When you first come to Pandora, your jaw will drop as you gaze at one of the most brutal overhangs in this part of the world, which is dotted with many holds. The airy base under the wall seems to float in the air and when the waterfall falls through the hole in the wall and sprays the lush vegetation underneath, you will feel as if you were in the Avatar movie – hence the nickname for the crag. Of course, everyone climbing under 8a will only be able to nibble at the crag a bit on the sides, as you need to pump yourself up for the true routes.
Drive through Buzet towards Rijeka. When you see the Plodine supermarket, turn left immediately and go past the shop (unless you have to buy something or grab a coffee).Take the first right turn after the market and drive for some time on the road in the forest. Eventually you will arrive to a village – for option 1 park unobtrusively on the side of the road after the first big bend. Then go past the house to the forest and be mindful for a turn left uphill towards the wall. If you reach the riverbed you‘ve gone too far. For option 2 drive on up the hill and after a few bends take the turn right. The dirt road is a bit inconvenient and ends on a large plateau. From here follow the usually dry riverbed to the edge and then to the right along the edge, until you reach a via ferrata down. To get to the right side it‘s best to cross under the wall on another (scary) ferrata. Go slowly and carefully!
N 45°24’54.15”, E 13°59’53.07”
Pandora is essentially a winter crag, as the shape of the wall quickly adds a couple of degrees, while most routes will warm up your body quite a lot. The rain doesn‘t matter here, but when the crag gets wet, it takes a while to dry. In the summer more radical climbers climb at night – supposedly it‘s top notch.
The rock is surprisingly good, also because there are not as many tufas as you may think at first. The routes are new and perfectly equipped. Don‘t bring hyperactive kids to Pandora – the fall from the small plateau under the crag can be very long. Usually there aren‘t many climbers here, but the base is small so it gets crowded fast.
Take a long rope and enough quickdraws and hope that you won‘t need them (since many are pre-placed), because it‘s hell to un-clip them.
The less interesting side walls offer technical routes. The main part has endurance challenge with individual cruxes. This is definitely a crag for better climbers, especially those who love tufa and acrobatic climbing.
Don‘t disturb villagers with your behaviour and parking. Be careful under the wall. In the heat snakes may decorate the surroundings.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.
Agroturizam Cerovac, Roč 58, 52425 Roč, Croatia
In the center of the picturesque medieval village Roč, under the rocks of Kompanj lies Agroturizam Cerovac. It has a big camping and 3 apartments for 18 person. Camping costs 10€ and apartment 15€ per person. They offer as well on demand prepared breakfast for 4€ and dinner for 8€ per person. A really beautiful venue, only 25 kilometers away from the sea and just couple of minutes from some of the best crags in Istria. Please, make a reservation!
ROUTES (from left to right):
|A – Left part|
|Riba na oko||6a||10 m|
|Bitch Bug||6b||15 m|
|Brave little snake||6b+||15 m|
|Roč fieber||7b||15 m|
|Chin Check||7b+||16 m|
|Marmots at work||8a||18 m|
|Mule trail traverse||8b+||35 m|
|Weed and speed||8b+||20 m|
|Es ist vollbracht||8b+||20 m|
|Snoop Dogg direct||8a+||20 m|
|Snoop Boggi Dogg||7c+||20 m|
|90 days||8b||20 m|
|Žopa que te cagas||8a+||25 m|
|Toruk Makto||8b||23 m|
|Toruk Makto direkt||8a+||20 m|
|B – Right part|
|Hello big bird||P||30 m|
|Nina Voljo||8a||25 m|
|Lou Lou the golden boy||7b+||17 m|
|Show me your genitals||7c||18 m|
|Little green bug||8a+||22 m|
|Liliput (left variant)||6a+||13 m|