At the initiative of the Buzet tourist association a nice crag was equipped for belay slaves, beginners and climbers seeking easy going routes. Then Klemen Bečan dropped by and the area quickly got some harder routes. But of course, you should come here without bug ambitions and mainly with a desire to enjoy yourself or to make your first steps in the vertical world.
Drive out of Buzet in the direction of Istarske toplice (Motovun) and after a few kilometers you will enter a canyon, which is “hugged” by rocky gates, well known in these parts as Kamena vrata – the crag is on your right. Park on the left side on the banks of the Mirna river, carefully cross the road and you will be at the crag. The access is at times steep and sandy, so take it slow as to avoid a bruising or two.
N 45°39’86.86”, E 13°93’85.14”
The crag is on a sunny place, which rules out the summer, when you will be drenched in sweat, but since it has many corners and it lies in a canyon, you can find some shade in the transitional period or in the afternoon. Rain will chase you away.
No doubt about it – the rock is great. The routes are new, the bolts are flawless and perfectly bolted. Sometimes a small pebble may crack off, so be careful. The base of the crag is at times quite nasty. Especially mind the children, as the road below can be very busy!
Most routes are short, apart from the ones on the right. They are decently bolted, so bring 10-12 quickdraws. And good shoes to walk under the wall. For harder and longer routes on the right side bring at least 70 meters long rope and around 16 quickdraws.
Most people will come here for easy, vertical or slabby routes with nice holds, where even the basic knowledge of foot technique is adequate. Other harder routes have usually tough cruxes, so don‘t underestimate them – but better climbers can show the beginners how to milk a tufa or two.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Roža, Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 (0) 91 540 8323, [email protected]; https://web.facebook.com/apartments.roza/
Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 91 169 62 67
[email protected]; https://www.apartmentsdolores.com/
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Stone Age|
|Dječje radosti||4c||17 m|
|Light spit||5a||17 m|
|Digging for gold||5c||22 m|
|B – Botanicus|
|Iz kuta kruga||6a||12 m|
|Breaking bad||7c||15 m|
|Zvući teško||8a+||18 m|
|Da li ti se sviđam?||6c||14 m|
|Brus pajser||6b||14 m|
|Noćna smjena||5c||8 m|
|Gucci Gucci||5a||25 m|
|Geto u konobi||P||15 m|
|Šparoga blues||7a+||15 m|
|Kamena vratina||7b||15 m|
|Panzer division||7b+||13 m|
|Feed your fear||8a||13 m|
|Hit poletja||7b||37 m|
|C – Amazona|
|No sun no fun||7b+||7 m|
|D – The doors|
|Žili mi ruka||6b||14 m|
|Čistać kamina||5c||25 m|
|Way of saxony||6a+||27 m|
|Les salles degaines||6b+||28 m|
|Zmajeva linija||6a||30 m|