Driving towards the upper edge of Ćićarija we quickly see an inviting cave, which offers a couple of routes for advanced climbers and a handful of easier ones on the edges and in the new sector. Still, the potential of Nugla is greater than what‘s currently on offer. For one day everyone can find something for himself and the tranquility is an extra bonus here. In other words – grab the drilling machine and make the crag more appealing.
Even though you can get to Ćićarija edge from the other side through Slum, it is better to drive to Roč, go through it, past the Cimos factory, to Gornja Nugla. Continue uphill to the edge of Ćićarija. After a small chapel there is a sharp turn right. This is one of the rare approaches, where you car will suffer a bit – the dirt road can be in poor condition. When you see a small house, park, or continue to the right across the meadow. Park on the edge. From this parking two separate routes lead on, one goes left through the woods to the new sector, the other to the right and down the slope to the cave.
N 45°25’8.01”, E 14°1’24.85”
Nugla is a bit higher than the other crags here, so it can be colder (even snowy). Winter can be cold, as there is a lot of shade. You can climb in the afternoon in summer. Rain doesn‘t matter in the cave.
In the cave your biceps will work in short cruxy boulders. Out of the cave the routes are more technical, while the new sector again requires some strength in shorter routes. Only few routes are longer and even those are not really extreme. So a short rope and a handful of quickdraws is enough. The rock is solid, but still, climb carefully. The routes are nicely bolted and the base is big and comfy. Children can play here all day, they just have to be careful at the approach.
Prehistoric caveman remains were found in this cave. Homo sapiens and neanderthals competed in sending the first 6a in Croatia.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.
Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia
In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Nugla|
|Mala prodavaonica užasa||6b+||10 m|
|Nema života bez buže||6c+||25 m|
|To je taj rad||7a||25 m|
|B – Nova Nugla|
|Violent Pornography||7b||10 m|
|Rakija je naša medežija||6c+||10 m|
|Mali veliki čovjek||6c||10 m|