Vela Draga

Vela Draga is foremost a breathtaking natural monument of geomorphology and geology, a part of Učka NP and the location of a walking-learning trail, which will take you into the past of this splendid natural phenomenon, teaching you about animals and plants and long traditions of mountaineering and sport climbing as well. The rock formations are actually better for admiring than for climbing. This is a special historical center of climbing, thanks to Italian Emillio Comici from Trieste, who in 1931 with his partner Stauderi scaled northern side of the Big tower. In 1986 began a more modern equipping of the crag, which continues to this day, although in climbing sense it is not really too special – you should come here for the environment and peace, without big ambitions.

ACCESS
Get going on the motorway from the direction of Buzet towards Učka tunnel. Right before the tunnel use the exit for Labin and Vela Učka. Drive behind the gas station, right and downwards. Cough up some money for the toll and turn left for Labin. Soon you will spot a big parking on your left with some benches. From here a learning trail leads through the woods to the edge of the walls. If you‘re a bit nosy, you will find the way down already at sector Fliper, otherwise there are more trails on the scree slopes, that lead you in the middle of limestone towers. They are then connected with a network of trails and with a bit of orientation skills you should handle yourself quickly.


View Larger Map

PARKING GPS
N 45°31’99.24”, E 14°16’97.62”

WEATHER
Most constant conditions are in autumn and spring. Even though climbing in the rain is not possible, the wall dries quickly. In the winter you will need a nice day, while in the summer some routes are always in the shade or on the northern side of the walls.

QUALITY
The rock is sometimes good, but may, especially at beginnings, crumble a bit. You need a little experience to judge its quality, but as mentioned, you should take the relaxed, patient approach.

GEAR
Most routes (except Nad tunelom and multipitches) are fairly short. Basic gear is more than enough. The equipment varies – from good to bad, especially in small, scattered sectors and on multipitches. Climbing here is more old school and romantic. Take your time and embrace some deficiencies.

CLIMBING
Grey limestone is mostly slabby and vertical, with an occasional roof, crack or corner. Holds are quite sharp, from pockets, to big edges and small crimps. Mostly you should rely on good footwork. If anything, the harder routes are more technical and the longer ones will test your finger endurance. *

NOTES
You are located in the national park, so act accordingly: take your trash, don‘t destroy anything and don‘t make too much noise! Climb only in the described, equipped routes. The climbing of narrow tower, „Sviječa“, in the middle of the crag, is explicitly forbidden. Sectors are comfy enough and connected with a network of paths on the scree slopes. You can study some informative panels in between.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia

+385 91 169 62 67, [email protected]https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores/

Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.

Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia

[email protected]

In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Nad tunelom (Above the tunnel)
Wave of the future 7b+ 20 m
Kameleon 6c 20 m
ZOO 6b 25 m
Nonićev 6c 15 m
Fant 6a+ 35 m
Sunčana luka 6a 30 m
Petrin 6a+ 30 m
B – Grga
Moje zlo 6a 10 m
Grga 6b 12 m
Cvrčak 7a 10 m
C – Okno (The window)
Fa 6a 10 m
Fu 6c+ 10 m
Nad oknom 6a 10 m
D – Furija
Apogej 5a 12 m
Katja 6b 12 m
Luna 6a+ 12 m
Furija 6a+ 12 m
Hydra 6a 11 m
E – Rukavica
Torpedo 6b 25 m
Forma 7a 25 m
Pukotina 5c 25 m
Desni rub 6b 25 m
Huncut 6c 10 m
F – Gorgona
Zimbabve 6b+ 13 m
Fingerplay 6c+ 13 m
Black coffee 6a 13 m
Bijelo pranje 5a 13 m
Cracker 6a 11 m
Motika direct 5a 11 m
Motika 5a 11 m
Fu – fu 5c 11 m
Vježbenik 7b 11 m
Gorgona 6c+ 11 m
¸T.D. 6c+ 11 m
Ružica 6a+ 12 m
Žuta ruža 5c 12 m
Bršljanov žlijeb 5b 14 m
Ljubica 6b 15 m
I am from Austria 5c 15 m
G – Fliper
Bršljanov rub 4a 13 m
Onaniko 5c 12 m
Stojan 5b 11 m
Fliper 6a+ 10 m
Pinčica 4b 10 m
H – Castello (The castle)
Simona 6c+ 12 m
Črviček 6c 12 m
Tony 5c 20 m
Napoleon 7b+ 15 m
Utopljena ptica 6b+ 20 m
I – Krokodil
Plastic sausage 6a+ 12 m
Amonijak 6c 11 m
Dinamit 6c+ 11 m
Krokodil 6a+ 11 m
Eddie 6a 15 m
J – Veliki toranj
Comici bird 6a 40 m
Crna mačka 7a+ 20 m
Californication 6c+ 20 m
Tutti frutti 6a+ 20 m
Odiseja 6a+ 15 m
Feniks 6c 17 m
K – Ispod tornja
P
P
Smbelox 6b 20 m
Fantazija 7a+ 22 m
Milanov smjer 7a+, 7a, 5c 90 m