Vela Draga
Vela Draga is foremost a breathtaking natural monument of geomorphology and geology, a part of Učka NP and the location of a walking-learning trail, which will take you into the past of this splendid natural phenomenon, teaching you about animals and plants and long traditions of mountaineering and sport climbing as well. The rock formations are actually better for admiring than for climbing. This is a special historical center of climbing, thanks to Italian Emillio Comici from Trieste, who in 1931 with his partner Stauderi scaled northern side of the Big tower. In 1986 began a more modern equipping of the crag, which continues to this day, although in climbing sense it is not really too special – you should come here for the environment and peace, without big ambitions.
ACCESS
Get going on the motorway from the direction of Buzet towards Učka tunnel. Right before the tunnel use the exit for Labin and Vela Učka. Drive behind the gas station, right and downwards. Cough up some money for the toll and turn left for Labin. Soon you will spot a big parking on your left with some benches. From here a learning trail leads through the woods to the edge of the walls. If you‘re a bit nosy, you will find the way down already at sector Fliper, otherwise there are more trails on the scree slopes, that lead you in the middle of limestone towers. They are then connected with a network of trails and with a bit of orientation skills you should handle yourself quickly.
PARKING GPS
N 45°31’99.77”, E 14°16’99.93”
WEATHER
Most constant conditions are in autumn and spring. Even though climbing in the rain is not possible, the wall dries quickly. In the winter you will need a nice day, while in the summer some routes are always in the shade or on the northern side of the walls.
QUALITY
The rock is sometimes good, but may, especially at beginnings, crumble a bit. You need a little experience to judge its quality, but as mentioned, you should take the relaxed, patient approach.
GEAR
Most routes (except Nad tunelom and multipitches) are fairly short. Basic gear is more than enough. The equipment varies – from good to bad, especially in small, scattered sectors and on multipitches. Climbing here is more old school and romantic. Take your time and embrace some deficiencies.
CLIMBING
Grey limestone is mostly slabby and vertical, with an occasional roof, crack or corner. Holds are quite sharp, from pockets, to big edges and small crimps. Mostly you should rely on good footwork. If anything, the harder routes are more technical and the longer ones will test your finger endurance. *
NOTES
You are located in the national park, so act accordingly: take your trash, don‘t destroy anything and don‘t make too much noise! Climb only in the described, equipped routes. The climbing of narrow tower, „Sviječa“, in the middle of the crag, is explicitly forbidden. Sectors are comfy enough and connected with a network of paths on the scree slopes. You can study some informative panels in between.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Roža, Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 (0) 91 540 8323, [email protected]; https://web.facebook.com/apartments.roza/
Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 91 169 62 67
[email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj and close to Krkuž, Raspadalica, RocknRoč, Sunset rock, HC, Buzetski kanjon,… Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2.
ROUTES (from left to right):
| A – Nad tunelom (Above the tunnel) | |||
| Wave of the future | 7a+ | 20 m | |
| Kameleon | 6c | 20 m | |
| ZOO | 6b | 25 m | |
| Nonićev | 6c | 15 m | |
| Fant | 6a+ | 35 m | |
| Sunčana luka | 6a+ | 30 m | |
| Petrin | 6a+ | 30 m | |
| B – Grga | |||
| Moje zlo | 6a | 10 m | |
| Grga | 6b | 12 m | |
| Cvrčak | 7a | 10 m | |
| C – Okno (The window) | |||
| Fa | 6a | 10 m | |
| Fu | 6c+ | 10 m | |
| Nad oknom | 6a | 10 m | |
| D – Furija | |||
| Apogej | 6a | 12 m | |
| Katja | 6b | 12 m | |
| Luna | 6a+ | 12 m | |
| Furija | 6a+ | 12 m | |
| Hydra | 6a | 11 m | |
| E – Rukavica | |||
| Huncut | 6c | 25 m | |
| Forma | 6a+ | 15 m | |
| Forma extension | 7a | 25 m | |
| Torpedo | 6b | 25 m | |
| Pukotina | 5b | 25 m | |
| Desni rub | 6b | 25 m | |
| F – Gorgona | |||
| Zimbabve | 6b+ | 13 m | |
| Fingerplay | 6c+ | 13 m | |
| Black coffee | 6a | 13 m | |
| Bijelo pranje | 5a | 13 m | |
| Cracker | 6a | 11 m | |
| Motika direct | 5a | 11 m | |
| Motika | 4b | 11 m | |
| Fu – fu | 5c | 11 m | |
| Vježbenik | 7b | 11 m | |
| Gorgona | 6c+ | 11 m | |
| ¸T.D. | 6c+ | 11 m | |
| Ružica | 6a | 12 m | |
| Žuta ruža | 6a | 12 m | |
| Bršljanov žlijeb | 5b | 14 m | |
| Ljubica | 6b | 15 m | |
| I am from Austria | 5c | 15 m | |
| G – Fliper | |||
| Bršljanov rub | 4a | 13 m | |
| Onaniko | 5c | 12 m | |
| Stojan | 4b | 11 m | |
| Fliper | 6a+ | 10 m | |
| Pinčica | 4b | 10 m | |
| H – Castello (The castle) | |||
| Simona | 6c+ | 12 m | |
| Črviček | 6c | 12 m | |
| Tony | 5c | 20 m | |
| Napoleon | 7b+ | 15 m | |
| Utopljena ptica | 6c | 20 m | |
| I – Krokodil | |||
| Plastic sausage | 6a+ | 12 m | |
| Amonijak | 6c | 11 m | |
| Dinamit | 6c+ | 11 m | |
| Krokodil | 6a+ | 11 m | |
| Eddie | 6a | 15 m | |
| J – Veliki toranj | |||
| You can do it | 5c | 18 m | |
| Comici brid | 6a | 40 m | |
| Odiseja | 6a+ | 15 m | |
| Feniks | 6c | 17 m | |
| Jugozapadni | 4c | 35 m | |
| Crna mačka | 7a+ | 20 m | |
| Californication | 6c+ | 20 m | |
| Tutti frutti | 6a+ | 20 m | |
| K – Ispod tornja | |||
| P | |||
| P | |||
| Smbelox | 6b | 20 m | |
| Fantazija | 7a+ | 22 m | |
| Milanov smjer | 7a+, 7a, 5c | 90 m |
