Istarske toplice

Between Buzet and Motovun, which almost compete who has more medieval charm, lies a health spa Istarske toplice with massages, saunas and swimming pools, but the climber‘s gaze will drift to the rocks that surround the spa, beginning with magnificent St. Stjepan with easy multipitches. But here lies a potential for one of the best crags in the area, from Hallelujah cave to the magnificent rocky edge on the left. You should come here, if only to stroll between sectors – the paths are great, while the scenery and the view are one of the best.

ACCESS
Drive along the old town of Buzet (on a hill to your left), beside the Mirna river in the direction of Motovun, Novigrad and Buje. Istarske toplice are well sign-posted – the turn is on your right.
For sector Frat turn left a couple meters before, go over the bridge, park and continue on a walking trail , that splits left for Majeri. Walk until a prominent left hairpin bend. When it turns right again take a small path left and uphill towards the crag.
For other sectors drive through the spa to the right side. Park without blocking anything. The approach varies from a couple of minutes walk to the 20-minutes uphill suffering – and everything in between. The sectors are far apart and it‘s not advisable to mix them. Because of some tough paths we advise against bringing children. For Hallelujah cave the approach starts on the side of the wire fence on the right and goes straight and steeply uphill.
For new sectors, go left from the parking, on a wide dirt road, which ends at small quarry. Before that, a nice walking path splits to the left and up and takes you to the ljetni/summer sector, on the bottom of which is another left split to a trail for sector B (MDMA, Dreaming Verdon and Wellness).


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PARKING GPS
For sector A – Sveti Stjepan: N 45°37’76.09”, E 13°88’35.82”
For sectors B, C and D: N 45°38’02.87”, E 13°88’61.11”
For sector E – Frat: N 45°’37’72.86”, E 13°89’06.00”

WEATHER
Most crags are sunny, even though you can always find some shade. Hallelujah and Frat tend to get wet after rain. Rain in Hallelujah cave is not a problem, which is not the case elsewhere – but you will get soaked while walking there, and the path gets quite slippery. Although The ljetni/summer sector is in the shade, best times are still spring and autumn and sunny winter days.

QUALITY
Rock quality in good, but it does break occasionally, as most routes are new. Only on St. Stjepan the bolts are older, while all others should be tip-top. Access is more or less strenuous and you can easily get lost in thorns, but it‘s mostly worth to sweat it out. The bases of all crags are nice and large.

GEAR
Depending on where you intend to climb. Except for St. Stjepan, where you need gear and knowledge to climb multipitches, the routes in other sectors can be up to 40 meters long, so you will need a long rope for those. In some routes the bolts can be far apart.

ROUTES
The routes vary a lot – from vertical walls on the left that will remind you of Verdon, to crazy roofs in Hallelujah cave. This is a crag that offers all climbing styles.

NOTES
When it gets warm the snakes may come out. These timid creatures shouldn‘t scare you too much. And, since you are here – why not jump into a healing thermal bath or wrap yourself in mud bandages, after a nice massage.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia

+385 91 169 62 67, [email protected]https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores/

Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.

Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia

[email protected]

In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Sveti Stjepan
Vrganj 6a+, 4a, 5c 70 m
Žaba 6a+, 4a, 5c 70 m
Koromač 6a+, 4b, 6a 80 m
Sveti Stjepan 6a+, 4b, 6b 80 m
Kušlec 6c+ 20 m
Tuljani u toplicama 6c+, 6b, 6b 90 m
Tri muža 6b, 6b+, 7a 90 m
B1 – MDMA
Crevati dai Coglioni 6b+ 15 m
Gringo Esquiador 6a 15 m
La guida non e gelosa 5c 15 m
Ascendente scorpione 6b 15 m
? 5a 15 m
Wet dreams 6a 16 m
Sky cola 6c+ 16 m
Sky cola effect extension P 30 m
I cavalieri del lavoro 7c+ 27 m
Dallas Buyers Club 7c 28 m
Panino con tutto 7c 28 m
Quadruvium 6b 30 m
Fernetita 7b 25 m
No xe per tutti 7c 25 m
Ghey team 8b 25 m
Fino a qui tutto bene 8b+ 24 m
P
Positive vibrations 6a 25 m
Mosca Petuski 7a+ 22 m
Il liberatore 7b 22 m
Chapeau 7c+ 23 m
The mighty cobra 7c 25 m
Black mamba 8a 25 m
Anticanon 8a+ 30 m
Risk management 8b 28 m
Digital love 7b+ 28 m
Analogic love 7c 30 m
Digital block 8a+ 21 m
? 5c 14 m
Analogic block 7b 16 m
Alpinismo senza gloria 6c 17 m
Alpinismo senza gloria extension 7b 35 m
Gimnosperma 6c+ 25 m
B2 – Dreaming Verdon
Te lo do il Mose il Verdon 7c 35 m
Finger fist 7a+ 35 m
Never ending maze 7b+ 30 m
Kaleidoscopami 7b 30 m
Finger therapy 7c 25 m
Il pane di una volta P 30 m
Pan e vin P 25 m
NXCB 7a 30 m
Pezzolato – Sterpin 5c, 6c, 6b 90 m
B3 – Wellness
Folgoration boy 6c 15 m
From Bosnia to Istria 7a 20 m
Balkan Express 7c+ 20 m
Ciuccio Muccio and friends 7c 20 m
Champs Elysees 8a+ 25 m
P
Te mazo a colpi de cazo 7c 25 m
Their law 8b 25 m
P 25 m
Pussy lover P 28 m
American gipsy 8a+ 25 m
P 25 m
P extension 45 m
P 27 m
C – Ljetni sektor (Summer sector)
Ground control 6b+ 35 m
Ganesha 7a 20 m
Major Tom 6c+ 25 m
Estate Indiana 6c 20 m
P 35 m
Bacer’s shark attack 7b+ 30 m
Petit Amelie 7b 25 m
It’s hard to be short 8b+ 25 m
Blik 7b+ 25 m
Baila Morena 6b+ 20 m
Blok 7a 20 m
Black Nadia 7b+ 32 m
Konan il Grigio 7c+ 30 m
Konan il Grigio extension 8a 45 m
Il volo della Martora 8a 35 m
Il volo della Martora extension P 50 m
Mi sento un po’zen 6c+ 20 m
Lukič dolina 7a+ 20 m
D – Hallelujah cave
No.1 5c 20 m
No.2 5c 20 m
P 15 m
Lassing Pressing 8a 15 m
P 16 m
P 17 m
Caveman’s playground 8c+ 20 m
Sunčana strana 7c+ 18 m
Schlangenloch 6b 17 m
Serum 6c 17 m
10000 6c+ 18 m
Kon Tiki 7c 15 m
Fragola con panna 6c 15 m
Rotbart 6b 15 m
Dichte Fichte 7c+ 12 m
Il conto unico 7b+ 18 m
Waffengenger 7b 16 m
Big fish 7a+ 25 m
Big Ben 7a+ 20 m
Schwarzer Finger 7a 20 m
Kolja 6c+ 20 m
Die Spinne 6b 22 m
Fingerprint 7a 22 m
Science friction 7b 22 m
E – Frat
Silenzio di Samba 6a+ 18 m
Krampus 7a 22 m
Babaroga 7c 22 m
Patata templada 7a 23 m
Troia o sposa 7c+ 25 m
Stargate P 25 m
Starghey 7c+ 25 m
Tanto brazo, poco c… P 25 m
Il mago della sega 7b+ 11 m
Fatta per Facco 7a+ 25 m
Pankeepa 6b+ 25 m