Pandora

When you first come to Pandora, your jaw will drop as you gaze at one of the most brutal overhangs in this part of the world, which is dotted with many holds. The airy base under the wall seems to float in the air and when the waterfall falls through the hole in the wall and sprays the lush vegetation underneath, you will feel as if you were in the Avatar movie – hence the nickname for the crag. Of course, everyone climbing under 8a will only be able to nibble at the crag a bit on the sides, as you need to pump yourself up for the true routes.

ACCESS
Drive through Buzet towards Rijeka. When you see the Plodine supermarket, turn left immediately and go past the shop (unless you have to buy something or grab a coffee).Take the first right turn after the market and drive for some time on the road in the forest. Eventually you will arrive to a village. Park unobtrusively on the side of the road after the first big bend. Then go past the house to the forest and be mindful for a turn left uphill towards the wall. If you reach the riverbed you‘ve gone too far.


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PARKING GPS
N 45°41’55.05”, E 13°99’10.86”

WEATHER
Pandora is essentially a winter crag, as the shape of the wall quickly adds a couple of degrees, while most routes will warm up your body quite a lot. The rain doesn‘t matter here, but when the crag gets wet, it takes a while to dry. In the summer more radical climbers climb at night – supposedly it‘s top notch.

QUALITY
The rock is surprisingly good, also because there are not as many tufas as you may think at first. The routes are new and perfectly equipped. Don‘t bring hyperactive kids to Pandora – the fall from the small plateau under the crag can be very long. Usually there aren‘t many climbers here, but the base is small so it gets crowded fast.

GEAR
Take a long rope and enough quickdraws and hope that you won‘t need them (since many are pre-placed), because it‘s hell to un-clip them.

ROUTES
The less interesting side walls offer technical routes. The main part has endurance challenge with individual cruxes. This is definitely a crag for better climbers, especially those who love tufa and acrobatic climbing.

NOTES
Don‘t disturb villagers with your behavior and parking. Be careful under the wall. In the heat snakes may decorate the surroundings.

SLEEP we had experienced…

Apartments Roža, Roč 16, 52425 Roč, Croatia

+385 (0) 91 540 8323, [email protected]https://web.facebook.com/apartments.roza/

Stay in Apartments Roža and enjoy in one of the best climbing areas in Istria. Roč is an excellent base for climbing in the crags near this charming village. Just a few minutes away by car to Kompanj, Čiritež, Vela draga, Buzetski kanjon or Kamena vrata. We offer two comfortable fully equipped apartments for max. 7 people. Air conditioning, fireplace, unique wine cellar or open terrace makes it comfortable in any season. Welcome to Roč!
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia

+385 91 169 62 67
[email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores

Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj and close to Krkuž, Raspadalica, RocknRoč, Sunset rock, HC, Buzetski kanjon,… Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2.

ROUTES (from left to right):

A – Left part
Riba na oko 6a 10 m
Bitch Bug 6b 15 m
Brave little snake 6b+ 15 m
Benjamin 6c 15 m
Roč fieber 7b 15 m
Iris 7b+ 16 m
Chin Check 7b+ 16 m
Marmots at work 8a 18 m
Neytiri 8a 20 m
Mule trail traverse (start in Neytiri, finish in Avatar) 8b+ 35 m
Weed and speed 8b+ 20 m
Es ist vollbracht 8b+ 20 m
Snoop Dogg direct 8a+ 20 m
Snoop Boggi Dogg 7c+ 20 m
90 days 8b 20 m
90 days direct ? 20 m
Scrat 8b+ 20 m
Avatar 8b 20 m
Blob 8c 22 m
P ? 22 m
P ? 22 m
Žopa que te cagas 8a+ 25 m
Toruk Makto 8b 23 m
Toruk Makto direct 8a+ 20 m
B – Right part
Hello big bird P 24 m
Escape 8a/a+ 24 m
Nina Voljo 8a 22 m
Lou Lou the golden boy 7b+ 17 m
Show me your genitals 7c 18 m
Little green bug 8a+ 22 m
Eywa 7b 15 m
Patapon 7a+ 13 m
Wildschwein 6c 12 m
Liliput (left variant) 6a+ 13 m
Liliput 6b+ 13 m
Hunter 6b 13 m