Raspadalica
Ah, Raspadalica… Basically it is a crag under the whole edge of Ćićarija, which is worth visiting for the view of Buzet and its surroundings alone. There are countless potential walls with good rock, but sadly, with the exception of sector A, even the current approaches are not in order – if you‘re unlucky you will get lost in thorns, rocks and bushes. But with some work the potential here can be measured in hundreds of routes. .. when the attitude to creating sectors modernizes a bit. For now Raspadalica provides only a nice trip for climbers seeking easy routes.
ACCESS
It is best to drive to camp Raspadalica (either from Gornj Nugla or around via Počekaji) and approach the crags from the top. The path winds along the edge of Ćićarija and paths down are sometimes hard to find. Access sector A by a steep, but nice path at a clearing between a group of trees and pines. To the B sector leads a path that is a bit more difficult, right after the pines, where the edge of the cliff is less rocky and more overgrown. For sectors C and D descend on the steep hill between both walls. The approach to the C sectora can be especially difficult. There is an nice path for trekkers from the train station to the edge. It is not advisable to traverse the hill under the sectors.
PARKING GPS
N 45°25’27.40”, E 13°59’52.13”
WEATHER
The crag is in the sun, which is good in the winter, when also the vegetation is least dense – in summer we can only wish you luck – the access would destroy even Bear Grylls – and if you survive this, you will die of a heart attack on the wall.
QUALITY
The rock, considering the name („Crumbledore“), is not so bad, but it is at times loose. The gear is variable: the anchors and bolts can be great and new or shitty and old. The base of the crag is semi-comfortable, but not advisable for children.
GEAR
Most routes (except sector D) rarely exceed 20 meters, and the bolts can often be far apart. Also bring a machete, just in case.
ROUTES
For a relaxing day in easy routes visit sector A. The routes are short, but nice, vertical and with good holds. In other sectors the climbing style can vary, but we leave it to more adventurous climbers.
NOTES
Walk carefully. In hot months the rocks are often occupied by horned vipers. Bring a stick and swing it before you as you walk. The snake will retreat on its own. On a nice day you will share the edge of the cliff with paragliders and hangliders.
SLEEP we had experienced…
Apartments Dolores, Roč 57, 52425 Roč, Croatia
+385 91 169 62 67, [email protected]; https://www.facebook.com/apartmentsdolores/
Peacefully set in historic little village of Roč, under the famous climbing area Kompanj, Apartments Dolores enjoy a green surrounding and offer fully equipped modern apartments with kitchen and terrace, as well as free WIFI and private parking. You can choose between a big apartment for 4-5 persons or a small one for 2. They are willing to pick you up on the nearest airports and drive you to the crags if desired.
ROUTES (from left to right):
| Sector A | |||
| Bela pista | 4c | 7 m | |
| Čripnja | 5b | 8 m | |
| Aut put | 6a | 7 m | |
| Ortikarija | 5c | 20 m | |
| Presjednik Joža | 5a | 10 m | |
| Čimuki | 5b | 18 m | |
| Jutarnja rosa | 5b | 15 m | |
| Medovača | 6a | 15 m | |
| Homus Balcanicus | 6c | 16 m | |
| Makinja | 6a+ | 15 m | |
| Prhut | 6b | 16 m | |
| Ribež | 5c | 16 m | |
| Sastavljavica | 5c | 10 m | |
| Raspadalica direkt | 6a+ | 20 m | |
| Drugi dan | 6a | 10 m | |
| Ilegalac | 6b | 10 m | |
| Bacci | 6a+ | 10 m | |
| Caro | 5c | 11 m | |
| Io | 5b+ | 12 m | |
| Prvi | 5b | 12 m | |
| Sector B | |||
| Frontera | 6a | 12 m | |
| Megane | 6a | 12 m | |
| Rijeka prvak 98/99 | 6a+ | 15 m | |
| Jump | 7a | 15 m | |
| Sector C | |||
| Sedam vrhova | 7b+ | 21 m | |
| Izbavitelj | 6b+ | 20 m | |
| Stella rossa | 6c+ | 20 m | |
| Grozni | 6b | 20 m | |
| Kontrolirani nadgledani slobodni | 6c | 20 m | |
| Bezimena | 7b | 20 m | |
| Sector D – Zmaj | |||
| United | 6b+ | 40 m | |
| Zmaj | 6c | 32 m | |
| Paraglider | 6c | 35 m | |
| Padobranac | 6a+ | 35 m | |
| Sector E – Cave | |||
| Leonidio news | 8a+ | 20 m | |
