
Blank space 7b 19 m
Dvogibka 7a 25 m
Brez veze 6b 25 m
Valentina 6b+ 27 m
L’oracolo direkt 6a 27 m
Tolmun 6a 27 m