Buzetski kanjon
Buzetski kanjon is a diverse crag, whose widely spread sectors have one common point: they are all great! Three are set in a scenic 7 waterfalls gorge, made by the river Pivka, while the other two stand on the right side of the river Mirna canyon. Most routes are new and basically flawless. If you add climbing all year round, the close vicinity to romantic Buzet and the fact that the wild nature of the canyon is one of the most popular walking paths, you should ask yourself only this: what are you still doing at home?
ACCESS
Drive through Buzet direction Rijeka/Roč. When you see the Plodine supermarket on your left, take a right turn in the next intersection. In the village of Sv. Ivan keep to the right towards the Favorit brewery. You will soon get to a bridge over the Mirna. For Befana and Slap turn left before the bridge, for Pengari, Đoser and Plaža turn left after. Park when the road widens before the canyon. For the Zimski sector (Winter sector) a better approach is from Selca, the first village in the direction of Roč. Park and go down the hill, past the mechanic, to the edge of the canyon, where you look for a via ferrata down to the wall. There is also a path connecting Slap and the Zimski sector. Usually you can cross the riverbed at the confluence easily. There are clear and nice paths to all the crags, though you sometimes have to cross the river.
PARKING GPS
N 45°24’29”, E 13°58’36”
WEATHER
In spring and autumn you can climb everywhere. Befana is best in late spring or early autumn (when it‘s nicely dry), also Slap and Džoser have some shade during the day. The Zimski sector (Winter sector) and Pengari are turned to the south and are best for winter. You can also climb in some rain – but especially Befana tends to get wet.
QUALITY
The rock is diverse, karsty, full of tufa and overall good. Only occasionally and in easy routes it can still break. All bolts are new and great. The most comfortable are Pengari and Befana, and Slap is also nice. Don‘t drag your kids to the Zimski sector.
GEAR
Routes are medium and long. For the most enjoyable ones take at least 70 m rope and enough quickdraws.
ROUTES
Climbing is mostly endurance with a power crux now and then. In the Zimski sector, Džoser and in some vertical walls the climbing is more technical. The rock is fresh and quite sharp, the grades are friendly.
NOTES
This is a precious and sensitive natural area, that requires special care, but luckily climbing is still a welcome activity. Water sources in the area are protected, so spill your old motor oil and potassium cyanide somewhere else.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 91 169 62 67, [email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores/
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.
Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia
In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!
ROUTES (from left to right):
| A – Befana (Summer sector) | |||
| Samoborke | 7a | 15 m | |
| Befana | 7b+ | 18 m | |
| Befana Magica (extension) | 8a | 28 m | |
| Štriga (combination of Befana and Neox) | 7b | 28 m | |
| Giant Yass | 8a | 38 m | |
| Neox | 8a | 28 m | |
| Favorit | 7c | 30 m | |
| Frenkie Goes To Hollywood | 7c | 35 m | |
| Galaksija | 8a | 35 m | |
| Vaška mafija | 8b | 35 m | |
| Chica latina | 8b+ | 35 m | |
| Lap dance | 8b | 35 m | |
| Šefka | 7a+ | 12 m | |
| Šefka extension | 8a | 35 m | |
| Petra | 7a+ | 10 m | |
| Fiumanka | 7b | 32 m | |
| Ljetna sauna | 7b | 32 m | |
| Night club | 7a+ | 32 m | |
| Buzečanke | 6c+ | 32 m | |
| Joker | 6b+ | 15 m | |
| Joker extension | 7c | 35 m | |
| Intermezzo | 6b | 16 m | |
| Mailita | 6b | 18 m | |
| Tnx A&D | 6c+ | 22 m | |
| Životni ciklus | 6c | 24 m | |
| Beach club Macumba | 7b | 24 m | |
| Mateja | 6b+ | 17 m | |
| B – Slap (Waterfall) | |||
| Finta di mona | 8b+ | 25 m | |
| Izvor života | 8a | 30 m | |
| Muška pizda | 7a | 20 m | |
| Alita | 7c+ | 25 m | |
| Inglorious bastards | 8b+ | 25 m | |
| Grinta | 8c | 25 m | |
| C – Zimski (Winter sector) | |||
| Apokalipso | 7b+ | 15 m | |
| P | ? | 15 m | |
| The king | 7c+ | 20 m | |
| Duh sa sekirom | 6a+ | 15 m | |
| Darkwood | 6c | 16 m | |
| Chico | 6b | 14 m | |
| Zagor | 6c | 20 m | |
| Činček | 6b | 18 m | |
| Felipe Cayetano Lopez Martinez y Gonzale | 6b+ | 18 m | |
| Blek Stena | 6a+ | 18 m | |
| Parada | 6c | 10 m | |
| Harder than your hausband | 7c | 20 m | |
| Cedo ma non mollo | 7c+ | 18 m | |
| Analthinger | 7b+ | 16 m | |
| L’ Edipo | 7b+ | 16 m | |
| Stone love | 8a | 14 m | |
| P | ? | 14 m | |
| Budi ponosan | 7a+ | 12 m | |
| Teške boje | 7a+ | 14 m | |
| I’m not a carpet muncher | 8a | 12 m | |
| Ape Maja | 6c | 10 m | |
| Easier than your wife | 6a+ | 10 m | |
| D – Đoser | |||
| Mrvica | 6c+ | 10 m | |
| Radioactive | 8a+ | 12 m | |
| Ne cvikaj | 7b | 12 m | |
| Mrle | 7b+ | 12 m | |
| Đoser | 6c+ | 13 m | |
| Gori Ussi | 6b | 13 m | |
| Vrhi Ćićarije | 6a+ | 13 m | |
| Nebo je žuto a sunce je blu | 6b+ | 13 m | |
| Sedan dan | 6c | 14 m | |
| Pakleni vozači | 6c+ | 14 m | |
| The boys are back | 7a | 14 m | |
| Black snake | 7b+ | 14 m | |
| Never mind | 6c | 15 m | |
| Over the rainbow | 7a+ | 17 m | |
| Deep as Fukamushi | 7b | 18 m | |
| Light as Asamushi | 7b | 18 m | |
| Terra magica | 7b+ | 18 m | |
| Šajeta | 7b+ | 18 m | |
| Just do it | 7b | 18 m | |
| Eternal flame | 7a+ | 18 m | |
| Ronnie James Dio | 7b | 18 m | |
| Ronnie James Dio extension | 7c | 20 m | |
| Kameno srce | 8a+ | 20 m | |
| Diablo | 7c | 15 m | |
| Popravni ispit | 7c+ | 15 m | |
| E – Pengari | |||
| Il mago direkt | 6a | 25 m | |
| Koke iz Loke | 6a | 25 m | |
| The invisible bird | 6c+ | 27 m | |
| Radio Gu Gu | 6c | 28 m | |
| F*ck Slo, go Cro! | 6c | 28 m | |
| Koperniko direkt | 6a+ | 28 m | |
| Vamo tamo | 6b+ | 28 m | |
| Sovarjenje | 6c+ | 28 m | |
| Common sense is not so common | 6c+ | 39 m | |
| Lenina | 6b+ | 28 m | |
| Sidarta forever | 6c+ | 40 m | |
| Bandiera rossa | 6c | 20 m | |
| Elio Pisak, ruke stisak | 6b+ | 20 m | |
| El Desperado | 7a+ | 20 m | |
| Ništa od Jessy | 7b | 25 m | |
| Too late | 8a | 28 m | |
| Malik | 7c+ | 28 m | |
| La petarda | 8a | 30 m | |
| Mara | 7c | 30 m | |
| Skitalica | 7c+ | 30 m | |
| Mirna | 8a+ | 30 m | |
| Bleach | 8a+ | 31 m | |
| Nevermind | 7c+ | 32 m | |
| Non habemus Papam | 7b+ | 30 m | |
| Avanti forza | 6b+ | 20 m | |
| Leta su, pameti ni | 6b+ | 20 m | |
| Avanti popolo | 6a | 35 m | |
| Bolting weekend | 6a | 33 m | |
| Silent is golden | 6a | 32 m | |
| Pasareta | 6a | 33 m | |
| F – Plaža (The beach) | |||
| Blank space | 7b | 19 m | |
| Dvogibka | 7a | 25 m | |
| Brez veze | 6b | 25 m | |
| Valentina | 6b+ | 27 m | |
| L’oracolo direkt | 6a | 27 m | |
| Tolmun | 6a | 27 m |
