Driving towards the upper edge of Ćićarija we quickly see an inviting cave, which offers a couple of routes for advanced climbers and a handful of easier ones on the edges and in the new sector. Still, the potential of Nugla is greater than what‘s currently on offer. For one day everyone can find something for himself and the tranquility is an extra bonus here. In other words – grab the drilling machine and make the crag more appealing.
Even though you can get to Ćićarija edge from the other side through Slum, it is better to drive to Roč, go through it, past the Cimos factory, to Gornja Nugla. Continue uphill to the edge of Ćićarija. After a small chapel there is a sharp turn right. This is one of the rare approaches, where you car will suffer a bit – the dirt road can be in poor condition. When you see a small house, park, or continue to the right across the meadow. Park on the edge. From this parking two separate routes lead on, one goes left through the woods to the new sector, the other to the right and down the slope to the cave.
N 45°42’30.94”, E 14°02’09.82”
Nugla is a bit higher than the other crags here, so it can be colder (even snowy). Winter can be cold, as there is a lot of shade. You can climb in the afternoon in summer. Rain doesn‘t matter in the cave.
In the cave your biceps will work in short cruxy boulders. Out of the cave the routes are more technical, while the new sector again requires some strength in shorter routes. Only few routes are longer and even those are not really extreme. So a short rope and a handful of quickdraws is enough. The rock is solid, but still, climb carefully. The routes are nicely bolted and the base is big and comfy. Children can play here all day, they just have to be careful at the approach.
Prehistoric caveman remains were found in this cave. Homo sapiens and neanderthals competed in sending the first 6a in Croatia.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Roža, Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 (0) 91 540 8323, [email protected]; https://web.facebook.com/apartments.roza/
Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 91 169 62 67
[email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj and close to Krkuž, Raspadalica, RocknRoč, Sunset rock, HC, Buzetski kanjon,… Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2.
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Nugla|
|Nihilist – Pesimist||7c+||20 m|
|Mala prodavaonica užasa||6b+||10 m|
|Pesimist extension = Bečan extension||P||28 m|
|Nema života bez buže||6c+||25 m|
|To je taj rad||7a||25 m|
|B – Nova Nugla|
|Violent Pornography||7b||10 m|
|Butterfly effect||7a+||10 m|
|Rakija je naša medežija||6c+||10 m|
|Mali veliki čovjek||6c||10 m|