Kamena vrata

At the initiative of the Buzet tourist association a nice crag was equipped for belay slaves, beginners and climbers seeking easy going routes. Then Klemen Bečan dropped by and the area quickly got some harder routes. But of course, you should come here without bug ambitions and mainly with a desire to enjoy yourself or to make your first steps in the vertical world.

 

 

ACCESS
Drive out of Buzet in the direction of Istarske toplice (Motovun) and after a few kilometers you will enter a canyon, which is “hugged” by rocky gates, well known in these parts as Kamena vrata – the crag is on your right. Park on the left side on the banks of the Mirna river, carefully cross the road and you will be at the crag. The access is at times steep and sandy, so take it slow as to avoid a bruising or two.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°23’51.15”, E 13°56’21”

WEATHER
The crag is on a sunny place, which rules out the summer, when you will be drenched in sweat, but since it has many corners and it lies in a canyon, you can find some shade in the transitional period or in the afternoon. Rain will chase you away.

QUALITY
No doubt about it – the rock is great. The routes are new, the bolts are flawless and perfectly bolted. Sometimes a small pebble may crack off, so be careful. The base of the crag is at times quite nasty. Especially mind the children, as the road below can be very busy!

GEAR
Most routes are short, apart from the ones on the right. They are decently bolted, so bring 10-12 quickdraws. And good shoes to walk under the wall. For harder and longer routes on the right side bring at least 70 meters long rope and around 16 quickdraws.

ROUTES
Most people will come here for easy, vertical or slabby routes with nice holds, where even the basic knowledge of foot technique is adequate. Other harder routes have usually tough cruxes, so don‘t underestimate them – but better climbers can show the beginners how to milk a tufa or two.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia

+385 91 169 62 67, [email protected]https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores/

Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They offer offroad 4-wheel drive adventure in the heart of Istria and are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.

Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia

[email protected]

In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Stone Age
Miš 4b 15 m
No.2 5b 15 m
Gimnastik 5b 15 m
Gumarić 4c 15 m
Pifo 4b+ 16 m
Dječje radosti 4c 17 m
Light spit 5a 17 m
Č.T.B.K. 5c+ 20 m
Digging for gold 5c+ 22 m
B – Botanicus
Kokić 4c 15 m
Iz kuta kruga 6a 12 m
Breaking bad 7c 15 m
Bonsai 8b 20 m
Zvući teško 8a+ 18 m
Da li ti se sviđam? 6c 14 m
Brus pajser 6b 14 m
90-60-90 5c 8 m
Noćna smjena 5c 8 m
Gucci Gucci 5a 25 m
Botanicus 5a 25 m
Cirkus 6b 30 m
Geto u konobi P 15 m
Šparoga blues 7a+ 15 m
Kamena vratina 7b 15 m
Panzer division 7b+ 13 m
Feed your fear 8a 13 m
Hollywood 7b 27 m
Snejkuljčica 8b 35 m
Hit poletja 7b 37 m
C – Amazona
Sjedalica P 8 m
Pritisak 7c 7 m
No sun no fun 7b+ 7 m
Lopovska 7c+ 30 m
Tandem 7a+ 26 m
Ribida 5b 17 m
Tobogan 6a 20 m
D – The doors
Glavić 5a 25 m
Žili mi ruka 6b 14 m
Bišprcavrit 5c 12 m
Čistać kamina 5c 25 m
Way of saxony 6a+ 27 m
Tusta 6b 28 m
Zmajeva linija 6a 30 m